Aldi C64 Blank Screen Repair Part 1

[Music] hi it's Jan bata and nearly completely forgot her hat thirds Commodore 64 in the Aldi version that I got hold off when I made my Aldi 64 video while back um this one isn't working at all and I I did some work on it I think I filmed a bit of it but didn't really get anywhere so I completely put that aside and worked on something else and I thought it would be time to make another Commodore 64 video anyway so um I just found this in my stash of broken machines to the right here and yeah let's have a look so as I said I had this open before and know what it looks like and doesn't look too bad in this state it's in I'm going to show you in a second just let me show you briefly what it does when it is turned on so it's hooked up to the video converter there and it produces an output signal so the the converter realizes there is a signal connected but it gives me black screen so there's a classic blank screen commodore 64 the Aldi version that has an earlier revision of the short board that was used in later Commodore 64 models so yeah let's take a look so I already had this open cables here and as you can see I already removed the RFU wrist strap so don't zap anything so here's where we're at and I actually replaced this 4 inch 17 microfarad capacitor because it was blown actually so these are for smoothing the voltage of nine volts coming from the power supply that are rectified with this bridge rectifier and used for for some voltages that are needed across the board here for the tape port and stuff like that and there might have been a no but over voltage or something like that on the nine volts which I don't really know I don't see it happen a lot maybe somebody did something weird with this machine don't see the smoothing capacitors get blown a lot but yeah that's what happened obviously I don't know what happened to this machine I think as we have video out of some sort at least the signal let's try that test card and still get a blank screen black screen but the dead test cards takes a while to to set in usually but in this case doesn't really seem to do anything no nothing another thing that has been done to this board by the previous owner allegedly is that the RAM chips have been replaced so don't know if these work really but they're in there and you know they did a good job or if they shorted out anything or something like that I think we should check the voltages on the board so we can be sure that all the voltages are correct here should be the AC voltage which is a bit high on my homemade power supply but it's fine yes yeah that's normal and this is a bit low so let's see the the eye sees get the right voltages so this should be 5 volts I guess this should be 9 volts 5 volts the 5 volts seem to be a little bit low so that's the low really should be a little bit like five point one volts or so usually that's really tiny bit low voltage hmm so suspect there's something going on there with maybe short or something so the eye sees get warm actually so I think I'm going to have a look at the voltage this with the scope I guess so let's see just turning 164 on and I'm connecting my probe to various points on the board where there should be 5 volts so K this is what the supply voltage for a chip looks like 5 volts this is like 7 to 2 volts per division so this is a bit lower than 5 volts that's exactly what it should look like so it seems that there's activity on the I cease as well okay checking the pins on the CPU which is the 8500 this is the reset line which should be high when systems running should go high after a couple of seconds or like 20 seconds or something look at okay we're looking at the address lines these are the address lines and there's activity on activity activity let's look at the data lines which are pin 20 no 1024 to pin 37 really 37 is the dead line 0 okay there's nothing on the date Heights there's something something okay look so the signal is on the data lines you did not press present or stuck hi so guess there's something either it's the processor itself that's gone or maybe the round that has been replaced as the kind of suspect there's something wrong with the processor at this point because it is quite a common fall deck 3 K there should be let's check the clock should be on pin 18 should be 24 23 this should be clock it is at the data lines as activity on the data lines there's nothing going on there address lines have a signal that's a bit weak so I think it might be the processor I'm just going to the soul of the process various and put in a no working one and it also gets pretty warm which is unusual especially as this is not running anything yeah let's try that I think I have a feeling that this might be faulty this might be the only thing that's faulty there it's might have gotten some over voltage at some point and these processors are pretty prone to failure in general how many some flux flux always helps with Sol ring and with the solar ring [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so there's a couple of pins I didn't get fouled but I'm just going to add some more solder to them some fresh solar because it has some fresh flux in it and will get better heat transfer with some new flux we're going to flow in a couple of things just going to redo them most of them I think