Unknown yet radiant, Armenia was historically located between the Black, the Caspian and the Mediterranean seas, comprising a territory of around 400.000 km2. Nowadays The Republic of Armenia is located in the north-east of ancient Armenia and shares a border with Georgia, Azerbaijan, Iran and Turkey. Over the course of many millenia, the combination of the impressive spiritual strength of the successive Armenian populations, and their incredible capability to adapt, gave rise to a seemingly invincible Christian race, now considered to be one of the oldest civilizations in the world. Since independence from the USSR in 1991, this small country of about 30.000 km2 has become an industrious and modern nation capable of pleasing the most demanding tourist. Visiting Armenia means entering Humanity’s purest traditional roots and discovering one of the most fascinating legendary enclaves of Europe. ARMENIA The Land of Noah The echoing sound of the duduk, a flute made from the wood of the apricot tree and a symbol of Armenian identity, fills the Garni Temple. Its melody evokes the past of a people that date back to the third millennium B.C. Armenia arose and prospered between the Southern Caucasus, the Iranian Plateau and Asia Minor and for long periods of its history has been occupied by Persians, Romans, Arabs, Byzantines, Mongols and Turks. With the arrival of Tigranes the Great to the throne, an age of magnificence dawned. During his reign, the Armenian territory stretched from the Caspian Sea to the Mediterranean and Egypt. Five centuries later, the creation of the unique Armenian alphabet helped generate a wealth of exceptional manuscripts and parchments. The deportations and massacres committed by Turkey culminated in the Genocide of 1915, and as a result Armenians fled all over the world. Today the Armenian population totals 10 million; 3 million live in the motherland and the rest is made up of Diaspora in 120 countries. Yerevan is the capital and largest city of Armenia. It is an "outdoor treasure" with more than 40 museums and many of the country’s 4,000 monuments. It is also an enormously hospitable city where one can feel the values of a country characterized by peace, security and political stability, the perfect place from which to explore the vast riches of a land that for centuries has struggled to survive between its neighbors. In the province of Kotayk, next to Yerevan, stands the Katoghike. It is the main church of the impressive Monastery of Geghard, called after St. Mary, the Mother of God. This monumental complex is surrounded by numerous khachkars, crosses carved in stone to commemorate a military victory, to remember the dead or to commemorate an important event in national life. The holy compound, now a World Heritage Site, is composed of a few chapels, chambers and tombs carved out of the cliffs and unique high-reliefs like this coat of arms of the Proshian family, which features a lamb trapped by an eagle between two chained lions. Besides being an important center of pilgrimage, Geghard is a great place to get married. The crowning of the bridal couple is the climax of an Armenian wedding service, a ritual symbolizing how they will reign over their future marital home. On the way to Geghard we find another fabulous treasure supported by 24 Ionic columns made of basalt stone, Garni Temple, destroyed by an earthquake in 1679 and rebuilt during the Soviet Era. The temple was erected by the 1st century Armenian king, Trdat I Arshakouni and dedicated to the pagan god Mihr or Mithra. It has been suggested that in the first century A.D, it became the summer residence of the Armenian kings who described it as “a house of coolness”. Its elegance complements the spectacular "symphony of stones" shaped like a church organ’s pipes, which is also located in the Khosrov State Preserve. The warm reception offered by the people of Garni gives us the opportunity to watch them making the unmistakable lavash, Armenian bread made with flour, water and salt. After the kneading process, the dough is slapped against the walls of the tonir, the family oven. The result is a kind of soft tortilla ideal for stuffing with various tasty ingredients. Witness of a glorious past, here is the majestic three-tiered circular church of Zvartnots near Echmiadzin. Its solid structure and intricate combination of arches and buttresses reveal the high quality of Armenian architecture in the seventh century. The monumental complex consisted of the church itself and the palace of the Catholicos Nerses III, the Catholicos being the Patriarch of the Armenian Church. Zvartnots is in UNESCO’s World Heritage list thanks to its artistic value and the uniqueness of its column capitols. Mount Ararat can be seen from Zvartnots. It is the mountain where, according to The Bible, Noah’s Ark came to rest. Ararat, now in Turkish territory, is a 5165-meter-tall giant, but above all it is a sacred symbol for Armenians who were consider to be direct descendants of Noah who populated the Earth after the deluge. The closest point to Ararat is the Monastery of Khor Virap. It was here that St. Gregory the Illuminator, the first pontiff of the Armenian Church, was imprisoned before healing the pagan king Trdat III of an incurable disease. Because of this “miracle” King Trdat converted to Christianity and Armenia was the first nation to adopt Christianity as its official religion in the year 301. Vineyards fill the valley of Ararat, but it is the apricot orchards that really flourish here. It is said that they are the best in the world and that the apricot originated in Armenia, the latin name for the fruit “prunus armeniaca” meaning “Armenian Plum”. 