Apple ][ plus extreme cleaning + testing the Panasonic Monitor

well hello everyone and welcome back to adrian's digital basement this is part two in the apple do plus video series where we left off in part one the machine wasn't working and i was going to dig into repairs but it turns out i had to do something first the machine is super dirty and needs an extreme clean so this video there's a bunch of cleaning montages of me getting the machine and span and also taking a look at that little monitor that it came with so let's get right to it [Music] well when i left off in part one the apple two plus didn't look like this i've actually gone ahead and disassembled the machine and originally in the first part i mentioned i need to do a deep clean in this thing well i didn't think i would need to do it quite so urgently but let's let me show you what i found when i looked inside this a little closer pull the lid off here so when i took a deeper look inside this machine i saw something that was pretty disturbing we saw a little bit of it when i pulled the power supply off and we saw some kind of crap and dead bugs well just look at this machine here it's really dirty it's really really dirty in here i mean you can just kind of see there's like bug legs and grass and who knows what in this thing this thing feels like it probably lived a really long time in a barn and here is the motherboard and it's also pretty dirty understandably i mean the rest of the inside the computer is dirty so there's no reason to think the motherboard would be spared but like just take a look up here so there were three screws along the top of the motherboard here and those screws were very rusty and definitely some of the rust has made its way onto the motherboard now i don't think anything is ruined on this motherboard it's probably totally fine it just i'll need to do an absolute deep cleaning on this thing it's going to need the old soap and water and toothbrush scrub trick because it's pretty bad i'm going to need to work on this because it's the fault that we saw in the first part and i'd really like to get the motherboard as clean as possible for the bottom here i think if this speaker comes off it seems to be pretty well glued on there i'm going to take the vacuum and vacuum up as much as i can of this and then i'll just use a windex i guess and just give this a good scrubbing i don't necessarily need to put this in the sink although maybe i should as well i don't know and then that leaves us with the screws as i mentioned in part one some of the screws had been missing on this thing and one of the screw heads was broken off entirely i don't know if that's because it may be rusted and seized up inside the machine and then snapped off when someone was trying to remove the head but i'm going to use a dremel to try to slot the screw and pull that out i also noticed on the underside of the keyboard there are four screws that hold that on to the case and one of those screws uh was also broken the rest of the screws i did take out of this i wanted to reuse them but they were all very rusty so i've gone ahead and this was yesterday i threw them into some vinegar and this has been in here less than 24 hours as you can see by the liquid color there some really good progress is being made the vinegar removes the plating off the screws so i will need to cover these up with something to prevent them from rusting again there's the screws after a little rinsing so that's a huge difference i'm sorry i didn't record them when they were fully rusted but they they look a whole lot better now i'll put some fresh vinegar in here and leave it for another 24 hours or so and then i should be good to paint these fresh vinegar in the jar and i think now it's time to attack this motherboard i'm gonna give this a good scrubbing in the sink [Music] [Applause] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] so here are the two broken off screws there's this one that holds the bottom on some of the threads are exposed and then down here on the keyboard there's one right there as well there are metal screw inserts inserted into this case so i'm concerned they're brass but these screws might have rusted into place and they're not going to be completely fused in there but it might be difficult to get out so i think i'm going to take the dremel and i'm going to try to slot both of these because they are sticking out of the standoffs and then i will use a small flat blade to try to get them out [Music] so this is the keyboard and it's an alps skcc keyboard actually if we flip it over it's really dirty uh the pcb here says made by apple computer at least it has their name on it but i can definitely tell these are alps skcc switches and this little pcb that's on here this is normal for the apple ii this is the keyboard encoder so it takes the keyboard matrix which is all these traces that run from all the switches and it they run up to these this row of pins here and then it goes into this board which has a microcontroller i think and some you know support logic chips and then this connects to the motherboard and this sends your key presses to the computer on the apple 2e the keyboard matrix as far as more just connects directly to the motherboard this keyboard encoder portion is built into the chipset on the motherboard but on the original apple ii and apple 2 plus it was external and because the encoder converts the matrix into what the computer needs if you have a different keyboard that has a different keyboard matrix you just need the appropriate encoder board to send the apple to the right signals so whatever you know if you're pushing the space bar it thinks you're pressing the spacebar that's the encoder doing that so i presume there are different keyboards and different encoder board combinations so this keyboard is extremely dirty if you can take a look in there it's really really bad so i'm going to disassemble this as much as i can so because this has switches that are soldered onto the pcb here i don't want to submerge this in water i'm not going to wash this under the faucet i am going to take all the keys off though and i'm going to clean the base plate as much as i had to get this bug guts and filth off of here and then i'll take the encoder off and clean that up a bit as well [Music] here is the two plus keyboard with all the