BMW E46 Maintenance & Tune Up: What To Do After You Buy An E46

hey guys I'm the 50's kid this video is geared towards the brand-new e46 owner or a future e46 owner if you don't really know much about the e46 chassis in this video i'm gonna teach you all about all the jobs you need to do and parts you need to replace when you buy an e46 to guarantee that it will be a reliable and dependable car for years to come so let's get started so first let's talk about oil whether you have to change it right away if you pull out the dipstick and get a little bit of it on your glove and it looks really dark and black you definitely need to change it right away if not you still have a little ways to go but you're gonna need to change your oil eventually so what should you use you should use full synthetic oil not synthetic blend not conventional the reason for that is because the recommended service interval on on a BMW car is actually 15 thousand miles which is a really long time and I do not recommend you actually go that long between changing your oil you want to change it twice as often so you want to change it every 7500 miles the reason for this is because even synthetic oils will begin to break down at around 10,000 miles only the BMW approved long life oils can actually make it to 15,000 and even then I think that's pushing it I've taken apart a lot of efore T sixes in the junkyards I've taken a lot of valve covers off and some cars are have dark red baked-on varnish on the valve train components and some of them have really nice light golden oil deposits on them if you want the light that you know if you want to treat your engine right you have to change your oil way more often than 15,000 miles so change it every 7500 miles use full synthetic you want to use 5w30 oil that's a good generic oil that I can recommend to everybody if you're in a really hot climate like let's say Dubai or something you want to go with a 5w 40 or 5w 50 if they make that over there if you're in a freezing climate you want to look for a 0w 40 it really doesn't matter which brand you choose as long as it's full synthetic if you want to know which particular brand I use I use this one it's Kendall GT one max you can get this on Amazon I'll throw some links in the scription I kind of like this one because when I first started using it it really quieted down my my nosey valvetrain you know lifter tick is kind of a common problem on these particular engines so uh that's what I found when I used it and somebody else on instagram told me they had the exact same results it's not guaranteed I don't know if you're gonna have those results if you use this but this is what I've been using now when it comes to transmission fluid you definitely want to change it BMW says that the transmission fluid is lifetime fill but that is not true and you should not follow that you want to change your transmission fluid at least every 50,000 miles along with the filter now most of you are gonna have an automatic transmission with an e46 and there are basically two different automatic transmissions there's one made by GM and one made by ZF when it comes to the GM one you can just basically use any dexron three compatible transmission fluid with that when it comes to the ZF transmission you want to use this is what I use I use castor all trans max import multi vehicle because it meets the BMW LT seven one one four one specification that's what you want to look for on the back of the bottle of whatever transmission fluid you decide to go with now how do you tell if you have a GM or a ZF transmission well this is what the ZF transmission pan looks like Jack the car up get underneath and take a look if you see if your transmission pan looks like this with this green label over here that's the ZF otherwise you've got a GM now if you have a manual transmission you'll want to use MTF to fluid and this is the OEM brand pentacene right here this is actually discontinued now but there is an alternative MTF to fluid that you can buy on Amazon I will throw a link to it down in the description the last fluid you'll want to change is the differential oil I have a video on that it's really easy the fluid you want to use is any synthetic 75 W 90 gear oil the very first thing you will want to change on your e46 is the expansion tank it sits right there the reason you want to change it is because they will crack this will happen on every single e 46 it is pattern failure every one of these expansion tanks will crack right around maybe the ninety thousand mile mark you definitely want to change it by then I would change these every seventy-five thousand miles when this cracks you will immediately overheat your engine and when you do that the engine the cylinder head will lift it'll pull out the the head bolt the the head bolts will pull out the threads from the block and your head gasket will blow you could potentially get cracks in your cylinder head that happened to me where coolant will then leaked out into into the exhaust ports it's just a bad day and you don't want that to happen to you and you especially don't want any 46 that that has happened to so you want to hopefully hopefully this didn't happen to your 46 already and if you are maybe let's say you're the original owner if you bought a really low mileage be 46 change this right away especially if you don't know whether it's been changed yet or not because you want to avoid having this problem when you go ahead and change this you'll also want to change the upper coolant hose and the lower coolant hose as well it's not that there's anything particularly wrong with the coolant hoses you know they don't they don't fail they're not a pattern failure let's say but it's gonna be really difficult to get them off of where they snap on to and they actually have little o-ring z' inside of them that help seal those