3,000-year apricot stones have been found in the ruins of the Garni Temple. The name of Yerevan, or Erevan, comes from this fortress from the Urartu Period called Erebuni. It is within the limits of the capital and is an excellent reminder that Yerevan is one of the oldest cities in the world. The archaeological remains exposed in the Erebuni Museum legitimize this claim. Just 50 kilometers away from Yerevan, on the southeastern slope of Mount Teghenis, the small town of Tsakhkadzor spreads out. It has been a well-known ski resort for more than fifty years. The main infrastructure of Tsakhkadzor, which in Armenian means “Valley of Flowers”, is of an excellent technical quality which is why this wonderful sports town is a key tourist destination all year round. The population of Yerevan has grown by almost six times since the Armenian architect Alexander Tamanyan redesigned it in the 1920s. It is now a large city made up of 12 districts. The statue of Mother Armenia celebrates the bravery of women fighting for peace and liberty and in the Genocide Museum and Memorial an eternal flame burns in honour of the victims of 1915. The native Armenian name of the country, Hayastan, comes from the mythical Hayk, a giant warrior, born by the first gods according to the pagan belief and later considered by Christian tradition to be a descendant of Japeth of Noah, and founder of the Armenian nation. A statue of the composer Aram Khachaturian sits outside the Opera House and the National Ballet. The building is a prestigious cultural center with a capacity of more than 2,500 people. The acoustic quality of the Khachaturian Auditorium sometimes acquires emotional properties, sometimes acquires emotional properties, especially when there is a performance of a piece by the famous poet-minstrel and musician Sayat Nova, "the king of songs", who is generally considered the greatest folk performer and composer of the Caucasian region. The voices of this choral group and the chords of the tar and the oriental lute generate melodies which conjure up the spirit of the Armenian nation. We are on Aragatz, the highest point of the Republic of Armenia, an extinct volcano composed of four summits around a deep frozen crater. Lake Kari (or the Stone Lake) is 3,250 meters above the sea level. This splendid natural environment attracts climbers from all over the world and in the summer it becomes a perfect place for tourist excursions. Around here it is normal to come across the Yazidi, an ethnic group of Kurdish origin. Yazidis are strong defenders of the unalterable homogeneity of the family unit and follow a social caste system. Amberd, which according to popular etymology means "fortress in the clouds", has an ancient castle which was destroyed by the Mongols in the thirteenth century. Its thick stone walls hang on a hillside of Mount Aragatz and in silence they seem to watch over the beautiful church built in 1026, which is anchored at the bottom of the valley. Gyumri resurfaced from the ashes after the terrible earthquake in 1988. Only a few buildings such as the Armenian Church of St. Nshan or the Russian Orthodox Church were left standing. The creative talent of the Armenian people and the tenacity of the 250,000 inhabitants of Gyumri made the restoration and beautification of the second most important city in Armenia a reality. Famous buildings include the “National Museum of Architecture and Urban Life” and the magnificent sculptural representation of Mother Armenia in Gorky Central Park, which honours the memory of those patriots who died during World War II. Albert Vardanyan is an Armenian artist of universal renown who has his studio-workshop in Gyumri. His sculptures have traveled around the world and many countries proudly exhibit his work which systematically expresses universal concepts such as peace, hope, war and pain. Pieces as delicate as this attractive figure of a woman emerge from his miraculous hands. Traveling northwards, on our way to Lori, one of the 10 marzes or provinces of the country, the horizon widens spectacularly. It is a stunning area, enhanced by the Bazum Mountains that soften the cold winds coming from neighboring Georgia and provide an appropriate climate for camping in the midst of a comforting solitude. If such outdoor adventure is not for you, this luxurious hotel is the ideal alternative for enjoying an unforgettable vacation. Right on the banks of the crystal-clear Debed River, it is a great starting point for taking long walks and exploring the magic of Armenia’s northern plateaus. Sheltered by the farmlands of Lori Berd, which was already an ancient settlement in the 2nd and 3rd centuries B.C, we see the religious symbols announcing our arrival at a fortress that was once the emblematic defense fortification of the capital of the Kingdom of Tashir-Dzoraget, a vast domain that in the year 989 A.D. included territories of present-day Armenia, parts of Azerbaijan and Georgia. Fort Lori has the enchanting characteristic of the medieval enclaves and even though it is practically in ruins we can still recognize the inaccessibility