are fine already dudes see these newer Commodore 64 boards are way harder to Sol run and the old ones actually so maybe okay that works beautifully okay I think I have most of them lose now see just going in with this sputter that I have lying around I'm just wiggling them a bit to get the last remaining bits that hold them in off there okay we don't seem to have damaged any traces that's good obviously so what I'm going to do now is to swap the chip we just is soldered in to a working Commodore 64 well this is an old one but the 8500 is fully compatible with the 6510 it's just another manufacturing process so these are interchangeable one way or the other so just come swap this in really quickly into this one here this this is as we've seen in the previous videos about the black beauty Commodore 64 I'm gonna link them and here this is nearly all socketed so it's pretty convenient just get out there see that really was okay testing the dealership and it works so the processor seems to be fine on the Soaring and socket in the board so we can replace it to our liking later so I removed the sit chip and it still gives me the same black screen so I am going to check the liquid chip and eighty seven or one o'clock trip that's this one here both of those can give me a blank screen if they are shorted or not working correctly this is the the master clock really for the video out so maybe there's something wrong there otherwise there might be problems with the RAM chips that have been replaced in this machine and might also be the CIA or one of the little logic I see is they're just going through rake housings troubleshooting guides which I highly recommend I'm gonna lengthen it and I basically linking those in below every Commodore 64 repair video because I refer to them so frequently they are really really helpful so I'm just gonna swap this chip into a working commodore 64c board to see if it is working okay let's test this Commodore 64 with the big two from the broken one I'm testing yep perfectly fine okay let's test the little drop ship there okay testing with the clock tip from the other machine there okay so I'm just going to put the original chips back we don't get much activity on the address lines so might be the input output may be candy responsible for a blank screen if it is shortage and this gets quite hot on this one so I guess I'm trying to do sort of these it was only the RAM my dad test would do something I guess copy that the RAM is completely busted that would be another possibility think I want to test the CA one first should probably replace the capacitors at some point but the wall just looked fine even in the scope so I doubt that it has anything to do with that [Music] yes okay I pulled in a socket and hope for the best and again I'm testing the chip from the broken machine in a non-working machine so we're going to be able to see if the chip is okay turning it on ah okay so we don't have a cursor we don't have a cursor so that's ship is broken all right definitely broken thank you Ray Carlson for pointing out the short at CAA can be the culprit let's try with the non-working CA in the c64 okay putting the known good one into the corner 64 you can leave out the set for now because it's going to start up fine without the sit if that was default it might be multiple fault of course which always makes things a lot more difficult okay fingers crossed this fixes this Commodore 64 which is the algae model just pretty nice really okay and it's exactly the same behavior okay so that's not good let's try to text the debt has cartridge come on you can do it so that was promising the CIA was damaged so replaced with this one it is known working one I'm also going to replace the second CA because if this one's shorted might as well give us a playing screen oh yeah there might also be the RAM well will be kind of handy to have although I see is socketed on this one for quick testing purposes probably so this is probably going to be my test Commodore 64 at some point just be happy to get it working again really so let's go on desoldering I'm a bit out of ideas but I am kind of blindly checking the chips here the RAM could also be cut but it could also be the 74 LS o 8 top here it stays pretty cold yeah as I said maybe this got some serious over-voltage at one point so there might be numerous a number of issues somebody replaced the Rams I guess these are new lamb chips that are probably fine so I'm just going to disorder the LS 74 74 LS o 8 because I have some stock of those although both might give us the playing screen that we have is this why you three suckered as well okay got the new tripping let's test it this is turning into quite a lengthy but this machine if you get a machine with over voltage it's often ever so much and it's exactly the same I'm just going to disorder ii CH of now let's go this is like a sewing tutorial I'd see if it works with out the CH maybe that was shorted it should do something at least don't don't okay Raun maybe the RAM is completely shot I am going to try to put new capacitors in I think yeah maybe check the clock so I don't have any spare RAM chips at the moment of the right kind so I'm taking it from this port just want to briefly show you show you this previous owner that this doesn't work and as you can see the RF modulator