Automating Fridge Fans - Temperature Control, DHT11, Arduino, Fritzing - Automate the World!

[Laughter] in this video I show you how to speed control a fan using Olivos d1 mini [Music] alright so to give you context for this project our Deep Freeze lives on the right side of our kitchen counter it's an Engel drop-in fridge freezer we have it configured as a freezer most of the time and it came originally with the compressor unit mounted underneath the freezer box and it would run and of course get hot and ready to eat the heat out but it seemed silly to me to have the hot thing underneath the cold thing because heat rises and it's gonna be fighting itself so when I ordered it I got the remote compressor version which has about 6 feet of refrigerant lines soft copper lines and you can remotely locate the compressor further away so that's what we've done the refrigerant lines run from the bottom of the deep freeze along behind our cabinetry and then down here beneath this cupboard is a false bottom and beneath that is our freezer compressor of course had a small fan on it to keep the compressor cool when it was running and it had an output wire from the fridge controller that turned the fan on when the compressor was running in it seemingly did a fine job but then the fan died and so to save my freezer full of food I bought a typical computer case fans now this is a 120 millimeter fan that's a little bit bigger than what was on there but it's been slower and quieter so I thought that was very nice unfortunately the output from the fridge controller then died many months later oh maybe a year later and so the wire coming out from the fridge controller no longer sends power to the fan and so to combat that problem I have wired it directly to power so the fans are always running and so I have two of these Arctic cooling fans they're a high end computer case fan very quiet and high quality unfortunately the vibration has broken the blade off of both of these fans and while I've super glued this one on it looks complete right now I doubt it's gonna hold up to life on the road and so we stopped in at a stirring store which is a kind of like a Radio Shack here in Mexico and I picked up two replacement 120-millimeter 12-volt fans and then we drove some many hours away and then I powered them up and they sound like jet engines so that's going to be the project for today is to speed control those fans slower so that they're quieter and also temperature controlled them so that they run it at appropriate speed for the thermal load they're dealing with so on the last video I got a lot of criticism for making it more complicated than it needed to be and that's fairly true for example on this fan speed controller I could very easily just get a simple temperature controller like this one and I have one in my hand here in side of the road in Mexico unfortunately this is not a speed controlling temperature controller it just clicks a relay on and off and so those very loud fans would be clicking on and off full-speed so that's not going to work secondly this is fun and easy to do and while the way I'm doing it is probably not the most efficient or the cheapest way you could do it if you were designing a product it's it's a good way to learn and I hope to teach you guys something with that I realized there's better ways to do a lot of this and if I was just doing it for myself I would just do this off camera and be done in a fraction of the time but I'm doing it to show you guys some stuff so how we're going to be doing it is with a we MOS d1 mini this is an Arduino based 8 to 66 Wi-Fi module and this one I have soldered on the header pins so that it just plugs into the header board and rather into the breadboard like this so to control the motor I'm going to be using this Adafruit 8 8 71 motor breakout port it's a h-bridge speed controller for small motors up to about three amps and this one's nice because it's bi-directional it can spin the mower forward in Reverse and it handles all the PWM stuff for you it's sort of so I'm gonna be using that here just to show you guys a basic setup so that plugs in there and then you need to connect ground from ground to ground and then the input pin from d1 to input one and then connect to battery I'm using as a stand-in 318 650 cells as a surrogate to power this whole thing temporarily and plug that in there polarity is correct and obviously you guys didn't see any of that so let's jump into the computer here and I've got a basic drawing here inside of Fritzing which shows what I've connected so I'll zoom in here to the meat and potatoes first we've got the we most d1 mini and the Adafruit 8 8 7 1 driver board again this is overkill for this project and I'm not going to use it I'll get back to that in a moment but it's what I'm using to illustrate this easily so I'm going to power this demonstration via USB so I'm not powering the the Lemos externally from a battery yet so I'll even just remove those and so basically all i've got connected here is this ground pin from ground to ground here and it's a very neat feature with Fritzing that all of the pins are labeled so when you mouse over hover over any of the pins it displays what is what and so you know to connect power to this so this is a ground or what have you which in this instance is pretty simple because they're already labeled ground d 4 d 3 and so on on the part but for something like you know a more complicated dip part that you don't know