Airfix PBJ-1 USMC 1/72 Scale | Full Build video

greetings everyone Brett here with Hammerhead model making back with another full build video today we are going to be building the airfix 172 scale B25 now my plan with this kit is to build it as a Marine Corps PBJ and and the reason I'm doing that is because on my Discord server I am hosting a US Marine Corps group build and this is my entry into the group build and I've always liked the Marine Corps Navy pbjs um mainly just because I really like the blue paint jobs on the B25 I think it works works works really well and so for this I wanted to represent a really early version of the Marine Corps PBJ uh so my thinking here is just it's going to kind of represent the the aircraft as they would have appeared just arriving in theater in the Pacific once they were actually in the Pacific and fighting the Marines made a lot of uh modifications to their b-25s so this won't represent that this is going to really relatively early the airfix B25 kit is overall it's a pretty decent kit it it does have some issues and I'll Point those out to you as we go throughout the build here uh additionally I actually ended up making a lot of mistakes on this kit and normally I try not to uh Telegraph my mistakes very much but I figured I I shouldn't hide them and because hopefully it can help other people to you know maybe not make the mistakes I make so there will be a few points throughout this build where I will point out some areas where I've I've clearly made some mistakes here but jumping into the build we do uh I did purchase the Edward color photo ET set for the cockpit well pretty much for the whole front half of the aircraft here so what I'm doing here is making a few modifications to the kit Parts in order to receive the photo ET later on so there are certain details that you will have to remove and um and trim down file down sand down however you want to do that in order for the photo ET to fit on later on uh the kit does a offer a fairly decent representation of the Interior out of the box so with some careful painting you can actually make it look pretty decent but uh because there is a lot of kind of exposed uh internal area up front I really just wanted to take it up to the next step here so there there are a number of electrical boxes or control boxes or whatever that you need to uh cut out of the photo ET and add into the model the uh the the plastic that you get in the kit only represents about a third of what should be there so it is nice to have the photo wch to kind of really help um detail out the interior spaces so these little boxes just require a couple of folds and then they get glued onto the interior of the fuselage halves you do have to really pay attention to uh where these parts get placed because you don't want them interfering with the rest of the the cockpit that gets fit into the fuselage so you really need to pay attention to the in the Edward instructions as well as you constantly need to be dry fitting the interior part just to make sure you're not having any conflicts there the uh the whole cockpit and front area is actually actually really welld designed because it it all kind of builds up as one unit that you fit into the fuselage and in spite of the fact that you do have a lot of plastic going there it actually it all fits together rather well and you can also use the fuse Sage halves to you know as a jig like basically what I'm doing here is dry fitting the parts in just to make sure everything lines up and so that it can dry in the correct position so a combination of you know constantly dry fitting and all that will will help you to get everything lined up properly and uh you do get the the little passageway that you crawl through to get from the nose to the back of the airplane that's all represented in in here and again it it all the way it all lines up and kind of connects together it's quite nice so um here you can see I've just getting some of these parts ready for painting you do get a full Bombay which is again nice uh often times if you see images of b-25s on the ground they usually have their Bombay doors open the the one thing I don't necessarily love about this design is the fact that the bombie doors are essentially molded onto this interior part here so if you want to do the Bombay doors closed you actually have to cut those parts out you do get a separate set of doors for closed doors but again kind of annoying but uh I guess that helps Ensure you know the bomb doors will there's no way they're going to break off once you get it all put together and they'll be properly aligned but it is what it is here I'm gluing all the parts together for the upper turret uh this is a fairly decent little little uh kit unto itself and as it should be because the the upper turet is quite large and there's a lot of uh not a lot of framing on it so it's you do see a lot of this so it's kind of nice that they give you this this good represent ation cuz you get the ammo bels you get the the ammo containers the the Gunner seat the Gunner controls not too bad here I'm adding a little bit of Edward photo ET to the nose guns so there's two guns in the nose there's a fixed forward firing gun and then there's a gun on a flex Mount that the Bombadier could could um could use so just getting a couple little Parts on there again the there's a lot of lot of clear Parts up front so definitely will be seen with all the Parts already I can start priming them I am using alad's um gloss black base uh this is kind of going off of my f84 build I'm really learning to like this as a as a primer and