has been ripped off I'm using this as a spare sport at the moment maybe I'm going to take I'm going back to this at some point and trying to fix it not at this point so yeah I'm just taking the RAM chip RAM chips off there to see I don't know if these work but it's worth a try I guess I don't have anything else planned for tonight this gives me exactly nothing so a bit out of ideas at the moment but I'm not giving up yet so the new old CIA in there we're at least getting better reading on the 5 volts so I guess that's that's close normal 5.1 or 5.0 87 something ok that's actually on blue that's what low so thus it might be port maybe you know they go to sit there it's a stubborn one it's still a blank screen as before just the same the water just are better should work without the two CIA chips without the said chip I'm getting confused here with the names so yeah what I'm going to do now it's pretty unlikely that the PLA is faulty and this gets a bit warm usually if it is faulty it stays stone-cold so that's not the problem most likely that's not the problem I am going to replace the capacitors regardless because I would do it anyway and yeah otherwise pretty much out of ideas here hmm that's an interesting one and heat maybe one of the other logic chips has some issues maybe a check to the traces on the RAM and they are connected to each other so that's not not going to be a problem okay I'm replacing the capacitors as a kind of thing do anyway [Music] [Music] so I double-checked the connections on the RAM and they all seem to be there so there's nothing wrong there the connections to the PLA are there or the the super PLA the connections between the troops are there I found one thing that bothers me the din Jack here the audio/video Jack's cracked in this corner there you can see there and also on the backside this connection is protruding to the inside of the board with more so it probably won't make good contact so I am going to replace this with a spare I'm going to salvage from the donor board okay got the broken one out so it's probably good idea to replace it so here's my universal spare sport which has like not worth repairing damage on the RAM and some other fault I can't quite pinpoint so I couldn't get this back to working order so I'm just using it for spares and they're already salvaged quite some components as you can see but our thin jack on here so we are just going to salvage that one from this they all have the same footprint basically so I'm just going to do so love this from here [Music] so as you can see it looks a tiny bit different uh than the other one here the old one because it has no metal shield on here but that doesn't matter at all I guess for the function because the pins are identical except for it only has two ground pins instead of three but they are connected together anyway so yeah that's gonna be alright unfortunately we get the same results with the new tin jack in there but at least it's proper working din Jack now it doesn't have any cracks just gonna get rid of the old one so I'm checking the reset circuitry now and the reset on the newer boards is there's a little pulse generated by u23 as soon as the five volt rail reaches its nominal voltage so this is just just a little circuit consisting of two diodes or capacitor and this chip that gives a little pulse we're going to see in a second on pin six and I think or another pin to pin two maybe I'd remember but of in six one two three four five six should give me a little pulse let's look at the scope okay so use pin six of u-23 which should give me a reset pulse if it works yep and it was just that's the pulse and then we can check on you 22 okay so we switched it on that's pintu on you 22 and this should stay high after power on reset so this is just yeah this is just fine so this should also go to the processor and pin 40 and there it is yeah that's a recent circuitry seems to just switching off again switching on again this is probing the processor at pin 40 which is the reset line and this just goes up and stays so this is perfectly fine i probe the reset line before but it wasn't sure of a film that I wanted to explain a bit but more detail because it's pretty important if this doesn't work the whole system doesn't start up because it doesn't get the reset signal and yeah I mean seventy four or six which is you 22 and the you 23 which is a 74 LS 14 yeah they fail sometimes so the whole system fails because of the little logic chips not working so probing the kernel which is combined kernel and basic ROM on these newer Commodore 64's on the old ones there were two separate chips for basic and kernel and there are a lot of lines that are permanently high which is a bit suspicious so it's not starting out properly there's no activity whatsoever going on let me show you the scope I'm sorry that I can't film the scope and the probing the chip at the same time so this is just some of those some of the address lines just stuck high and there's no activity usually this would have some activity at least we have the same on the character on which is the chip right left yes a thing I want to try pulling the kernel and replacing it maybe that helps a bit out of ideas this gives me quite a headache maybe it's something I overlooked but the kernels is behaving suspicious [Music] and as it