Before & After Insulating My Garage - Sound Proofing Results. Plus Insulating The Internal Walls

in this video I'll be comparing the sound levels before and after adding insulation to my garage workshop but first a quick recap insulated the ceiling and added a wall and the PVC door in front of the roller garage door mainly to reduce the noise coming into the building from the nearby busy road to improve the audio quality of my videos but also to reduce the sound that I make in the workshop for the sake of my neighbors and thirdly to improve the thermal efficiency of the building for those cold winter months most of the noise coming into the building was coming in through both the roof and a space above the roller garage door the ceiling comprised of some twelve point five millimeter plaster board with two layers of 50 millimeter rock walls sound slabs sitting on top in between the joists and that was all covered in a video I also created a loft space up there for extra storage that was featured in a video too and once that was complete I then built a wall in front of the roller garage door that wall comprised of a wooden frame with some nine point five millimeter plaster board on one face one layer of the 50 millimeter rock wall sound slabs in between the studs and noggins and then some twelve millimeter MDF on the inside face of the wall plus a second hand double glazed PVC door in the middle next I want to cover the work that I've done since those videos I sealed up the space between the bottom of the PVC doors and the concrete floor using one of these self-adhesive rubber strips and that should hopefully help to seal things off even more and stop the spiders getting into I got these from Amazon they seem to be working really well and I'll leave links to them in the description box below if you're interested I also applied some silicon sealant around the window frames because there were a few tiny gaps there after that I made a start on insulating and cladding the block walls from the inside this is something that I had planned to do from the start but I did end up changing my approach to this a little originally I was planning to add a damp proof course plastic to the walls which I was going to staple to the wood and joists at the top of the wall then I was going to add wooden battens fixed to the walls then I would add inside relation between the battens and finally I'd have some sheet material cladding fixed to the front of the battens however after doing some research and getting some advice it was suggested that a better solution would be to create an air gap between the block wall and the battened wall that air gap is a really effective way of reducing sound passing through the wall and it's also a really effective way of ensuring that moisture cannot travel through the block walls into the wooden battens it would also mean I wouldn't need to use so much damp proof course plastic because there's less timber in contact with the block walls however I'll talk about that shortly so I like the air gap idea although there were a few issues first that air gap works best with rigid insulation board because you can just cut it to size and get a friction fit in between the batters and it won't sag or fall out over time I couldn't use that though because a it's much more expensive and outside of my budget and B I already had the rock wall sound slabs from the order I placed before I did the ceilings and the wall so I really wanted to make use of why I had these insulation slabs are not rigid and you can get a nice tight fit with them in between wall studs but over time if I was to use these in a batten frame which had an air gap behind it I would expect that they are likely to start sagging and falling out also I'd already ordered a roll of damp proof course plastic I got it on eBay it was 30 pounds for 4 meter by 25 meter roll so here's the solution I came up with to hold the rock wall insulation inside the battened walls first I took some measurements of the spaces that I wanted to add the battens to which in this example is in between these two block pillars in the wall for battens I decided to rip some 63 by 38 millimeter otherwise known as 2x3 CL s timber in half at the table saw two by threes are cheap there are about three or four pounds in most DIY shops but I didn't need my battens to be as wide as these are so by ripping them in half I could effectively double the material that I had to work with this gave me some battens that are about thirty millimeters by 38 millimeters and three metres in length next I cut two pieces to length using my circular saw and the speed square to guide the cut these will be my top and bottom pieces for the frame and I've deducted about eight millimeters from the dimensions of the actual space because I want to make sure that they fit in there easily once the frame is fully assembled then I measured the height and I could cut more timber to length for the uprights and again I'm cutting these shorter to make sure that they will fit I've positioned everything on the floor so that I could start assembling the frame I wanted my upright studs to be at an equal spacing so here I'm marking that up and these studs will be about 425 millimeters from Center to Center I used screws here rather than my framing nailer because these battens were now quite thin after ripping them down to size so the nails would be likely to split the wood and I've have blowouts to deal with so screws gave me a bit more control next I needed a way of holding the insulation in place so that it couldn't sag and fall out of the wall and for that I used the damp proof course plastic mainly because I already had it having ordered a larger all of it when I was planning to fix the battens directly to the wall rather than leaving the air gap so I wrapped it around the frame making sure that the bottom timber plus the uprights on the left of the right would not be in contact with walls or the concrete floor so the plastic at the back of the frame here is only really being used as a way to hold the insulation in place it's not needed for damp proofing because the air gap itself will do that I could then maneuver the frame into position I