where you're not sure of the pinout it's very nice to have that function that when you hover over it it illustrates or pops up a pop-up showing what it is anyway back to the back on topic here ground is connected to ground input one is connected to d3 and then if i zoom out here you can see this 12 volt battery source is connected to the power input on that driver board and the motor output goes out to the fan alright so now to program this Arduino with some software to do something useful the first example I'm going to use kind of addresses the big criticism I had on the last video where people said that the blank server that I was using is dependent on an internet connection and while I demonstrated a link server that was in the cloud we actually have a local blink server or an advanced web server script running on these Arduino so throughout the truck so I'm going to demonstrate that to you know so first step I did was just go into the arduino ide and under examples under the esp8266 web server is the advanced web server right here I've made some minor changes to it for the sake of time but basically that's it you enter your Wi-Fi credentials and at the top and then some other bits and bobs I'm not going to dwell on it too deeply but basically it creates a little web server that you can access from your smartphone laptop Python script curl whatever you want to do and so what it's doing here is it's waiting for a URL request with a number trailing it so I've got four examples set up here if I request the IP address slash 600 it sends a PWM PWM value of 600 if I set it to a thousand it sends a thousand thousand and one that's a bad example 1100 today and so I will upload that script to the to the me Mouse alright so I'm gonna pull my mic off here and just set it next to the fan so you guys can hear it and then as you can see on my screen here I just go to the IP address 192 168 10.50 and I put him here slash 1100 [Music] slash 600 and so all it's doing here is it's parsing this extra section of the URL from behind the IP address and and then running you can see that here and then it just runs whatever is in between these two brackets so it's basically just setting the fan speed to 600 1000 and so on so that is a very simple way to control the pins on the way most to control things I've got many setups where I've used such a we most bored and just have the outputs going to a relay board like this and then it doesn't matter you don't need blank access in the cloud you can do it from your smartphone locally if you wanted to so obviously you wouldn't want to be typing URLs into web browsers just to trigger events on a on a device like that so what I use a lot of here in the truck is I have Python scripts or bash scripts that are hotkey down right here - this your keyboard and you just push the button ctrl alt s and that does something or control old.i and that does something and all that's doing is running a bash script that runs a curl which is a application that does neat stuff I don't even need to type this so I can enter here 190 down to 0 and then 1,200 so that's a practical way to have a script that you can trigger from a keyboard or SSH in and remotely trigger something on a server that then triggers the pins from the Wemo support to do something useful enough of that all right so the next thing you need to understand is how motor speed controller works if you're as old as I am and you dad had an old terrible drill that you would pull the trigger and it was just on or off click on click off and it had one speed that was too fast you would pulse the throttle to maintain that slower speed that you need to to finish going through a hole or whatever you're doing you would pulse the speed of the motor to vary the speed that's exactly what this is doing except much much faster it's called pulse width modulation and the power pulses on part of the time and off part of the time and it's happening so fast that you don't see it's slowing down and the inertia of the fan blade or the load whatever motor you have keeps going and it's you don't notice the the off gaps because it's freewheeling during the off gaps so it pulses on and off and if you're at 50% cotton 50% off you're going to be an approximately half speed not true but don't don't worry about it if you're at 90% on 10% off that's going to be close to 90% and so on so it's basically turning the power off and on very fast and that's how it's controlling the speed of the motor so if you had a drill when you're pulling it mm-hmm like this that's approximately twice per second or two Hertz and you could certainly hear that in a drill and now for how that applies here I'm going to reboot this up again and you'll hear the motor and you can hear that high-pitched hum it's kind of a terrible frequency sound and you can hear it and I certainly wouldn't be able to sleep through that with it 10 feet 5 feet from my head running a fridge fan so you can see here on my screen I've got a command called analogue Rach frequency 30 and that means it's turning off and on 30 times per second approximately so if we change this to 30,000 and then re-upload that script and I should mention it has been at 30,000 for the rest of this demonstration that's why you didn't hear it before but without that analog great frequency command in there see now it's running again you can't even hear without that declaration in there it will spin at a much lower frequency I'm not sure what it is didn't count