Altar of Khaine: Warhammer Terrain Project

welcome back to traveling dice this is Jason I have a Terrain build for you in today's video which is focusing on the altar of Kane which is found in the warmer fantasy 8th Edition rule book it's one of the mysterious monuments and I came across this packaging material uh after the Christmas gifts had been exchanged at my house and yeah sometimes I find that this packaging material looks really promising in terms of just turning some trash into some interesting Terrain nevertheless I I saw that one portion of the packaging material and it just kind of looked ultery to me and I thought I could add a few things to it just kind of finish it off and I just cut it out and removed a bunch of portions and then I'm using as that basic material just some chipboard which I I traced the initial altar piece onto the chipboard and then used the jigsaw to cut it out and the center just to Bevel the edges now I did notice that when I cut out the alter um kind of Base portion for this build that it wasn't quite sitting flush and it was kind of sitting at an odd angle so the only reason I'm adding the cardboard at the bottom is just to kind of bring it up to what looks like a More Level height so these cardboard pieces that I'm cutting out here I'm just going to use essentially a shims underneath the piece to get it to sit in a proper way I know I'm going to cover them up so I'm not too worried about them being visible although I don't really want them to stick out greatly once I have the initial base of the build here glued onto the actual chipboard base I then go and start to fill in that Center area it's very Hollow it's very shallow and that is going to be kind of the focal point of the Altar and the the rest of the structure is going to kind of build up to that and it's going to have kind of a recess down I do like that recess but I don't want to be quite so sharp I cut out a cardboard piece that will fit in there once I see that it's going to fit well I use that as a template to cut other pieces and I'm simply just gluing in layers of that cardboard until I feel like it's the appropriate height I put a fair bit of effort into making sure that the last layer of cardboard going into that actual alter portion is sitting in there as flush as possible with this few gaps as possible I know that I'm going to be filling that in and have other material added onto it and I don't really want it to fall in any gaps that might exist so I add that piece in and glue it down so I give all the glue a chance to dry here when I'm putting this a particular piece together at this stage or leading up to this stage I've used a combination of hot glue for certain areas and then PVA glue for certain areas so the PVA glue does take a little bit of time to dry and at this point I realized that I made a slight error that my chipboard base in the front should have some extra room because I intended to have a little ramp section leading up to the altar so that's not great it's hard to rebase it it's hard to make that chipboard base bigger I suppose I just could cut another base and then have like a multiple elevation thing but that's kind of more work than I want to do to solve this problem so I I cut out a section and I decide I'm just going to kind of make the ramp further back I think it actually ends up working out okay but in my mind initially I thought the ramp would be out in front which is just no room to add it so that's the reason I'm cutting into this thing and then I'm just going to kind of sculpt the ramp leading up to it initially I thought too I might create some foam stairs instead of the ramp but I started doing that and um it wasn't looking great in my mind and it was It was kind of difficult and I thought okay well the ramp will be a lot easier and it might look better so to make the ramp and any other areas that I need to kind of fill in I'm going to use this product called sculpted mold I purchase it on Amazon it's not particularly cheap but I do find that a bag lasts a fair time and all I do is add water to it to get it to be about the consistency of of oatmeal here and I'm going to use it here to fill in the altar portion and try to make it look a little Stoney because I just had the cardboard there I'm going to use it to build up the ramp and then really just fill in any slight gaps that exist where the piece makes the base so I'm just working that into place I knowing that I'm going to use my finger here I do put on a on a glove but um yeah I don't know this substance might dry out your hands a little bit if it's on there for a while and oftentimes I don't wear gloves but um I don't know in this instance it seemed to make the most sense because I knew certain sections of this I was going to have to uh sculpt with my finger the sculpt mold does take about 12 to 24 hours to dry and I think that depends on a few variables so how much water you add to it you know how how liquidy of a consistency are you working with um the weather conditions the temperature wherever it's sitting and drying warmer temperatures going to yield you a faster drying time um so it has a few factors but I find that generally within 24 hours it's completely dry and it also dries and it's it's pretty durable it's pretty sturdy it's pretty hard so I do like the fact that it's it's workable um and yeah it can really kind of take any shape here the dry time is a factor so if you're trying to finish a piece quickly and move on it's probably not the best but if you're like me and kind of carve out just a few minutes work on something and come back to it later the