o-rings are gonna be really crusted on it'll be difficult to get them off and the thing is if you go to reuse them with those old oring z' they might not seal as perfectly as they as they says they were before so it I definitely don't recommend reusing them especially if they're extremely high mileage so you just want to go ahead and plan for replacing your upper radiator hose and your lower radiator hose there's also a little coolant temperature sensor sitting in the lower radiator hose and you're gonna need to change the o-ring on that you don't have to change the sensor but you have to change the o-ring when you switch over to when you switch it over to the new coolant hose because the coolant hose does not come with that sensor pre-installed so I will give you the part number for the o-ring in the description of this video the neck parts you want to change while you're while you're working on the cooling system and you're changing the upper and lower radiator hose or you want to change the thermostat housing and you want to change the water pump right here the thermostat housing will crack it's plastic eventually they do crack and leak so you want to change that before it happens with the water pump there they were actually made with with plastic impellers and eventually those plastic impellers will shatter and kind of send pieces all throughout your cooling system so you just want to replace it before that happens when it comes to BMW coolant you want to either go with the actual BMW brand blue coolant or this particular euro formulated blue coolant that's that's for BMWs they're both blue coolants you want to go with one of those the last cooling system related part you might want to change is the radiator it's not a pattern failure they last just as long as any other car radiator but if you're thinking about preventative maintenance you might want to replace it at around the 150,000 mile mark just to make sure you don't have a catastrophic failure while you're in here changing the water pump take a look at the condition of your belt and if it's all cracked in between the ribs or if it's dry rotted you definitely want to change it you'll you'll also want to change the air conditioning belts as well belts should typically be changed every 100,000 miles another fluid it might be good to replace would be your ATF fluid you want to take a look if it's all murky then you definitely want to change it new ATF fluid should look red and clear like this and to change that it's not too difficult the power steering pump is down here this is the power steering pump right here if you jack the car up and take off the lower splash shield you'll be able to see where the main hose feeds into the power steering pump all you have to do is disconnect the hose and that will drain out all of the fluid and then you just go ahead and put the hose back on and replace that replace the clamp with just a typical worm clamp I have a video on how to change the power steering pump where you will see the procedure in there of course you want to remove your air filter and your cabin air filter take a look at them if they're really dirty go ahead and replace them so obviously I've begun to remove different components I'm doing this so that you can get a better idea of what every thing looks like as we go forward if you want to know how to do this check out my common repair steps video so one part you want to take a look at is your dis evolve that's actually what this is actually what it looks like and all it does is it changes the length of the intake runners to kind of give you more power and if it goes bad like this one has it'll just kind of flap all in the breeze like this and this little pin on the end actually tends to come out and you want to be real careful when removing this because if this pin falls out and falls down in the intake that's really bad so when you're removing this kind of tilt it tilt it up like that and pull it out real slowly gingerly and you can buy a rebuild kit for these many places you can just buy a generic one from eBay or you can buy one from German auto solutions I'll throw links down in the description you'll notice that this Oh ring right here it's actually kind of a molded in one and it's actually really flattened when it was brand new ISM it was much thicker but it just flattens out over time you're gonna want to scrape this old Oh ring out of this channel and replace it with an o-ring from your rebuild kit if you don't do that if your o-rings in this shape it's gonna cause vacuum leaks and that's gonna be a problem another really common source for vacuum leaks is going to be from the lower intake boot right here it's actually gonna be from this little little section right here right in between right in here it likes to tear out from fatigue because it's you know just bent in that in that fit in that way for all this time so if that tears out that's gonna cause a vacuum leak so you definitely want to replace your lower intake boot you might as well go ahead and replace the upper intake boot as well just so you have brand new rubber these rubber it deteriorates over time so this is what a rebuilt dis evolve looks like this is the German auto solutions kit actually comes with an aluminum flapper and that's what a disavowal is supposed to if you want to supposed to look like and sound like if you want to test it hold your finger over this lower port right here or you know turn the valve hold your finger over the lower port and let it go if the valve springs halfway open and then opens up when you let go you know your valves good and so the German auto solutions kit has a long bolt that goes in from this way so there's no pin to actually fall out on this end and there's that new o-ring that I was talking about you can see how much thicker that one is the next thing we need to talk about is the