don't care but to get it nice and quiet and smooth sounding and smooth running you can increase the right frequency 10,000 is reasonable this processor seems to max out at about 30,000 with it when it falls apart so that being said it's I just wanted to make that clear before we move on because it's gonna play into it here in just a moment all right the next piece of the puzzle is temperature sensing so I'm going to get rid of this motor controller for just a bit and introduce you to my little friend this is a dallas semiconductor DS 18 B 20 it's a digital thermometer digital temperature sensor that are very accurate down to four decimal places and they communicate on what's called a 1-wire bus and that allows you to connect many you know many I think it's 1024 or 250 five of these sensors all on the same pin on your controls so they get positive and negative of course five volts and then you can parallel many many sensors all connected together and they're addressable so you just need to learn the address of which sensor is which one and then and then have many in parallel and it uses very little i/o on your processor that is very nice and we use a lot of these I've got seven of them in the truck monitoring air conditioner temperature at the duct water temperature the temperature of our batteries battery monitor controller all sorts of stuff all wired with these D s 1820 sensors this one is encased in the stainless steel watertight doodad but they all function on the same principle now I was going to use this but this is the last one we have and some of you know we're on the side of the road in Mexico waiting out this whole virus issue so I don't want to just burn up my last one and secondly they are very picky about timing the the frequency at which the commands are sent and retrieved to get an accurate measurement is very precise and when I implemented the 3,000 or 30,000 rather the analog right frequency or even 10,000 Hertz the the reliability of this sensor just fellow at the bottom so for those two reasons I didn't want to use that so I braved the elements and we went into town about a week ago and went to this Stern store this is an equivalent to RadioShack or what RadioShack used to be and I got a bunch of doodads see what else I got here they had some of these perf boards which are handy to have some other doodads but the most important part is a dht11 digital temperature and humidity sensor now these aren't nearly as sensitive or accurate I guess it's the word I need but they are cheap they're about four bucks and they're cute and they do humidity as well which I don't have a humidity sensor in here currently so I will have that sensing underneath our fridge at least I should mention our trip to town was weeks ago so by the time you see this video it's likely going to be 3-4 weeks ago that I was in town and since then the whole state of Oaxaca has enforced a facial mask enforcement and shut down non-essential businesses so that's that's just my statement of core virus and going out in public there but anyway let's plug this in I'm probably gonna jump right into fits in here and show you how to wire this up all right so another change to my final game plan on this project is going to be this eight eight seven one driver board it's a beautiful thing it allows me to show you very easily power comes in here fan or output power comes out here ground connection input connection so it's great for an illustration and it's a great little deal I recommend it to all my friends but it is overkill for this for sure there's like 10 or 12 bucks or something and just overkill so instead of running a motor driver like this I'm going to use a simple transistor unfortunately I don't have any here on the side of the road in Mexico and so I'm going to use the 2803 which I have dozens of so let's modify this drawing to use that okay so a little overview of what I've done 12 volt battery that represents our house batteries that live underneath me and that's fused although not shown here and then runs over to where the fridge compressor is so that power comes up this wire to the 70 803 this is a five volt voltage regulator and it takes this red wire 12 volts in and turns it to five volts out and you have a ground wire running to this ground rail here five volts out goes to this board feed feeds the power for the we most module and and also for the temperature sensor the temperature sensor dht11 gets five volts from the voltage regulator also this 5 volts goes through this 4.7 K resistor to pull up the data pin which is the second pin here the third pin is unused no connection the fourth pin is ground goes ground easy peasy and rather than they fancy motor controller I showed before I have the uln 2803 and as you can see these three inputs are all connected in parallel and that just beefs up the capability the those drivers can pull or sink 50 no 500 milliamps per channel so that's 1.5 amps for each of the first two fans which are the big high speed fans and then I have one more of these Arctic fans which is still in good shape which I'm going to run on the last set of outputs which I've parallel two of those together to the last fan so that is that I'll wire it up in theory it should work alright fast-forward a little bit and here it is all wired up sort of I used a scrap piece of perfboard here you can see the jumpers connections on the back I'm not going to dwell on that too much a couple here on the front the dht11 temperature