Bedan style Parting Tool

the time has come to answer the big question what have I done to my parking tools the short answer to what I've done to my parting tools is that I've reground them to be French boudin's so what the heck because it began be dan is a spindle turing tool that's used quite common in France I'm told and it's been popularized somewhat in the United States by a turner named Jean Francois Escalon and I'm told that they use these in place of skews now what makes a bean and French well two things first French boudin will be made out of either square stock or rectangular stock and if it's made out of rectangular stock the longer side of the rectangle will be in the vertical component of the tool and that's to give an arrow tool some more rigidity so you have a bit more mass and wild if you imagine this is only 8th inch wide if I use the eighth inch by 8 inch that tool is going to vibrate vibrate quite a bit so by making a little bit taller you get a little bit more thickness and give it some more stability rigidity and stability now a French boudin as opposed to an English boudin which is made out of trapezoidal stock the other difference between an English banana and a French bird and is that isn't the way you use it the French use their be dance with the bevel facing up as opposed to the English boudin which is used primarily as a parting tool with the bevel facing down but with the bevel facing up the French use it to turn beads and do shoulders and children point cuts and all kinds of fun stuff now if I only have a single bevel and the bevel is facing upwards and how do I do how do I get bevel support with this tool and the answer is that the whole back side of the tool is effectively a bevel as well and that's where you actually make your bevel contact typically on a French boudin you'll be rubbing the bevel right on the corners right on this right right here and right there right in the corners of the tool and you tend to cut with the points of the tool as well so now that I've answered the question what have I done to my parting tools I need to answer the why why have I changed my parting tools and to be dance and the answer that question is that baganz make really good parting tools plus that can do a whole lot more and the reason they can do so much more that a parting tool is the way that the fulcrum plays out now if you look at the way the fulcrum plays out on a traditional parting tool as long as I'm parting my cutting edge is right over the part of the tool that's making contact with the two rests in other words right over the fulcrum but if I start to use as tools to say make a bead to try to turn it be denied RIE to turn this tool over if I go a little bit rolled over I'm okay I'm still the cutting edge is still on top of the sill over the fulcrum but the further away the further the more rule is tool over the further away the cutting edge gets from the fulcrum and the work and the the force of the work meeting the cutting edge is going to try to push this tool over and that's when you get your rotational catch I've began on the other hand because the cutting edge is so low in the tool no matter how far roll is to over my cutting edge is still right over my fulcrum so that allows me to roll this tool right over so I can turn beads with this I can do point cuts with this whole lot more than just parting now the trade-off when using a bead and tool is that it takes some getting used to if you remember with a gouge since all the bevel is on one side of one surface on a gouge so basically if this is a 40 degree bevel it makes a 40 degree angle with the length of my tool and that rides fairly low on the work and then with a skew since I had an included angle that means this bevel on the one side is only 20 degrees off from the length of the tool and that's going to ride on the work a little bit higher whether it began since we're using bevel support on the back of the tool we essentially have a zero degree offset from the length of the tool on the bevel that we're using for support and that means the tool is going to write even higher than a skew and that takes a little bit of getting used to and also like a skew and B down tool is pretty particular about making sure you maintain bevel support just like ask you if you lose bellows aport with abadan you will you'll necessarily get a catch and get one of the spiral kinds of catches so you can sew with this beating in this the Dan style party tool I can roll beads that's a little bit tricky it takes a while take some practice to be able to roll bezel to be down but using a point cut very similar to the point cut with a skew with a long point of a skew that cut is not too hard to to learn how to learn how to make and I find that cut alone I find made it worth changing might be my parting tools and tuba-dance now as much as I like using me Dunn's instead of parting tools this isn't for everybody some people simply aren't going to like the way that the DM handles and the other thing you want to be aware of is that if you decide to try this out and grind your traditional parting tool into a bead and and then later on you decide you don't like it and you change it back to where the parting tool you just lost a good half an inch or more on the life of a tool and I priced these parting tools recently and they're not cheap they're anywhere from thirty to fifty dollars as well as much as I like using be Dan's for certain tasks I also have to point out that it's not an essential tool meaning that all of these tasks can be accomplished with other tools the thing I like about using a bead on for a lot of these tasks is that I don't have to switch tools frequently there's a lot of tasks that we have to constantly switch tools back and forth to accomplish and a lot of those tasks can be done all with just to be Dan the one cut that I find really useful when using a bead and parting tool is one cut just like the skew where we were using it long point to cut across end grain you can also do that or to be Dan and what's interesting is that it has exactly the same cue the waste out of trouble and making this cut is exactly like when we did the point the point cup it's cute remember with the point cut with a skew we always wanted to have at least a tiny bit of gap between the cutting edge and the work and this point cut if your dad is no different we want to make sure that we always have when that corner is engaged you want to make sure we have at least a tiny bit of a gap between the cutting edge