ATC Spindle Part 1: Wiring, Programming and Testing the Hitachi WJ200 VFD

today we're gonna get the new three horsepower spindle wired up and take it for a test run and hopefully we can avoid letting the smoke out or more precisely letting any more of the smoke out welcome back to cloud 42 I'm James in minut aureus Christmas video I showed the new three horsepower automatic tool changer spindle that I picked up to install on my CNC mill this video is the first part in a series dedicated to getting that connected mounted on the mill and integrated into the CNC controls the goal for today is to get the hitachi v FD and all of the supporting electronics safely installed into a cabinet wire it all together and take the spindle motor for a test run now we've got a three horsepower motor a seven-point two kilowatt power supply and a VFD with more parameters than you can shake a stick at so if there's ever gonna be an electro boom moment on this channel it's gonna be today let's go over to the bench and get started this is a spindle that I showed in the Christmas video this is an FM 30 F this came from CNC depot and it's actually a pre-release motor this is something that they're not actually marketing yet I found out about it talking to Alex there about one of their other spindles and he suggested that this may be a better fit for my application just to be clear I'm not sponsored I paid for this spindle directly so I don't have a kind of a sponsorship deal there but the reason that this is probably going to be a better fit for my application is because this is a four pole spindle motor most of the CNC spindles are router spindles that you would buy from Chinese sources are two pole motors and what that means is that when you feed them in the maximum 400 Hertz power that you get from most VFDs they'll spin at 24,000 rpm this one being a four-pole motor will spin at half that he'll spin at only 12,000 rpm with 400 Hertz power and so you don't have as high of a top speed but the advantage is it should have more torque at lower speeds so in theory I should be able to not only use this up around you know 12,000 rpm with small tools in aluminum I should be able to run this at lower rpms with probably still small tools in steel so I should be able to still do CNC milling in steel with this time will tell will see as ice as you are aware you know I don't have this on the machine yet I can't really make any kind of a recommendation about whether this is a great spindle or not because I haven't used it specs look good I'm hopeful we're gonna go ahead and get this on the machine here ultimately and we'll all find out together now in the back of this spindle are all of the connectors we have an electrical connector and this has the three phases of the motor plus a safety ground plus two wires for a thermal cutout so that if the motor overheats we have a feedback signal to the VFD so we can trip the VFD and shut it down and not burn up the motor we also have two quarter inch outside diameter push-to-connect fittings for air this one here on the outside edge is for purge air for the case and the one closer to the center is to activate the drawbar so it's a pneumatic drawbar to release the to let go of the pull stud and allow the tool to be extracted and to put a new tool in and grip it now the purge air on the case has to do with the way the bearing SEALs work on the business end of the spindle we've got the 30 taper opening here and we have the the spindle rotates here and there's a seal around that bearing to prevent stuff from going in but since this is a really high speed operating spindle a rubber seals isn't very effective at high speeds plus you get friction and heat so I believe what this actually has is a labyrinth seal which is a couple of pieces of metal with rings that fit together and interlocked so that you have a long passage for things to get in or out but the way this keeps things out and keeps them from getting into the spindle is with compressed air so there's a supply of compressed air going into the case it's about two cubic feet per minute at 90 psi and that is constantly flowing through the case and constantly flowing out through the labyrinth seal at the nose and so that constant flow of air coming out prevents coolant and chips or grinding dust or you know whatever you're doing with the spindle prevents debris and coolant from getting in and destroying the spindle nose bearings the bearings in this spindle are steel hence the top speed of 12,000 rpm in theory if you had a high speed inverter that could go above 400 Hertz you could go faster they're good to 18,000 they do have ceramic bearings available for these so you can run them to 24,000 beyond the two pole version of this spindle but for the four pole I'm only gonna run it's 12,000 so the steel bearings are gonna be sufficient the spindle came with a cable set you can see the connector here this mates with the top of the spindle there's a little o-ring seal and this has course has the same pin pattern and it came with this already made up cable set this is actually pretty nice already pre-terminated will hook all of this stuff up in a minute but this is something that