and humidity sensor the 2803 Darlington array which I'm using it's three discreet motor controllers this is a a 5 volt switching power supply so it's basically a 5 regulator except it's switching which means it's high-tech and has twice the number of pixies in it and then of course the we mouse module and I've not used d4 as I did in the drawings because it is controlling also the blue LED which I want to be able to disconnect so instead I've used d5 and just ran a jumper over there so there it is I could jump into programming it here and show you but instead I'm going to install it and then jump into programming it all right so I've dismantled the cabinets underneath our sink area you just saw me take out the false bottom that normally covers all this stuff in there here at the front you can see s bar D - air heater this is the the original compressor for the angle I've mounted it here on silicone tubing so it does have some vibration dampening in there these are the two new fans that I've got here in Mexico and this is the Arctic cooling fan one of them it is still good and I'm going to install that there in just a moment and the circuit and then here I've got my bling cap sort of cobbled together to demonstrate this is the Arctic cooling fan just switch that on and then I can turn on individually these other two fans and as you can hear they're quite loud and this is just off and on but it demonstrates that it's working so now let's move up into the software and get into some temperature controlling and other automation type stuff all right so let's jump right into the code if you join me here on the computer will go to examples blank CC and here you can enter the board that you're using we're using an ASP actually using we most d1 and Wi-Fi connection and you could put your auth token in here and then example they have all these example sketches that you can get started with but you don't even need to do very much just get the basic blank blink example going up here and then over here copy example and then paste that into a Arduino sketch enter your Wi-Fi credentials your SSID and password and your auth token 1 2 3 4 which is not the real off token and this is the whole program right here all you need to worry about well the setup just turns on the serial debug which I'm not going to get into and starts the blink sub process and so you would program that to your board and then when you go into your blank app you can click here and just I'm not gonna get the blink app it's free and I follow along but basically you would add a button click up here click Add have the button I've done that already and you you can see here these three fans and click there and the output is digital pin 1 in this kit your d0 in this case you can see written right there and I got it set to switch it can be push-button where you where it's momentary and it's only on if you're pushing the button down or in switch mode it toggles so that you can have stayed switched on so I've got D 0 D 1 and D 3 which are the three digital output pins that I wired those three fans to and then click play and that's what I've been using here to show you I can turn these fans on we can maybe hear them from here there's screaming and that's that's a super easy way to remotely control simple things if you just need to turn it off and on and and that's all it has to do that's fine I tend to go a little bit more complicated because I'll get into why so instead of using digital whoops in here so these are digital pins I just showed you you can see written here Digital there's also analog so depending on the board you're using the Wii most only has the one analog pin and virtual pins and that's the that's the money shot because there's hundreds of them and I basically use them like variables so a virtual pin one is not actually controlling a pin on the board but the software is aware of that pin so you can say in the software in your Arduino sketch you could write if v1 is on then if you want to switched on then run the fan for ten minutes and then turn it off or any number of things you want to just script in that way you can say turn the fan on for ten minutes then turn it off or turn the fan on until a temperature reaches this and then do that so that's the that's the big difference is digital controls in here is just what was slow fan zero I think yep digital controls are just digital when you push them on that pin comes on when you turn it off it goes off and that's all you can do virtual pins allow you to to do something based on that variable so now that you know that let's get into this I'll show you the next step all right so a common question I get a lot of the time is oh how do you program that can you do an in depth depth deep dive on how to program Arduino no I'm not a great programmer I don't pretend to be I don't claim to be but there are amazing examples built right into the Arduino IDE so join me on the screen now in the Arduino app application go to file examples in there is countless you can actually count them but almost countless number of examples that can teach you very easily how to do what you want to do so let's open a very basic one here basics blank boom amazing all this stuff at the beginning nonsense doesn't matter then down here at the setup function run twice and you're right so all it's saying is this section here titled this section void setup Andry thing between these brackets is the setup section of that of this program and it just