keys removed and oh boy that does not look good so it is weird this is an alps skcc switch keyboard so the these are some of the alp switches right here but most of the keys or actually all the keys have these kind of adapters on them which seem to slant the keys at an angle some of the adapters came off with the key which is why you see the actual regular stem other most of them stayed behind this bin here has soapy warm water in it i know the studs are kind of gone now but um i'll let these soak a little bit and then i'll attack them and actually clean each one individually oh they're just they're dirty but they're cleaning up [Music] so it's definitely not perfect but it's a lot better definitely some liquid head spilled on here at some point so it's kind of rusty here ideally i should at least try to scrape away the loose paint here and then just paint some rust converter to stop any further rusting it's not really bad the corrosion is just the paint has bubbled up but that's the base plate on the keyboard in a computer that was stored in a damp place with all the dirt and liquids probably dripped on here who knows we'll see if these switches even work and i have to switch them out [Music] well it's the next day the keys are all dried out i leave them facing up like this so any water that's stuck on the underside here will have evaporated and i have let the 303 protectant soak in on all these keys and it's actually ready for reassembly on the ipad right up here i have a photograph of the keyboard so i'm ready to go with the layout so let me time lapse install this whole thing [Music] i'm interrupting because this is the space bar and it just looks pretty horrible and in fact on the side it's sort of splotchy and it's something that actually strangely a lot of these keys have i think the top of the keys are gonna look fine but the sides have this strange splotchiness and even with magic eraser cleaning this off then 303 protectant to kind of reinvigorate the plastic give it that luster didn't seem to really work and i don't really know what's causing that splotchiness here's the y key and i'm hoping that you can see what i'm talking about there on the side see it sort of has splotches there uh this side a little bit there it's got more of it there it's like a discoloration almost i guess the plastic is just breaking down i don't know [Music] [Applause] sweet that is one cleaned up keyboard there's one thing to consider all of the alp switches have built-in springs inside the switch the recess switch though has a helper spring that is under the key that makes it harder to push so if you're pushing like enter and you accidentally bump the reset there's a less likely chance you're going to hit this i kind of remember on my apple 2 plus that i used to hit that key accidentally and i don't think you have to hold down control to push this like you do on later apples that was something they added in so even when you hit reset accidentally you don't like exit out of your program uh i'll have to see when this computer is hooked up if you have to press control but i don't think so not on this one listen to this alps ping hear that distinctive ping after the key pushes that's that's a real clue that this is an alps skcc based board let's take a quick look at this panasonic monitor now that it's actually cleaned up so it's pretty cool this is a 10 inch crt color right we determined that because it's got this color monochrome switch here on the front there are little slider controls so contrast brightness we have a volume so this obviously has a built-in speaker of some type and we have a power switch over here on the right and over here on the left there is a color and character mode which would imply that it's monochrome on the side we have probably one of the speaker grilles or maybe a vent and the speakers on the other side let's take a look at the back so there it is dual mode computer display model dts 101 120 volts looks like behind here there's a small cover you can pop off to adjust the r and the b cut off and the r and the b drive so that's kind of neat if you do that externally although look caution do not remove unless you're a service technician here are the inputs we have an in and out so a pass through 75 ohm termination or high and we have audio in so the reason for the high switch is that if you have something plugged into the input and the output you want to turn off the 75 ohm termination because say you plug two monitors into each other well if both monitors have 75 ohm termination it will basically create a dim picture on both of them so on this one if you switch it over to high and you loop through this then basically this monitor will rely on the termination that's on the last monitor in the chain and the image on both monitors will not be overly dim because generally the video input goes straight into a buffer of some type and the only thing that would cause the dimming is that 75 ohm resistor to ground which is the termination and that is when you flip that there so so if this is the only monitor in the chain you want to have 75 ohm engaged but if you are counting two you would switch it to high and here's a date code june 1984 for the manufacturing so yeah it's a good age this little monitor then here's that model number again dts 101-001 and there's a chassis number nmx k102a i almost forgot to point out it's made in japan all the best stuff is made in japan and on the back here we have a nice slew of controls as well there's the color and the tint v centering h centering there's no size controls i notice over here there's a screw terminal for h hold then there's a service toggle for service mode or normal that would typically disable the vertical deflection and give you a horizontal line across the center of the picture allow you for adjusting the drive and the cutoffs and then the screen control and a focus control externally accessible those will probably be on the flyback transformer oh and there's actually a v size and a v hold control there and a sharpness control okay so i'm going to connect up my signal generator to the input there it is termination is enabled turn this around and plug in the mains power let's power this up see if anything explodes all right we've got high voltage a little static on the screen everything sounds completely normal no abnormal sounds coming