next day it's it's really ideal once the sculpted mold is dry I'm going to go ahead and add a layer of sand around the base I'm going to try to make this kind of look like soil so I put down a fairly generous layer of PVA and then just dump the sand right on top all around the base let it dry and then I hit it with a little bit of a Mod Podge coat just to kind of seal it in it does take several hours for the PVA to dry I do find that the sand kind of absorbs it and tends to speed up that drying process but I do give this definitely several hours before I tinker with it at all so I do feel like at this point it's kind of missing something which is like some Flames some torches um some little statue pieces on some of the more pillory sections and I have a little collection of some of these bits which are from the reaper bones line and they're they're kind of like little pedestals little torches little flames and I go into that Arsenal uh I got them from one of the kickstarters I would think by now they're probably available on the reaper website but this kind of thing you can probably find in your bits box or the Torches potentially you could make or sculpt if you wanted to add something like this but just around the altar area I'm adding in three torches and then kind of flanking the the ramp leading up I'm just adding in two skulls which I think I'm going to end up painting gold I use super glue to glue these particular pieces down since I'm not gluing them to foam I know the super glue is safe to use the super glue that I've traditionally used honestly just because it's the first Subaru I ever got and kind of liked it never really deviated from it is the Zappa Gap and I generally purchase it on Amazon all right so you do notice that there's some paint on it I did want to prime those bones torches and skull statues because I just feel like they're going to be easier to paint I've I've heard some people say you don't have to Prime the bones models I always do um I don't know if it's I'm just a creature of habit here I've never really tested the you don't have to Prime the bone stuff but I know your mileage may vary so at this point I'm cutting the actual Center altar structure I want to have like this platform for you know sacrifices or things of that nature and that's going to be cut out of the piece of the pink XPS foam and I'm just kind of testing it and seeing how it fits there I'm going for kind of a general overly kind of shape and after I get what I feel like is kind of an appropriate shape for the piece I just texture it I think I end up using a rock and just kind of mashing it in there to try to create that Stony um texture to glue this foam piece down I simply use Eileen's tacky glue it's kind of like a thicker PVA and I glue it in place you could certainly use hot glue especially if you wanted to immediately move on but I was going to let that sit for a while and what would a Warhammer piece be without some extra skulls I go to my Citadel box of skulls this is actually a really cool kit for bits and you get just as advertised just a ton of skulls so I get the skulls primed I end up just taping them to a little piece of cardboard because I want to kind of paint the rocky areas separately and then glue the skulls on already painted which we're kind of at that stage which is awesome um and ironically though um painting is kind of my my least fun stage of terrain building I don't know why it feels like when I'm building it I can see the progress a lot faster than uh painting it uh nevertheless I do an initial code here of the mixture of black paint with Mod Podge it may not be as critical on a piece that's mostly foam the black paint Mod Podge can kind of stiffen up and strengthen your foam from the pink XPS foam portions of any project and this is a trick definitely picked up by Blackmagic craft if you're not familiar with that channel go check it out it's awesome all right generally I let that Mod Podge black paint mixture dry for probably an hour or two and then I go on to painting so for the stoning portions I tend to just go with gray I do three um colors of gray kind of progressively lighter starting with the dark gray and then also I try to dry Bush these on in a way where each layer is getting kind of progressively thinner and lighter and kind of more just focusing on the edge uh edges of the piece when it comes to painting Stone in this style I do immediately move on from one color to the next so although when you're dry brushing it doesn't particularly take the acrylic paint a long time to dry I find that just immediately moving on kind of gives me a little bit of a blending effect the other thing that I don't do while doing this is clean out my brush so the other thing that I think gives you a little bit of a blend is just kind of having a natural mixture of one color to the next in in areas of the dry brushing so same brush don't clean it out and I immediately go from one color to the next and yeah I find that the result is pretty good on the skulls I do paint these separately and I paint them directly on that cardboard piece which I primed them on and I know that the the portion that I'm not able to paint because they're taped down is the portion that I'm going to glue to the terrain piece so I'm not that bothered about one side not really getting the paint oftentimes on horns and Bones I'll do kind of a brownish look and I start with a burnt Umber and either do a dry brush or just a paint on highlight working my way up to a ivory color or sometimes a light ivory color depending upon the piece I think this I actually hit with a slight highlight