Beginner Knife Making: I make a Knife with Basic tools Part 2

okay so we're back for round two of the build along if you're unfamiliar with what that is at this point um I'll include the details towards the end of the video but essentially it's a knife build along contest where you build this knife from a template that was made by Redbeard Ops and then you can enter a contest either either for the overall or for a novice category and potentially win prizes so we've gotten up to the heat treatment point and so now it's time to heat treat essentially the first thing I'll do is this was stock removal so it doesn't necessarily require a normalization cycle although it doesn't hurt to do it since you're heating the steel up a bit uh hot when you're cutting it with the angle grinder so I will do one normalization if you were to have forged the knife out I would probably do at least three normalization cycles and essentially what you're doing when you normalize the knife is you're heating the knife up to non-magnetic and letting it air cool that's going to allow the structure of the steel to even out and create a more even steel structure that will make for a better heat treatment now when you heat treat the knife it's essentially going to be something similar except I'm going to heat the knife up to non-magnetic and then I will quench it in oil in my case I'll be using Parks 50 oil and if you are a new maker what you could use is canola oil it's not as good but it does the job and it does do the job pretty well and if you're going to use canola oil you need to heat the canola oil to 120 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit I know this sounds counterintuitive but it will actually cool the steel faster than if you were to leave the oil cold or at room temperature one last thing when you go to do this please make sure that you have a fire extinguisher on hand that is current and still working I would also recommend having safety glasses and some type of fire resistant gloves at the very least okay it wouldn't be a bad thing to wear you know some like a respirator but at the very least make sure you have that fire extinguisher and some heat resistant gloves now I skipped over the normalization cycle we're going to go straight into the heat treatment but just understand it's heating it to non-magnetic evenly and then letting it air cool and that's all you're doing for the normalization cycle obviously it's a lot more technical than that but generally speaking that's the just of it okay so I'm gonna let the Ford start heating up get it all in place and then uh we're gonna start heating the knife until we get it to non-magnetic and we'll go ahead and quench that steel in the Parks 50 for at least 10 whole seconds I'm also going to eliminate most of the light from the room and the reason I'll do this is it will allow me to more truly see the color of the steel which will give me a better judgment of when it should be non-magnetic I would also recommend looking up a heating chart like a color chart if you look up steel heating charts you can see what color the steel should be when you heat it based off a heating chart also something to note here is that the camera plays tricks with the way the steel looks and the steel looks entirely too hot on this camera but it is much closer to the dull red that it's supposed to be I'm not sure why the camera picks it up making it look bright yellow but it's just not the case um so don't don't base it off what this camera makes it look like it should be a dull red when you go to quench the steel also after the quench I will clamp the knife between two pieces of angle iron and a vise and that will ensure that it stays straight through the coil so the next step is to make sure that the quench worked and the blade hardened and the way that you're going to check that is with a file this isn't like a Surefire way to make sure that the heat treatment is perfect because you can't really do that with a forge but you can make sure that the steel hardened by using a file and testing to see if it can cut into the steel foreign [Music] so that sings beautifully that's a great it hardened like I mean and and the one other thing to check is to make sure that it's edge to edge so I'm making sure this Edge down here all the way up to the very tip all sings and if you're newer what you can do is use a piece that's annealed um to to check the noise from so listen to this [Music] so you can hear that the file cuts that steel when I do this on this one it's doing absolutely nothing you can hear it sings a lot louder it's a much louder sing versus [Music] so this is anneal versus hardened so now we're going to clamp this blade to a piece of angle iron and we're going to temper it in the oven the oven will be set to 400 degrees and we will do two two hour Cycles what that's going to do is right now this blade is too hard so it's so hardened that potentially if I were to drop it on the concrete it could even break so we gotta take that and make it just a little bit softer so it's tougher and can have a little bit of Bend or you know strength to it where if it's uh you know a pressure is applied sideways it can actually do that little bit of bending rather than just snapping right away so we'll clamp this to angle iron and we'll put it in our oven 400 degrees two two hour cycles and as long as you harden the blade right and you're using a simple steel like 1084 or 01 you should come out with a pretty