Hello friends! In this video I will not pour water, it will be essentially. I want to anodize 3 of these housings for jet engines. I will do it for the first time and I will comprehend this business from scratch. That is, I never did it. Just read a little and I will try to do it right away. Need to prepare collect all the necessary components. Well, you see how I do it. To begin, let me show you what it is. First there are three buildings. Secondly there is paint, in which we will subsequently paint. This paint is very high quality, very good. And she gets divorced to 7.6 liters. You can store for a long time, about a year, if diluted in distilled water. This is a special paint for anodizing. A friend sent me from America. Therefore, where to get I do not know, I will not give references. This time. Further. I bought electrolyte for batteries. Ingredients: sulfuric acid diluted with water. As I understand it, there is about 40% sulfuric acid. I read on the Internet that you need to dilute one to one with distilled water. That is to lower the concentration sulfuric acid twice. I bought a little water ... It is necessary to dilute the paint and to make the electrolyte. We will fix this because this is still far away. Need to create a bath. Bath can be plastic, but must be lined with aluminum sheets from the inside, so that the current is evenly distributed when anodized. * The inscription - Although no one does this, it may not be necessary. But the article is written that way * Further. I still need a lead electrode. Lead electrode I have nowhere to take. Therefore, I will get it from a conventional battery. I'll break it and melt it. Slightly sent on the street. Now I will warm it up on my stove. And I'll pour it into clean tara. Wow, how it sweat. Unfortunately, there is no more suitable container. And here the process has already begun. Now we will fill. It feels like a little. I will try to stretch. Rushed. It is not clear what happened. Will not work. I set the machine level profile and I will fill it, make the bushes. So no lead can not be saved ... Gone hot. Not going to flow. Now we will help spread. Good. I think this band is enough for me. Take out. Sits tightly. It turns out the easiest way to do this. This strip turned out. I did not expect it to turn out so well. All uniform in thickness, from battery lead. This is very encouraging. Need to move on. As a bath for anodizing I will use a cut bottle from under the water. The bottle was ten-liter, I will install a modernized pan in it. It will serve as a current distributor, as I understand it, so that the current is uniform throughout the diameter. Further. From the very lead made the cathode. Minus is applied to the cathode. Hard thing turned out. Lead here. Here is a thick-walled stainless steel ring. Made of stainless steel, because you never know, suddenly it will somehow corrode with electrolyte, if ferrous metal. Here are the centering ears and screwed all stainless steel bolts. Washers are ordinary. It is advised that the electrode area be 2 times larger than the anodized part. I got about 1.5 times more. Because so much lead was not enough. That's what it turns out guys. So far we have this design. Inside will be installed part and it will be fed a plus. And it will be boiled. With the process technology, I have not yet decided. Aleksey threw off a technology suitable for this paint. But it somehow contradicts what is written on our internet. That is, in fact, one article is only which is printed by all sites. I no longer found. We need to read some specialized books. In this video I will try to figure it out. So, remember: here comes a minus. And the detail is served plus. In general, you can begin to stir the electrolyte. By American technology the electrolyte must be mixed with distilled water 3 parts water 1 part electrolyte. According to one of our own technology, 1: 1 is divorced. In fact, here it is possible to vary both temperature and solutions, and many, many things. There is a lot of technology. I need to naturally start somewhere. So try a weak solution because it fits our paint here. I will not put the finished part right there. Need to experiment. And you need to learn something to protect areas that do not need to be anodized, because anodizing creates a layer and since I have here some places where there is a dense landing, then it can simply stop stooping and everything is done in one install, I would not like something like this then bore. When diluting the electrolyte, either sulfuric acid, one must always remember that it is the acid either electrolyte must be added to water, and not vice versa. Be sure to use eye protection! Because if acid splashes into your eyes, you won't be well. Well, just in case to have a supply of water, so that you can quickly wash your hands, rinse eyes. In general, this is a very serious matter, guys. You need to add acid to the water, or electrolyte to water. So let's try to do it. At the same time we will check the bottle for durability. Because I will be used with similar material. Pour distilled water. I will make a concentrate: 3 parts water 1 part electrolyte. So. 2 liters is. He took the water deionized. It is such a desirable to use. This