would be a pain to do because the cable wiring is you know pretty heavy in here the individual conductors are fairly large and so doing a nice neat job of termination into a nice connector like this is a tedious and complicated task so I'm glad that came with it now before I run this at all I want to connect the purge air I do not want to run the spindle without having some kind of air source hooked up because I don't want to risk getting any debris back into the spindle bearings now I don't want to just hook this up to shop air because the shop air comes right off the compressor it isn't filtered it could have debris in it it could have water in it I want to run the air to this through a filter and a dryer or at least a water separator so when I picked up all of the additional parts to hook this up I got an air filter this is a two-stage filter there's a coarse filter followed by a fine filter plus a pressure regulator to set the pressure that actually goes into the spindle so in this case the fine filter is a point three micron filter so it's very fine and should remove any kind of contaminants that could be a problem for the spindle bearings now this has eight inch non parallel threads and I've got the right push to connect fittings here so let's just go ahead and hook this up so we can have a clean air supply for the spindle for testing oh those are not eighth inch NPT those are quarter inch NPT I got some of those too [Applause] okay connect the supply air to this fitting on this side and the output on this side and then we'll connect that into the spindle let me go connect to the compressor and let's get some air flowing here I'll go ahead and dial this up to 90 psi or something like it okay I'm not sure if you can hear that but we definitely have air coming out through the spindle now so I think we are about ready I'll go ahead and shut the air off for now to get out the electronics and get those hooked up now when I've set up previous VFDs like the one on the lathe and other electrical boxes like the one for the electronic lead screw I used a CH Keo series hammond box that didn't have a backing panel which means I just put all the components in the box and built the electronics in there screwed directly to the back this time I'm using a different kind of a box that actually does have a sub panel so there's a sheet metal panel that comes with the box or you buy it separately that is separate you can mount all the components on it so when the screws come through the back they don't go through the back of the box they just go through the back of the panel and then the panel mounts on standoffs inside the enclosure so this is convenient for a number of reasons one the screws don't stick out the back of the box so you don't have to have it out on furring strips you can actually mount a flush to a surface but also it allows you to work on the electronics out in the open so they're not buried down inside a box so I've gone ahead and connected up all of the components that we need for this VFD installation onto this panel and as you can see the twelve by fourteen inch box that I got is kind of the bare minimum size that would actually fit all of this so let's take a look at what we have here so first of all down here in the corner we have fuse blocks I've got two thirty amp fuses and a 2 amp fuse now the two thirty amp fuses are for the main power that's coming in for the VFD this is 220 volts or in my shop it's 240 volts at 30 amps so what is that 7.2 kilowatts as a significant power supply even though it's only a 2.2 kilowatt inverter three horsepower it can if the voltage level drops or if you get into overload can it can actually draw more power than that so it requires 30 amp service to the input side of the VFD so I've got a 220 or 240 volt 30 amp service here in the shop to run this on and so I'm running the two hot wires through 30 amp fuses and then those go up to a contactor and this contactor is to turn that power on and off we feed out the other side of the contactor to this noise filter and this is a 30 amp RFI noise filter designed specifically for this application it's a two-stage noise filter with inductors and capacitors in it to filter radio frequency noise and prevent that from getting out of the inverter and back into the power supply so then after we come through that that power then feeds down and goes to the input phases on the inverter so that's the main power circuit for the inverter next we have a 24 volt power supply and this 20 or 24 volt power supply is going to be used for a few things it's going to run a cooling fan in the box it's going to be used to run the scylla need for the air for the power drawbar on the spindle and it's also used to activate the contactor to switch in the 220 volt power now normally in a situation like this you would set up either a biggie stop button or some other control buttons to turn the contact or power on and off I'm taking a little bit different approach I already have a hundred and twenty volt power in my CNC mill enclosure in the wiring box for the CNC controls and so what I'm gonna do is I'm going to run this power supply off of that separate hundred and twenty volt