Aztek Dummy Update 1/3/20 - Moebius 1:1 scale HAL Interface

wrong week question blew my mind is coming I can feel it okay I just wanted to have a moment of silence for the clean table it's it's January 2nd it is 1 to 2020 and I'm gonna get one quick evideo out by the rest of this week but I first I wanted to gaze upon the glory in the on a splendor that is a clean desktop and also did the customary type of things that you do it the first of the year at least for me I'll go through my tamiya´s and if I've got like two half jars of something I'll pour them together and and make one jar out of it kind of condense my paints throw out any old brushes that just can't be cleaned again half bottles of CA if I can't you know sometimes I'll get through a bottle of CA and there'll be a little bit left in the bottom and I don't want to throw it out but I'll end up throwing it out anyway so I go through and I do it's not exactly spring housecleaning because we are far from spring but it is a mids a midwinter housecleaning but here we go we have a clean table top and I'm going to do something unheard of in my histories I'm gonna put this camera on a tripod okay the camera is on the tripod a to prove that I do have one and B because this is a rare enough instance where the table is clean enough that I can set one up but it brings us to the first the first model of January first model of 2020 which is dun dun dun the möbius how how I plate and I hesitate to call us a model because I'm sorry I've got some of my own stuff in here the box doesn't come nearly this full you can see I was using it to clean off my table I hesitate to call this a model only because it it's this this that means get the box out of the way it is one two three four five six seven pieces that's it that's the model it's a curiosity I I can kind of understand where they're coming from everybody wants to have a one-for-one prop of how whether for the price they're asking nobody this is not this is no no great shakes now they do provide their own lighting circuit because Howell is known for two things the light the light in the eyeball that's it and the second is that nice calm reassuring Douglas rain voice that tells you yes Dave I'm afraid I'm gonna have to kill you which is not present in this kit obviously such licensing would be very expensive and that's probably why they opted not to but I mean this is there's remedial which is here then this is like below remedial it's it's one piece put there they're put there they're put through there put the dome on top you're done yeah I can build this model in real time for you but I'm going to jazz it up a little bit as I am what to do I have this which is probably one of the last I may have one other this is a sound card this was made by a company called the big dogs and I don't even think the company exists anymore I think they died about the same time as your father did he knew my father I'm sorry I've been watching a lot of Star Wars lately but it is a 5 a 5 sound sound car runs on three tiny batteries I'm gonna see if I can do something about that so I don't worry about changing batteries but it's gonna give me the sounds of sounds of how I can put on there to try to add some life to this now this is designed they give you a nice little I mean one seventh of the parts of this entire kit is the stand in case you wanted to put it on a stand on a table I don't know anybody in their right mind who would put towel on a stand on a table you want to hang it on a wall and this piece has no no no ability to be hung on a wall without adding something and I tell you the biggest complaint these single biggest complaint other than the price on this kit I have is the fact that there's no backing plate come on it's a piece of plastic how much how tough could it be to include a backing plate on this now it's also one of the easiest things in the world to scratch-build and you know that may have been the logic behind it well you know the modeler can just scratch build a back plate on there and put a piece of cardboard or something but you shouldn't have to do that for the again for the price that's being paid and look at this can you see that that means it's not laying flat it's got a twist in it there is not even a molded end lip here if they wanted you to build your own back plate they would have put in a a rabbeted joint here so that you could slide a plate on top of it it is exactly the thickness of a 9-volt battery well it is let me see here's the edge so you could put a 9-volt battery and which is it's designed for its gate the wiring comes as one piece with a 9-volt battery the lid on it but you can put a 9-volt battery and then still sink a backplate over top of that so to make all of this work oh I better dig out the all the number of paints that I'm going to need which is two three I'm sorry they want you to take this grill gunmetal and then there is black paint for the face which does have this very nice molded in kind of a stainless steel pattern to it so I don't want to sand that or otherwise ruin it but it's going to get a nice coat of paint on it we're gonna tape this off because this is where the decal for the how decal goes the decal is backed in white so we are gonna get a very nice there there are some decals here that are meant to wrap around the lens to replicate the wide-angle lens that how was made of but seriously it's black flat black satin black and aluminum that's it but to get started the first thing I want to do is to drill out all of the tiny holes that are in the speaker grille so that when I produce a sound behind it you'll be able to hear it so let's get cracking on that and I think I want to throw a coat of even though this is you know nice plastic and all that I'm not gonna sand this but I do want to sand up the edges here just very lightly and then throw a coat of primer on top of this just so you're not painting on plastic painting on bare plastic is an aberration and you should never do it you should always paint on primer primer is built to stick to ups s to sub surfaces paint isn't always