nice heat treatment okay so we have the blade clamped to some angle iron this is going to make sure that it stays straight through the temper and actually after the first temper I will take it off this angle iron and check to see if it's fully straight if there's still a bend in it it's possible that I need to maybe clamp it like with a little bit of a Bend to the opposite direction just applying a small amount of extra Force because sometimes if you clamp it flat and it has a little Bend in it it may not fully take it out if it's super mild like if it's just barely bent in which case you have to bend the blade just slightly to the other side and then temper it and that will end up straightening the blade back to Center okay so here we are post heat treatment I'm going to clean this up I think what I'm going to do is clean it up I'm going to hand sand it out the flats and the bevels to probably only to 240 maybe even just to 150 because I really don't want to spend that much time on it and then I am going to Stone wash it foreign so I basically sanded the blade out to 150 I'm going to go ahead and acid etch and stone wash it if you don't have the ability to do that basically you would just need to keep sanding it up until you get to you know a grit that you feel happy with 220 400 something along those lines um and then you know you could always put a patina on it or something like that later now I'll coat the steel in WD-40 all of the rocks in the Shaker are also coated in WD-40 and then I'll put it in here and Shake It Up and that'll give it the stonewash finish that I'm looking for okay so here we are I ended up going ahead and acid etching and stone washing the whole thing I could not get it to look um you know the way that I wanted without doing this so the whole thing is going to be acid etch and stone washed and then from here what we're going to do is I have some scales that I'm going to use you know you can order your scales this is just G10 with G10 liners glued onto it so it's just like some blue G10 with some G10 liners glued to the bottom but you could just order um some pieces you could order scales individually cut out especially if you don't have any power tools to cut them out you could order them like this they may not have inlays you actually could order them like customly with inlays but they'll be more expensive um you could also order like a piece of stabilized wood or whatever but you can order them already cut to scale size okay so what we're going to do is we're going to take these we're going to put the insides together and clamp these together the knife will get clamped on top and we will drill our one two pinholes straight through these and then once the pinholes are drilled we will shape the top edge of the scale so I'm going to cut the top edge of the scales at an angle and I'll sand it or file it at an angle to where it's ready to go once I'm once it's glued on here because it's hard to shape this once it's glued on the knife and then so once that that part is done we'll glue them on the scales on and then we'll come back later and we'll remove the extra material most likely a lot of the material removal will be with a coping saw that's what I'm thinking for hand tools foreign you know just make sure that the drill bit is as up and you know up and down straight as you can get it in every direction [Music] [Music] [Music] now I'm going to cut the pins to length using an angle grinder I'm going to cut them a bit longer than I need them to be because the worst thing you could do obviously is cut them too short so I'll cut them to length and then we will prepare for the glue up if the pins are a little too thick to fit through your handle material what you can do is Chuck it up in the drill and then use a piece of sandpaper and this way I can grind the ends a little thinner and even thin the entire stock out if I need to just a little bit so that it can fit through the scales and the knife more easily now I marked out where I want the top of the scales to end and I will use the coping saw to make that cut now I use a file to create a bevel on this top Edge like I was talking about once I get that where I want it I will use sandpaper and I'll sand that top Edge to where it's finished so that we don't have to mess with it after it's glued on the knife okay so now it's time for the glue up we're going to be using West systems G Flex epoxy this is my preferred epoxy it takes a while to sit but it's got a decent working time I think like 15 minutes or something so the important thing here is that we get everything clean so I've laid down wax paper and I'm going to use you should use acetone to clean your steel and clean your scales then we will apply the epoxy connect them together make sure you have your clamps ready especially if you're working with something that's like a five minute epoxy if it's a five minute epoxy you have to do this all very quickly this stuff has a longer working time so it's not as as urgent to do it fast now I'll go ahead and clean the scales and the steel and the pins all with acetone as good as I can and then we'll go ahead and do the glue up now once I get everything clamped together the last thing to do is use acetone to clean the blade very thoroughly and make sure that you get all of the excess epoxy off of the blade so here we are after the glue up I will use the grinding wheel to cut the excess pins off and then we will use the coping saw to cut the excess of the