water is both distilled and deionized. Here we do another part. 3 liters of water is. Pour a liter of electrolyte. Yes, there is one liter here. Open up. Wearing glasses. Let's try. Electrolyte is not so very dangerous, it is not a pure acid, but still need to do right. You see, the process is underway. Still advised to stir. It seems to be all right, nothing sprinkles. Wow! It went boiling. I remember in my childhood dad made with pure sulfuric acid himself, then he had it all very hot. But he did the right thing, so the procedure was successful. In fact, we have 4 liters of electrolyte for anodizing. Be sure to sign on all sides as a water bottle and it looks like water. God forbid tea to make such an explosive mixture or coffee ... In this bottle, you can dilute the paint. It is necessary to measure 1/8 part somehow. Let's see what's inside. Here it is a dose per liter of paint. Now we will breed. Dry powder pour inside and see what happens. Some hellish mix turned out. It is necessary to stir very cool then it will still need to be heated to 60 degrees Celsius. More precisely, from 50 to 60 to better saturate. That's what we did. This kind of paint, guys. It obviously has a different color, but on aluminum, I think it will be what we need. I wonder when the foam settles? A lot of foam came out after stirring. That is why, apparently, advised to stir in a small bottle first. And then add color to the big one. water volume But I think this foam will settle, it will not go anywhere. Go ahead. To protect the parts bought Kapton tape wider. I have a few pieces of scotch from Alexey. But one is too thin, the other is too wide. The adhesive of this adhesive tape must withstand the acid in the electrolyte and not dissolve. I need to protect some parts of the parts from anodizing. Go ahead. I took a laboratory power supply. Here is such a handsome man. He has voltage from 0 to 30 volts. I hope this will be enough. And regulated current from 0 to 5 amps. There are different gradations, you can adjust it as you like. The required current will still need to be calculated. Well, we are already starting to pour acid to our wonderful reactor. I think just this volume will be enough. For the experiment I will take this detail. I just processed it, it is aluminum, not duralumin. This is some kind of soft aluminum. I want to try it first, because it is ready nice detail for one of my stuff. I grinded with fine emery paper and grinned with scotch-bright. Not polished. Although it is recommended to polish. Now we need to create some kind of (here) confident contact with the part, so that it can be hung in the center of the device. I'll use the kapton tape, to protect part of the surface. Let's see how it reacts. For me, this protection is very, very important. I do not know why advised to wash first in hot, then in cold water. For me, this is some kind of fierce mystery. Well, let's see, we try on everyone. To begin with, I won't wash anything at all. That's just processed sandpaper on a lathe. And rubbed with a clean rag. Made spring aluminum contact. If you crush it he is not going anywhere. He's bursting open and rigidly in contact with the walls. The positive electrode looks like this, guys. That is, it is the part itself and the conductor through which we will give a plus. I thought that for the area of this detail 1 amp should suffice. I dip in the bath and connect the power supply. Disgusting wire came with a power supply. Not only are there such bad little crocodiles, he is also very hard plastic. It will be necessary to redo it on the wires with silicone insulation. They are very soft and pleasant to use. I put everything on a minimum - current and voltage and run. Such thin streams began the process. For some reason, gas is actively released on lead at the negative electrode. For some reason I thought that should be the opposite. Maybe I confused something in the power supply, because everything seems to be right here? Plus on the part, minus the electrode. Made one mistake. Put the screw that secures the central electrode to the stainless steel part. For some reason, all the anodizing went into it and the process on aluminum did not begin. Replaced with a titanium screw and everything seems to be gone. You can see the bubbles coming up from the part and dvizhuha went. It would seem, guys, some small cog, but the voltage rose from 3 to 7 volts, and the current dropped from 900 to 160 milliamps. We must now somehow all this stuff and boost current Bubbles rise, everything is fine. Increased current is still up to 1 amp. Voltage is now 19 volts. As the oxide film grows on the part, the voltage will have to increase to keep the same current because the resistance of the parts will increase. For the oxide film - it works like an insulator. The lower the electrolyte temperature, the oxide layer will be more dense and solid. But it will be more difficult to paint it, because it will be more dense. To easily paint a part, warmer anodizing is used. That is, the cold is from +5 to -10 degrees Celsius must be maintained. But warm is higher, up to about 20 degrees. I now have somewhere here 10-15 degrees in the room, respectively, the electrolyte has this temperature. Guys, interesting