Basics on metric speed square

hey guys welcome back from class at work two years ago I made a video that I named the basics on speed square and I just broke a million views here and within the last month and I had no idea when I made this video that would become so popular so had a guy write a comment not too long ago that he had gotten a metric speed square and that the numbers on his didn't match up with mine and I didn't I know that that Swanson had made a metric speed square so I went and bought one and I decided to do a tutorial on the basics on the metric speed square we'll go into a little bit more detail than I did on the on the standard so let's jump right in and get started one thing is that you can tell that the metric 1 is a good bit bigger than the standard one it's not quite as big as the big 12 that Swanson makes but it's in between it anyways we'll go over some of the simple stuff first since it's a square it's made to bump up to the edge of a workpiece and scribe lines very very efficiently and accurately so first thing is you can bump it up to the edge of a piece and scribe a 90 degree line really quickly the other thing is is you can use the 45-degree leg on it just pump it up to the edge and scribe a 45 off on one edge now it's the same as the standard everything about it is the same the degrees and everything are all the same on the metric know that it's changed the other cool thing on the metric one here it's got this large ripper slot in it so you can pick between two and looks like 14 centimeters to rip a board so stick this on board say we wanted to rip 5 centimeters you can hold your pencil in that slot and drag the square down and you have a 5 centimeter line from the side of the edge the other thing on here is it has protractor just like the standard and all the degrees are the same to use the protractor all speed squares have a pivot marked up here on the top edge of the corner for the 90-degree corner on the square so to use it just bump it up like you would normally and then you're going to pivot the square and all you have to do is read on this side of the square what degree that you want it to and you just put that line right on the edge of the board so I'm going to draw a 45 because I'm going to draw a parallel to this one and you'll draw on this side the square not this side just remember that so up there where the pivot is is where you always draw from as you can tell got a nice parallel set of lines here and that is pretty much all the basic stuff about a speed square the next thing I'm going to talk about is what all of these numbers mean up here next thing I'm going to talk about is these numbers right here common in the hip and valley markers now what these numbers were designed to do when mr. Albert invented this B Square back in 1925 was to figure out the angular pitch of a roof so and if you can tell them using the standard one here because the numbers are blacked in you can see them a lot better but what they were designed for was the ratio of roof was 12 inches for the run and whatever number the rise was set on so that was the standard on the Commons at least Commons were 12 inches on rolling always so you come over here you can read this one so it'd be 1 and 12 2 and 12 3 and 12 4 and 12 and so on as it goes up the hip and the valance were set at a different ratio they were set at 17 versus 12 so if you come over here it was 1 in 17 2 in 17 3 4 and so on so you had to get both of those ratios right in order to build the roof so that was the standard one the measured one is a little bit different since we're not using inches we're using decimeters or meters these are divided up in meters or run or 10 decimeters per run I know that's a little bit confusing but as I as I go through it it'll make sense so the common over here if you can I'm sorry the reflection is kind of bad but the common over here was set at 10 decimeters for the run so if you come back here once again you have 1 and 10 2 and 10 3 and 10 4 and 10 and so on the hip and valley like I said before if you can read it right here was set at a different ratio they were set at 14 instead of instead of 17 like the standard so over here it'd be 1 and 14 2 and 14 sorry 3 & 4 four and 14 and so on all the way to 30 so that's the ratio that you have to kind of keep up with in order for all this to work next I'm going to show you some of the basic layout that you'll have on a rafter and what you'll do and what you'll cut and everything so let's take a look at that okay we're going to lay out a common rafter now now I've decided for the pitch on this one we're going to take it at 6 and 10 on the metric speed square here so the first thing you're going to do is come up to the edge of your rafter and we're going to lay out the stone with the plumb cut so put your pivot right here on the corner and take your common line here and put it right on the six take the six put it right on the edge of the board then you'll draw a line and that'll be your plumb cut now there take a tape measure come up from the edge of that board and come down we're going to go 50 centimeters on this one make a mark extend that line a tiny bit so you can get accurate reading off the edge okay now you're going to fit for the square again back to six and ten so six just like that draw another line now if you'll notice both of these are parallel to our Ridge plumb cut up okay now we're going to take our tape and come up from the bottom this here's the bottom we're going to come up say we'll say five centimeters whoops now you can play with this number a little bit depending on what code that you're using it may differ so put a mark right there then we're going to take another square here you can use speed squared this seems to be a little more accurate and you're just going to draw a nine ninety degree line off of that edge this right here will be your bird's mouth this here will be your waste material so that's all the layout for the bird's mouth and the ridge up here let's say you're going to put some facial on the end of this so from your blind right here for your bird's mouth let's come down let's say let's say 10 centimeters right there okay your user square once again now if you have this problem as you can tell I don't have enough board here I can't read to see what it is so what you can do is actually flip your square around and use the other end of the board to make your six and ten once again there you go there's your fascia plumb cut and depends on how you're going to put your soffit in here this here is not a big enough piece of material to do an actual soffit line but if you were going to do one you could take you your Square back and like I said before this material is not big enough but we can see how it's going to look come in here make a 90-degree line there you go this right here is your waste material as well all this okay and as you can see you have your fascia plumb cut with your soffit undercut birdsmouth Ridge cut now granted I left out a very important step which is doing all the math to determine that but I've got other videos on that if you want to check them out I'll put them in the link below and you can learn how to do that but this is just an idea to get you your cut basis on what you need to look for and that's what you want to look like the series are a wall plate and you can see that our fascia and soffit cut or they need to be and you can also see the plumb cut so now if you do not know the pitch of the roof that you're fooling with here's a real cool trick because you have to know the pitch of the roof in order for this to work so take you a torpedo level and come up on the rafter and draw a plumb line after you draw your plumb line up and take your squared put it up on the rafter just like you did lay it out and stick your pivot in flush with your line and you'll come back here and look and see if that the common fits through one of the numbers and sometimes if they're not exactly level it won't be exact as you can tell here but it's pretty close and you can tell that that is definitely a six and 10 pitch well guys I hope you got something out of enjoyed it it's it's a good tool to have imagine I won't use it very much because I don't use metric very much just in my videos but for all the other people out there they use metric extensively it's a good tool so once again hope you enjoy it hope you get something out of it I'll take care of classic work

Channel: undefined

Views: 243,232

Rating: 4.9040804 out of 5

Keywords: Speed Square, woodworking, wood, metric speed square, metric, fast, easy, framing

Id: _LiUseizdQ8

Length: 11min 15sec (675 seconds)

Published: Sun Nov 01 2015