built paint as paint is happier when it's sticking to other paint which is why you put primer on things so without much ado it's let's get started it's what it's Thursday it's Thursday morning I've got today and tomorrow I can't see any reason why we can't get this done okay I'm starting to drill through the holes never have I been so glad to have this fine fine motorized assist on the drilling because this is where you put in the obligatory line about knowing how many holes it takes to fill the Albert Hall this is a ton of holes and there's they did a pretty good job of where they put their reinforcements here they're mostly between the lines of holes there's only this one strip here where you seem to be drilling the result you know align the holes right behind it but that's not so bad all things considered most of them are say are in this big area or like they have placed it between a row of holes but now we get back to the boring part or continuing to bore the holes and here is the great with all 430 two holes drilled out could not have made it through in such quick business without this to me a handy drill now the nice thing about this is that the holes were very light I mean they were already partially drilled through so all you had to do is you know basically break through and keep it nice and round and the hard part was cleaning off the the shavings from the back here to make that nice and clean so the holes were nice and open but now we're ready to put a coat of primer on this and I sweep this up too okay that took literally no time at all but I just think basically made a backing plate for the interface that's all it is two piece of plastic that is got a little notch cut out to go around the embedded switch they've put in there but what I need to do at this point is to put some blocks in the corners here something down in these bottom corners so that when this is put in it doesn't get pushed in too far I want it to be flush with the back of it so all I need to do is measure the thickness of this and then put a stop in there that is that height that I probably will put one here in the center it's not going to kill anybody to do that but again something simple something that something that the Mobius could have done very easily but chose not to for some odd reason and then what I can do is cut holes in here or either put command strips on the back of it or cut holes in it to hang it to like a traditional picture would be hung I just cut a little keyhole right there and just hang it over a nail or a thumbtack even so it doesn't have to be pretty it just has to close out the back and that's what this does so next step is to go ahead and paint this paint this black paint this area in here black and then let that dry mask that off and then paint the whole deal with the aluminum color I can I can go ahead and paint the gunmetal on that let's see this well I've got the black paint out I have to paint not this ring that ring is silver but I have to paint this lens aperture situation thingy part here I got a paint that black as well so mmm tough work ahead already I've determined the height of the the standoffs are the the stays need to be so that when I guess it's still hooked up to of the tripod but I'm moving the whole tripod around but when you push that down a nice level look so I just need to cut let's see one I need to put one here one down there one down there probably two here so four or five more at that height okay as I'm trying to figure out the electronics for this I went ahead and painted it practically everything I've got a couple coats of the black primer on that and depending on how that dries that may be the final black I've got the flat black inside the lens I've got to do some semi-gloss black around the outside but I need the inside to dry first I've got some silver on this ring and I've got the gunmetal on the speaker gray which will go down there I do plan on masking this black I probably won't do that till tomorrow since I've got God knows I've got the whole day to do it but that'll give this black plenty of time to dry so that when I mask over top of it to spray the silver pinstriping there then it will be good and good and cured and now I need to run out and pick up some stuff for the electronics because I figured out I think a way that I can run everything off of this 9-volt battery including the sound card so that I can not have to worry about running these little watch batteries on this card which I prefer not to do and I've rounded up some switches I'm going to make an auxilary little control panel right down here that will hang below Hal with a tiny little Chan to run the all of these multitude of switch but switch wires I do not want to break into the cabinet here I want to keep that clean to show you an example now they they've done this to put the on/off switch and I could if I wanted to put my buttons for the sound effects I've got five different sound effects that I'm going to use and I could run those up the side here but I just think that spoils the look I'm not even really wild about that switch being there to tell you the truth but it's black and it's small and it's inconspicuous these big old red buttons I don't want to have to do so if I can make a little box that's going to go right here and hang on the wall underneath it then you just walk up to it push the buttons and hear the different sound effects that's the goal so what make that happen though I need to run out and get another one of those dollar-store USB power converter things okay I'm back well I did do some running around but I'm back went to the Dollar Tree get thee to a Dollar Tree folks all you see here four dollars that's three USB chargers and two tea lights but all that four bucks it's best time of year to get Christmas stuff but these Chargers I use these like like candy because they have the wonderful ability to go from nine volts or 12 volts nine volts in this case down to 4.5 volts which is your typical USB but it's also the same as three one and a half volt batteries so that ends up being a perfect substitute