of the light Ivory but I'm going through this process fairly quickly it's nice that they're not glued in place because if they were glued in place I'd have to go a lot slower on this particular step so now I go and paint the soil portions around the actual terrain piece and I'm using burnt Umber and I'm actually just using my piece kind of as the palette here I don't always do stuff like this but uh every once in a while it seems kind of convenient and I just kind of put a big pile of paint on one section and just kind of keep going back to it and extracting paint from it you run the risk of just having too much paint on the piece and then you have to somehow get it off but I felt pretty confident I knew about how much paint I needed and I I really wanted to put it on in a fairly thick fashion anyways and get really good coverage so it ends up working out I do a layer of this burnt Umber and then after that dries I do typically let the soil base coat dry I just dry brush on a territorial beige color as a highlight now it's time to glue those skulls into place so I do use my zapa Gap super glue here and this bottle is kind of almost empty and I've had to cut back the tip a few times so it's not really as precise of a glue as I would like it comes with this really fine tip and then I find that over time it crusts over enough to cut it back so you know ideally you'd probably be using something like tweezers for this and you do run the risk of getting a little glue on your fingers but I can find my tweezers so I just kind of roll with it I end up doing okay here all I'm really doing is kind of placing them in the crevice really along the perimeter around that Center Ultra structure and then I put one in there right by the altar itself and at this point we're kind of coming down the home stretch I start painting the little skull statues along the ramp and I'm doing these with some darker gold colors I always find gold on black take several layers it seems at least for me for the paint that I'm using so I do a few layers of that I do go back on that portion and add in the I think it's called the sepia wash I'm a big fan of the Games Workshop washes I don't generally use their pains but I find that their washes are a really good tool for getting certain effects so the sepia wash I end up going back in and hitting the gold with that and then doing a few highlights the braziers I just hit with a bronze kind of a color and then go back and and hit those with the sepia wash as well and then the actual flame portions I know that the Flames uh in theory you it's the opposite of a lot of other highlighting where you have the lighter colors and the recesses and the darker colors up front I don't know I find that it just looks odd to me so for the Flames I just add a series of oranges going from a really dark to a really light and then I also apply uh kind of an orange color wash um it's a really old wash I don't know if it's available anymore but I'm sure Games Workshop has um a newer version of it uh so yeah that's the flame portions there and then I go and I add some flocking around the base like there's little patches of uh grass or Moss going around I'm pretty liberal with this but it depends on the on the piece itself at that point I then do two coats on my pieces I find that the uh testers lacquer gloss coat doesn't actually mess with the foam in my experience again your mileage may vary so do a layer of the gloss and then I hit it with the Citadel matte varnish and I also find that that's pretty foam friendly you definitely want to do some test pieces though anytime you're spraying directly onto foam and unfortunately the Citadel matte varnish is not cheap actually neither is the testers but I don't know I find that those give me decent results uh so those are the finishes that I typically go with oftentimes when applying this flocking I just use super glue I've used PVA as well I think the PVA works fine I just find that the super glue seems to hold it better and I feel like sometimes when I use the PVA it ends up kind of flaking off after the Project's down a little bit which is probably not the end of the world so I've used both I think either is fine but I seem to have better luck with the super glue all right so the very last thing I'm going to do here is try to do like a blood effect on the ultra portion itself and I'm using a combination of the glossy Mod Podge with some red paint now in retrospect I wish I had made this mixture darker I don't think that the red was quite dark enough and then I think also maybe in retrospect I would have used this effect a little more sparingly but nevertheless I'm overall happy with the result but I think a darker color might look better and then just yeah probably don't get too carried away like me but nevertheless I think it adds a little splash of color otherwise you know sometimes you run the risk of this just looking like a big gray kind of a blob when everything is said and done this is my final result uh although I might have gone a little less crazy with the blood effect I'm declaring this a success and this is ready for the table top I hope you enjoyed this video uh if you did and you know someone that might also enjoy the content please share it with them bye for now

Channel: Traveling Dice

Views: 527

Keywords: Terrain, Tabletop Terrain, Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer Fantasy Terrain, Warhammer Fantasy 8th Edition, Warhammer the Old World, Warhammer the Old World Terrain, TOW, TOW Terrain, WOW, WOW Terrain

Id: g9odIk3Q2dU

Length: 18min 59sec (1139 seconds)

Published: Wed Feb 01 2023