CCD system CCD stands for crankcase cyclone ventilation system it's BMWs term for their PCV system and a PCV system is on every engine it means positive crankcase ventilation and what it does is it takes the blow by that comes out of the crankcase usually from out from the valve cover which is right here and on a normal car it will just recycle that directly into the intake on this system it actually has an oil separation system so the blow by gases actually come out of the valve cover right here and they enter into here they go into this little cyclone chamber the oil gets splattered up on the walls here the gases get sucked up through here and they exit out here into the intake manifold to get recycled the oil drips down here through a return hose that connects down to the bottom of the dipstick tube now the reason this is a problem is because that oil return line right here it likes to crack it gets heat aged the plastic you know gets old and brittle and it just breaks and that becomes a major major vacuum leak the other problem is there is a little rubber diaphragm in here and if you happen to live in a place that has freezing cold temperatures the water that's mixed in with the oil inside of this unit will actually freeze and expand and that ice will sort of puncture the rubber diaphragm in here and that will cause major problems it will cause a lot of oil to get sucked up into your intake and you'll you'll blow you know smoke out the back of your exhaust and you'll get really scared and pull over and it really sucks this is a pattern failure on these cars it has to be changed probably anywhere from 50,000 to 75,000 miles so it's definitely something that you're going to want to do if it's never been done I mean you can all it depend depending on the climate you can get away with well over probably 125,000 miles you know on these I bought my card around a hundred and sixty thousand miles and it had not been done but of course it had the the failure of the lower hose so if you have that lower hose failure what's gonna happen is when you go to start your car up when it's cold in the morning it's just gonna chug it's gonna run really really poorly it'll get a little bit better as the engine heats up but if you have that problem and if you get p0 171 and p0 one seven four codes the most likely candidate is gonna be your C CB system in that lower hose that's the most likely candidate for that problem I have other videos that go into detail on those particular codes so I'll be sure to link those in the description as well but changing the c cv it is a little bit of an undertaking you have to get it to this point you also then have to take out your oil dipstick tube you have to unbolt the this little electrical distribution box and unplug a couple of the connectors to kind of pull it back you have to remove the the throttle body down here along with the idle air control valve right up here and that'll give you enough room to actually get under here and change the oil separator the oil separator lives underneath the intake right right about here right in right between number two and number three and you'll be able to change it like that there are a lot of videos out there on how to change it with the intake manifold still in the car I have videos on how to change it by pulling the entire intake manifold out I recommend doing it that way to the first timer number one because it allows you to change all of the vacuum hoses which are also dry rotted at this point and number two I feel like it gives you a good amount of confidence if you can follow along with that job and if you can do that job you have just taken a step up on your capabilities as far as being able to work on your own car but it's up to you I'm certainly not going to judge you for whichever way you go about doing this the easier way is to just you know do it while leaving the intake manifold in there and I've been meaning to make a video on how to do that because it is a little it is quite a lot easier to do it that way that video will be coming up in the future speaking of vacuum hoses you are going to want to change all of them that you can see this is a 3/8 inch ID vacuum hose right here this lower hose you can see that there's a little bit of section of vacuum hose right here and it's a hard plastic line from their back people always ask me about this particular vacuum line especially when they're doing when they're removing their intake they kind of get lost in the you know in the whole mess of it and they they end up not knowing where this vacuum line connects to or where it goes to it actually runs down underneath the car and it runs into the fuel pressure regulator which is basically right underneath where the the driver's side feet would be on this side of the car and it doesn't really do anything it's not really a vacuum line the the fuel pressure regulator is not vacuum modulated it's only there just in case the fuel pressure regulator in case the diaphragm inside there bursts and gasoline leaks out it's there to route the gasoline back into the intake so that it gets recycled and doesn't get exposed to the atmosphere so don't worry too much about this line this is where it connects to if you have an M 54 engine that is if you have a 330 or a 325 or a 320 this is where the line connects to this little F connector right here if you have an older m 52 tu engine which is going to be your 323 s or your 328 this line is actually going to run up to the back of the the the fuel rail there's gonna be a little hard line that runs up to the front of the fuel rail and there's gonna be another line coming off of that that runs in between the intake manifold right here and it's gonna end up connecting to this little port on the oil separator and it does the exact same thing it just routes those gasoline fumes into the oil separator in case