so happens I made a replacement carnal and basic wrong ages ago when I was working on another Commodore 64 this is an EE prom that I made so the shoot theoretically work if the kernel was little culprit so let's see fingers crossed no see if we can get to get to work nope so another thing to check is the clocks on the CPU we checked the reset line which is high which is fine there's a clock in on pin 1 and o'clock autumn in 39 this is the 8500 which is the same pin odesa 6510 in fact these are interchangeable so I'm going to measure a pin 1 which is the clock input and 39 which is the clock output off the CPU so I'm let's switch to the scope view so one of the little sections is 2 volts now this pin one should be the clock input which is absolutely it's pretty clean and good signal clock out looks a bit rounded yeah but it's absolutely fine reset line it's high so what I'm suspecting now to be faulty is this huge peel a chip which usually is very robust these very rarely fail but as this board as it had the burst capacitor in the first place it might have gotten some serious over voltage so I don't know how these chips react to series of voltage usually they take everything pretty lightly and they don't get hot and as the old peel a tubes yeah but in this case this is nearly the only thing left except for I overlooked something but that may always be the case of course but I really suspect this because the data lines from the roms to the rooms from the PLA are very they look strange there's not much activity going on and there should be because the PLA basically on is the heart that switches activity from and to the chips so yeah this possibly is broken I are at one this is 64 pin narrow pitch I see so that's gonna be fun desoldering I hope to get this done in a way that I don't mess up the board I'm going to put a socket in and I ordered a spare one there are actually two versions of these large chips this is the older version two five one seven one five yes this this is the two five two five three five or one this one's made by sharp the other one is also made by sharp which you can see by the little s there although this is MOS branded Yamaha made some of these they're basically the same chip only produced by a different manufacturer these have an integrated color Ram this is a more recent board this one still has a little dedicated RAM chip next to the big PLA that's the hint you can see that this is an older port revision of the short Commodore 64 boards the other one has it integrated in the large chip so ok I'm waiting on the spare here so then hopefully get this done this is the last thing I suspected because all troubleshooting guides say this rarely fails I've seen get it you can replace one of these before but I rarely ever saw somebody else do it so this is the first for me to this first time I just sold one of these so yeah it's kind of like the last resort hope it helps otherwise I'm just going to I don't know scratch my head and try something else maybe you should have a Commodore 64 so I ordered replacement super pure a and a socket for it and it's literally just a day later and it arrived it's the evening of the day had to take the kid to bed so this is where I'm at I have to do so love this 64 pin narrow pitch I see because I think this is the faulty one I check nearly everything else there might be something else I think I'm just going to do it now because I very much suspect this thing to be the faulty chip okay fingers crossed this is going to work and if it is going to work the dissolving process is going to work nicely and [Music] [Music] okay I got it out and it's not too damaged the pins are pretty flimsy compared to the ones on like 40 pin ICS or something like that I think I might have damaged one trace here this but it's can easily bridge to here I guess see if I really damaged that or if it's just if it's just like flux this should be connected to you anymore okay and it should be connected to at this point okay so that's not connected anymore but we can connect it back so I'm just cleaning up some of the holes here so I can put in the new socket easier later okay I have to make one little botch on the third pin there take a picture of that so I remember the other contacts seemed just fine the not a bad ratio 64 pins and I got 63 right and the ones not that badly damaged so okay let me put this monster of his socket in that's pretty looks great yeah but that doesn't look too bad in there yep and we're in Nice and I want to go from the third pin to this okay so I marked my little where I put the botch wire so don't I don't get let's try and sovereign will socket which should be the easier part there we go our little box wire okay definitely working now let's try and put our children okay this isn't isn't trivial I guess if you did one band Finn are you going to try forever okay since we're not too bad oh I guess it's time to try this thing cross your fingers everybody will see please work though okay poked around with the multimeter a bit more and I found this here's cr7 which is a diode I can put this into the beeper and the diode is shorted in both directions which shouldn't be the case also in the diode tester mode this should give me the forward voltage and it's zero volts so that's not good let's see what it is on a working board so as