runs once when you turn the thing on it sets since whatever parameters you set in setup in that area and all it's doing is setting the pin mode or the mode of that pin to output so the and so in this case it's using the LED built-in pin which is on our green o boards that have a built-in LED you can just call LED built-in and it knows which one that is and it's setting it to an output because many pins can be inputs or outputs or analog outputs and so on so and this is just setting it to a output that's all it's doing that's that whole section then void loop a loop is going to repeat over and over when when it's supposed to in this case of white loop just runs forever and ever and all its doing is digital write which is writing to that pin or changing the state of that pin of LED built in to hi turning the voltage from a low voltage zero to high voltage three or five volts then it delays 1000 milliseconds and then it writes led built-in low and then delays another one second and then gets to the end here and it runs again and it just loops on and on so it's a blinking LED amazing and it is that easy you can go through here and there's examples for motor controllers Wi-Fi connectivity parsing data over HTTP chat servers there's so much stuff in here I haven't even looked at half of it so go in have a look and then just copy and paste chunks of what you like into your program now it's not to say there aren't pitfalls for example if you're missing this one : down here it's not good to run I try and compile this it's but it usually gives pretty decent errors it says it's expecting this : before the curly braces curly bracket there so it highlights it Orange and says this was needed why didn't you put that there so you put it there and then press this little compile or verify button in the top left and it runs compiling sketch you can see down here and then it'll say complete we're very happy there so done compiling and so that's how you know you did a good job and you don't even need to have any of this batteries or email sports or Glee knows of any kinds to to play with this and learn it just go download the Arduino IDE play with these examples and press the verify and and get get the hanging all right so it's been about a week since I started this project and the software is evolving over the course of the last week I've you know realized that I don't need a 70% it's a 70% fan speed because it's no better than 40% fan speed it doesn't get any cooler so why run it that fast and so it's a working project progress a little bit still and I'm sure I'm going to changed a little bit still but let's step through this code here and I'll show you what's going on these includes just refer to libraries so the yeah esp8266 is the library that handles the Wi-Fi stuff this arduino OTA is over-the-air update library and basically the library is just bits or chunks of code that you can utilize or call on to do work for you without having to write the code yourself and so many many projects you'll find have these libraries ready to go and handle a lot of the dirty work for you so that your code can remain very simple so i'll show you some examples of that here in a moment but anyway they're using the blank simply esp8266 library in the DHT temperature sensor humidity sensor library then moving on next are the the variables that declare the fan one is connected to digital output 1 fan 2 is connected to D 3 fan 3 connected to D 0 down here the DHT sensor is connected to D 2 I'm setting some variables here fan override to 0 fan speeds % 60 so it defaults to 60% defense speed if it can't reach the server or if there's any problem it always defaults to 60% and then down here you declare your off code from blink so this you will get from the blank app when you create a new project and you just email it to yourself and then paste it in here and then comes the setup section so like I said a moment ago setup run runs once when the when the way most board or whatever Arduino you're using boots up so it just runs and sets all the the settings that you need it to set in the beginning and only need to be set once so here it's setting the serial output baud rate for the serial monitor it's starting the blink service using the auth code which is indicated here using the Wi-Fi SSID and password which is not real and then moves on to synchronize all the variables from blink which is just a blink sync all command in this whole section here is just the OTA update code so it's using the arduino OTA library and all this updating the blink over-the-air what else then down here it just serial print line which means that's going to print out over the USB to the hunter which is not connected right now but it prints out that line that it's ready then it prints ya address so that you can find the IP if you need it yeah then analog right range rather than being a variable being an one or zero and 10024 I have the range from 0 to 100 so easy to use for and here is analogue right frequency that sets frequency of the PWM I mentioned week ago to 2,000 Hertz so that puts the pulsing frequency sound up at the upper edges of audible so that you can't hear the fan when it's being pulsed at a very high rate and this is pin mode that just sets fan one two and three the mode of those output pretty simple you begin turns on the temperature sensor library part and then these are costs anytime you see a void and then a name of something that's just you declare it and from really