the the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm bursts now there are going to be some other vacuum hoses down underneath here that you can't see that you're basically probably going to need to pull off the intake manifold order to change that's why I recommend doing it some of them they all basically run into the back of the intake manifold right here there are too small ports and there's one big port the big port is probably is going to be capped off on an M 54 engine and it's going to have an evap line connected to it on an M 52 engine but those two little vacuum lines one of them runs up back behind the the engine and comes around the exhaust side let me show ya it's just like over here we've got sort of a little hard plastic line that runs around the back and at the at the end of that line is just a little section of vacuum hose that connects it into the intake manifold the one back there usually is okay the one that actually becomes really brittle is the one right in here right here is that little section of vacuum line and the minute you touch that it's gonna crack and break right off because this is a particularly hot area and it just dry rots right away that vacuum line is going into this little valve and this is this valve is part of the secondary air system this is the secondary air pump it pumps oxygen into the exhaust manifold right when you start the car when cold and it helps to heat up the the catalytic converter and heat up the oxygen sensors so that that little valve right there is just vacuum actuated so if this thing cracks you're gonna get lean codes and you're gonna get secondary air codes those little sections of vacuum tubing are actually three point five millimeter internal diameter vacuum hoses and you can actually get some silicone based ones off of Amazon I'll throw the link in the description and these will last a whole lot longer than just your regular rubber vacuum hoses so these are the these are the best ones to get now let's talk about oil leaks every one of these engines is going to have an oil leak it is just a BMW thing and the reason for that well there are three reasons for it and this is in order of easiest to do most and most common two least common and hardest to do so the easiest to do the most common the one the powdered failure on every engine is going to be your oil filter housing gasket this is the oil filter and it's basically in this housing and actually the housing is all up and down the whole part of the whole side of the engine and it connects to the side of the engine and bolts on with six bolts and there's just a little three dollar rubber o-ring kind of gasket that deteriorates and goes bad and it leaks oil all over everywhere and you know it's that if your oil leak is coming from the front you know this side of the engine towards the front if you just get underneath the engine and take a look and if you see oil residue on basically this side of the engine in the front you know it's the oil filter housing gasket and trust me every single one of these needs to be changed number two is gonna be your valve cover gasket the valve cover gasket is right in here the hole you know it runs along the outside perimeter of the valve cover there's also one in the center every one of those is gonna need to be changed they like to dry rod they're gonna you know BMW chose a really bad rubber for it and it just it basically will last about a hundred thousand miles and it needs to be changed it's also gonna cause some vacuum leaks if you don't change it the way you know if your valve cover gasket is leaking is it will leak down from this area generally because the whole engine is tilted this way and it'll leak out all over your exhaust shields right here see these shiny metal parts they won't look shiny it won't look like shiny aluminum on yours if it's if your valve cover gaskets leaking you'll also see evidence where oil dripped onto my exhaust manifold you know in the past and you will see you can see this bolt right down here that's the that's the engine mount bolt that area will be covered in oil there would be a little pool of oil right there that actually leaks down and it causes the engine mount on this side to deteriorate in the in it and it makes the rubber all gooey and it causes that engine mount to rip out so that's a big telltale sign that your valve cover gasket is leaking the third and final oil leak on this engine is going to be your oil pan gasket and that one is going to be somewhat difficult to change you're gonna need a special tool it's a big engine brace that kind of fits over and it sits here and here and it's gonna hold up the engine because we're actually going to need to drop the lower subframe down and order to change that gasket I have a video on it it's really not that big a deal and you know once you do the intake manifold you're gonna have the confidence to be able to do that it is not as common as the other two it will need to be done it is still common it will need to be done eventually I don't know exactly when it starts to fail definitely after a hundred thousand miles but maybe you can get 130 140 out of out of it before it actually starts to leak real bad another thing you want to change while you're on this side of the engine while you're doing the valve cover gasket is your spark plugs you're gonna have the coils out anyway go ahead and just pull your spark plugs out and take a look if they say BMW on them that's a surefire sign that they are the OEM plugs the original ones that this came with so you want to go ahead and change them in that case your plugs should be changed about every hundred thousand miles another thing you're going to want to do well you have the valve cover off is you're gonna want to rebuild your vanos the vanos is the is BMWs variable valve timing system and all it does is it advances