topic. Now I tried to paint on the light. I wanted to see what color it would still be in the light. But the paint was not easy. My mega flashlight enlightened with a mega powerful LED. 100 watt flashlight. Divorced paint guys it doesn’t show through at all. in general is not translucent. Here it is. That is exactly the paint, apparently, should be used. And since aniline dyes are advised everywhere. I do not know where to take them. My paint is specialized. Maybe this is it. It's been about half an hour. Paint bottle set to heat and poured hot water. Let stand up, heated. You need to heat up to 50-60 degrees Celsius. The water bath did not work to warm up, so I heat up the stove. I heat and control my device. Already 42 degrees. Stayed around 10 degrees and You can start to paint. All the foam has dissolved. When I just stirred, it was very much like beer. It is actively dissolved at temperature. It can be seen that hot. We turn off the power supply, that's enough. It is seen that the gray detail. Clearly visible. What is it like to compare? It can be seen that she has grayed out. Let's try painting, guys. Very very interesting what happens. Just the depth was the one that is necessary. Oh, turns green. Leave for 10 minutes. Well guys, let's see what was the first "pancake", lumpy or even very normal, "tasty." Here it is detail. With the heat of the heat ... Of course the color is saturated, no doubt. But about something a little went wrong. What is it with blue. Here it is a little greener, look more like. It still needs to be boiled, and then you can already remove the tape (adhesive tape), watch what happened under the tape. Boil need to close the pores and the paint was sealed forever in the oxidized layer. The can of water is already on its way, it is boiling. Wow! Burst the bank. Just started the process and the bank burst. Yeah. Let us examine the construction and consider more closely. I made a shaft of duralumin, roughly d16t. Color turned out like this. In my opinion more pleasant. Well, this part is aluminum. I do not know what kind of alloy, with a blue color turned out. It also seems to be good interesting. But I wanted to achieve that's it salad green. Let's now see what we have under the golden film. I already see that everything is normal there. Here it is protection how it works. Almost no step, I do not feel anything. Just a little bit she was boiling and layer a feeling that was fixed. Cool of course, guys. I have long dreamed of learning how to anodize. This was the first step. It seems to me that it is not for nothing that they advise polishing. Here, as it was brilliant, it remains And this detail was matte and I cleaned it with Scotch Bright and It is so matt and left. And we found out that in this mode, the step is not formed. That is, the anodized layer turned out very thin. And we found out that the inside is also anodized. I had questions about this, whether it would anodize there or not. That is, if I don't want the energy to be spent on the inside, I need to somehow isolate it. The experiments do not end there, because I did not achieve the desired beauty. Prepared a new sample. Half turned diamond cutter. Well, as I could. I have a particularly small feed on the machine and there is no way. It is also very cool, but compared to polishing, it is very weak. I polished this area. Washed in acetone and you can already try. At this time, the workpiece has similar dimensions with a jet engine, more precisely with the body. And made from the same material from which I sharpened the body on a jet engine. In this regard, if it turns out well here with the settings that I will enter now, then I can repeat them on the case. I would not want to polish the guys. Because polished aluminum is not an easy thing. You need to warm up a lot. Especially not just this on thin-walled details, because you still need to press hard and I will polish the body for a long time. Well, here are the settings. Wrote: "anodizing in American." This manufacturer of this paint recommends anodizing exactly like this: One part battery acid + three parts distilled water. We have it. The cathode is better lead. He must be big. I have one to one. Although it was necessary two to one. Unfortunately, how much lead was not found. The solution should be 20-25 degrees Celsius and it is desirable that the fluid is constantly circulating. I'm mixing up. There were no problems with this. Everything was fine. The current is calculated on the basis of 1 ampere per 200 square centimeters. That is 1 amp per 2 square decimeters. 