Arjin: Tibetan Secret Land

Video Statistics and Information

Video
Captions Word Cloud
Reddit Comments
Captions
An expanse of desert at an elevation of 4000 meters It looks almost like an enormous sand dune floating on water It is a natural beauty created by the harsh environment This is the Arjin Mountain Nature Reserve The region is home to some of the world's most precious animals Herds of animals dash across the desert The small animals here do not fear man Some animals now considered to be among the rarest in the world live here Nomads live side-by-side with an unforgiving nature This footage reveals the mysteries of this "golden" region hidden behind steep mountains Arjin:Tibetan Secret Land This is the Xinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region, located in inland China In the summer of 2005, a 1500km journey began from the central city of Urumqi The destination: the Arjin Mountain Nature Reserve Li Xueliang is the organizer of the trip He's an adventure photographer who's been capturing this vast wilderness on film for 20 years This is the third day of the journey Up ahead, mountain ranges are coming into view These are the Arjin mountains Arjin means gold in Uighur As the name suggests these mountains are known for their gold mines Beyond these mountains lies the Arjin Mountain Nature Reserve After driving through the first mountain path, we come to a checkpoint To prevent the poaching of wild animals and illegal gold mining a special permit is required to go any further Four hours on the road and we finally enter the Nature Reserve Mr. Li scans the great expanse of the Nature Reserve from atop a hill This plateau is roughly 4000 meters above sea level The size is about 45000 square meters The Arjin Mountain Nature Reserve lies at the north end of China's Tibetan Plateau With the Kunlun mountains to the south and the Arjin mountains to the north the Reserve lies in a basin surrounded by mountains 6000 meters high In summer, the towering mountains block the monsoons from the south As a result, the humid monsoon air does not reach the Arjin Mountain Reserve In winter, the fierce north winds bringing winter snow hit the mountain ranges and then bound off toward the east and the west The features of this land were shaped by this unique climate Creating a wall on the eastern side of the Nature Reserve are the Qimantage mountains These stark mountains consist of andesite formed by volcanic activity Many oddly-shaped rock formations encrust the plain The larger formations are five meters high The stones have been carved into these unique shapes over eons of time by the harsh hand of nature The camera finally spots some animals living in this unique natural environment This is a saker falcon Despite its cautious nature it doesn't even bother flying away at the sight of an approaching camera The other falcon standing nearby also displays no sign of fear toward humans Here comes a Tibetan fox One of the foxes slowly approaches the camera Judging from its size, it looks like it was just born this spring This is probably the first time the fox has seen a human It seems very interested in the camera It comes within two meters of Mr. Li and his camera Near a rocky cliff, a strange plant is growing It's a species of rock jasmine The flowers are densely packed together In order to retain as much water and heat as possible,the flowers cling closely to the ground Here's a plant with long hairs growing on its leaves It's a member of the lotus family and is a very rare plant that has never been seen outside this region covering the surface of the leaves not only retain water but also protect the leaves against the strong sun This is another species of lotus In this region the temperature at night plunges to sub-zero even in summer These plants have a unique capacity to adapt to such great swings in temperature Watch the surface of the leaves closely When the temperature drops, the plant brings out most of the water it has accumulated This water then freezes By sending the water outside to the surface before it freezes the plant is protecting its cells from being destroyed During the daytime when the temperature rises, the ice melts The water on the leaves is then reabsorbed by the plant The plants in this region can adapt to the extreme environment with its greatly fluctuating temperatures and survive on very little water A herd of large animals is spotted in the distance They are Tibetan wild asses There are about a hundred of them Such a large herd is rarely seen Tibetan wild asses are rare animals found only on the Tibetan Plateau the Tibetan wild ass is listed in the top category of protected animals in China This animal is much larger than the domestic donkey and weighs up to 300kg With its strong, well-developed jaw it can eat plants that are too hard for other animals to eat Two families are eating grass The mother ass is grazing and the foal is asking for milk Female wild asses usually give birth to one foal at the beginning of summer During the summer they eat large amounts of grass and store it as fat This fat accounts for 10 percent of their body weight They are preparing for the harsh winter, knowing that food will then be scarce Closely observing the herd the crew notices that they display an interesting behavior pattern When one veers one way, the others follow The behavior is similar to how a school of small fish moves together to appear like one large fish If one leaves the herd, it can be attacked by predators such as wolves And so they synchronize their movements to protect themselves from such enemies This is a vast land at an altitude of 4000 meters And punctuating it is the sight of creatures living in the often hostile environment The incessant changes in weather are another feature of the region It's raining hail The temperature, which had been close to 20 degrees Celsius until just a few moments ago The sudden changes in weather are not the only thing that are of concern During the summer, rivers and mud lay traps everywhere In the Nature Reserve Gold can sometimes be found in these rivers that appear only during the summer months Up until 10 years ago, people could be seen panning for gold but now such activity is strictly restricted These rivers and this muddy terrain paint wide swathes across the plain Why do these wetlands appear in such a normally dry area with low precipitation? The water in the Nature Reserve follows a cycle In summer, snow from the surrounding mountains melts In addition, underground ice also melts creating wetlands in the basin The water from