especially for areas that will be painted metal but even just then it's just I find it's a good primer it paints on well um it's really good at showing you know any imperfections or mistakes you may have so you're able to find those and fix them rather quickly so I'm liking it so we're just going to go ahead and get everything primed up and prepped for painting now you could do a lot of these cockpit Parts separate but I I don't necessarily find that necessary now one of the things that I did come across while doing research on the pbjs and B25 in general is that um most of them were painted the bronze green as opposed to the you know more standard interior green so just be aware although I believe a lot of them had either interior green or zinc chromate in the AFT portion of the fuselage but the front part all the crew areas in the front part were bronze green and uh so I just that's what I'm doing there instead of using like an interior green Additionally the Bom Bay on most b2s were kept in a natural metal color so here I'm just hitting it with some um alad aluminum and uh again that having that gloss black base really helps that aluminum shine and quite pleased with with how this ends up looking it did take a couple of coats to kind of fully build up that that nice aluminum color that I wanted but uh got there in the end so here's just the the interior like the the front aft and upper bulk heads for the Bombay again it is quite nice that you do get a relatively well detailed Bombay here so if you wanted to display the Bombay open without bombs you'd be able to see all that in there and it looks it looks pretty good so now we can do a little bit of detail painting so here we're just kind of picking out some of the like the cushions on the seats with a khaki color and uh just going through and picking out some of the other details as well um I think this kit would be fun to do it inflight uh with crew because again a lot of the forward area of the aircraft is quite visible even at the scale and with the semi thick clear parts that um airfix provid Ides I think it'd be great to have like crew in their pilot co-pilot and bomber deer you'd really be able to see it I think it would look I think it would look neat there's a little mistake there I got a little too much paint on the uh where I shouldn't have so I was able just to quickly clean it up with a you know a moist and Q-Tip but one of the nice things about working with acrylics if you act fast you can get them cleaned up pretty quickly um more detail painting going around just adding some uh aluminum to the ammo cans here for the upper turret and uh I didn't go too super detailed on this C just because pretty much anything below the clear part you won't be able to see but still it's kind of fun to get your practice in now we can hit everything with a gloss coat this will help protect everything that we've painted so far as well as uh give us a good foundation for doing washes and any decals that you might have the kit does come with an instrument panel decal however I found it very simple and basic so using the uh the photo which set there will will definitely help um and uh really help to lighten things up now I wanted to play around with different options for doing washes so my normal wash would be you know the ammo Mig um dark brown wash for green vehicles but I've been F and it's and it's great and it's and it's worked for how I've wanted it to work for forever um but I've been wanting to move away from using an enamel wash just because I find that it's um you have to have it over a protective clear coat otherwise it just it eats up whatever paints underneath it and so i' I've been trying to test out different things that will help me or that will allow me to do pin washes without using such a a hard um paint like an enamel so here I'm actually using watercolor and I've mixed the watercolor up with obviously with water and then with a little bit of dish up the dish up helps break the surface tension and allows the the wash to flow and go into recesses without necessarily like beating up and pooling up on flat surfaces um so I here I'm just using like a dark brown Sapia type color and giving everything a healthy dose or a healthy covering of the wash I wasn't necessarily trying to be careful or like you know accurately apply it but uh once it dries then you can move it with a damp cloth here just or a damp paper towel and uh wipe away the excess it doesn't quite um blend as nicely as like an enamel wash or an oil wash but one of the things I do like about this is that there's almost zero chance of it harming the paint underneath so with the wash done I can now go ahead and get everything covered with a matte coat so this will take away the shine and and get us ready for adding our photo ET as well as protect the wash that we just applied because that the wash being that watercolor uh substance it is somewhat fragile so you know if you have a little bit of sweat on your fingers or whatever and you touch it that could easily lift it off so getting that mat coat on there will help seal that in so that you don't have any problems later so now we can install the Edward photo instrument panel I am using um a thick CA glue super glue to attach it and here we can we add the second layer I I do like the multi-layer look of the instrument panels it just helps kind of add a little bit of depth especially when the the kit part really didn't have anything whatsoever it was just flat and you have to put a decal on there so this definitely adds a lot more detail to the instrument panel and um a little bit more