supply that's what this other two amp fuse is for we'll feed that power in here to this 24 volt power supply so when that supply is switched on it'll supply power to this power supply which will switch on the contactor and turn on the VFD when I turn off the power in the CNC control box this will switch off the contact will open and the VFD will shut down so the VFD power is just being remotely controlled by the CNC power in here the power in the CNC control panel so I've got the the 48 volts here and then that's wired down to some screw terminals down here just for power distribution to hook up the fan and the other components they're gonna be in here let's get this installed into the box and get it wired up this is the box that I'm using this is a little nicer than the CH Keo series enclosures that I typically use it's got a nice textured powder coat the reason I got the more expensive box is because I needed something that was deeper to fit the Hitachi PFD that I'm using this is actually eight inches deep as opposed to the CH Keo boxes I usually use which are only six inches deep and are a quarter of the price this is about $100 for a box this size and but as I said I've been really impressed with it really nice powder coat finish this is actually made in the USA actually made by the Union there's the smart union logo in here now I've gone ahead and made the modifications that I needed to the box you can see I've cut a hole here and put in a fan grill that's the exit air the VFD air will come out of the VFD it'll come out here it's going to come in the bottom I've got another fan grille on the outside here and the fan mounted on the inside this is a 90 millimeter 24 volt fan I've got the wires pre-terminated with Ferrell's on them all ready to go now I've got power feeding in this is the 220 volt power the feeds in down in this corner and building a cord set for 220 is complicated so I cheated I actually just bought off of Amazon a 30 amp twist lock 220 volt power extension cord because I was going to have to go source the soow rubber wire and I was gonna have to source the connectors and by the time I got you know all that figured out and looked at the price it was cheaper just to buy the cord sets so I just bought one cut it off to length and mounted it here in the enclosure so this will go in the wall after everything's connected here and then and that will provide the 220 volt power input for the hundred and ten volt power that's coming over from the CNC control panel to power this up and run the contactor I just got an ordinary line cord this was just an IAC computer line cord I just cut it off ran it through a grommet or ran it through a cable gland and I've got that terminated and ready to go and then for control wiring have actually already mounted the connectors on the side of the box here and I've got a couple the VFD actually uses an rj45 connector for the remote control and so I've just got a pass-through bulkhead connector for rj45 to pass that through the case and then I've got two circular polarized connectors that I will use for data one of these is going to go out to the foot pedal and and the power signal wires to run the the valve for the automatic tool changer and then the other one is going to connect over for control to the CNC panel and so that'll provide control of the VFD remotely through Mach 3 or mach 4 if I ever upgrade and also provide East op signals and trip signals back and forth so that the CNC machine can trip if the VFD trips or if I hit the e stop on the CNC machine it can stop the spindle as well and I haven't populated any of the pins in here because their current pins and I don't want to actually crimp and use up those pins until I am actually ready to know how long the cables are going to be so for today anything we hook up will just hook up inside the case so let me grab the panel and let's get it mounted now I have to say I have purchased law tools recently and I got a lot of tools here in the shop but this was an unexpected pleasure this is a little craftsman screwdriver that I picked up at my local Ace Hardware store and you know I've you know i believe that craftsman was a good name back in the day and they made some good tools and then there kind of came a time when yeah maybe they weren't as good as they used to be but you could still walk into a Sears and get them replaced if anything happened and then there's today where it's basically a zombie brand and it's been licensed out to everybody and so every Home Center and hardware store carries craftsman stuff and my assumption is you know is pretty much all junk but I needed a long screwdriver to actually reach down and get to the screws in the bottom of this box without having to bang my knuckles around in here so I was in an Ace Hardware and found this and it's a craftsman screwdriver it's like an 8 or 10 inch long shaft Phillips and I was really surprised it's actually made in the USA and I'm also really surprised with the tip on this thing it grips the screws really well yeah maybe it won't last I don't know but it just made me happy to find a little made-in-the-usa tool in my local hardware store that actually works and yeah