the wetlands evaporates to form clouds and then falls back down to earth as rain The rainwater is eventually transformed back into either snow or underground ice In that way, water in the Nature Reserve basin follows a yearly cycle At the bottom of this vast basin lies a lake This lake covers an area of 536 square meters This desolate lake displays no sign of life It's salty! The water is concentrated saltwater The soil and rocks that fall into the water contain salt With the water repeatedly evaporating, the concentration of salt gradually increases As a result, the lake has become a dead lake in which no creature can survive The altitude here is over 4000 meters Because of the low air pressure and oxygen levels altitude sickness is a constant concern Oxygen tanks are a must The first groups of explorers entered this harsh land at the end of the 19th century A European team of explorers led by Sven Hedin conducted research in this area at that time However, without any major discoveries Arjin was eventually forgotten for almost a century as an "inhospitable, barren land" Interest in this region was renewed in the 1980s Research conducted by the Chinese government revealed that the region contained valuable plants and animals and an untouched natural environment unique to the high plains This is Qimantage, the only settlement in the Nature Reserve But this settlement is comprised of only four people the local government employees and an administrator of the Nature Reserve Although there are about 30 private houses here, there are currently no residents After the Nature Reserve was established in 1983 this settlement was once populated by close to 400 people However, the government encouraged the residents to move to other places in order to protect the wild animals Most of them now live in villages at the foot of the mountains Today, there are only six families with a total of 20 people living in all of the Nature Reserve We met one of the families They're collecting firewood for fuel This is Mr. Maimaidi, a nomad He lives with his wife and ten-year old son My wife and I can't read or write We want our son to learn Although they're not particularly unhappy with their life here they say they're concerned about the future of their son, who cannot go to school The sheep are owned by the local government The nomads are required to increase the number of their sheep by 35% every year Each household takes care of between 500 to 800 sheep The nomads sometimes have to count the sheep to make sure none is missing They can use a small area of the Nature Reserve to let the sheep graze This is the house where the Maimaidi family lives only during the summer Because grains and vegetables don't grow in the Nature Reserve, they have to get food by selling sheep This family spends the five months of summer here and in October, move to the pasture land to spend the winter months Leaving the Maimaidis behind, we head further into the Nature Reserve A desert suddenly looms up on the other side of the river cutting through the basin This is the Kumukuli desert It almost looks as if it's floating on water This vast desert is 75 km long and 35 km wide How can such a large desert lie next to a bounty of water? The Kumukuli desert is known as the highest desert in the world Walking on this soft sand at a high altitude where oxygen levels are low is much more exhausting than one can imagine A herd of animals is seen on top of a sandy hill They are wild yaks, animals which can only be found on the Tibetan Plateau Yaks live on grasslands at an altitude of over 4000 meters Seeing them like this in the middle of the desert is actually extremely rare After about two hours of walking, they arrive at a huge basin filled with water It's a large spring called Shaziquan Water is gushing out from the sand slope The spring is 200 meters wide The gushing water creates a stretch of river in the desert This river then flows into the wetlands surrounding the desert This is a satellite image of Kumukuli desert It shows large bodies of water in and around the desert The source of this water is believed to be the Kunlun Mountains, situated on the south side of the desert The snow accumulating on the over 6000-meter-high mountains melts, seeps into the ground and very slowly meanders toward the spring in the desert A few such springs exist in the Kumukuli desert, creating these green waterlines Far up a sand hill, a herd of yaks comes into view Such an enormous herd of close to 100 yaks is a sight rarely seen outside this region When they are not drinking or grazing, yaks stay in the desert Predators such as wolves do not chase them all the way into the desert The desert is their shelter which is also near the water, where they can find food This land, which ensures their safety and food supply provides an environment in which yaks can live in peace But why are deserts formed on highlands such as these? We found a place that provides insights into the formation of highland deserts This mountain is half-buried in sand from its base Near the mountain's summit, where the temperature fluctuates wildly water inside the rocks frequently freezes and then melts As a result, the rocks crack and after thousands of years, dissolve into sand It's believed that eventually the mountain itself will crumble and become buried in the sand Because it hardly ever rains, the sand simply accumulates In time, this mountain will also disappear into the sand Next to the desert is an extensive grassland created by the blessings of water These are black-lipped pikas They live on highlands 3000 to 5000 meters high They're about 15cm long It's now the breeding season so these little rodents have a big appetite Suddenly a herd comes running toward the grassland They're an antelope species called chirus The chirus is a rare,herbivorous animal on the brink of extinction They have the finest hair in the world and are called the king of wool Their fur can be used to make shawls even more delicate than those made of cashmere and are as light as feathers At one time, a single shawl could cost up to 15000 dollars Because of their demand, chirus were the target of large-scale poaching and their numbers suddenly plummeted Males have long, straight horns Some say they served as the model for the unicorn Here in Arjin, these rare chirus can still be found The magnificent Arjin Mountain Nature Reserve, a secluded world surrounded by steep mountains That summer, we encountered a few of the world's most endangered animal species December During this period, no one enters the Nature Reserve