- So a few months ago, I made this video where I compared a $150
blade to a $35 blade. And, oh my goodness, did
that trigger some people. It's almost a thousand
comments on that video. I'll link in the description below, and add that to the end of this video so you can go watch that comparison. Last time, the argument was 42 versus 60, thin versus full. One could be resharpened
multiple times. One couldn't. Ron and JD Depuy both wrote
full thesis statements on (wheezes) faults of my experiment. And Christopher was
disappointed in me because I made a video. So, sorry. And I had a delta contractor style saw, and some people said that it couldn't spend the
forester good enough. Well, now I've got a three
horsepower cabinet saw, but William come through and said, if you get your hands on a CMT 40 tooth, you may like it better in both. So, let's see if a $65 CMT blade compares to that forrest $150 blade. Be sure to check the
link in description below for both blades that I'm using today. If you want to check those out, do a little more research on yourself, or pick one up for yourself. (air whooshing) So, I'll
start with the plywoods. I have a piece of quarter inch plywood that has a maple veneer. It has an MDF core. Then I'll do the three-quarter
inch sanded birch plywood. So what I'll do is go up in
the janka scale of hardness. (air whooshing) Janka scale,
not jenga. Or jinga. Jinga. Next we'll go to the spruce. It's the softest of
the woods I had to cut. Just a piece of common spruce. I have a southern yellow
pine, tuba six right here. We're gonna cut that. Got some black walnut. Very common hardwood a lot of people use. And then for the hardwoods, I've got a piece of purpleheart, as well as a piece of chechen, which is a Brazilian rosewood. When we cut, these are
very dense, very hardwoods. Make sure and click that
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to it so you get notified of all the new content we've
got coming. (air whooshing). (saw running) (saw cutting wood) (saw running) (saw cutting wood) (saw running) (saw cutting wood) (saw running) (saw cutting wood) (saw running) (saw cutting wood) (saw cutting wood) (saw running) (saw cutting wood) (saw cutting wood) (saw running) (saw cutting wood) (saw cutting wood) (saw powering down) (saw running) (saw cutting wood) (saw running) (saw cutting wood) (saw running) (saw powering down) (saw running) (saw cutting wood) (saw running) (saw cutting wood) So the way I actually cut everything was I ripped everything with the CMT blade, then I changed to the forrest
and ripped everything. Same thing with a crosscut. Crosscut everything with the forrest, then change back over to the CMT. And the way I edited was so
that you could see the blades cutting each species back to back. That way, it kind of gives
you a better comparison of the two blades. Before I test the crosscutting, we've ripped all of these boards from quarter inch plywood
all the way up to chechen. In case you don't know, chechen is hard. So, as far as the feel of the
wood going through the blades, I couldn't tell any difference at all between the CMT and the forrest. They felt exactly the same on all species. They all went through
smooth. They all cut smooth. No issues, no bogging, no nothing. What I did was I wrote down on each piece which was the cut for
CMT as well as forrest. And this is the top side of everything, and we'll flip it over, and
we'll look at the edges also. So the first cut was a
quarter inch plywood on CMT. CMT side there is a tiny, tiny
bit of tear out right there. And then right there on
the beginning of the cut. On the CMT, it pretty
much tore out a little. Not terrible, but it did break the veneer and splinter it a little bit
all the way down the cut. On the three-quarter inch plywood, so we got CMT on this
side, forrest on this side, you can't tell the difference. They both cut the three-quarter
inch sanded plywood extremely clean. Both cuts
look really good, actually. As far as cleanliness of the cut, there's no burning or
anything on the forrest, or on the CMT. Piece of spruce. Forrest on the left, CMT on the right. There's nothing. I mean it, both of them
did extremely well. There's no tear out, no burning. Well, CMT got a little, little tear out right there.
It's just a little rough. Forrest did a little rough right there. So, I can call that a tie. For the pine, again forrest on the left, good, clean cut. No burning, no marring. CMT on the right. Same thing. It's just a good, clean cut. It's hard to see here
on the purple hardwood, CMT, and forrest on the left again. It's pretty good cut. Forrest made a good cut.
No tear out. Nothing. CMT had a tiny bit of burn
right there. I don't know, I have to look at the
footage and see if I stopped, or if I changed the feed rate, but it did burn just a tiny
bit right there in that cut. So, not only was left
with the little strip here on the walnut, but forrest on the left, CMT on the right. Good clean cut on the forrest. No tear out on the bottom, and on the CMT, we got the same thing.