and retards the cam based on different engine speeds and the there are little Pistons inside of them that have a ring seals and the o-rings go bad of course basically are you getting the theme here all the rubber on this engine goes bad because BMW chose like the worst rubber rather than the best rubber so you're gonna have to actually just you know take it apart and just change the o-rings and put it back together it's actually not that big a deal I have a video on doing that it's pretty easy but you're gonna want to do that while you have the valve cover off and your change in the gasket so the last thing I want to talk about that's oil related is the high oil consumption that an m54 engine is gonna have there are some misconceptions out there some people think that only the 3.0 engines have this problem that's wrong all of the m54 engines have it the 2.0 the 2.5 and the 3.0 they all have this problem because they all have the same upgraded low tension oil control ring one-piece oil control ring that tends to wear away and after about a hundred thousand miles it starts to cause high oil consumption on the order of one quart every 1,000 miles so the m-52 tu did not have the problem because it has traditional three-piece oil control rings so there are a couple ways you can fix this problem number one you can rebuild your engine and use the m-52 tu style oil rings which is what I did or you don't have to go that far you can choose to rip out the old CCV system and you can install an oil catch-can the reason that's going to fix the problem is because as part of the oil ketchikan system you're gonna run an aftermarket PCV valve which is going to add a little bit more vacuum into the crankcase that vacuum tends to suck the oil control ring to the piston wall and it cures the oil consumption problem I don't particularly like oil catch cans I just think there's some problems related to them and kind of cumbersome to install and all that stuff and it's just I don't know I'm not a fan of it if you are that's fine there are somewhat useful in really cold climates where you tend to have freezing temperatures so the other problem the other way to fix this problem is you can actually do what we call the o2 pilot mod which is where you leave your stock CCB system and you just run a vacuum line from the back of the intake manifold and you run it into this port on the oil separator and that will add the increased vacuum into the crankcase and solve the problem we call that the o2 pilot mod after the guy who came up with it and that is the mod that I recommend because it's just the easiest to do it takes five minutes to do and just you know easy so those are all the common pattern failures on the m-52 tu and m54 engines that came with these cars it's not that much right pretty easy you got this if there are a couple of other suspension related problems that you might encounter with an e46 just like all cars after about a hundred thousand miles the shocks and struts are gonna go bad you got struts up front and shocks in the back the way you test that is you push down on the car and if it's good this is what its gonna look like one bounce and then it stops so normally when shocks are bad you could actually push down and you'll see that the car kind of springs a little bit more what I'm finding though surprisingly is that they look the same this thethis test ends up being the same whether it's good or bad I'll tell you the shocks on this one definitely are bad you can just tell when you're driving around you can particularly tell when you hit bumps your head's gonna hit the roof rather than the whole car absorbing the impact properly but this one it's a little easier to push down on I can kind of get it going like that and it doesn't really fight me this is the thing just the things kind of wavy you kind of have to get it going because again the springs are a little stiffer on a BMW but that's one test that might be able to tell you if you have bad shocks I do have another test that involves disconnecting the the shock from the rear suspension components and I'll link that video down in the description that's a definitive way to tell if your shocks are bad and if the shocks are bad the struts the front and struts in the front are probably bad as well another component that goes bad are the front control arm bushings which are actually in the back of the front control arm and the way you can tell if they're bad is number one you can try pushing on the tire with your foot like right around here you can just try rocking the tire towards the back of the car if it looks like this it's fine these ones have actually been replaced but if the tire rolls back and forth quite a ways if there's a whole lot of movement like that you definitely know your front control arm bushings are bad also another way to know is when you're backing up if you're if you change from forward to reverse or when you hit the brake you'll feel the suspension shift and you'll hear the knocking so that's another way to tell the other way to check and see if your front control arm bushings are okay or not is to jack up your car put it on jack stands and get underneath it and take a look so this is the front of the car and that's the back right there you can see the control arm bushing this is the driver's side the left side of the car and all you have to do is just move the tire and if that bushing is gone this whole control arm is gonna pivot this way right and it'll pivot back and forth that's what you were doing when you were stepping on or you were trying to push on the tire as you're just literally moving this control arm articulating it about this ball joint it would move side to side you would clearly see that it's deteriorated but as you see I've recently replaced mine so they're good another thing you want to take a look at are your tie rods