realism there are more photo parts that go on here for the control console and uh again it's just a matter of you get your your super glue on there and then you attach the photo Edge parts and what's nice about photo is if you're using a brand new blade like I'm doing here you can actually kind of just gently push the tip of the blade onto the photo part and that's usually enough to kind of grab it pick it up and then apply it on there and it doesn't really damage the photo ET so I just find it a an easy way of applying photo ET Parts but but quite happy with how it looks uh now we can do the seat belts on the seats the uh Edward only calls out for lap belts and I've seen pictures of both just lap belts and lap belts and shoulder harnesses on the seats so um you know consult your references when doing that but I think it works um now I can start adding the uh photo ET to the side part so we had put those boxes on before the photo ET boxes on but now they have like the preprinted face plates to go on and there was quite a few of them so it's just kind of again just like applying the boxes earlier it's just take your time make sure you're constantly looking at your instructions so you're getting the right face plate onto the right box and just uh just work your way through the the list of things you have to do there um again this I I do feel like this helps add a lot of good detail to a somewhat visible area on the kit and ultimately I mean you could get away with just you know doing some Detail Painting here as opposed to the photo ET and you'd probably still get the same effect with the canopy on but I I like the look of it and uh I think it adds one thing it adds a lot of like color and contrast to the to the cockpit but just that extra level of detail so now that everything's on we can start getting everything all put together in the in the cockpit so we got the instrument panel going on we've got the control column going on on and uh seats going in I mean other than my fat fingers pretty much everything here fits pretty good and goes together well um I did I off camera I didn't show this but I did do a little bit of a dry brush over everything in here just to kind of hit some of those raised details and and pick that pick some of that out so just be aware that I did do that and I apologize for not filming it so before we close up the fuselage halves you have you if you want to have the bombs in there you have to get those done first so here I've painted them up and just getting the decals on them and uh getting ready to get these installed um the bomb detail is fairly decent I mean as decent as you can get a bomb in 17 second scale I guess uh because they're largely buried up inside the Bombay I wasn't terally worried about how detailed they were were going to look um mainly just just the fact that they were there so attaching the bombs was kind of tricky like there's a slot for it but it's um it's a pretty loose fit so uh it it took a little bit of time to get these in and at the correct angles um because you don't want the bombs interfering with the other side because they are pretty much one for one across so just be aware that's a little tricky getting those in installed correctly um but now we can get the all the components I'll put in the I like the fact it's got two Wings spars because it pretty much guarantees that you won't have any trouble getting the wings to fit on correctly so and it's pretty strong and robust but getting this in there takes a little bit of time but it it does fit so now so I've built this kit before I built it maybe five or six years ago and it's it's a tail sitter so it requires a substantial amount of weight in the nose and there's but there's problem is there's not a lot of room in the nose for that weight so you really kind of have to cram weight into every little nook and cranny that you can find so here I'm uh I'm just taking chunks of peor cutting them up and stuffing them into every little corner that I can um I did find out uh from from an acquaintance of mine uh obviously after this that you can actually buy metal replacement parts for a lot of the cockpit parts so like the cockpit floor and the bulkhead and all that stuff that's made out of cast out of metal and really helps with the nose weight issue and and you'll see this this will come back to us later on so now we can finally get the few slush Hales together now that we've got all the cockpit Parts all painted up and and installed and this is where and this has happened on both both times I've built this kit I I found the fit to be less than great um it felt like even though I I tried to make sure everything was aligned correctly and installed correctly and that there wasn't anything overly like not fitting how it should be I still found that I was getting gaps especially along the upper side of the fuselage that were more than you know they were fairly substantial and so that's kind of TR just cuz you have to deal with a lot of uh sanding so you can see here I've done my first passes of sanding and filling and you can see there's quite a lot of filler on there um and eventually I'll actually have to do a second pass once I actually get primer on the aircraft I end up doing a second pass just to fill in ghost seams and areas that I missed so it does take a fair amount of filler and sanding to get the fuselage halves together correctly and it's unfortunate cuz there's a fair amount of detail too that you end up um getting rid of because it doesn't fit great so now we can just add in some of these inserts so we have the the uh blanking plate for the lower