scales off also make sure that you're careful not to overheat the pins while you're cutting them off with the grinding wheel as it could affect the epoxy also we're going to tape off the blade but when you tape off the blade depending on what kind of tape you're using I always wrap the blade with a paper towel first because if I just wrap the blade with tape if you put a clamp over that tape it will mash the adhesive onto the blade to the point where you'll actually mess up your finish and it won't just be able to wipe off with like acetone or anything so I always put a paper towel and then the tape so that if I do clamp this side I'm not going to match the adhesive onto the steel foreign [Laughter] foreign okay so right here I made a really big mistake and that was assuming that the coping saw would trace the tang and it actually didn't it actually started cutting into the tang and because of where it did this right where the steel is soft and then where it crosses over to hardened steel I actually had to go and use power tools to fix this so I did go and use my 2x72 grinder to fix this because where the steel is hardened I wouldn't be able to correct that with files so this would be a massive mistake and do not make this mistake and it also what it did was it offset where the pin would be centered because I had to grind into the Tang there it makes the pin sit way more to one side of the knife than the other so that was a really big mistake on my part and it's something that you definitely don't want to do it's going to really make this knife piss me off every time I look at it but that's just part of the learning process and hopefully the fact that I made this mistake hopefully you will not also make that mistake so now I'm finishing grinding the pins flush to the scales with a file and obviously we're back to the hand tools I did use power tools to correct that unfortunately but from here on out we'll finish with hand tools I'm going to use files to grind the pins flush and then I'm going to use files to shape the scales as well so once the pins were Ground flush I will use some sandpaper and just run it across a flat piece of wood to clean up the flats of the scales as well as the remainder of the excess pins and then once that's cleaned up we'll head back over to the Vise and use files to shape the scales foreign foreign the skills to about 400 and then I threw a little boiled linseed oil on them which is totally not necessary but it just kind of helps even out the finished look um I went ahead and sharpened the knife also I'm not going to include that in this video because it's already gone on for too long and I don't want to drag it out much longer but maybe I'll do a sharpening video in the near future so this is the finished knife right here as you can see the big mistake is that the pin is way too far in that direction and has a much bigger space over here so that's going to bother me quite a bit but it still is a usable knife so it doesn't really affect the performance and it still feels perfectly fine in the hand I actually made a second one right here with power tools I did a full flat grind on this one also Stone washed it but I did carbon fiber scales with Tiffany blue liners and as you can see it's just a bit cleaner especially the shaping of the handle I was able to use a router bit to shape the handle so it's you know obviously going to come out more even and betterly better shaped so there's a second version it's also not perfect but I just wanted to make a second one since I was upset about the pin placement in the first one so there you go to build along knives this one made essentially with hand tools with the exception of the mistake where I use some power tools but I hope you guys enjoyed it I hope you learned something and I hope you guys have fun with the build along that's kind of the whole purpose of this thing is just to help you know build the community together and have fun so so I hope you guys enjoyed this video and found it helpful these are the sponsors for the build along and then I'm going to go ahead and read off the uh prize pool so for the overall winner you'll be getting 200 Canadian dollars to Maritime knife Supply you'll be getting Kyle Royers beginner blade smithing course uh Beck's Armory will be sending you a chassis for a belt sand or for a Disc Sander and TR maker will be sending you the nine inch disc that goes with that little machine shop we'll be sending you a layout kit with scribes and squares and that type of thing DIY Europe will be sending you a curved platen for a 2x72 grinder Maximus knives will be sending you a hot stamping jig Kyle Daly will be sending you uh sanding sticks and Brian Cohn will be sending you carbon fiber handle material for the novice winner you'll be getting a 200 Canadian dollar budget to Maritime knife Supply you'll be getting the Kyle Royer beginner bladesmithing course a little machine shop we'll be sending you the layout Kit Kyle Daly will be sending you sanding sticks and Brian Cohn will be sending you the carbon fiber handle material so I hope you guys enjoy this build along and have fun with it that's the whole point just have fun with it and kind of build the community together and as always thanks for watching

Channel: Wengels Workshop

Views: 37,013

Keywords: Knife, Knifemaking, forge, knifebuildalong, fixedblade, howtoo, diy

Id: xP_2LPxkFDM

Length: 20min 55sec (1255 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 18 2022