this is what connects your steering rack to your wheel carrier right here that's what allows the wheel to steer and basically the ball joints and these can go out over time yours are probably gonna be a little loose you see right now I cannot move mine at all but these get a look these loosen up over time and after about 70,000 miles they'll start to rotate back and forth like this about the ball joint which is not necessarily bad it's only bad if you go to move your wheel and you actually see play between the steering knuckle right here and the ball joint itself so the ball joints in here you'll start to see that move in and out if you go ahead and try to move the tire in and out this way so another commonly wearing component is the steering bushing which is going to be this bushing right here this little rubber disc as you can see that actually will get play in between the links on it and the way you test that is you just try to move your wheel back and forth while you're staring up at it and if there's play you're gonna see it you're gonna see it rocking like this back and forth that's easy to change I've got a DIY video on that by the way if you want to drain and replace your power steering fluid this is that hose that you need to disconnect it's gonna come with a factory clamp that you just pry off with a screwdriver and then you replace it with a worm style clamp as you see I have done well you have the car jacked up you want to go ahead and check the rear trailing arm bushings and this is the this is the driver side tire here so this is the left side tire that's the front of the car that's the back of the car so we're looking at the driver side one here the way you tell on this one is you just go ahead and get a pry bar up in here like that now if you see tension like that if it's springy like that you're good if the thing just kind of knocks to one side of this housing in here back and forth the the bushings gone and you're gonna need to replace it another problem you may or may not have is with the outside temperature sensor which is right here this is actually a little splash housing splash shield right here this thing it gets torn away it happened on a lot of e46 is I mean especially used ones you go over curbs you know you hit something this thing rips out it goes flying it rips out the the outside temperature sensor and that's actually going to cause problems with your air conditioning system so what you need to do is you need to find not only the sensor but the connector as well and sometimes some other harnesses can get ripped out in the process the way you know which wires are the correct ones is the wire colors they're gonna be purple with blue and black stripes I believe another problem with the air conditioning system is going to be with the final blower motor resistor it's called the final stage resistor it actually lives up underneath you can get at it from behind if you have to take out the the glove compartment here and the little the actual access panel down here well the plastic panel down there and it just lives up behind in there and and it does it's not bolted in or anything you just have to reach up and kind of pull it out you might have to move some things out of the way but it's it's a little difficult just because of the the area it's in but it's you know once you kind of realize where it is and what it is you can you can get it out and pop a new one in but you have to change that part all most of the OEM parts they go bad and there's a there's a new part design it's it's a weird-looking part it's got all these metal fingers sticking out of it and the old ones have fat metal fingers the new ones have skinnier metal fingers another common problem with every 46 is gonna be these a B and C pillars the trim on them the the fabric just comes off and you're just gonna need to actually pull the the housings off and just recover them with some fabric I have not done that DIY yet I've been putting it off for many years the previous owner actually recovered my C pillars as well as the a-pillars so I don't have to do those I just have to do the B pillars another common problem on these is the Sun roofs you see how this is actually hard to go back this last way the the Sun roofs actually come off there are these little clips that they that the the Sun roof panel fits into and they kind of they need to be lubricated they can also come off and then the thing will just kind of be flapping all over the place so I don't have any DIYs on that yet but those will be coming up of course another thing you're gonna need are window regulators it's pretty much guaranteed on this car and just bays almost every used car you know there's no used car where it's where the where it doesn't happen but almost every window regulator is gonna need to be replaced in this car at some point they probably last about 125,000 miles something like that so I think we're gonna have to end the video here I could go on and on but we're starting to get into sort of the non common problems and I really wanted to keep this to just problems that almost every e46 is gonna have so these are all the things that you're gonna need to do once you buy any 46 you never know a lot of these may have been done already you're just gonna have to check it out and see it's really not that difficult at the end of the day I've got videos on all this stuff everything will be linked down down in the description so check all that out if you enjoyed this video please give me a thumbs up it really helps me out subscribe if you want to see more I'm the 50s kid thanks a lot for watching

Channel: 50sKid

Views: 1,094,096

Keywords: BMW, E46, 3-Series, Maintenance, Tune Up, 100000 miles, 10 years, New E46 Owner, New BMW Owner, Common Problems, Pattern Failures

Id: lIKVe7DvZRI

Length: 34min 14sec (2054 seconds)

Published: Sun Dec 24 2017