turret so some of the early B25 the C's and D's actually had a retractable lower turret um but they quickly found that they were not very effective and were deleted so the opening was just blanked over that's why it looks the way it does um you also have the option of having both the front and rear hatch open um I opted to have them closed on this build here I'm just building up the uh elevators and the horizontal stabilizer so uh airfix does provide you with separate elevators separate Rudders and separate flaps for the kit so definitely nice for options uh I do like the way they handle the side windows here where they have the large clear insert that follows panel lines as opposed to trying to put in tiny individual windows um and even though it's just on these two little panels here it's still it's it's nice and it saves you some time uh now we can get the main canopy installed on again I like that it's it actually has that part of the fuselage in front of the canopy as part of the the part it just I think it just helps it fit better so installing the horizontal Sur stabilizer again fit here was not great I ended up having to do a lot of sanding and filling to get that all blend it in um and mean you can see there's a decent Gap there between the the horizontal stabilizer and the fuse slage so it it it's unfortunate that the kit has as many fit issues as it does because the detail is fairly nice and and the options you get with the kit are really nice so you know make of it what you will just be aware that you will have those issues so here I'm installing that uh Flex mount gun in the nose uh just tiniest amount of um the uh toia cement there to get that fixed in and now I'm I've I've slotted the fixed firing gun into the canopy front there and I'll I'll glue that onto the to the floor of the aircraft but I have the canopy there just to help make sure that it stays aligned correctly so that it points out the front of the aircraft you know straight um this part of the canopy doesn't fit great and leaves a little bit to be desired in terms of its width it feels just like almost like a millimeter too narrow but moving on we can uh add some canopy masking here so it is on a kit like this I find it's essential to get um pre-cut canopy masks it just takes so long to to do all this by hand and and having a preset or a pre-cut mask really really helps speed this process up I am using an Edward pre pre-cut MTH set here and I found it overall was pretty good U but I would also be remiss if I didn't do a shout out to kitm mask.com um and uh because they make great uh painting masks clear canopy masks um markings masks as well so check them out kitm mask.com look up their uh their website um again this the B25 has a lot of glass a lot of you know a lot of parts to to mask off and this would just be such a pain if I didn't have um you know a nice Mass set to to speed up this process so it's just a matter of you know just one piece at a time following your instructions fortunately they have it laid out pretty you know in a pretty logical way on the actual sheet so that it it's pretty obvious where what you know which part Parts go where on the aircraft um but because there are so many it just it takes time although I think in the end it probably took me about 20 minutes to get all the masking on and I think if I was doing this by hand it would have taken me hours of cutting and cursing and getting frustrated so it definitely is a huge nice benefit uh here I've got the landing lights painted up so these parts go um actually fit into to the wing so you have to install these before the wing you close the wing halves together um but they are quite nice because the B25 does have large Landing lights and they are quite visible on the finished model so painting them correctly will help you out a long ways and basically what I did is on the back side of the clear part I painted the the actual lens silver and then painted black around it and I think that helps sell the effect um so now we can get the wings all put together fit on the wings was actually really good uh I didn't really have any issues there The Landing light cover can go on I again I do like that this is a full like large clear part and then you can just mask off the actual lens part engines go in together you get a you know a full set of um uh a full front set of pistons and then half of a back set but plenty that's plenty for for this scale uh I have added the ignition wires and I do have a video on how to add ignition wires to engines I'll link that down below um now I need to drill out the exhaust so the b-25s after I believe like the early C's they went to short stack exhaust so the exhaust was coming directly off the cylinder head and then basically like making a quick Bend and then out the cing um so every cylinder had its own little exhaust stub earlier b-25s it all all the exhaust was collected and and exited out one single exhaust port on the side of the Nel um and it it is kind of a pain especially at such a small scale to do this but it really adds a great amount of detail to to drill out all of your exhaust um so basically what I'm doing here is I just I used a small drill but the drill is whole and then I'm using the knife to kind of carve out a larger opening that was a little bit that's a little bit more squared off to you in shape with with how those look and then now we can add the the first row of the exhaust on as well so these just get installed on and don't worry I will trim the the little locating bits at the end of those after they get glued on or after the glue hardens and they're