you can see this is not shorted and the forward voltage is something like 0.7 volts so the diode even measured in circuit it's definitely dead so let's dissolve it and put in a new one cr7 is Zener diode actually responsible among other parts for the nine volts yay so that's working that's a good one I salvaged from Bartlett laying around ok let's see what this doesn't gives me a hum so probably the voltages aren't right or something ok it's a couple of days later and in the meantime I caught a nasty cold again you can probably hear it in my voice still it's getting better but I couldn't work on this for a couple of days I replaced the little Zener diode that this is let me zoom in on that I replaced the little Zener diode this is 9.6 volt Zener diet that's responsible for providing the 9 volt unregulated to the rest of the board and this was shorted actually in the end I believe it wasn't shorted in the first place but the shorted out while I was testing this so it has been had been damaged at at least that's my theory I replaced this transistor here this is basically the 9-volt unrack circuitry the diode this resistor resistor and the transistor so that's providing the 9 volts which are derived from the in the end from the 9 volt coming from the power supply I involved a see that's rectified and this is converting it to 9-millimeter dragged you later but in discrete components so the voltage on the nine volt rail was a bit high this capacitor one of the capacitors was blown when I got the board so I believe that this got some really nasty over-voltage maybe lightning strike or something like that and a couple of iced teas were damaged the one component one component that is provided with nine volts from this to the circuit is the sid chip and in my case i removed it now because the commodore 64 should start up without the sit because i am i fear that it might get damaged otherwise so while i'm testing this I'm just removing it and the other thing that is supplied by the 9-volt is the RF modulator so my theory is that this blue while I was testing it was damaged before probably supplying the wrong voltages probably there was an over voltage on the nine volt rail at some point may be damaged the RF modulator the signals I'm getting from the new PLA are much more active and better than the ones I got before so as suppose the PLA was broken to what I want to check now is if I get a signal a video signal on the Vic to chip just this one here and if the signal is also supplied to the output because the the signal from the Vic to base runs through the RF modulator and if something shorts out in here you won't get a signal on the the output the video out so yeah that's what I'm going to do I'm going to scope the Vig to four signals and see if that provides the proper signal and if that has a signal and the output doesn't have a signal I'm going to replace the RF modulator because that's going to be faulty - there's a lot of 40 chips on your a lot of faulty components so I might have to replace other stuff but that's where I'm at at the moment so let's see if that gives me any clues about what's going wrong here okay here's the pin out of the Vic - chip this is actually the older version these 65 67 which is basically the same chip but this is needs other supply voltages made a couple of videos about that before we're going to sculpt in 14 and 15 this is the color or the chroma and the brightness or the luma this these should give us video signals yeah let's see if we get seconds out of the chip and if the signals are supplied also on the output jack on the din jack here well they should be otherwise we have a shorted RF modulator or something broken in the RF modulator this is pin 14 this is our color signal this looks good and this is our check this this luma signal just our brightness signal and there's something going on and this little dot here that you can see blinking probably is the cursor so we probably have a work in Commodore 64 but we don't have a picture output from the RF modulator so we are going to replace the modulator I think that might help so we get a video output on the scope I also checked with the that test cartridge and we get the same video output with more activity there that we get with the working Commodore 64 board but we don't get anything on the output we don't put anything on screen so suppose there might be it might really be the RF modulator so here we are it might just be a shorted capacitor or a diode or something like that so let's see I want to make sense to just replace this with a good one I think I might do that and then take a look at this later let's see if we can see anything maybe we can see a broken diode right away or something so the diode should give us forward voltage if we put this into diet diodes testing note can't see anything right way so let's just put in another one I guess let's see if that works okay so here's another modulator see let's just hope this works let's test this might just be the only fault that's left so an ordered connected it to my real CRT monitor because I didn't get a real signal on my converter box anymore after that test inserted so let's see if we get an output from yes there's a dead test let's see if it does anything yes it does soft it does stuff yeah this might just be fixed let's see if it if