so all I gotta do is take this apart which is not all that tough they're there they're on sale if cheap but they're not very well put together so they come apart pretty easily and what I want to do is his just one screw that holds them together what I want to do is get this board repowered and then I can make that's gonna work before I start monkeying around with these switches okay great news even though it looks like a mess it works power goes to tiny board which used to be the USB USB goes to sound card switches seemed to be working so all I got to do is stick this out doing this into the kit and we are done so now that I know this works I want to take this put this part of it apart and put these bigger switches instead of these little tiny switches okay I think I got a good place to button it up for the day get this stuff out of here I've got battery to board I've got board power to that's the step-down voltage this goes to the greeting card board I've got the five switches attached and I got an A lengthened a new speaker wire so that I can move this board away from the speaker and not be beholden to where it is so got all the stuff done I'm in a good spot for tomorrow to finish this thing up welcome back to day two of the two-day build I'm pretty confident I'll finish today only because I've got so little left to do I only have to install all the electronics and put it together you can see I have painted keeping the paint nice and protected there what I want to do now is cut a hole in this side right here and the reason I want to cut a hole in it is so that I can slide the circuit board for the sound effects into that little hole and that would give me access to this USB port and what that allows me to do is to change out to something to change out the sound effects I can simply program in a new new series of sound effects for the five clips so I don't keep keep the same ones I tried experimenting with some other speakers today and this is something where I'm really out of my because as long as the electronics are plug-and-play I'm okay but trying to get creative with anything other than lighting is is a mystery to me so what I've what I was trying to is get something a beefier speaker then cut that comes with then what comes with the sound effects card I don't think I think it may have been the you know ohms or whatever the mystical term is but it was not giving this board does not give me enough power to run out and run out sound out to anything larger than just this tiny little buzzer speaker so that's what it's made for this does not have to have you know Dolby 7.1 quadraphonic sound or anything as long as I can get the sound effect to come out of the speaker I'm a happy Pappy so what I need to do is start mounting all these things and the first important thing is to cut a hole right there okay things are coming along pretty well but I've run into a problem a problem of thickness and it is clear that the fine people at Mobius intended for you to use a piece of double stick to hold the battery in place and that's what they engineered for because I tried using velcro figuring that would be a little bit more forgiving a little bit more easy to swap out and it is too thick it is the difference between putting you know velcro in a space here to stick the battery down and using a simple piece of double stick is the difference in the thickness between that and the base are the backplate that I have made fit fit on there and I guess if you don't plan on making a backplate then you're fine to use velcro over there but be warned that a standard 9-volt battery with velcro on it is too thick to have to fit flat and that was the problem it would make a little hump here when I put the backplate on and that would just mean if I was going to mount that on a wall that it would rock back and forth it wouldn't be flat on the wall so I guess double stick it is since double stick takes up no space but here we can see kind of where we're at I've got all of my switches hanging down from the bottom I've got to make a box yet for those this is chase it up through this is the powered circuit and the powered circuit needs to attach to this 9-volt battery and then I need to run a line from the 9-volt down to the led in the center which is as intended here and then also I need to run power to the 9-volt and power to this step-down board and they're going to run off of the same switch so just one more little bit of wiring and we'll be ready to flip this thing over and paint the silver on it which means masking off the black area and all of that kind of stuff so while I've got the hot glue out I need to finish running my wiring and I got the soldering iron out so I need to finish the wiring and then I can pop this back plate on I don't know exactly what is going to be the best way I still would like to obviously put a command strip here to hang it on the wall but I'm wondering whether I need to put screws down on the corners to hold it in or magnets or exactly what is there going to be the best way to hold this back plate on you can see without the battery in there that you make a nice flat back I did have to cut out a little bit more area for the switch because I was cutting out for the switch holder but not the switch itself can't ran into another little snag that I feel duty-bound and compelled to let you in on and is the red bulb the red bulb that comes with the comes with the kit works fine with the 9-volt battery the supply are not supplied with the kit but it is engineered for with the kit however that red bulb and you know the history of red LEDs the red bulb did not want to play well with this other circuit so I had to I had to get rid of it had to send it on a slow boat back to China the red bulb do no bueno don't use it I did pull out another five volt bulb or a five mil bulb that I have that is clear but it is a red bulb it's just not the red plastic and for some reason I'm sure the electrical gods will tell me it will work it and it works fine with the other circuit I can run them both off the same battery everybody is