secure on there but I do clean those up I promise um these ones are already somewhat drilled out so you don't have to do as much work with these ones but but because these ones are drilled out on the kit it makes sense to drill out the back ones so that they're consistent and look the same um so now we can paint the Interiors of the wheel wells we need to do this in order to move on with the construction of the aircraft so again as far as I could tell these were painted bronze green I could be wrong but um that's that's what I came up with as well as the Interiors of the engine cows and then we can do the internal framing of the clear Parts as well with that same bronze green color um by doing this first just helps as once you remove all the masking it will show the bronze green showing through on the inside whereas the uh the exterior color will be on the outside one unfortunate thing and and this is pretty common with pretty much all B B25 models is you have to install the main landing gear before you can close up the Nels it's annoying not like I mean it's not a huge roadblock but it just does mean that you have to mask off and protect your landing gear while you're going through the rest of the painting process here we're just throwing on some paint onto the um gear reduction housing on the engines and uh doing a little bit of detail painting here painting up the inition wires the B25 has pretty closely cowed engines so you don't see a lot of the detail but I mean it will be visible so taking a little bit of time to do a little bit of detail painting can go a long way just don't like stress over getting it perfect because most of this gets uh covered up um but now we can actually in glue up and install our uh engine the cells uh there was a fair amount of sanding that was required on these as well to get these to fit or at least to get these Blended together the actual fit to the wing is not terrible um and they do fall along natural panel lines so you don't necessarily have to do a ton of sanding with that but there is there is room in there to add more weight so obviously that's what I'm doing here is just adding more weight into the fronts of the engine the cells you want to try and add as ADD as much weight ahead of the main landing gear as possible to get this to not be a tail sitter um so I'm just super gluing this all in there and uh did this on both sides and then finally we can put the firewall piece on and now we can move on to painting the aircraft so the actual Wing to fuse SL fit is really nice and they just fit right on um but here's kind of where I made one of my first big mistakes is gluing the wings on prior to painting because the fit is so nice in hindsight I should have left the Wings off and painted them separately um it would have made masking and painting so much easier but I didn't do that so here we are going ahead and giving everything a good coat of primer um and you can kind of see a couple little ghost seams on the top there I do have to eventually get those taken care of but now we can start hitting the main colors um so we're just using a light gray from ammo Mig on the underside surface uh I didn't do any like appreciating with this the the b-25s that were delivered to the Marines uh were all fairly new and you know they were kept in in good condition during training so they would have arrived to the Pacific in in pretty good condition so I wasn't going to worry too much about doing you know super heavy weathering and fading and all that stuff so we're just doing the paint straight onto the primer here doing a nice good solid coat and uh making sure we get that everywhere um and then now I've gone ahead and using blue Tac to mask off the underside I'm going ahead with the the the blue color so this is a um this is a color called uh gray blue by ammo Mig um and just right now I'm being really careful trying to paint along the demarcation line but you can see how just annoying and tricky it would have been to get in and around like the Nels uh and the fuselage by the bomb bay with the bomb bay doors open it just would have been so much easier if I had left the Wings off so that's that's the big tip here is leave the Wings off for painting especially if you're doing a somewhat or pretty much with all the the uh the paint options you get with this kit you will need to do substantial masking so that's I recommend that the blue did take a few coats to get a nice good solid coverage on there but I got there eventually now I've just added a little bit of white to the to the gray blue and I'm doing a little bit of like lightning on the control surfaces just because they were fabric covered so we're hitting up the ruds and then the the elevators um in sorry the elevators and the Rudders with with a slightly lightened color from of the original base color and then I do eventually go on and and highlight a few panels with the lightened color as well just to add a little bit of subtle variation to the upper side surface just because even though these aircraft would have been new and in good condition still wouldn't have precluded them from getting wear and tear um decals for this build are pretty straightforward um I used the national insignias from the kit and then the rest of the decals came for my spares fortunately the uh the Marine Corps pbjs they weren't too fonded on you know going with tons and tons of markings so it overall is relatively simple here uh I I find that the air fix decals are generally pretty good I really don't have problems with the air fix decals um and they react well to my saw the set so happy with those