as the temperature in the mountains drops to 30 degrees below zero But deep inside the Nature Reserve, there was no snow They met a nomad pulling a donkey cart It's Mr. Maimaidi, the nomad we met during the summer Mr. Maimaidi is here to pick up some ice from the river He's loading blocks of ice that weigh about 10kg each onto his donkey cart Apparently, once a week he comes to this lake, 7km from his home During winter, the Maimaidis live in an area 30km south of where they live in summer This is Tayier, their 10-year old son He looks like he's grown a little The blocks of ice are carried into the tent This is where they store them During the winter season, they don't have to worry about the ice melting To protect themselves from the strong winds and cold weather, their house is built underground Their living space consists of a single room, which is about 16 square meters and contains a stove Where's the knife? I don't know What do you mean you don't know? I gave it to you the other day The mother does not seem to be around Apparently, she went to a village 400km away to give birth to a child She had a healthy baby girl and will be back in two months When my sister comes home, I want to play with her I can't wait until she grows up so we can talk together I want to get her to help out around the house Today is a special day for the nomads It's the day of the Kurban Festival, the most important festival of Islam The nomads arrive at a burial ground at the foot of a mountain where the tombs are made of stones piled on top of each other This is where the nomads'ancestors rest The elder is reading a passage from the Koran The nomads living on the plain have gathered at the burial ground to offer prayers This festival is also called the Feast of Sacrifice which calls on them to sacrifice a sheep their only source of income After the ceremony is conducted among only the men all the families gather for a feast For the first time in a long time, they have all gotten together It would be great if we could eat together like this every day Today, most of the nomads have gathered here for the occasion At this festival,sharing the precious sheep together,they think of themselves as one family Nomads living in a harsh environment These are the people who have overcome the many hardships of living in Arjin Snow has fallen for the first time in a month A herd of yaks is running across the snow With the coming of winter, the number of yaks seems to have increased Shaziquan in winter, the temperature is 10 degrees below zero Even so, not only does the spring not freeze, but water is still gushing out The desert spring flowing underground never freezes In the wetland near the spring, dried grass is visible above the snow For herbivore animals, this grass is a precious food source during winter The yaks that were in the sand hills have also come in search of grass In summer, male and female yaks break off into separate herds but in winter the males join the females and form an enormous herd They must have felt the presence of humans, suddenly take off and run back toward the desert For these animals, the desert the desert is their year-round sanctuary Some Tibetan wild asses are also grazing in the snow As usual, they have a big appetite The foals that were still suckling six months ago in summer have now grown and can eat hard, frozen grass A pair of large birds stands in the grassland where there is little snow They are black-necked cranes With only about 5,000 of these cranes left in the world, they're an endangered species during this season, black-necked cranes would be spending the winter down in the southern regions Why these two birds have not migrated is not known but this grassland seems to be providing enough of the blessings of nature to them Strong winds have abraded the surface of the land and only clumps of plants that have sunk deep roots remain Bones of a large animal are scattered around It's a dead yak There are at least 10 dead animals here It's likely that during the occasional snow storms some members of the herd lose their way and eventually starve to death Even for animals such as yaks that can adapt to life in the highlands surviving in such a harsh environment is not easy The search is on for some chirus, the rare animals spotted in the summer Moving about inside the Nature Reserve is going better than expected This is because all the places that were wet and muddy in summer are now frozen But due to bad road conditions, the car's leaf spring snaps With no parts to replace it, a rope is used as a quick fix Our search for chirus continues on foot We arrive at the grassland where chirus are sometimes spotted In the distance there are some animals that look like deer Have we found chirus? They are actually Tibetan gazelles Slightly smaller than chirus, they are an antelope species The slowly depleting food and fuel supplies allow for only a few more days of this trip At sunrise, the search for the chirus begins A herd of animals is spotted far away They are chirus They're male chirus that have grown a winter coat The area from their shoulders to their heads is covered with white fur The chirus have started their breeding season Males and females have separated into different herds A pre-breeding fight between males is taking place They try to intimidate each other with their long horns They're fighting to determine the strongest male The male that eventually wins is the only one allowed to join the female herd The female herd is waiting nearby One male has joined this herd In order to produce offspring, the male tries frantically to find an ovulating female It eventually catches the scent of a female in heat Very few people have ever witnessed the behavior of chirus in their breeding season Here on this grassland in the vast Nature Reserve an environment still remains allowing the chirus to follow their natural instincts This inhospitable and harsh environment of Arjin may perhaps be the best environment for the chirus, which are on the brink of extinction The Arjin Mountain Nature Reserve This exceptional nature is heaven on earth for these remaining precious animals True to its name, Arjin is the "golden land" for all living here
Info
Channel: undefined
Views: 704,710
Rating: 4.7034883 out of 5
Keywords: Xinjiang, Arjin Mountain, Nature Reserve
Id: iFH8UOR267Q
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 48min 18sec (2898 seconds)
Published: Sat Aug 13 2016
Related Videos
Note
Please note that this website is currently a work in progress! Lots of interesting data and statistics to come.