1 hour in the bath to keep. Then rinse in a bath with distilled water. You can add a little soda to the water. And then in the paint is warm. After boiling for 15 minutes already in ordinary water. I counted, it turned out 170 square centimeters with somewhere 0.9 amps current. The current will be essentially the same as when anodizing the last part. Now we are waiting for an hour, here you can see that the process is actively going Bubbles rise. The time is right. This time, the paint is heated in a saucepan. Heat up to 55 degrees. I will wash in distilled water with soda. A little soda. It is seen that the detail is a little gray. No longer so brilliant. What an anodizing layer turned out. Flush. Apparently soda is needed to deactivate the acid. And in the paint. I hope it will be beautiful. I really hope that everything will be beautiful. Okay, we omit for a moment and look at the end. After a minute it looks like this. It looks very interesting, light color. So, dipping. We paint further. It took almost two minutes. Light awesome guys. Here it dries, the color is no longer as good. In my opinion a very great color. Let's take a little more, it will be more saturated. The main thing that he did not become too dark. Here is the first option. Well, obviously he is not so beautiful like this one. Obviously not so. When done by technology, then it works well. Already looks like this color. Super. I think I will make one engine block in this color. I'll tell you a secret, Alexei ordered more paint there and, Probably, when she comes, I'll make the other corps in a different color. That is, all engines will be colorful. On the second attempt, it turned out and needs to be polished. See, here it is polished, it turned out great here And even from under the diamond cutter, somehow it is not beyond fiction. Do not sweat my camera? Let's omit the paint. We do not mind. I do not like in this original way that when anodized a thin film is formed. And I would like a very hard and dense film like shagreen. After boiling poured paint, there were some grains. Some sort of sediment. If it is smeared, then it is like with some kind of blue. See what happens? Unclear. I tried to leave this residue in the pan, so as not to pour it again in the container. I read that there may be grains and paint need to be filtered. Even such a high-quality paint, too, it turns out you need to filter. Miracles do not happen. At this you can just stop. I'll try to fix the solution now, boil it in the pan. In the same pot, I will wash it. To close the pores to fix the paint. When boiling in water, the paint began to fall out and the blank turned white. Therefore, I have her again put the paint solution and saturate again. Probably need to boil the paint? It's hard to be a budding chemist. I went through the process, even once the “milk ran away” from me. Formed foam. Now, probably, the same thing will happen. It is necessary to regulate the flow of gas in the cylinder. The result was great! And you guys probably think that this is all? But not quite. I have not tried our domestic, more concentrated way. And the method at a lower temperature. And I would like to achieve such a structure. Do you see? Here, it is as if overflowing and has such a peculiar roughness. Here the layer is much more. Well, here the layer is just the thinnest. He absolutely does not overlap anything. But beautiful, you can not argue. So what are we doing now? I will add to our electrolyte a little more electrolyte, concentrated, raise acid concentration doubled. It will be one to one, and it will be about one and a half to about. Although now one to three. In general, great raise, and will produce electrolysis at low temperature. I did not specifically include the stove. Here in the basement 7 degrees, at the top 5 degrees. Here at the top we will do it. Carved a few beautiful patterns, to try to play around in time and play with different colors. I want to try a more consumer paint. And suddenly it will stain? Immediately all four charge and drove anodize. I add acids. It is evident that the reaction went. At the same time, due to the fact that the level has risen, the area of the electrodes touched by the electrolyte became higher. Which is also useful for anodizing. I collected the package. Here are 4 details for four different experiments. Dip in the solution and proceed. Everything is centered, everything is fine. Gave 2 amps and the process went. I fastened the bag, otherwise I already feel that my lungs dissolve in acid ... In general, of course, you need to air everything very well here. But I don't have a hood yet. So I closed the bag and beat the pair. While the process is underway, I went for a new paint. Because this American is all good, guys. But where is it to take our man? We need some kind of easier option. In general, aniline dye should be used. I hope, what is it It does not say what kind of dye it is. This is a dye for fabric. Different colors can be bought at the hardware store. I did not expect that I could find so easily. Because on the Internet, no matter how much I searched, I searched and on Ali, I searched around, I was sure that everything was there, but I could not find it. Here are the colors: burgundy, yellow, yellow, black, blue, green, brown and red. Already getting enough sleep. I also drove to the pharmacy and took some other ingredients. First, this is such an ampoule methylene blue solution. He is very blue, very beautiful. The solution of diamonds. We all know that. 1% water based. Well, manganese. Let's experiment, guys, with well-known dyes. Already a couple of hours of anodizing have passed, so far I have not seen a large layer It is already time to plant paint, because we will soon paint. Water for this paint also need to be heated. Put on the stove. In the meantime, a small amount of sleep. It is written that the