I know it's just screwdriver but it made me happy now the fourth screw that goes down in this corner actually has a little star washer that goes on it so that this screw will make electrical contact with the panel because as you can see down here there's a ground connection all the grounds or star wired back to it and it's connected to the sub panel and so this little star washer cuts through the powder coat so that will get electrical contact to the box so the box will also be grounded and now we just hook everything up and the last thing I want to add here is the jumper wire for the VFD external control panel plug that in there and then take that down to the bulkhead connector last is the cable for the spindle motor itself and I've just got this through a cable gland so now we need to connect the three-phase wires the UV and W lines to the VFD and I'm going to run these through some fair rites to try to filter some of the radio frequency noise this does a few things this takes out high frequency common mode energy that could actually damage the motor bearings and it helps to prevent radiated energy from this cable from causing interference to other systems here in the shop now this is not ideal these small fair rights there are much larger fair rights that are designed for that I've actually got one ordered when it comes in maybe we'll talk about those a little bit more so let me go ahead and hook these up okay those are the phases the last are the thermal switch so this is the thermal cutout if the motor overheats this is a normally closed circuit so energy is or electricity is normally conducting between the two and if the motor overheats this will open up and we want to connect that to the VFD so it will know that's happened and can cut the power so I'm going to connect one side of this to the L which is the negative terminal and the other side I'm going to set to input number three and then we'll program the VFD to know that input number three is e stop so it'll automatically cut the motor power if that opens up okay that is a nice neat installation I've already got the fuses in here a pair of 30 amp fuses and in this case is the 10 app use because it's all I had to impose our coming in the mail so I've got a 10 amp in here but it will be a 2 amp when things are ready to go this actually has a fuse internally in the power supply so I'm not too concerned about that okay let me hook up some power and let's just power it on and make sure that it actually powers up before we go any further yeah I have the 220 volt power connected to the wall but of course nothing has happened because the 110 is not connected as soon as I plug this in the contactor should close and it should all power up and there goes your hearing the fan in the VFD but the fan in the case is also turning and the display is on so I think we are good let me close this up and get a program see if we can make this thing turn ok programming the VFD this is a complex of EFT that has a lot of features and so I went ahead and just printed out the manual and the manual for this thing is 400 pages and I went through all of it I tried to take some shortcuts and I ran into some problems and decided that if I was gonna figure this out I just need to read through the entire manual and as you can see here I've got all these little red tabs on the side here these are all parameters that were of interest to me that I think I may want to use at some point not all of them today but this is kind of what's involved in getting some of this sorted out so I've gone through this process and I'm gonna give you the short version of what we need to do to get this VFD running on this spindle so hopefully if you come along and do something similar you won't have to spend all this time though honestly if you're gonna do something like this I do highly recommend going through the manual and actually understanding everything that's going on because there are ways you can get into trouble most of the time though you don't need to change most of the settings there are just a few things that are needed and the manual does kind of walk through that so let's power this back up I have the external control connected so we can do all the programming from here so that powers on and we've got our display here so let's take a look at the settings so this manuals got all the detailed information about all the settings and I've gone through and figured all this stuff out but then it has another section here in the back which is just the table in the order of how the settings are on the control panel menu so that you can just set it up and actually just go through and you have a record so if you have to come back and program it later so there's a few things that are necessary first and there is one huge gotcha and that is that this VFD comes configured for simple operation mode and they call it the software lock mode selection and by default it has a bunch of parameters that are not actually available in the menus and so you have to go in here and change B 0 31 to 10 in order to allow access to all of the menus so we can say a function and go through till we get to the B's I'm going to hit it there's B and