AIR CONDITIONER DETAIL INSTALL |SPLIT DUCTLESS AC HEATING INVERTER,MINI PUMP SYSTEM SETUP,DIY HOW TO

Hello here is Carl the landscape guy. In my new office I’m installing a split air conditioner system, that will be used for both heating and air conditioning. The model I chose is a 9,000 BTU 2.6 kw precharged inverter kit. Among other things, the manufacturer advertises that this system saves energy and is very quiet. It has an antibacterial coating on the fins, works with a new, environmentally friendly refrigerant and can be controlled via WLAN with a smartphone app. This system comes with the coolant prefilled unit, 9 feet of refrigerant piping, and small parts such as a feedthrough tube, insolation tape, sealant and rubber mounts. There is also the outer wall bracket, which I will show you later, when it comes to the assembly of the outside unit. Then here we have the indoor unit, which is very light. It comes with a cable that will connect both units. It also includes the manual, the remote control and a wall holder for it. Both devices seemed to have been well-packed and arrived undamaged. This is the back of the wall mount. The indoor unit will go on this brick and concrete wall. I measure the distance between the holes of the wall bracket from the outer edge of the unit. Horizontally, the plate is slightly adjustable. A minimum distance of half a foot from the ceiling must be kept so that the air can flow properly. I draw the height of the upper holes with the help of a level. The wall bracket can be easily detached from the plastic unit. It clips on at the bottom. I use the bracket to mark all holes exactly. I use a 5 mm masonry drill with a Bosch Hammer to make the holes. When drilling indoors I use the Kärcher wet & dry vacuum cleaner to catch most of the dust. In case you are interested, I will link all tools below in the video description. By the way, the rawl plugs and screws were not included. Now I will prepare to drill the 65mm hole in the wall. First I mark the position of the hole. You will find the distances for the hole in the installation manual, they are different for each unit. I use a long masonry drill to pre-drill the shank hole. I make sure that the hole is angled on a downward slope. When the guiding hole is all set, I set up the 65mm concrete shank drill bit and start making the hole little by little. Every few inches I empty out the drill. I drill from the inside out as far as I can get. This wall is 40 cm thick. You can get a longer drill bit or drill from the outside. Thanks to the guide hole, I know where to drill. I am making sure the inner and outer holes are matching up nicely. This drill bit wasn't that expensive and it worked pretty good so I will link it in the description. Now, it’s time to go back inside. I connect all cables and wires to the indoor unit, starting with the power cable. Here you can open the maintenance cover, underneath is a cover for the power terminal. All wires are labeled which makes connecting very easy. The wiring on this unit is all set so now I reclose it. I lay the indoor unit on the floor so that I can lay all the cables out and line it up directly under the hole in the wall. Next, I roll out the copper lines and try to get them as straight as possible. Next I will connect the coolant lines to the inside unit. I have to bend the connection lines and this should only be done once and not bent back and forth otherwise the lines can break. To connect the lines properly a specific torque is needed. The torque used depends on the diameter of the lines. This information differs with every unit and is provided in the manual. Normally, a torque wrench has a socket to fasten bolts. This doesn’t fit here, so I ordered a ⅜ inch crow foot set in order to tighten the connections with the adapter and the torque wrench. For the flared copper ends, I check that the contact point is nice and smooth. Then I connect the lines by hand. Here fits the 22mm crowfoot and this connection should be tightened with 19 foot pound. Due to the crowfoot, the torque wrench has a little more leverage, which makes the torque somewhat inaccurate, but it's not much. Now I connect the second line. I change the torque since this line has a different diameter. In addition to electric and coolant line, the line for condensed water is still missing. I put on the extension. This line should later run at the bottom off the bundle so that gravity can help the condensation run out well. With duct tape, I secure the insulation. After that, I put all the lines together in one bundle. I bought some insulation material for heating pipes. This didn't come with the units. It’s now wrapped as tight as possible around all the lines. This thin plastic tape was provided and I used it around the insulation to keep it tight and protected. It does not stick like duct tape but it’s still easy to put on. And this is how I complete the rest of it.About halfway down, I let the condensate line hang out. At the end of the bundle I use duct tape to keep the tape and insulation from unwinding. Now that I have the lines all set, it can now be pushed through the hole in the wall. For this you need two people, one who pushes the bundle through the hole and the other holding up the indoor unit. Then you can carefully pull from the outside until the indoor unit has reached the wall. Now I hang the unit on the wall bracket plate, so that the unit snaps down and fits smoothly against the wall. Back