color is yellow. That's so beautiful. Well, now add warm water. It is written that another 5-6 grams of soda add. Baking soda seems to fit. Now we will do everything according to the instructions I think the bad will not advise. I hope not for nothing that I added soda Became jelly. After two hours of anodizing, I removed two rings. One top turned dark gray, and the other three light gray. I do not know what it is connected with, it is possible that there was a stainless steel nut here. A stainless steel is very affected. Although she did not touch the electrolyte, it affected. In general, now I wash in a solution of soda with water, good and will be painted in soda solution and just in water. My task is to wash these parts well. I divided them, they stuck together. See some kind of red bloom? Well, on the one that is darker, inside it is visible, generally blackened. Apparently, something could be inside there. I did not clean the inside, made a small mistake. Maybe because of this, it turned out dark gray. The rest is light gray without any transition. Guys, try to paint. It took a couple of minutes. Somehow uneven it is painted. Some kind of stains incomprehensible. Maybe somehow I handled it wrong? Blue does not want to be painted. Now for checking the perch into the green. Once again I try to paint in blue. Some plaque is present. But he is so so ... It looks like I overworked these parts, because here are others that have been anodized longer, they are somehow worse soaked in paint. But then, I think, the layer is very thick, very durable. Continue the experiment and we need to paint. Yellow color is obtained by the way. I fix it here already. That's how it turned yellow. He also shines. Covered with paint, it means that this paint can be used. But it is necessary, probably, by the past technology to do. I didn’t like this technology, some kind of super hard film. Похоже здесь пористость плохая, here It is also porous, in general, the film porous turned out. It is cleaned easily. There was no dense anodizing layer. I wonder how here? It seems to be denser. And now I wonder how this green turned out? Well, here, as it were better. One of the rings lay in green paint. Lay long and it became actually black for some reason. You can see how much it affects, if you do not comply with the technology. And this one turned blue for some reason. I lay down, became blue, really blue. Some specks are white. Spotted such a surface guys crazy. When I pulled it out, it wasn't like that. This I tell you for sure. Another little ring was also omitted in green. Again, some blue has become. Very, very strange. You can do it like this and like this. If you rub a beech stick, nothing is peeled off. And it may seem that the layer is weak. This is a knife from the speed cutter, it is sharply very sharp. He can clean off any layer, even the factory one that I showed you is blue. That is quite calmly cleans. Well, this thing is a funny thing. Conclusion: color is very dependent on technology. This is done by the paint manufacturer's technology. And everything else is done by intuitive technology. It is strange that this is very beautiful happened. Well, yellow, in general, is also not so bad turned out. I think if I'm on this technology did, then everything would turn out all gorgeous. We are still guys, Zelenka did not try and potassium permanganate. Manganese should be nice too. But this is real life has gone. I don't even know if that is enough. Manganese color is crazy, it should be cool. Our laboratory is expanding. Additionally, I bought hydrochloric acid. The truth is not written what kind of concentrate here. I will need it to lighten the blanks, because I decided to poison them. I will try to poison in the "mole". Here the alkali and oxide film should be dissolved. После травления дюраль может почернеть и ее нужно осветлять в соляной кислоте. Weak solution will need to be made. Bought more distilled water, because it spent dissolving its paints. Another is acetic acid. I read that it is necessary to add it to the paint. It will be necessary to donate some. I already added soda, because the instructions were written. But I do not like what turned concentrate. What is it muddy, incomprehensible. Soda is not needed. Now we will charge some more aluminum rings and we will try to anodize. We breed "mole". It is undesirable to plant in aluminum containers, because it must dissolve it. Поэтому буду не в кастрюле,а в пластмассовой таре. Какое- то оно гранулированное. It would be necessary to warm it. Heated degrees to 40 and let's get a couple of rings that failed try to pickle. Time. Well, here it is washed away. Two. Because I did not fix it and blue paint washed all. It is evident that the process has begun. This makes me happy. So the asset is what you need. Tea. The main thing is not to confuse anything here. So guys, go flakes. The entire anodized layer disappears and we continue to slack off. It is with this technology should be the same rough uniform surface. Somehow the reaction went very violently. Here it is. We poison further. Blanks turned black. Carved another dough stock. Half pickle, and half leave as is. Let's see what will happen. These will move to the water. Acid