we need to go to 31 31 set that and it is set to 1 it's that right B 0 3 1 is currently set to 1 and I want to set that to 10 so hit that set it to 10 set okay so now B 0 31 is now set to 10 so now we actually have access to change all of the other settings in the VFD so let's start with a few simple things we want the frequency source that changes the speed of the motor want that to actually come from this pot on the external control and that's controlled by a 0 0 1 so we go back around to a a 0 0 1 and we want to set that to zero okay 0 that's the pot on the external controller that's this our run command source like where do we want it to run I want it to run from this Run key right here we're not going to setup any external controls so that's a 0 0 2 and that needs to be set to Ho 2 which is what's already set ok now we have to set the frequencies for the motor now the VFD normally assumes you have a 60 Hertz motor this spindle is not a 60 Hertz motor this is a 400 Hertz motor and that turns out to be critically important I played around with this a little bit previously and I tried to power this up with it set to 60 Hertz not knowing any better and the VFD immediately started pumping too much current through the motor it immediately overheated and I actually got a little bit of smoke out of it a little bit of smoke started coming out through that labyrinth seal I panicked shut it down contacted Alex at CNC Depot and he said that that is not the first time that's happened he's actually done it himself the key is you have to set this up as a 400 Hertz motor in the VFD otherwise he will try to send full vote voltage to the motor at slow speed and it will overheat I have no idea what that means long-term certainly some of the insulation in the motor was damaged by that it still seems to be okay and if anything happens you know they said they'd take care of it so we'll we'll see how this goes but I expect that it's going to be fine but we do need to set the base frequency of the motor in order to avoid that happening in the future that's a zero zero three but in order to be able to set that up to 400 you have to set the maximum frequency on the inverter up that high first so that's a zero zero four so a zero zero four I've already got that set to 400 and then back down at a zero zero three set that that's set to 400 that's the base frequency for the motor okay we also need to set the voltage select for the motor the AVR the automatic voltage select me to set that to 220 so that is a 0 82 let's go find that a is 0 82 it's set to 230 and let's set it to 220 that's the correct value for this motor is 220 okay the next one is the current limits now manye calls this level of electronic thermal but they're basically just talking about how much current it's allowed to put through the motor and that's B 0 12 so let's go to the B settings B 0 12 and for this motor it's 10 amps it's already set to 10 amps okay that's good and then we also want to set the carrier frequency this thing will run anywhere from I think like 2 kilohertz to 15 kilohertz and I don't want to hear the carrier frequency so we're gonna set it as high as practical according to alex at cnc depot he recommends 10 kilohertz beyond that you don't really get any benefit and it just puts additional heat stress on the motor so that's B 0 83 B 0 83 and it's set to 10 kilohertz okay there's a few extra things in here I want to set be 165 this is what happens when contact with the external operator is lost since I'm gonna be using this external operator for the run and stop switch if something happens and the VFD loses contact with this I would like it to trip and just shut down so I'm gonna set B 165 to 0 which means it should trip if this gets disconnected and this is just a safety thing be 165 it's set to 2 which is ignore and I'm gonna set it to 0 which is trip so if this gets disconnected the VFD should trip and go into a safety shutdown okay so for input number three where we hooked up the power or we hooked up the thermal switch we need to set that to e stop so that it will actually kill the VFD if that gets triggered and that's a C setting C zero zero three and it is already set to twelve that is e stop that'll actually cause it to shut down and then we have to set the polarity of that that's C zero 13 and that needs to be set to normally closed and that's already right there zero one is normally closed so that's already set to normally closed so that means if we go in and disconnect that wire the VFD will trip I'm not going to test that but if if the motor does go over temp it'll trip now I did not have that connected when I let a little bit of the smoke out before and I learned my lesson that will always be connected this first thing before I set anything else up in the future let's check a couple of other things here the motor capacity it's a 2.2 kilowatt motor that's H 0 0 3 just make sure that's right I think it is by default H 0 0 3 yeah 2.2 kilowatts that's correct and H 0 0 4 is the number of poles on the motor this is a 4 pole motor and it's set to 4 okay that was the default so that should be good and we just look through the rest of this ok so I think that is