happy kids are smiling children are playing in the street the birds are singing the squirrels are making their nests so all I gotta do now is replace all or reset all of this wiring that I had to kind of rip up once I was into trouble shooting mode so we have a switch switch works to the battery battery works to the positives okay let me just let me get all this cleaned up and then make it neat and we'll get back to you okay I think we have I think I've gotten myself to a spot where I am ready to show off it's got all the wiring and touched in here everything is looking pretty good to this point I've got everything down to this switch and if I pop the LED in there I'm going to have to bend over the contacts there you go so that I can put that in obviously of course the inner dome needs to be take care of and then we've got the outer dome so you've got the the red light Oh Hal there you go and all of the now I still have some playing around to do with the sound files themselves which is why I made the little spot here so that I could re-upload or reinstall new sound files I'm debating you can help me with this of course I've already decided my time I put the video up whether or not I want to frost just this inner dome just the inner dome because I'm wondering if the light from how is too focused so what I'm going to do is I'm going to try this out on another I don't know if I've got another plastic dome around here about the same size but I think I could try something with some clear ptg or maybe even if I can find out like a gumball dome and cut that off and use that as a not just as a test-case frost that and then put the the big dome over top of it to see whether or not that's going to be what I want to do now I the last big chunk of construction I need to do is to let me go ahead and move this up there you go so there you go now you're seeing that say tonight Oh glimpse behind the curtain here nothing is glued in yet but one last thing to do before I mask off the silver and get ready to paint it is to build the box for the switches that go here and that shouldn't take too much time but I do want to get the silver sprayed on here so what I'm thinking I might do is to go ahead and spray the silver because I'm going to be working down here on this box I can go ahead and mask this off and put a coat of silver on it pull this bulb out because I don't mean it right now go ahead and mask off the hi-ho silver and at least get the first coat of it on there and everything could be drawing while I am making up the box down here okay I've got the silver code on probably the first of a couple but I've got the areas masked off that I want to keep black or gunmetal but the silver has been painted and this is a great time to believe it the heck alone will avoid any even though it's acrylic I want to to me a silver I still want to avoid even the appearance of breathing on it wrong or putting a thumbprint on it so we're gonna leave it sit come back in a couple of hours and well I can start playing with the with the box here but there's some of that I can do without ever having actually to touch these I can take the measurements off of them and make the box up and kind of fit it on there which is my goal since I've got more of these switches all I need to do is is grab some of them so that I can mock up the template and we're gonna let this dry while I go do other constructive things all righty now the box for the switches which is switches which is the Lich's switches is right here and that's got some primer on it and it's drying what I want to do now is delicately turn this faceplate around I need to get under here where the decal is going to go and gloss that so that I can put the decal down on top of the glossed area just this little bit so I'm gonna peel up the paint the tape from just this area and well you know actually hmm let me think about that I can peel up the heat from all of it really it's doing a nice job protecting the black but I don't need it I'm pretty much done with it so let's peel up the tape see how we did nothing fancy here just plain old yellow painters tape okay looking very good I'm gonna leave that down I don't really need to mess with that so I'm gonna leave that for later now I've got this area right here that I need to gloss over to put the decal down so I'm going to retake that and to do that I'm just grabbing some of the old two-inch fraud tape when it's at an inch and a half for our cable not really - its - it's two inch to inch frog tape and I'm just gonna lightly tape around the outside edge of this decal or the outside edge of this flattened area where the decal is gonna go it's just a rectangle nothing special nothing flash there and I'm gonna use the Vallejo gloss the clear gloss not going to use anything too obtrusive like a krylon or anything so there you go so I just got that rectangle taped off let me find not the matte varnish I want the gloss varnish varnish so give this a good shake shake shake and clean the brush out really well so let me take care of that and we'll be back in a flash okay so I'm back from lunch took a little bit of a late lunch bit back from that and I am ready to decal this is all ready if this was already sprayed with a semi-gloss on the outside so it's ready this has got the gloss and that's that chance to dry so it's ready this is looking quite nice when you put it all together so let's get some warm water and some decal fluid ready to go okay the decals are down difficult as they were I mean come on and it's difficult as anything else but the rest of this build there is the quite obvious Hal 9000 decal there are some decals that go on the lens casing on both sides there was also one that was called reset said reset on it and it was indicated that it went on the outside here by the switch this number four I said I'm not going to do that one a because the outside of the case is silver and white decal would not show up against the silver and be that switch would never have been there in the first place so you don't really need to reset from that so we're gonna let this