out of this thing oh look and there is a picture oh let's see here okay adjusting the contrast and the brightness sweet okay well the pots are a little scratchy obviously let me move them back and forth a few times i'll definitely need some deoxide in these slider pots all right so this is the contrast control interesting it actually is adjusting the contrast a lot of tvs have what's labeled as contrast but all that's actually doing is adjusting the white level and the brightness control adjusts the black level so if we set this contrast in the middle and i move the brightness you may be able to see in the camera that this section down here now becomes visible so like it's brought the entire black level up it brightens everything at the same point but that's what the brightness control is doing but on this tv if i turn the contrast all the way down notice this is now kind of gray and everything else is as well if i turn the other way this gets darker and everything else gets brighter so it actually is working like a true contrast knob which is fascinating but these work together to accomplish the same thing well i'm quite amazed that the picture looks pretty good i'm just adjusting things on the back here so let's see here what does this one do that must be sharpness this one is tint and there's the color oh very scratchy color control i'd say based on the way these color bars look there's probably a little bit of adjustment i'll should do on the red and the green drive it seems like the blue is maybe a little too low or actually to cut off but uh yeah and then this is the horizontal side placement and the vertical placement nice checking out convergence it's looking great no particular issues a little out of convergence on the side but color crts of this age is extremely common that's the case so what this test pattern does is it's showing vertical lines and they're wider and further apart and they get closer and closer and closer together until over on this side it's very high bandwidth i think up to six megahertz so that means they're very close together so you might see on the camera some colors here and this is happening because they are basically overlapping with the color carrier on ntsc and you get these bands but if i push the little button on the bottom here it should disable color and it does and i'm tweaking the sharpness control on the back so that's all the way down and as we turn this up now sharpness can be called peaking where it artificially adds some extra peaking where basically it it ramps up the difference between light and dark makes vertical lines appear sharper and that's why when i turn it up this gets brighter here because it's artificially you know creating sharpness where there isn't actually a need to do that now one thing i'm noticing is the crt has a very high dot pitch and that means that the size of the rgb dots on here are quite large now for watching regular color pictures totally fine but what that means is this screen will not look good in 80 columns at all you just it won't be very sharp even when you push the monochrome switch here to to engage the high resolution mode it still won't look that good and that's just that's just the fact that this crt is just not a very high resolution now the one really cool benefit of this switch if we turn it on to color mode and we switch back to color bar so there's color bars if you push this if you're using an apple 2 and say it's a graphical screen that's designed with mostly text on it you'll get a lot of color fringing that purple and green lines all over the letters on this monitor you just push that button and it gets rid of all of that of course you'll have a black and white picture and probably a little extra sharpness as well i'm not positive if it's actually removing some of the filtering that you need for a color ntsc signal now people may be familiar with the apple color 2e monitor that monitor has a similar switch to this but that uses a very high resolution crt so 80 columns looks great on that screen when you push that button it makes it really high resolution in fact that monitor when the color signal is killed when the computer outputs a pure monochrome signal it automatically turns on the high resolution mode and removes all of the filtering on the luma signal that a color screen normally has which produces incredibly sharp image when you use color mode if you don't filter it you get these dot patterns and stuff like that but i have a feeling that this screen along with pretty much any other ntsc color screen i've ever seen when you send a pure monochrome signal into it it still doesn't disable the filtering circuitry and you always get a soft picture even when there's no color the only way around that like stay on a commodore 1702 monitor or on any other commodore or 1084 stuff like that to get a high resolution monochrome ntsc signal you have to put it into the yc luma chroma input and only connect it to the y which is the luma signal so it will be black and white and high resolution because that input does not have that filtering on it but the regular composite input has permanent filtering on it there's no way to disable it but hey this monitor works and it works really well considering the age i just love the compact size let me just put a floppy disk here compared to the screen size just for comparison and you'll notice that it's a pretty little monitor and even when we look at the size it's also not that big thumbs up you may have noticed that there's some paint on my hands here and that's because outside i am painting those screws with some rust converter and unfortunately the nozzle on my can has kind of given up the ghost so while i was trying to get it working i ended up getting paint on my hand so you can just ignore that that's not a problem i i haven't cut myself for once so with the case all taken care of it is now time to try to troubleshoot and repair this apple 2 motherboard it's been about 24 hours since i washed it and wow does it look absolutely stunning this thing looks absolutely brand new i cannot believe how how good it looks now a little bit of elbow grease with soap and water and a good washing and it looks amazing just take a look at this thing look at it i'm blown away i i honestly couldn't tell that this thing wasn't sitting in a box its entire life never having been