secured the frame to the block pillars by drilling a six millimeter hole through the timber and into the block using some Brown Roll plugs and talked screws with one screw in I could then ensure it was sitting plumb and add more fixings okay then to him off the excess plastic to secure the other side I first added some Packers to get a nice tight fit to the wall before adding more fixings I also secured the bottom of the frame to the concrete floor using the same Torx screws but this time no roll plugs were needed and then I cut some wooden shims to fill any gaps at the top of the frame and secured it to the ceiling joists I then cut some noggins to size to make the frame more rigid and help to hold the insulation slabs in place to clad the walls I'm going to be using a mixture of whatever sheet materials I could find that we're either salvaged or bought from people selling them locally on Facebook marketplace and places like that I've got some MDF some OSB some plywood and some chipboard and I wasn't too fussy about the condition because it's all going to get painted here I'm using some 12 millimeter plywood I secured it with drywall screws and I'm not even going to bother filling these screw heads because a once they're painted they're not going to be very visible anyway be these walls are going to have so much stuff mounted onto them that again most of them won't be visible and see is actually quite useful to know where the studs and noggins are in the wall for future reference you don't ever need to mount anything heavy to the walls I then filled any gaps with some white decorators caulk this stuff is fully paintable so it'll blend in better once painted by the way I have no idea who Beck's and Sam are but I want to congratulate them for whatever happened in their lives and thank them for the reclaimed OSB so originally the plan was to clad all of the internal walls inside the workshop but I've since decided to just do the right-hand wall where my miter station will be once it's built this is the wall in between my workspace and the busy road and also the wall at the back of the workshop where my tool walls will be because I really need to get my tools set up there so they're available to grab and use so now is the moment we've all been waiting for just how effective is the insulation that I've added so far to the ceiling and the walls before I did all of this work I set up my camera right in the center of the workshop and they filmed some footage on my camera to capture the noise levels from the nearby road and also took a sound level using an app on my phone obviously this isn't scientifically accurate or anything but hopefully this will give you some idea of how things have improved I'm going to play that footage followed by some footage that I recorded after insulate in the first clip the audio levels were peaking at an average of between 45 and 50 decibels while there was traffic going by in the second clip the audio levels were ranging between 18 and 23 decibels next here is some footage before insulating which I shot of me talking to camera which by the way I recorded really late at night because I wanted to shoot the video while the road was less busy and I'll follow that by some footage taken after insulating we're quite close to a fairly busy road that was right on cue so this is me talking with the road noise in the distance I'm standing about one meter away from the camera and the microphone this is typically how I do my talking to camera segment success I'm really happy with these results insulating the ceiling and having the wall with the PVC door in front of the roller garage door was definitely the biggest most noticeable difference in noise the work that I did in this video insulating the block walls seems to have made a little bit of a difference but really not all that much to be honest most of the noise was definitely coming in through the front and the top of the building that being said I've still got about a wall and a half which have not yet been insulated and I'll definitely want to do that in future but for now I've completely run out of insulation and I don't have many three by twos left to make the battens either so I am going to leave it there for now because what money I have left over in my budget for workshop improvements is needed for other more important things like a new air filtration unit and all of the pipes and adapters that I'm going to need to buy in order to set up my new dust extraction system what's quite interesting with things as they are now is that most of the noise that's coming into the workshop seems to now be coming through the old door on the sidewall of the workshop but I'm not really worried about that it's plenty quiet enough in there now for me to get on with shooting videos without any issues it would be good to get more walls insulated before the winter but I suspect I probably we won't get it done that quickly that's it for this one the next video from me is likely to be about timber storage following that I hope to get started on the miter station and then after that I will probably be doing the dust collection system so stay tuned for all of that I hope you enjoyed the video please subscribe for more weekly woodworking videos if you'd like to receive early access to my videos exclusive content free plans and cut lists and the name credit at the end of the videos you can help to support the channel on patreon there's a link to that in the description box below thank you for watching [Music]

Channel: Rag 'n' Bone Brown

Views: 47,983

Rating: 4.9530725 out of 5

Keywords: woodworking, uk, british, youtuber, rag, 'n', bone, brown, keith, salvaged, reclaimed, make, making, how, to, ragnbonebrown, diy, insulation, garage, does it work, how effective is insulation, sound proofing, sound proofing garage, insulating garage, noise prevention, sound proofing workshop, before and after, results, interior walls, battening walls for plasterboard, insulating internal walls, workshop insulation, workshop soundproofing, soundproofing walls, soundproofing ceiling, noise reduction

Id: b9I2267iVNQ

Length: 12min 28sec (748 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 06 2019