that characterized it more than 10 centuries ago. A new surprise awaits us in Odzun, the domed basilica rebuilt in the early part of the eighth century by the Catholicos St. Hovhan III of Odzun. In addition to its successful conservation, this church is a sanctuary of great artistic value to Christianity because its walls are believed to house the oldest known image of Jesus with the Virgin carved in stone. The recurring khachkars announce the proximity of another religious monument. In this case it is the Sanahin Monastery near the town of Alaverdi. Once again, when contemplating its complex internal structure, the very high quality of the religious buildings developed in Armenia between the eleventh and thirteenth centuries becomes evident. No less striking is the Haghpat Monastery, also near Alaverdi, which like neighboring Sanahin has been declared a World Heritage Site. The most characteristic carvings are, the Armenian crosses, which usually have a trilobed ending on the upper and lateral arms, and no two of which are alike. The cross of the khachkar is almost always a “living cross”, with foliage growing out of its base: a symbol of life and rebirth or resurrection after death. The Badarak or Divine Liturgy is about to start in the monastery. Behind the candles, the priest enters the sanctuary while the congregation sings the Khorhoort Khoreen, a psalm honoring Jesus Christ, and which expresses the mystery of the Son of God’s divinity. The priest acknowledges his human frailty before all and wafts clouds of sacred incense. This procession marks the beginning of the Liturgy of the Word and the Liturgy of the Eucharist, two essential components of the Holy Mass of the Armenian Apostolic Church. On the outside it looks just like another monastery. However, the fortified compound of Akhtala is home to one of the jewels of the Tumanyan region. The Byzantine style frescoes which adorn the Church of the Holy Virgin depict scenes from the Old and New Testaments in splashes of exuberant colour. A long list of Christian saints such as Cyril of Alexandria, Eusebius of Caesarea, Basil the Great, Clement of Rome or Gregory the Illuminator, decorate the walls and domes of a unique church, which is skillfully surrounded by a wall of basaltic rock. In Yerevan, the surface of Republic Square is like a typical Armenian carpet and the tufa, a local volcanic stone, gives a pinkish tone to the buildings. From here, we go underground, entering the bright depths of the city: the subway, pride and joy of the capital. With ten stations and 13-kilometers of tracks, it is the quickest way to get around the city. It was inaugurated in 1981 and took only nine years to build. 1.600 years ago St. Mesrop Mashtots, an Armenian monk, created the Armenian alphabet. Behind him we find the 36 original letters of the Armenian language and further up the Matenadaran, the Institute of Ancient Manuscripts. During pre-Christian times Armenians used a system of hieroglyphs called “mehenagir” or “pagan temple script”. Armenia is one of the few civilizations in the world that used to worship a God of Writing and Science, the God Tir. The Matenadaran is a "Temple of wisdom" that attracts thousands of visitors each year. They come to wonder at manuscripts like this 27-kilogram volume next to a tiny church calendar weighing a mere 19 grams. The Echmiadzin Gospel bound in ivory covers, the Parzatumar or first Armenian printed book, the Arabic, Persian, Greek, Syriac and Latin works and hundreds of Philosophical, Legal, Medical and Astrological Treatises make up this vast collection of over 17,000 manuscripts. In addition to being a museum, the Matenadaran is a major research center for the study of Armenian culture. The Ijevan territory is at the foot of the Paytapar mountain range where we find the Monastery of Makaravank. The main church was built in 1205 using pink andesite, a volcanic rock. Its exterior decoration is simple and beautiful at the same time, with ornamental bands over the entrance portals, a sphinx and a bull being attacked by a lion. Tavush is a charming mountainous region, very rich in vegetation, where in addition to Ijevan, you can find cities as beautiful as Dilijan, the so-called "Little Switzerland". Its careful architectural design, a gorgeous tourist resort and a unique ethnological museum have turned it into a major tourist attraction. Small rural centers south of Dilijan indicate the presence of the Molokans, Russian communities grouped together in the picturesque villages of Fioletovo and Margahovit. Armenians say that heaven must be like Dilijan, and when you see its extraordinary National Park, it’s easy to see why. With an area of about 29,000 hectares and located between the mountains of Pampak, Areguni and Gugark, it is a region of great biological importance with irreplaceable beech and oak trees and fragile lakes such as Lake Parzi. Undoubtedly a visit to the Dilijan National Park is hugely gratifying. “The Pearl of Armenia” is Lake Sevan. On its northeastern shore we find the Monastery of Sevan, founded by Catholicos Mashtots I Eghivardeci and Princess Mariam. It was also the headquarters of King Ashot I. The church in the Monastery was built by St. Gregory the Illuminator on the foundations of a pagan temple. There are many beaches along the largest lake in the country. Its gentle turquoise waters are ideal for practicing water