and the work of course it's a very small cutting edge so it's really hard to see but it's the same cube like a corner in that little guy might not even it's so small my night dear was given camera tiny tiny gap and you can see be dance do a fantastic job cutting across n green that needs no sanding at all so one place I find every dance style party tool useful is well parting but it has an extra advantage when you just hard across a surface said I'm actually feeling it usually doesn't leave a very good surface on this space right here this actually isn't that isn't that terrible but I'd like to do a little bit better I'd like to have a nice clean surface crust there to minimize the amount of sanding I have to do and so typically what I've done in the past is if I'm going to push at the end of the tool if I go to park this off I would part in a little bit parting a little bit and I was switched to my skill - can you get to get my nice clean-cut continue my deep red in here and so I'd end up switching between two of that and forth but a bit to complete this task but if I can roll this over now that this is a began tool I can roll this over and use the 200 side to make that point cut and that way I want to put down one tool I can just do that with you the whole task of one two or a hat without having to switch over and over again so the idea is part just a little bit of material left and pick up my point cut a little tip I at least do we get to the very end of the parting instead of trying to go right across the matter how sharp my tool is I'm always going to tear out those last bits of fiber so what I'll do once I get right down to the end I'll leave a little bit of a nub and the idea is that note is small enough that I can just curl it off by hand a second place I find a begin parting feel handy is in making small beads especially small beads on a fairly large relatively large diameter and what I'll do is I'll just make using that point cut I'm just going to make some little trapezoids of course once again I could do this with multiple rules I should make this point cut with a skew and then switch that switch to my parting tool to get these little grooves little spaces valleys in between but it's a lot nicer every day I will just sit with one tool in the hand for the whole path the way you get these beads to look nice is these valleys we look we look at the valleys they all have to look like they're part of the same cylinder from here since just a small beads you can pretty much descend I'm right into submission and last but not least I find this tool really useful for making captive rings so I'll start out much like I did with the small beads star-forming might be a little bit bigger now in order to separate this from the work from the rest of the work what I'm going to do is and I remember because it's been I got to start fairly high and so I want to establish the bottom of my ring first it was interesting it's a few eyeball just right down the center of this you can actually see both grooves on both sides that way you can get the ring even and now to separate it we're just gonna make that a little bit more clearance is I'm going to stick the corner of the tool in an angle and I'm just going to make a parting tough well it's almost here by that squealing sound there it is and since I'm at it I might as well show how to finish these up to the inside of the ring it's still little bit rough and so some double-sided Turner's tape now I've turned my workpiece into a temporary disc sander now when I first started making captive rings I used to try to make them completely doughnut shape I thought that was the right way to do them but the more I started making them its first of all it's really hard to get that perfect doughnut shape and then very often when I was making these I was making wedding goblets that is goblet with the two rings on it and if you look at a ring somebody wears you know on your finger they're not doughnut shape they're actually rather flat on the inside of the ring so I started making my captive rings sort of flat on the inside it's also much easy to do because I also got to do is keep standing flat on there and I'm done go captive ring I could spend a little bit more time make it look prettier but we'll get a little spritz to see what it would look like when it's finished you can see that bead you can see that began parting to a made pretty quick work out of doing the captive ring all right a couple tips just like my skew I find a bonanza benefit from being really really sharp so I hone them I home both on the bevel side and I turn it over and I'll also lap the back and just like with the skew if I'm using the point I would hone the actual point itself I you the same with the bead and parting two or any began and it's very easy you just lie on the side and you hone that very corner since you're cutting on the corners all the time with the bead and um that actually helps out and the only the very just like the skew you only need a very very tip to be shiny the other thing you can do let's say you've turned your your regular parting to the traditional parting tool into began and you really like the kind of tasks you can do with it but you just can't get use - the way the beginning handles some people just have a hard time getting used to it instead of returning it to a regular parting tool which you might want to try first is just putting a small bevel right on the end of the tool like this I've made such a tool right here and you can see the tip very typical tool looks very much like a traditional parting tool but the cutting edge is still very low on the tool so when you roll this tool over the cutting edge is still over the fulcrum so if you can't get to be down to work I try this one out and see if you can get that to work before you go ahead and grind away the rest of this material to restore it to a traditional parting tool and so ends the mystery behind my strange-looking carding tools and so if you try this out it'd be really curious to know how it works out for you is bead and parting tool just too unruly of a tool for most earners or is this kind of parting tool the best thing since sliced bread so until next time make sure you turn safe and thanks for watching

Channel: Brian Havens

Views: 51,186

Rating: 4.9028339 out of 5

Keywords: parting tool, bedan, point cut, woodturning, parting, captive, ring, captive ring, beads, small beads, end grain

Id: XN8Mok5MJIk

Length: 20min 4sec (1204 seconds)

Published: Sat May 28 2016