outside I use some insulating foam spray to fill in the gaps in the concrete wall. A neoprene compound came with the AC kit to seal the hole to the outside. The lines must be routed to the spot of the outdoor unit. For this I use 3 inch pvc pipes. This way the bundle of lines will be well protected and everything can be attached properly to the wall. The first 90 ° elbow I cut open to get it on. From then on, I push the pipes over the bundle one after the other. For the wall clamps I drill holes and use rawl plugs. I want the pipes to sit nice and straight so I use a level. I use three 30° elbows, for the 90° turn because these can easily be pushed over the bundle and I don't have to bend the lines so sharply. For the condense water line, I cut a hole in the pipe so that the water can escape onto the roof. Now that I know where the bundle ends I decide where I will mount the outdoor unit. I am holding it in place and check to see if all connections will fit. Then I mark the holes for the bracket rails. With the supplied 14mm rawl plugs and screws, I try to mount it. Unfortunately the screws are too thin and do not grasp properly even though they came with the kit. I get some thicker and shorter screws. Now it works and the rails are nice and tight. The unit will be vibrating during use so you want to make sure its tight and doesn't fly off the roof one day. The lower part of the mount is now attached to the rails. This hole set up works ok but doesn't seem very stable to me. I put the outdoor unit on the bracket. I try to attach it properly with the supplied screws and plastic grommets. It didn't work well so I ordered these anti-vibration feet. Those work great and installing is easy. Now the unit needs power. I run a separate wire from the house fuse box to the outdoor unit. For this I use an on-wall cord cover so that the wire is protected and it looks nice and neat. The connection to the device is simple, because the contacts are marked. On the same terminal, the connecting wire to the indoor unit is now connected, which runs through the bundle. Again, all connections and wires are premarked very well, so that you can’t go wrong here. The indoor unit gets its power through it so that it does not need an extra power connection. I close the wire terminal and the wall cord cover and the wiring is done. Now only the copper lines are left to connect. I connect them the same way as on the indoor unit. Again I use the torque wrench to be safe. Here it's important to hold the entire connector on the unit with a wrench because they can get damaged while tightening the nut with the torque wrench. Again, remember the different torques. If all lines are connected and properly tightened, a vacuum must be generated in the lines before the system can be put into operation. I decided to use a hand pump. This may seem unprofessional to some of you, but I was curious to see if it works. With the pump I set a vacuum of about -1 bar in the clear plastic hose and then I press onto the valve with a little piece of wire in the transparent hose so that I transfer the vacuum into the copper lines. It takes a while this way but if you don’t have access to other tools, this way might help you. And I was able to make it work. At the end I had a vacuum of about -0,97 bar and you are supposed to have - 1 bar. I waited 24 hours and checked again to make sure there are no leaks and the vacuum was still the same. Since it remains stable, I can now turn the valve open and have the factory filled coolant flow from the outdoor unit into the lines. I insulate the connecting lines to run the system more efficiently and hopefully save some energy. Now the installation is complete and I turn on the power with the separate fuse. On the remote control, I press the ON button and something is actually happening. The outdoor unit starts up and begins to build up pressure. The device has an automatic mode where a certain temperature is automatically maintained. There’s also a cooling mode, a drying mode, and a heating mode. The outdoor unit needs a couple minutes depending on the outside temperature. Then the indoor unit opens all the way and there is actually warm air coming out. I tried all the modes and they work fine. The inside fan is nice and quiet at the lowest level and does not bother me in the office. The unit allows the use of a wifi dongle, which I didn't install. I'm happy about my new AC and hope this video helps you. Overall I would recommend this product. This video was not sponsored, i bought the unit and necessary tools from amazon. So please check out the affiliate links in the video description. I am very thankful for any kind of support. Also I have to give the following legal notice for some countries: The device shown in this video was not put into service as shown, but by a certified company. Thanks for watching and see you next time.

Channel: CarlTheLandscapeGuy

Views: 3,978,248

Rating: 4.669292 out of 5

Keywords: ac, how to, install, installation, air, conditioner, condition, put up, diy, do it yourself, blus star, unboxing, setup, mrcool, mini, split, cooling, full, great, awesome, interesting, information, window, coolant, lines, copper, whirlpool, inverter, step by, btu, heat, pump, pioneer, ductless, true, gree, advanced, amateur, lg, rv, refill, senville, craftsman, tutorial, help, info, built, tools, home depot, lowes, hardware

Id: 2RDfAkmDId0

Length: 27min 53sec (1673 seconds)

Published: Sun Mar 31 2019