it runs through the test there that would be great yeah except for the sound test which obviously doesn't work because there's no sit in there at the moment it did work in fact this seems to work fine now whoo that's connected to the color monitor and see if it if it runs without the dead test okay let's let's first try to run it without the dead Testament see nope so we also have a broken kernel which is about the only thing I didn't check okay all we have something else broken that for that test doesn't show me okay let's put in another kernel I think I have burned kernel II it might just work maybe it works checking the birds colonel on an EPROM nope no dice okay the doctor 64 cartridge works partially it fails the RAM test interestingly okay okay so maybe we have some RAM problem still man but at least we're we're on to something I think the the RAM might be broken so I'm going to replace the RAM again with the one that the person who worked on this before put in there let's see maybe that helps maybe that's something else rotten okay a new Ram ok fails at the same point let's try another Diagnostics Carter ok so it passes the dead test which is a very good sign but I still don't get a picture I think without the cartridge let's see doesn't work so here's the other diagnostic card and it's running up to a point so the pariah seems to be ok but as a good sign interrupts don't rub some me mi so there's still something wrong there okay here's the same test on a good number 64 [Music] [Music] okay so the board remains a head-scratcher the next little thing I want to try to replace this which is a four or six six quadruple analog switch which can be used for a lot of different things I think in this case it's a buffer so yeah there are the levels on this one we're not quite TTL they're a bit low on some pins so this might be the only thing left that's faulty on this there's of course there's a lot a lot of small components that could be faulty the ICS I nearly replaced all of them there's another four or six six here which may be but this levels on this were not present at all because I think that's just for the keyboard input as far as I can tell so it only will have signals if you type on the keyboard which is not connected in this case I'm going to try to replace this one with Salvage one you can get these for really cheap from everywhere but I don't want to wait and I don't have any in stock so I just salvaged one from my spares board and I'm going to put in a socket and try if this helps any we're so so close [Music] so think of every single chip I replace as the one that will fix this so I'm making a little glamour shots of everything but yeah actually there's there's so many faults in the spores that this might be one step further diagnostic says let's see if it passes the test there so back again with the LD Commodore 64 which has remained a head scratcher for me up to now and as you can see I have something new connected to it send one of my viewers donated a little harness that goes with the Diagnostics card I'm using the five eight six two two zero diagnostic which is the standards Commodore diagnostic for the c64 it comes it came with the harness when was used by repair person spec in the day and then remade like little PCBs he designed and made me the cables which is I've kind of ashamed a bit because I wanted I was meaning to do this myself at some point build my own test harness for the Commodore 64 because I usually what's needed and I've never captained to actually build one so thank you so and for donating this and I'm going to link his github he made this all open-source the little on his V designs and stuff I'll link the github down below this is a really neat design and I think it's pretty pretty much a very straightforward build it's all nicely labeled and stuff so very very well done nice jobs thanks for giving this to me let's see what we get with the test harness connected by the way off-camera I checked the kernel this is perfectly okay it worked in another machine I yeah that's basically what I did off-camera let's see what the Diagnostics says with the harness connected okay so this looks just as promising as the last time we used this without the ok it says the process was bad cassette is bad keyboard the control ports the user port ok so there's some issue with the cia's it seems it says reports the 6510 which is blue CPU as bad both the CA chips are bad or rather at add in this case Wow which is interesting because oh so this should be ok yeah the characters are like 1 or 2 bits off which is interesting the B is like the the at is like two two codes away two numbers the number of the letter at is like two numbers away from the B which it should be which is interesting the M is like two before the old it should be and oh I can't really do the alphabet backwards J okay the M or whatever it is is pretty much off there's something going on there but I can't quite pinpoint what it is hmm I posted this picture on Twitter and people said I should just basically clean the control ports the the user port and maybe the data's at ports oh yeah I think I should just do that well these connectors are pretty tight because they are brand-new and I'm using like ooh and an eraser and pencil eraser which works pretty well so this stuff acts as a mild abrasive