and then as far as the spares the decals that I used for my spares they came from Mostly unidentified manufacturers because I couldn't even remember where the original decal came from but I didn't have any problem with any of them either so overall really happy the uh serial number on the aircraft will not be accurate again it's just it's something I got from the spares but I I needed black serial number so it will look the part um here's the Sola set so this is a decal setting solution you apply it over the decal and it helps it to conform down into any details panel lines rivets that type of thing so you apply a general you know a healthy amount and then let it sit overnight and do its thing so these only required one application and they snuggled right in and was very happy with them um here's a big mistake number two is I should have masked off and painted the deicing boots before doing the decals and because I've kind of gotten burned on trying to carefully mask over decals on recent builds um I didn't even want to attempt to do it so I opted to hand paint it now they didn't turn out the best but I think they it would have it's less of a headache than if I had tried to mask these off and spray them and again another reason why you should leave the Wings off while painting it would make painting the dicing boots so much easier but with that done I can now move on to gloss coating the entire aircraft in preparation for weathering so again we're using our alclad Aqua gloss here and uh I do thin the aqua gloss with a little bit of x20a thinner by timia and this just helps it spray on nice and uh nice and even and level out while it is curing so now we can move on to weathering and this is my first time using um Flory models clay based wash so again another experiment because I I I I mentioned I didn't want to keep using enamel washes um and I'd heard good things about the flurry washes and so I I I think I can say I'm I was pretty pleased with how they turned out and how easy they were to use um and they're definitely much more excuse me durable than the um the uh water paint wash that I made for the interior so they they do wipe off with a moistened towel uh it requires a little bit more effort to get to remove it than the um than the watercolor wash I made so definitely more durable it's not going to just rub off from on your you know just from touching it with your hands um it it requires a little bit of oomph to get that off and as well as moisture so pretty pleased with it now we can hit everything with Excuse me we can hit everything with a mat coat this will seal in all of our wash and all of our decals and prep us for the oil painting um I have heard people complain that they they find the Vallejo wash is difficult to use and I find that uh if you thin the Vallejo matte coat with like 30% um X20 thinner it goes on really nicely so I that's where I find success um removing the masking on the canopy revealed some problems there was a lot of sanding dust inside the canopy and and at first I was super bummed and really disappointed that it happened but because of the way the canopy is designed um it's actually not you know depending on how well you glued it in it's not terribly difficult to pop the canopy free and uh get in there to clean things up so um this is definitely a mistake on my part somewhere along the line I I either didn't clean out the res the sanding desk or you know there was a crack that got open that it was able to move around in regardless this is a mistake I was able to rectify um carefully you know because you don't want to break the clear Parts here but um I was able to get in and clean out pretty much all of the sanding dust and get these canopies back up to a nice Clarity so you just have to be careful when gluing them back on that you don't because you are gluing on to painted area I don't want to ruin the painted surface um I did have a few areas where uh the masking pulled up some some paint as well as just my handling of it so here I'm going back over just with a brush and the base coat to touch up a lot of the uh the areas where the the the paint got damaged so um it happens I mean it is what it is right the I was fortunate in this case that I was able to remove the canopy clean it up without too much fuss um and uh and was able to recover from this I've had other projects where I've gotten sanding dust on the inside of something that I knew there was no way I was going to be able to get to it and like that's just like a big gut punch you know the feeling that we're like you've gone through all this hard work and it's just ruined because of a little bit dust inside your your clear parts and because you can't unsee it like you just can't not see big specks of dust on the inside so I I am glad that I was able to recover from this one um and get this all touched up so now we can start doing a little bit of the kind of the more detailed assembly parts here landing gear goes on and unfortunately I didn't add in enough nose weight it still was a tail sitter that was that was another gut punch it was like after all that effort I went into filling every nook and cranny with weight it still wouldn't sit on its Landing GE and um so I decided to move on to weather ing while I decided what I how I wanted to deal with the tail sitter um if you've seen a lot of my other videos where I do weathering this is not going to be unfamiliar to you um essentially I I wet a c certain area of the model with mineral spirits and then I start adding oil paint here and then blending it in with this wide brush here um I saw some really interesting