is not yet divorced. Have a ... violent reaction. Well, here I am going through this too. So once Let it be poisoned. We still will dissolve some hydrochloric acid, five percent recon. For now enough. Poured water with soda, because I can not understand what it is for. What was the meaning of it? Well, here we pour hydrochloric acid. Omit this thing here. But rinse first. This is black, friends. Black-black, and do not need to anodize) Now we omit the acid. Beginning to actively bubble, should lighten up. Detail prepared for anodizing. I will try again in the American way. I reduced the concentration of electrolyte. And the current will decrease. This one disc will be anodized by one amp. In water distilled and washed and forward. The small details that were poisoned for a long time turned out to be really interesting. They have a brilliant color and they are a little in the pimple. You can clearly see small little dots, as if shells are present. I think these particular parts should be anodized as they should be. Already looking forward to. But while he charged a big one. We look, that from the big will turn out. It takes an hour to pass. The etched part requires less stress, чтобы развивался ток. Previously, 0.9 amps-19 volts was needed. Now, see? Much less and the process goes more rapidly. At this time, try to paint in a solution of manganese. I already threw it, now add acetic acid because you need to do this. I will add a little. What she gives, I do not know. Write the guys in the comments. Maybe I did it for nothing? Everything as usual. Nothing unusual. We heat up. This time, the soda did not add. I did not feel any difference. Felt only worse. Has ceased to be impregnated. And omit the paint. -Did you see that? -Had Let stand. The feeling that is not soaked. In Manganese did not want to be painted. So everything seems to be beautiful. But it is clear that everything is washed off. Let him lie down in the water. Now we will breed another paint and paint it. So, well, now Zelenka (solution brilliant green) Okay guys! Are you kidding? I took Zelenka in the first-aid kit. It seems to be fine. Then I touched her. The whole question is, how will it work out? Now I take this pot and put it on the stove. How many times have I tried dipping into hot boiling water, anyway, part of the paint is washed away and some kind of pale detail is obtained. Therefore, I will boil and close the pores right in the paint. So you can ensure that all the paint will remain in the details and everything will be fine. It will be rich and beautiful. Generally fire. Nothing added to the paint: neither soda nor acetic acid. Just mixed paint. These supplements, it is not clear what they give. I did not see, did not believe in their power. That's what happened, friends. You do not see what it is so beautiful. I just took him out of the water. If you wipe it ... By the way, check if there are traces? Traces do not remain, boil normally. That is, the pores are all closed and the paint is inside. When fully dried, it became matte here. Here is brilliant, but the color is not so beautiful as I would like, as here here, for example, on the wet. I think it all depends very much on paint. Because the green turned out fine. Especially where polished. Here from under the chisel, just like here, here this place is also from under the lathe chisel. Well, here I was dressing. See what happened? The surface is more matte and less beautiful. Cleaned the workpiece and again charge for anodizing. Instead of 50 minutes, anodized 15 minutes. And I make the paint in the same paint. Oh, boil already! It turned out much lighter. So what do you guys do? The color of the resulting part is very dependent on the duration of anodizing. See how blonde is that? Only 15 minutes anodized. 50 minutes - already turns very dark. The paint was called Bordeaux. And it turned pink. Anodized all the rings again. It was a long poisoning, it was fast. Now we are in our classic green color and roll up see the difference. Got a very pale lime color. It is seen that a little bit different. One more yellow. This is where more was etched, a little color plays because of this. Since I still have two samples, I made the solution stronger. Here, about 5 times the paint is more than in another bottle. Let's see what happens. Will she be more saturated? With increasing concentration, the color did not become more saturated, it became different! Instead of light green, he became a kind of blue-green. Such interesting results. It turns out that the saturation is entirely dependent on the thickness of the anodized layer !!! Here it was longer and it was painted more deeply, more such saturated color turned out. He began to prepare the body of a homemade micro jet engine. One of them is anodized to green. Since the whole thing began to turn out, let's do it! Where was the etching I do not really like. But where the shiny surface is much more interesting. Prepared by the body. Well he mirrored, polished. It was very difficult to do this. Aluminum is hard to polish. Problems may arise at any time and may again become matte. Well, more or less polished guys. Better failed. With those pastes that I have, I have one version of goi paste