sports. There is a wide choice available to enjoy on this legendary shoreline, one of the three large lakes nicknamed "the seas of Armenia" 2,200 years ago. Heading south the islands of Lake Sevan emerge. They are vital breeding grounds for Armenian gulls and other birds such as the Bewick’s swan or the White-fronted goose. From above, the site of Noratus is very striking. It is a great necropolis filled with khachkars, a cemetery in which more than 900 tombstones of various styles, shapes and sizes are scattered around. Today, we can still find talented craftsmen throughout Armenia making khachkars and keeping alive a tradition which began in the ninth century. Lake Sevan is amazing. It takes up 10% of the country's territory and is 2,000 meters above sea level. No tourist itinerary is complete without a boat trip around this wonderful aquatic universe, whose clear waters have travelled along many different rivers. Perhaps the most attractive feature of the lake is its mountainous surroundings. But what really sets it apart is its status as a National Park, a decree passed in 1981 in order to protect more than 150,000 hectares of extremely valuable land. We arrive at Echmiadzin, the spiritual center of worldwide Armenian Holly Apostolic church and residence of the Supreme Patriarch and Catholicos of All Armenians. Its cathedral is the oldest in the world, built by St. Gregory when Armenia was the only officially Christian state. Apparently the Saint saw Christ descending from heaven with a golden hammer in one hand to show him where the basilica had to be built. And since then it has been called Echmiadzin, "the place where God’s only-begotten Son descended." There is no doubt that the alphabet created by Mesrop Mashtots was crucial in consolidating the unity of the Armenian people while at the same time it strengthened the religious bonds of the Armenian Apostolic Church. With the utmost devotion to the Blessed Virgin Mary and an unwavering loyalty to the core values of Christianity, the Armenians have managed to keep their faith intact for centuries. One of the greatest charms of Yerevan is its street markets. You can find almost everything here: decorative items, semi-precious stones, wood carvings, ceramics, brass utensils, religious objects, fine costume jewelry, musical instruments and duduk flutes all in all, an endless variety of souvenirs that reveal the undisputed artistic creativity of the Armenian people. Carpet sellers are mixed with the hardworking embroiderers and the penetrating heat coming from the blacksmiths’ forges. Ironwork may even have originated in Armenia in the fifteenth century BC, when the Hittites and the Mitani people created their powerful military empires. Far from the bustling streets, factories exhibit their rugs indoors and allow us to have a close up look at the carpet making process. The warp is made manually and after many hours of work the results are authentic works of art, unique handcrafted products in high demand all around the world. In smaller family workshops, we can often see the carpet looms alongside silversmith’s tools. Silver work is also famous in Armenia thanks to the beautiful designs inspired by mythology. Legend has it that after the flood Noah put the first vine on the slopes of Ararat and thus became the first winemaker, a very old tradition that since the nineteenth century has been enhanced by the distillation of a brandy of mild aroma and rich, buttery bouquet. Aniland’s long history of production results in a brandy capable of exceeding the very highest expectations, which is stored in these oak barrels. An evening in one of Yerevan’s luxurious restaurants, like the one at the Marriott Hotel, is an unforgettable experience. In all of them you can taste the most exquisite delicacies and enjoy warm, friendly service, two qualities that best define the pleasant Armenian character. Staying in Yerevan is also a wise choice as the modern international airport of Zvartnots is just 10 miles from the centre. In the southeastern part of the country, 2,300 km² of undulating mountaintops and meadows shape the vast territory of the Vayots Dzor province. These lands have been of great significance since long before the days of Marco Polo, a time when the Silk Road commercially linked Asia with Europe. In those distant days of medieval Armenia, crossing these mountains was an achievement which earned the merchants coming from China a well-deserved rest. The caravanserais were created for this purpose, inns as famous as this one in the Selim Pass built in 1332 by Prince Orbelian. In Syunik, the southernmost province of the Republic of Armenia, more than 200 mysterious stones emerge from the ground. This is the astronomical observatory of Karahunj, a part of the oldest temple. It is considerably older than the pyramids of Egypt. The road to Noravank is narrow but once we have navigated these bends and gorges, it all becomes worth it. You simply need to look up and admire the beauty that unfolds before your very eyes. There, in the distance, is a monastery which almost touches the sky. The Astvatsatsin, or St Mary’s Church, built with huge attention to detail. It conveys an overwhelming spirituality. Next to it there is another church, St. Karapet or St Hovhannes the Baptist Church. Its main window is crowned by a figure of God the Father blessing a crucifix and holding Adam’s head