reference pictures of pbjs where the only place that it was dirty was in this section between the between the engine and the sails up and over the fuselage where the ground crew would have been work you know because those are the the areas where they fill up the fuel tanks so the ground CP would have been walking up there um servicing that stuff and so it's just it was just really interesting to see how just this like very specific section of the aircraft was dirty and it wasn't really dirty anywhere else and so I I really wanted to play around with replicating that so I'm using a black color here to start off with and you can do multiple layers to build up that effect and now I'm going to come in with a brown color uh a dark brown color just to add a little bit of dirt to the to the mix um and then again you just you can kind of slowly build this up in layers until you get the level and the saturation that you are looking for um so this isn't going to be nearly as heavy as some of the other models I've done or I have coming down in in the pipeline and future videos but it was just kind of fun and it helped kind of break up the overall like monotony of the blue color on the fuselage and um just kind of helps you to get an idea of you know where would the ground crew be actively working around the aircraft and so it makes sense they would be in this area because you know that's where the engines are that's where the fuel tanks are um they wouldn't necessarily need to be walking on the out Outer panels of the Wings there's just nothing out there necessarily for them to service um now we can do the exhaust and because this does have individual exhaust uh and exhaust Stacks you do get uh a really interesting exhaust pattern so again I'm using oil paint here black oil paint put a little dab on and I'm using this this dry brush to uh kind of stipple and blend it into the paint job and feather it out um and gives this great because it the the exhaust stubs run all around the outside of you know the outer diameter of the engine it's fun to kind of give it that that effect where you just get all these individual streaks of exhaust as opposed to like one large area of exhaust I just think it helps add a really cool unique look to the aircraft um and so now we can add on some of our final details here but we uh we are going to hold off because I did figure out that in order to get this to not be a tail sitter i' would have to attach it to something and so I figured well we need to make a small diarama base and I guess so the idea that I came up with was like okay the aircraft had just landed in its first area in the Pacific and um you know and so that's kind of what I going to go for here so I've got a little piece of wood here I've got some Modge Podge that I'm putting onto this is basically just fancy PVA glue um and then we're going to add some dirt this is just dirt from my backyard that I've sifted and and uh so it's nice and fine um add this on and uh get a good coverage here um so I'm going to kind of go for like a Sandy you know South Pacific look here and uh so I once the glue dried I primed it black and now I'm hitting it with this sand ivory color from bleo just getting a good nice overall coverage here I think in hindsight I would if I were to do it again I would prime it in a brown color instead of black I think the black kind of desaturated the sand color a little bit but um I mean that's a nitpick on my part here so now we're going to add a little bit more of the modge podge uh so that we can add some of our static grass so this I'm just applying this with a brush and uh I recommend using an old brush for this because you don't want to use a new brush because it will eventually Gunk up the brush um but now we can apply our static grass so this is a citadel or no sorry this is Army painter static grass kind of their just their field Battlefield green color so it's actually a mix of different colors which helps add a little bit of variety but just just basically wanted a nice bright green color here uh to represent some of that you know thick heavy tropical grass uh you can knock off the excess back into the container and um pretty pretty simple it's a simple base but I think it's effective um just going back over the edges and hitting them with some black uh I am not using model paint for this I'm using craft paint um just find it better to use craft paint for this kind of stuff as opposed to my expensive model paint so and it helps just kind of creates a nice border for the aircraft and now I can get the aircraft glued down so for this I'm actually using a f minute epoxy to get that glued on so onto all three landing gear um and then once once the actual aircraft was glued down there were a few final details that I wanted to add to it that I didn't want to add while I was still handling the aircraft um so here we're just adding a little bit of fuel stains to the uh the upperside surface and uh with that Vallejo product looks pretty good I think in my opinion um and then finally we can add the radio antennas here so this is easy line it's a flexible nylon like a stretchy nylon line uh I am securing it with uh thick CA glue and uh just kind of this is one of those things where it's not terribly difficult you just have to be really patient and not rush um but once you get it then it and it works great here so just uh extending so we have two lines that come from each Rudder onto the front Mast and then there's a line that goes from the front Mast to the rearward mask Mast sorry um and again so these are just secured with CA glue and uh it doesn't