I guess so you get the crust off there and afterwards you have to clean away the like remnants of course obviously ok reconnected the harness after cleaning the port's let's see it does any good by the way the RAM test is not very conclusive as it only tests portions of the RAM so might still be like combined issues so the cassette shows is bad which is that's pretty bad so the processor is smaller less directly responsible for the data set port the interrupt I think could have also could also have something to do with the processor so maybe there's something wrong with the processor there [Music] ya know it doesn't show it doesn't show anything at the interrupt stage there where we still get the reading oh okay that's interesting that's a different reading actually okay so the u2 doesn't show us bad anymore the processor does the citizen so Kay to be bad because there's no city in there so the 6510 so it might be kind of an intermittent intermittent issue here so u1 shows us bad which is the right one of the CIA trips so it should probably put another one in there and check for connections mm-hmm I'm just wiggling the board rod and starting this diagnostic over maybe it's it's like a like an intermittent fault for it like a contact issue with some components on the board or something just holding down on the CAA you one no uh-huh okay you one's bad but you two now seems to be okay for some reason that's interesting so the cassette and the control ports that processor shows as bad and you one shows is bad okay hmm so I think I'm just going to put in a known good LCA to you one see if that changes anything done while I'm at it I'm also going to put another CPU in there okay that's interesting no it's not it's the exact same isn't it yes it's the exact same so we get bad still cassette port control port interrupts doesn't show up 6510 shows is bad 65 26 u1 shows us bad hmm yeah so I'm pretty much out of ideas at the moment might just be that it's another one of those buffer chips there's another one of those D for all six six chips down there that buffer signals from the CAA or to fall from n to the CA agus um yeah that might be 40 as well it's warm at least yeah I'm pretty much out of ideas at this point I am I'm going to replace this one that's the last resort kind of thing then I'm just going to if that doesn't do anything I'm just going to ask the hivemind half to youtube calendars to share their ideas maybe help me get through this like like they did with the common 128 repair I did which turned out to be very basic fault in the end but this might is wrong I'm just not seeing it so maybe if you saw something just put it in the comments below are just going to replace this chip here to see if that helps maybe that's the fault so let's try what it says without the little buffer and chip in there and the test harness might be interesting to see maybe it even tells me something about the state of things let's see see if it does anything differently this is probably just for the keyboard control not a little buffer for the keyboard okay yeah that's the same as before so it might just be at fault let's put in a another one I don't know if it's a good one too savaged one because I don't have any of these in stock see what it does no maybe that's different okay it is exactly the same and I'm resold out some soldiers aunts and stuff like that in the process so hmm I'm officially out of ideas for this video so yeah I am out of ideas as you can see I couldn't get this to fully work but at least I got it to work to an extent and I can see the diagnostic which doesn't really help at this point because yeah I think what's remaining to do is to check like all the connections on the CIA and the CPU maybe you recheck the PLA that's something I didn't check the PLA that I bought a feeble new one or new old stock one I didn't check that obviously because I didn't want to go through the trouble of desoldering one of these 64 like chips from a working Commodore 64 yeah so maybe that's faulty but it reports it's okay in the diagnostic so suppose the PLA is kind of okay yeah if you have any ideas feel free to post them in the comments this video has been long enough I guess if you want to support my check out my little patreon page that I am going to link here and in the end screen and also check out the links in the description there's always interesting stuff going on there and I'm gonna link all our tools and some troubleshooting guides I regularly use to troubleshoot Commodore 64's sorry I couldn't get this to work fully yeah so much for now thank you so much for watching hope to see you again on this channel sometime I'm a beta thanks for watching see you next time bye the least I can use this to play kind of play with the war looks it's like The Ultimates the maximum Sheen version of wizard of war and it seems to work to an extent at least this is so promising but I don't don't really see how I can and this is behaving oddly so there's some things wrong there I don't know this is pretty strange this kind of works and it's always so close hmm see you next time

Channel: Jan Beta

Views: 65,097

Keywords:

Id: uY4tGVdHcO8

Length: 75min 36sec (4536 seconds)

Published: Wed Apr 03 2019

Reddit Comments

[u/bubonis]

How much do you get paid to spam these videos across reddit every day?