bracket to this curly bracket is the subroutine and everything inside of it is going to be executed when you summon that subroutine and basically it's setting a variable called humidity to whatever VHT read humidity returns temp returns read temperature and then there I've got a little while loop here and a while loop how do I explain this a while loop happens until something else is true is the best way I can easily explain it but basically it's checking if humidity temperature is not a number so while the humidity is not a number or while the temperature is not a number or if the humidity is over 200 percent or if the temperature is over 100 degrees Celsius or if the humidity is less than zero or if the temperature is less than zero then it'll say bad data trying again it will delay 1000 milliseconds and then read the humidity and temperature again so that is a little while loop and I added that because I was getting some funny numbers like 28 million degrees and 72,000 percent humidity so once in a while you do get a bad reading from the dht11 sensor and for that reason I just put that little catch-all in there to shut down any of those bad numbers because if it reads the temperature of negative 5,000 then it just turns off the fans and and then of course it's gonna check again in two minute or in a moment and then turn the fans back on so I was getting this fans off and on baloney so this is just running to to make sure that the value returned from the sensor is good then it prints out the temperature and humidity over the serial connection the serial monitor and then it writes to blink a blink out which I've got set to v1 over other v5 and v6 for humidity and temperature and so what that's doing is just contacting the blink servers and writing those values so that we can see them on the app which I'll show you in just a second so that that whole subroutine there's also a subroutine called control fan speed and all that does is he prints the fan speed over serial and then writes the fan to to whatever I calculate the fan speed percentage we'll get to that in a second and it turns on the small fan the slow arctic cooling fan is so quiet and slow that I'm just turning it on digitally 100% and just turning it on just cuz so that's that these are fun little things this is the blink right subroutine and anytime V 51 gets written which I have set as a virtual button on my control screen if I turn on that button V 51 fan override becomes 1 if I turn it off it becomes 0 so I can use that bit of logic to say if I press the override button then do this other thing additionally I have a slider which I'll show you in a sec and that is tied to be 52 virtual pin 52 and anytime it's changed it updates fan speed percent to whatever I change it to I change it to 60 percent it updates the variable fan speed percent to 60 percent all right so then is the void loop the best of all the loops so right here the first thing is blink run that just is the library or the subroutine that's handling all the blank stuff for you so you just call that and Blake works send sensor is the subroutine that checks the temperature and make sure it's a valid number and that the temperature is not minus 10,000 and 20,000 percent humidity which I was getting some of that and then it checks to see if the fan override button is switched on if the override is on then it sets fan speed percent which is the slider to control the fan speed so it runs the fan speed control loop with the slider value so that's if fan override is 1 or on if an override is not on it's in regular mode then it checks if the temperature is less than 22 degrees turn fan one to zero off fan two to zero off and fan three to zero off and it also sets the value of that slider in blink b-52 to off so the slider indicates that it's on or off if the temperature is between 22 and 30 Celsius it turns fan one off fan two off and fan three on and that's normal room temperature if it's just normally warm in here the little slow nice quality fan will come on and just keep it nicely circulating so the last condition here is if the temperature sensor reads over 30 degrees are greater than 30 degrees it will map the temperature between 25 and 45 degrees to a fan speed of 10 to 40 percent so at 25 degrees the fan is going to be at 10% at 45 degrees it's 40% and it maps everything in between so 30 degrees will be it so 28% or whatever so that that remaps those numbers - to fan speed percentage numbers they're just a simple quick and dirty way to ramp the fan speeds with the temperatures and then lastly it writes the fan speed percentage - V 52 which is the slider I'll show you on the app and then all done it waits five thousand milliseconds or five seconds and then it runs again to adjust the temperature every 5 seconds rather adjust the fan speed every 5 seconds and then my favorite part Arduino OTA handle this is the over-the-air update for the Arduino which is buried out down inside that cupboard but every 5 seconds when it gets to the end of this main loop it checks to see if my laptop is trying to contact it to send it new code and when it is it receives the software into memory and then writes it to itself and reboots alright so updating over Wi-Fi normally you would just go to tools porch and select the the board at the IP address that you have specified in the in the sketch and you could update over Wi-Fi just by clicking that and then clicking the upload button up here unfortunately I've buggered up