in his left hand. Jermuk comes from an Armenian word which means "hot", an appropriate name for a city with many thermal spring resorts, hotels and sanatoriums where all ailments disappear. It is a miraculous Eden thanks to the healing properties of its springs, channeled through pipes that deliver water at different temperatures. And this is the secret: piping hot waterfalls that have flowed through the cliffs of Jermuk since time immemorial. The Syunik province takes up 15% of the country´s territory. It is a mountainous area almost lacking in vegetation and characterized by plains of volcanic appearance. Highly significant is the Ishkanasar mountain region. The border it shares with the Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic is marked by the Zangezur Mountains, a mountain range whose highest point is Mount Kapoutjough, almost 4,000 meters high. Other mountain peaks like Nahapet or Ernjak contribute to create a massif which stretches for 130 kilometers. To see prehistoric petroglyphs we must climb to the top of Ughtasar Mountain. It is truly an outdoor exhibition of the traces left by the early Armenian settlers. More than 2,000 rocks decorated with animal and human figures have been scattered around the ground for 7,000 years. Petroglyphs can also be widely found on other highlands of the country, such as the Geghama and Vardenis ranges and on the slopes of Aragats. The Tatev Monastery has a truly privileged location. It is on the edge of a deep river gorge and the defensive wall that surrounds it is testament to its historical significance as in the ninth century it was the political center of the Syunik principality. The dome of the Church of St. Paul and St. Peter with its pointed 32-fold roof immediately catches the eye, as do the narrow windows and a peculiar structure attached to a side entrance. St. Gregory’s Chapel and the Gavazan’s khachkar complete the perimeter of a celestial temple. Tatev was an impregnable stronghold thanks to its surroundings. The mountains on its four sides, the deep gorges and the canyons of Devil's Bridge have strengthened its peaceful isolation. The small town of Goris enjoys an enviable tranquility. The “House Museum” of the famous writer Axel Bakunts, a very popular hotel, and healthy mulberry vodka are reasons enough to visit this town. However, the most striking aspect of Goris are the ancient dwellings where its inhabitants used to live. Carved into the rocks they appear to have sheltered pilgrims and travelers. Shikahogh was the second natural environment in Armenia to be designated State Preserve. This took place in 1958 and since then this gorgeous expanse of forest with its unique thousand year old hornbeam and oak trees, has been a protected area of 10,000 hectares of woodland. Shikahogh is also the habitat of 1,100 species of plants, 70 of which are included in the Red Book of Armenia, a register that keeps track of national biodiversity. Armenia is, as we can see, a country of contrasts. Next to expanses of greenery, we come across some of the most beautiful lunar landscapes in the world. Meghri has a significantly milder climate than the rest of Armenia and this is of huge benefit to its well-established canning industry. The pomegranate is the special fruit of these warm lands. In the nearby village of Agarak, 9 miles southwest of Meghri, is the border crossing point between Iran and Armenia, which explains the constant flow of commercial vehicles. Stepanakert is the capital of Nagorno-Karabakh, historically the Artsakh Province of Armenia, and Gandzasar is equally important because for centuries its monastery was the residence of the Catholicos of the eastern part of Armenia. This noble land reflects the cultural and historical heritage of Armenia and is a tourist destination of exceptional interest. Gandzasar means "treasure mountain" in Armenian and its monastery really is a jewel, not only because of its prominent decorative elements but because this place is regarded as a universal masterpiece in architecture. Today, this beacon of the Armenian Apostolic faith is still active. It is home to the Archbishop of Artsakh and preserves the dazzling religious intensity of monastic life. There are very few buildings on the Earth where one can sense so much peace and so much faith. God is always present here. Leaving Gandzasar means leaving behind one of the most remarkable architectural monuments in the world. The hustle and bustle of Yerevan bursts in on us again: North Avenue, Abovian and Mashtots Street, the illustrious university, the museums and the theatres. Every inch of Yerevan is worthy of admiration. The world’s most prestigious brands and stores are all here, so anyone can enjoy a pleasant few hours shopping should they choose. Visitors are welcomed everywhere with open arms at concerts and shows, in bars and restaurants, and at festivals such as the famous Kenats festival. Celestial relics; endless horizons; miracles of nature; historical cathedrals; mythological temples; sacred mountains; prehistoric enigmas; art, faith and devotion; impenetrable depths; thousand-year-old traditions; extraordinary discoveries; giant mountains covered in snow… This is Armenia, north to south and east to west. Anything you can imagine is here within its territory and all your dreams can come true in this small kingdom of wonders, a country protected by Divine Light.