and several options for automotive paste. Automotive body polish paste, she began to mate him. So I had to polish the goi paste again. That is, you need a cleaner paste. I will not poison the body. Wipe with acetone and immediately will anodize. inside he protected with kapton tape (adhesive tape), to reduce the surface, and so here is not to anodize too much. Current 0.7 amp, maintained automatically by adding or reducing the voltage. Put the timer. Per unit of area is obtained 1 amp per 200 square centimeters. Here is 150 centimeters of surface area. Therefore, 0.75 amps. Electrolyte temperature of 17 degrees. While there is a process, a small review of what I needed to master anodizing. Got a few pots under different ingredients. I got 3 pieces. I do not understand where the third? Here it is one more. Next, purchased hydrochloric acid. It is diluted in two containers. Well, there is still a concentrate 2 bottles. Its consumption is small. The smallest of all that was. Further. "Mole" (alkali) and tara under it. While using one bag, it is needed for etching parts. Acetic acid. It is necessary to add to the paint, but I decided not to add. This paint is green. She paints normally and without acetic acid. And if I do not add it, I do not know what will happen. Therefore, I will not use. Further. I also acquired a dye: like this. Also tried to paint. Something turns out. I think if you try, you can normally paint them. Manganese could not stain. This blue thing is also not very good colors. Well, the paint is painted normally. I seem to have spoiled the yellow because I added soda there. So it was written in the instructions for the paint. Well, this red paint is normal, not spoiled. Nothing is added there. Not exactly remember, maybe I added acetic acid. A lot of everything is necessary, has exhausted a lot of distilled water: 10 pieces of such two-liter bottles and one five-liter. Because everything is washed, everything is diluted accounted for distilled water. Mug here still took a little boil. Kapton tape for protection, + the installation itself which is now working at the top + power supply. Quite a lot of good is obtained to anodize. By coloring here such blanks interesting moment. When we anodize, it is cold, it is whole so large and omitting even in a warm solution, it does not immediately stain, does not immediately take over the paint. Because it must also warm up and then begins to actively absorb. I, by the way, have not yet fixed it. She's kind of so sticky. This is normal. More processing tools. This is a polishing wheel on the grinder. Also goi paste. Well, I tried this paste automotive, 3 m - but this is a rough paste. And I have already lost the pasta of goyim here somewhere in this mess. Here is a little piece left. Acetone for degreasing. Soda, the purpose of which I also did not really understand what it gives ... Another electrolyte. It turns out all took four bottles: first 2. then I had to pour out the solution, because something went wrong. He began to turn black there, electrodes began to turn black because I'm covered the installation package, and electrolyte got on stainless parts. That is, this stainless steel ring is made, it should not plunge into the bath. Well, here are these bolts too. If they were titanium and titanium ring, then I think everything would be fine. An hour has passed. We take out and carry on paint. Gray color, nothing darkened, not blackened. Great news! So, until it withered, need to wash OK Paint a little. Added by. The paint is heated to 60 degrees Celsius. The process of staining is slow, two minutes have passed. So far the only way. 4 minutes, 6 minutes. 8, 10 and 15 minutes. I think that's enough. I'll be cooking right in the paint, because sometimes it turns out that the paint comes out when lowered into the water. Very strange, it seems that it should not be so .... Well, if the paint is boiled, it will be perfectly guaranteed. By the way, this one I did not cook. It seems to be how it happened. And it happened that you dip and immediately the paint starts to come out. Maybe, if the water was warm, it would be so. Ten minutes, cook the green compote. When welding it is advisable not to remove the part, because it is instant the paint dries and, accordingly, the outside also dries out and ugly stains are formed at the same time. I assembled the engine. That's how it looks now. I will paint the rest of the engines in other colors, friends. I shot this video the way it all happened with me right here in the studio. That is, without any decorations, with all the torments purchase and select all these materials. I have never done such work before. It turned out very cool! I am satisfied with the result, and this is the most important thing. but how I achieved this, this is the second question .... If you like this format, support likes. Or the format that I took a dip, pulled it out and everything was ready, so to speak ... Well then I do not know what to do? Then there is something wrong with this world. Who was interested, subscribe to the channel! Like! We look forward to continue manufacturing these micro engines. I stumbled a bit with this anodizing, but Now I know how to do it. Bye everyone, guys!