my system and I think it's the Python Python isn't compatible with the Python version I have installed right now so that doesn't work but I'll do it over command line so moving here this is the script I'm running ESP over-the-air update script to this IP address which is a little quite P of that freezer controller using the file link we mouse fan controller dht22 ino d1 mini bin boom sending request waiting for device uploading uploading uploading okay and now in two seconds that's going to write the code to itself and reboot kind of you can hear that it's at the fan speed to 60% which you might recall is the default until it figures out what it wants to do and then it's now running the real code so now moving to blink we don't need these tests down here anymore go away you so I will recycle all those credits into my thing of a doodle there we go so as you can guess this has been running for a week there's a better view you can see in blue the fan speed in percentage as it changed the temperature changes throughout the day the fan speed changes and I'm also plotting the temperature and humidity which interestingly the humidity goes up quite a bit in the night and down in there in the daytime current temperature inside the compartment is 37 degrees because it's been sitting there not running anything no code for the last half hours I've been trying to film this video and yeah but now the fan has just kicked off and here's where this override comes in I've got it set to actually why does it say button let's change that now just so you guys can see how to change the name of button override great great super so now there's this button titled override and it's currently set to temperature control and this slider is set to 28% you can see this number up here 28% that's the percentage that the software has calculated to run the fan speeds at if I override that by turning the override to manual I can set the fan speed to 100% and every five seconds it goes through that loop and hopefully you guys can hear that down there so that's that when I turn the override off it will calculate again the fan speed and set the slider back down to what it calculated and all you need to do is really mess around with that mapping a little bit until you find the the good range where where the temperature is controlling the fan speeds to a reasonable level and that's why I set up the override because I would set the fan to let's say thirty eight percent and watch the temperature over time as you can see here that's it's plotted plotting the temperatures and I would turn the fan speed up and at some point you can turn it up as high as you want it's it's already as cool as ambient air there's no point in running it any further so you can kind of get an idea for how to map it that way so I've got it mostly figured out I've got the temperature control set to temp control so it's handling its own temperature fan speed control all on its own right now and further improvements could be having that Lemos module check the temperature of that temperature sensor in this room and say let's say that the room temperature is 25 degrees Celsius that's the best it can possibly achieve so there's no point in turning the fan speed off trying to get the temperature lower than 25 degrees in here because that's as warm as the room is anyway all right that's going to be it for this time I'd like to thank our channel members without them this wouldn't be possible these guys are chipping in a little bit month to help me buy supplies and and you know everything that goes along with making these videos so a big thank you to Lori Berg Mike Fisher Colorado 4x4 van Joshua Randall Martin Tim Scott Hayes East Rodriguez Finn coaching Sean Broderick the heap Jeep Derrick Ellis Blake bowling Dinesh Oklahoma Overland these are tier 2 & 3 members whose contributions are making it possible for me to find internet and upload videos for you guys so a big thank you to them there has been some costs involved with this project when I was prototyping this whole deal I was using a wiimote on a breadboard with the temperature sensor and you know I showed you this one for but for those who just fast forwarded to the end I was running these fans off of this battery pack it's a little 15 650 batteries to to power the fans and I was recharging that with my very loved Skye RC imax b6 Ford and this charger unfortunately hit the bed and left skid marks down the back of the case and so it's totally cooked and unfortunately I can't find another one here in Mexico so I'm gonna be without that for a little while there's some other setbacks various problems I'm not going to dwell on too much but I'd like to thank the channel members because without them I wouldn't I wouldn't push through these these setbacks I would quit and throw it all out the window so thanks so much thanks for watching we'll see you next time you

Channel: Everlanders

Views: 14,253

Keywords: temperature controlled fan using arduino, temperature controlled fan using arduino and dht11, arduino digital temperature sensor, dht11 arduino, arduino uno tutorial, temperature controlled fan for greenhouse, dht11 arduino code, temperature sensor arduino, wemos d1 mini, wemos d1 mini temperature sensor, wemos d1 mini blynk, wemos d1 mini tutorial, wemos d1 mini project, RV Fridge Fan, RV Fan Cooling, RV Hacks, Raspberry Pi Automation, temperature controlled fan

Id: KX67lBrizPg

Length: 49min 54sec (2994 seconds)

Published: Wed May 06 2020