used i mean look it's just it's fantastic there's no visible corrosion anywhere all the chips look nice and clean there's no dirt it's all shiny yeah i'm kind of gushing but i'm i'm really proud of just how nice this thing looks now before we get started one thing i was trying to do is trying to determine when this motherboard was made now as far as i can tell and i thought i saw a mark on here somewhere that this is the rfi version of the motherboard it says right here apple 1979 apple ii main logic board rfi oh yeah that's where it says rfi there is a part number 820 044-d i'm not sure what years the this particular rfi board was being made but i know that this was made up until the end of the apple ii plus line now judging by the fact it says 1979 there probably makes me believe that this was the one that you know was made for the majority of years of the apple ii now since most ics are in sockets it's hard to know what people have been switching around this thing because clearly this computer been opened you know instead there were broken screws and missing screws so i don't know what's original on here and what's been changed now there are soldered ics there's one here one down here and one here now unfortunately these two ics don't have date codes but this one up here by the i o over here it does in addition though i actually went through every ic on here and anyone that had a date code i wrote it down on a piece of paper here's what i found the soldered ic has 1982 day code 19th week so maybe that's when this board was made or like slightly after that but then look at the spread of dates of these ics here's 1978 so anything that was from then i put in a column there and there's 1983. i think the majority of stuff has 1981 date codes when i put dots after it that meant i found multiple chips with the same date code exact same day code right but i don't know 81 82 are the majority but there's a good amount of chips from 80 there's three or four from 79 one from 78 and then one from 83. so what exactly is going on here and when was this motherboard made the power supply if you recall when i took that apart had a date code of sometime in 1983 but the apple ii plus wasn't made any longer in 83 at least as far as i can tell and this power supply was also used in the apple ii e so it's quite possible that this one came out of a 2e and was put into this case and maybe this whole computer was used as like a test bed and people swap chips constantly in here and that's why it's got this crazy assortment of chips from all these different eras in fact up here by the cpu this is the 1897's these are sort of like bus drivers in a way this one is from 80 this one's from 82 46 and this one's from 1978. what the heck why would there be three different chips in here i just do not believe that apple would be sticking 1978 ships into a motherboard that was being manufactured that just doesn't make any sense to me now i think i had mentioned that i have never worked on an apple ii plus in my life i had one as a kid but other than opening up and checking out the cards were inside it never had a fault so i never need to troubleshoot it not that i even knew what i was doing back then i i was a kid right and i i didn't really learn about electronics until later so i am not familiar with the normalcy so if you're used to working on apple 2 pluses and you've seen a lot of them and you think that maybe this insanity here with this assortment of dates is normal please let me know in the comment section below i will be fascinating to hear some stories there is one thing all of the ram chips except for the one that goes to the language card are apple branded and they are the same exact parts they are nec chips none have date codes so i'm not sure when these are from but none of these i guess have been swapped out in the crazy life of whatever this machine had anyhow let's plug the retro tink into the output of the apple uh power supply is in power's on it's connected let's turn this on and see if we still have that same exact fault which i completely expect it'll be exactly the same we got nothing interesting okay so remember with troubleshooting the first thing to do check the power now i did check the power originally we saw that it had output had video so uh this seems worse than it actually was so let me turn this quickly on at the multimeter there i'll just check power on one of these bypass caps 5.0 volts looking good remember i had said that i thought the 5.2 i saw on the power supply would probably drop down once it was under load well sure enough that happened all right in my effort check power this is one of the ram chips the pin out i am going to check for the minus five and the plus 12 and plus five on the ram chips make sure that those look good as well on the apple ii the chips are mounted with pin one facing me so it helps when you're looking at something like your phone flip it around so it's in the correct orientation so this should be minus five minus five point three it's a little high to be honest but it's probably gonna be okay and there we have 12 volts which is 11.8 so the voltages seem okay if not slightly high i think now i need to bust out the oscilloscope well i'm sorry to say that's going to be it for this video the machine is nice and clean now and i feel okay touching it i really don't like working on things that have dead bug pieces everywhere so the machine is working seemingly worse than in part one so it's gonna be in part three that i'm really gonna dig into fixing this machine and getting it running perfectly so i hope you enjoyed this video if you did i'd appreciate a thumbs up but if you didn't you know what to do hit that thumbs down button hit that subscribe button to subscribe to my channel of course the bell icon if you maybe want to be notified when google feels that you can do that which is pretty much never and of course put your comments and your suggestions in the comment section below and that's going to be it stay healthy stay safe and i'll see you next time [Music] goodbye

Channel: Adrian's Digital Basement

Views: 45,096

Keywords: Apple II+, vintage computer, retro computer, washing, extreme cleaning, soap and water, panasonic monitor, Panasonic DTS101, Panasonic CT1113, CT1113, DTS101

Id: 1iCLdbF1sgw

Length: 29min 24sec (1764 seconds)

Published: Sat Oct 10 2020