stuff dry for a while the box for the switches is drying almost ready to put that in place we're dangerously close to being finished today but the only thing that won't get done will be the final clear coat over top the decals because as is tradition I like to wait at least a day before those are sprayed so that they have plenty of time to dry okay moving right along I'm just polishing up the lenses here the inner and I've decided not to go with any sort of frosting of the inside because it doesn't really buy me anything it doesn't disperse the light or scattering or anything because by time you put it on there it's right in front of the bulb anyway so I'm just taking some of the Novus polishing liquid and cleaning up the plastic the styrene even though it's very clear it can always stand to be cleaned especially since it's going to be sealed once the once it's glued down so many dust that's in there it's going to want to attract itself to the inside of the dome and then I can work on the switch box and then that's the last bit really I need to figure out how to attach the back and how to hold that in place I'm thinking a central magnet will be enough I just have to and especially if I use the bigger size of magnet I think that will be plenty but I can do this jump down grab the seat here I could continue to pick this up and move it aside while I am working so it's not been glued down yet I can mask it or you have otherwise coordinate off to keep it from getting paint on it so there we go and I think what I need to do now is take a little touch of the micro crystal clear that problem I had with micro crystal clear is it does dry clear but it also dries glossy clear and that may be an issue when time comes to look at the inside of this dome I don't want it to be I obviously want to dry clear but I don't want to be a gloss so if I had a glue that I knew would dry flat that would be a different thing so let's see I'm trying to see how little I can get away with if I could just touch the bottom edge of this smaller dome and glue it in place with that just nice and lightly alright I'm not in camera camera still but I'm not in camera so touch there a little touch there and now plopping it in place with any degree of accuracy might be nice if I had a suction cup or something here hmm do I have one of those little gripper things I have one of those little gripper things no let's just go ahead and do it that was sloppy sloppy sloppy just go ahead and clean clean some of that off now you're gonna see gloppy glue inside of there that I can only hope it's gonna dry but there's the inner the inner dome the outer dome is gonna be much the same so let's just get with the gluing I am hoping and praying that that glue will dry clear it has been the historically proven that that glue will dry clear and will all disappear and look good so that's what I'm counting on so one last thing to go really and that is to build this box box put the switches in and glue it underneath so let's do that last bit and get ready to attach this thing to a wall okay there it is it's done if you'll forgive the fact that this micro crystal clear glue has not completely cured yet it is done it was started yesterday morning it is done this today this afternoon and that's with putting the sound boxing so to say it was a quick build is to not give it nearly enough credit for being a very quick build let me polish off that dome here that all works and of course they only get two you only get the lens flare at one particular angle and that's it like that so that's there you go that's the lunge flare that you want right there right there you go and and I think I'm gonna swap those out at least one of them out before I hang this on the wall and here is the final hell on the wall in my 2001 corner of the world this next to my reproduction of the vintage poster the autographed picture of both Gary Lockwood and Keir Dullea of course the award-winning pod and some other 2001 models in the close proximity but there you go and if you're very very quiet you can hear the dulcet tones and yes you can see me in the reflection of the poster doing the wonderful cinematography here but there you go quick to day build and that's how we're gonna wrap up our week to week to day week with the ever so quick and easy to do Hal 9000 interface my thoughts on this kit ranged wildly from a G it's nice to have an accurate Hal 9000 wall plaque to be - all the way to gee what a desperate cash grab because for what it is for what you get for how long it took to bail make for how I'm sure how little resources it took to make it is at least twice as expensive as it should be at least twice it's at least I mean I know they got I know Moby's has to pay for their license and all that but good and Lord this is an expensive kit for what you get I mean you're almost in the resin kit range as far as what resin kits cost for what you get out of them and hey but I'm glad it's done I'm glad I get it thought I finished it I don't think there's anything any part of the electronics outside of maybe in a switch that I kept but it was fun it was a fun use of the of the excuse me of the the greeting card sound card so it was it was a good marriage of parts and subject so until next week when I don't know what we're gonna start on I have the inkling I want to start on something big in this spring but I don't know what that something big is gonna be so I may dig into the cat I may just dig into the stash and see what I've got that I can do in a couple of weeks so until then be good be good to each other you know don't let your he'll talk to your Siri maybe that maybe that's everybody's worried about Skynet and I think Siri is the guy you need to be keeping your eye on or the gal so until next week be good be good to each other and we'll see you here gathered around the workbench [Music]

Channel: Lou Dalmaso

Views: 8,607

Rating: 4.9342465 out of 5

Keywords: Lou Dalmaso, Aztek Dummy, Model Building, HAL 9000, 2001: A Space Odyssey

Id: nna25nrjjfQ

Length: 41min 1sec (2461 seconds)

Published: Fri Jan 03 2020