enough to make this thing run now I am going to monitor the current while we power this on and that is D 0 0 2 so I will set that and it's showing zero point zero amps set the speed to someplace in the middle of the range and I'm just going to hit run to power it on and the motor should turn and there it goes and then this should control the speed slow it down and speed it up [Music] you can see the motors drawing about one point three amps that's what we would expect if that was 15 or 16 I would be shutting it down instantly I'll go all the way up to 12,000 rpm and that sounds pretty good I'm hearing a little bit in the bearings and my understanding is that that's normal because they have not run in yet and over time as you get some hours on the spindle those are quiet down and it's also very cold here in the shop and if this runs for a little bit and warms up they should quiet down as well [Music] okay [Music] okay that's working but this is currently running in what's called VF mode which is voltage frequency mode it's not running in sensorless vector drive this VF t has another mode called sensorless vector drive that allows it to run the motor with high torque at low speeds and we want to enable that and so there's a setting to turn on sensual this vector drive mode and then we have to do a tuning operation on the motor to get the parameter set properly so that it can control the motor in that sense release vector drive mode okay that is a zero 44 so let's go to a zero 44 select that it's currently set to zero which is constant torque of the F mode and I want to set it to 3 which is sensorless vector drive okay so that's set to 3 now that we have that set we need to do the motor tuning operation now there he is a gotcha with this motor and this is something that Alex let me know before I did this is that you want to set the base frequency of the motor to 300 Hertz for the auto tuning for whatever reason this motor responds better to the auto tuning when it's set to 300 Hertz so we'll go change that that's a zero zero three and then we'll set it back after we've tuned it a zero zero three and we'll set this to 300 now I don't want to cursor down a hundred or a thousand times so if you press one and two up and down at the same time then it goes into a mode where you can edit one digit at a time okay so that's set to 300 and now let's follow the tuning procedure okay so we've already set H zero zero three to motor size and motor poles we've set the base frequency in the AVR voltage now we need to enable Auto tuning and that is H zero zero one and we need to set that to two which will be tuning with motor rotation and then all you do is just hit the run switch and the motor will tune it'll do its tuning and then it'll display the result either a zero if it's completed with some underscores or some little lines with an angle and we'll see what happens so run so I can hear it pulsing different amounts of power through the motor and presumably it's measuring the electrical characteristics [Music] motors spinning up [Music] you go turn the air on I forgot to do that okay and that shows auto-tuning complete this is what it says you'll get if it completed and succeeded so clear the display with the stop key okay and then activate the new motor constants by setting h 0 0 2 2 2 let's do it [Music] h00 to set that to two okay let me just go back and make sure that eight zero zero one automatically reset it did okay and that should be it we should be set in sensorless vector drive mode let's go ahead and spin this thing up in that mode and see if it sounds any different just make sure oh wait I've got just eight and change the frequency back change this back to 400 Hertz okay I got the Kurd display back here and essential inspector drives all set up I think we're ready to run I've got the speed set near the middle let's see what happens [Music] it's 12,000 rpm so they're down to something really slow and it's turning she'd be able to run this thing really really slow I don't know how much torque it actually has it that speed but it is churning and the current looks good well I think that is all we're going to get to for today it is really cold out here in the shop and if you can't hear it in my voice I'm actually shivering a little bit this is what happens when you lose a bunch of weight I guess the next thing we need to do is configure the valve for the automatic tool changer and I want to wire that into the VFD and set up what's called an interlock circuit to prevent the tool changer from being released while the VFD is spinning and we will work on that next time if you enjoyed this video please give me a thumbs up feel free to subscribe to the channel and leave me a comment if you have specific things you'd like me to cover in detail on this project let me know and I'll see what I can do thank you for watching [Music]

Channel: Clough42

Views: 61,884

Keywords: Automatic Tool Change, ATC Spindle, CNC Spindle, ISO30, ISO30 Spindle, Hitachi VFD, VFD Programming, VFD Wiring, Spindle Wiring, 3 Phase Spindle, DIN Rail, NEMA Enclosure, Cable Gland, Hitachi WJ200

Id: WagTkJSxt3c

Length: 41min 6sec (2466 seconds)

Published: Thu Jan 23 2020