really take long for it to set up once you get it on there nice and tight and then we can trim the excess and uh definitely definitely looks the paron I love adding aerial rigging um but I also felt that we needed some figures now I've I've said it before I I struggle with filming my figure painting and I had actually painted these um for another project which is why you used to have the white background as opposed to the blue background but ended up using them for for the B2 or for the PBJ so um but I I I I hope you can learn something from this I am using Vallejo paints here I apologize I'm not calling out each individual color um but all my brush painting I do with with Vallejo paints here and uh so so I did a dry brush over the entire figure and the reason I did that is because it helps me to better see the small details because it'll it'll highlight and pick up little edges and and little details that kind of get washed out when you have like a solid primer color on there so this just helps me to better determine where I need to put paint um I know there are some people that will do this type of thing and then do like a like a thin wash over wordss so that a little bit of that dry brushing shows through I wasn't necessarily concerned with doing that on this um here I'm painting up the um life vest with an ochre color uh I eventually will go over it with a more of a yellow color but I find the ochre color is a good base for yellow um as opposed to like a brown or a black or something like that it just it it just helps make painting the yellow much easier later on so now I can paint all the straps and stuff with this uh I don't remember what color I think this was like a grayish tan color like a field gray color and uh so we can go over all of our straps these figures by the way um are were designed and sculpted by my good friend Mike Evans uh his company is called ston haven Miniatures and he's he uh he sculpted up these figures in on his computer and then I printed them out on my 3D printer and uh if you are a member of my patreon you can get access to these figures so we have the pilot figure and then we have this guy here he's the the cameraman so my idea here was the airplane had just arrived in the South Pacific and to commemorate the event the pilot is getting his picture taken in front of his aircraft so um just uh right now I'm just painting up the the fleece lined part of his jacket his bomber jacket there with h like an off-white color and um now I'm going to go over the entire figure with a wash this is the aggra earthshade wash from Citadel um Great Wash for doing figure painting because it really helps make little details pop and and adds like contrast to otherwise flat areas solid color areas so the whole figure gets covered top to you know head to toe um and now I'm going to hit that life jacket with more of a yellow color so I I do this after the wash just because I didn't want the wash to like dull down that yellow the bright yellow of the life jacket and um so because yellow is a traditionally hard color to paint with it did take a couple of coats to get the yellow to a nice solid color color um and then now I'm picking up the uh glass on his goggles it's a little bit of a stylistic choice definitely like I could have just gone with like black and called it good but kind of wanted a little bit of popet color in there so um hitting the goggles with some blue and then blending in different shades of light blue and white to kind of build up a little bit of a gradient in there nothing fancy but I I like the look of it and then once that's all done we hit everything with a mat coat so this will knock out Knock away the Shine from the uh from the wash as well as protect all of our paint work and um hopefully you can learn something from this again I I struggle with recording figure painting but I figured i' I owe it to you guys to give it a try so now we can inst super glue our figures down onto our base and that's going to wrap it up for us so um here we have the final reveal of our US Marine Corps PBJ okay and so this is this airfix kit is not perfect um but if you want to build an early style B25 it's really the only option in 172 scale so you kind of have to learn to love it um it's not bad by any stretch of the imagination just not great it definitely feels into their like falls into their range of like mediocre kits um but overall the shape of it and the details are pretty accur accurate and I think once you're if you if you're willing to put in the work it looks pretty good in my opinion um again this was part of a group build that I was hosting on my Discord channel uh if you are interested um let me know if you want if you're interested in the Discord I will be doing future group builds as well so um and I'll also have a video coming out later on showcasing all of the other group build uh participants so you can look forward to that um I want to give a huge shout out to my patreon for helping to support this Channel and uh make it easier for me to bring this kind of content to you uh additionally if you uh if you like what you've seen here and you're not subscribed yet I would I would hope you would consider subscribing I try to post videos every week um all creating between build videos and review videos so um like the video leave me a comment down below what you think and we will see you all on the next video cheers everyone

Channel: Hammerhead Model Making

Views: 48,326

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Id: KOW_V_L2M7c

Length: 50min 34sec (3034 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 09 2024