Just a good, clean cut. For this chechen, that's
some pretty wood in it? Check that out. So the chechen and the
forrest is right here. No burning. No tear out.
Just a good, clean cut again. Then the chechen on the CMT.
Again, just a good clean cut. I'm gonna call really on
all the rip cuts here. It's a tie. I mean the only time there
was any real different was the CMT burned just a little
bit on this purpleheart. So, that's really the only issue. You got a little tiny burn right there. It can be easily sanded off. And then the forrest blade
splintered a little bit on the quarter inch plywood,
but did perfectly fine on the three-quarter inch plywood. Now, let's cross cut a
couple of these pieces and see if we see any difference in a cross cut versus a rip. And then will I give you my final result on which blade I think
wins this challenge. (saw cutting wood) (saw cutting wood) (saw cutting wood) (saw cutting wood) (saw cutting wood) (saw cutting wood) (saw cutting wood) (saw cutting wood) (saw cutting wood) (saw cutting wood) (saw cutting wood) (saw running) (saw running) (saw cutting wood) (saw running) (saw cutting wood) So the cross cut challenge
of the forrest versus the CMT yielded the same, like
they're the same blade. Like it's, you wouldn't be
able to tell the difference if I didn't have the name on there. Here's why I say that. This
is a forrest crosscut piece. You can't tell which side was
cut. Same thing on the CMT. The crosscut piece on the edge
or the end? You can't tell. So on the forrest three
quarter inch cross cut you can see a extremely minute
amount of tear out there. A CMT, you get something
very similar on the crosscut. And then the spruce, you
got the same thing, manner. I mean, I'm telling you there's, that's forrest, CMT cross cut. Got a little tear out there, but that was at the back
of the crosscut sled where there's a hole, because I've adapted that crosscut sled a couple of times. There's pine on forrest, pine on CMT. Crosscut forrest on the purpleheart. Again, the tear out, I think
that's due to the crosscut sled having too big of a gap on the fence. CMT was extremely similar. Walnut, zero tear out on the forrest. Extremely minor amount there
with the CMT on the tear out. And then of course the
Chechen, last but not least. Forrest cut clean. CMT cut clean. I can't justify $150 for a forrest blade when the CMT blade is neck and neck. So these are basically the same blade with a 40 tooth and a full
curve on a powerful saw. For my money, I'm going with CMT all day. I know that there's gonna be arguments that the forrest can be
resharpened multiple times. Well, so can the CMT.
Jonathan Katz-Moses uses CMT, and if he's good enough for him, they're good enough for me, for sure. But, he's got a sharpening video where he shows where the CMT
blades are being resharpened, so there's no argument there for me. I'm sticking with the CMTs. What do you think? Let me
know if this was a fair test, because last time there
were so many complaints that it wasn't fair. I want
to know if this was fair. You know what time it is? Power tip time. So the power tip for this challenge video is to buy the blade you can afford. I wouldn't buy the forrest II blade. I was given that as a gift a while back, and I seemed to have a tendency of doing reviews on things I get as gifts. Unless somebody can prove me wrong, I don't think that the
forrest blade is worth $150 when the CMT blades is equally as good. And I've made a lot of
cuts with CMT blades, and I'll use that forrest for a while on the delta. And I'm just not impressed. I'm not $150 impressed. If I was impressed, I'd be all in saying, yes, this is an awesome blade. And that's the thing.
If it brings you value, and you get value out
of the forrest blades, by all means, keep buying 'em. If you get value out of the
diablo blades, buy those. If you get value out of a CMT blade, buy whatever makes you happy. If you want to check out
the CMT blade for yourself, taytools.com has given us a
discount code for my viewers. You go to taytools.com, you
can use code 7-3-1-CMT-10. That'll save you 10%
off this awesome blade. There's a link in the description below if you want to go check
these out for yourself. Hey, if you like what we
doing, you want to support us, you can always visit the
store, 731woodworks.com/store. We've got woodwork and bill plans, and merchandise there
for you to check out. Also, if you want to be certain and know when we got
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go to 731woodworks.com. Right there on the page you'll see sign up for the newsletter. Click that, enter your email
address, simple as that. We send out regular emails letting you know when
we've got new content, new deals, new products, and what upcoming projects
we have in the future. Go check out the diablo
versus the forrest blade. Click that box right there
and go watch that video, and let me know on that
video what you think. Was this a fair test? Is the diablo so much
comparable to the forrest? So, if you click that box, you get that big 'ol virtual fist bump. Thank you so much for watching.
