Adam Ondra Breaks Down The World's Hardest Climb 'Silence' 9c

but I think for me in terms of silence for example it was the the the most important was to recreate like the same Energy System that you do there so the the route is long but it's extremely bouldery so I haven't really done any like long urance I I just had to be sure that I climb 8B with a lot of knee bars before without getting tired at all and then you have this very short power endurance to climb this short yeah and so here we we'll pull up the Crux here for a second if you if you wouldn't mind just kind of talking me through what what was going on you know during this section of the climb here get us up to you so you're start so the whole clux is like so much Precision demanding it's really difficult already from the first move to climb the route like relaxed fast and not slipping off come on come on so even though like these free moves they look really easy it took me for ages to like get them consistently and this is the hardest Crux move which in isolation it's for sure the hardest but then the hardest part is like to be strong enough to do the do gem and to get it there like precisely enough I could still get the tow Jem be able to do maybe four or five moves more but then if I didn't get the Sten perfectly I was never really able to do this move or this move there are different methods uh it's probably better with the different methods they are Stefan Stefano and also yakob was tow jaming the right food which I tried a bit but then never really found the way how to get out of it uh it's prob they say it's probably a bit easier I I knew I had to get to the position where I was to jibbing like 100% strong to be able to like put it there precisely enough and then here in the Crux 2 I was just I got it sold out from the beginning I just thought like this is a section where I can never fall and in the end I never fell in in the end even if the the anchor of the route is like after the Crux one I think it still gets the same great that's just like a mental challenge to also look but I don't think it it incredibly challenging even coming out of the the jam there um obviously you climbed it very quickly and and very precisely but how hard was that sequence traversing over to the right there so the Crux one I I would say it's hard HC but if you add like five moves before which by itself are maybe only 7B bull PR V7 bull PR I think it's hard h plus for sure like it's the hardest bow problem I've ever done it's hard to tell it call it a bow problem because like this it's maybe 20 moves uh then you have a good good knee bar rest 88 plus 8B bow problem and this bow problem is maybe like 7B plus 7c but you have really good rests in between so it's not really that it make it makes much of a difference in terms of great all right y just a quick minute here to talk about every climber's favorite topic finger strength and how we can build it and I'm telling you guys this has changed the game for me check out the force board I've been using it for a while now and I am already seeing the difference in my finger endurance and finger strength and that's because it's allowing me to precisely dial in what I need in any given workout I mean it's tiny so I can throw it in my bag and take it to the crack for my warmup or to the gym or when I'm traveling it logs everything in the app automatically I can even see how I stack up against the community with regard to my finger strength it's gamifying the way I'm training Dr Tyler Nelson's been on the show to talk about how effective this kind of training is and I am loving it if you're a geek about training your fingers like I am you got to check out the force board it's cheaper than a pair of climbing shoes and it's going to level up how you train your fingers also if you use that link below and use code struggle at checkout you get 10% off and the show gets a little bit of love so get out there get those strong fies and start sended it's incredibly gymnastic I mean you you're you're constantly on this route throwing your feet above your head to get um some oppositional force and that kind of thing is that something that you worked on on the spray wall as well or was this just learned on the route both yeah but I I would say the the route despite its steepness is is really technical it's maybe a little bit less gymnastics than it looks like you know in like in some of the gymnastics things I don't know like front lever or stuff like this I'm not really that strong but for example these things are I would I they are not useless it's it's good that if you have it but they are maybe a bit less important than it than it looks like what about the exit climbing here it's still you're you're still trying really hard I mean there's there's some some power screaming going on as you're kind of going around this bulge here at the end it's may be me five I was really really nervous and I'm more like power screaming because I really don't want to mess up and the problem is here that my legs from all the knee baring before are just gone and I don't trust them anymore so what's going so sometimes like especially in the exit of the of the hard Roots I'm B screaming because I really want to make sure that I don't mess up got it yeah you just don't want to punt after being through the hardest stuff so what's going through your mind right now then as you're pulling around the corner I think my mind is just completely empty and here it's just so intense that I don't know what to say like usually I'm just screaming from Joy but I was silent yeah that I I'm glad you made that point because I I noted that as well in doing a ton of research for this rewatching a lot of these these um classic sends that you've had you're you typically when you flash something onsite something send a project you're screaming you're doing that classic Adam Andra you know fist pump and this kind of thing and here yeah just absolute silence is that where the name of the route came from yeah I was probably the reason because it was the most and it is the most important route that I've ever done and because it was probably so intense that's the only time where I couldn't really scream from Joy I was just too overwhelmed hey if you enjoyed this conversation here with the King Adam Andra guess what I talked with him for almost 2 hours on the podcast where he opened up and shared secrets to his training nutrition tactics and mental game he also shared some stories that I never heard before it's so so good if you're serious about rock climbing if you want to get better as a climber I invite you to check out the podcast you can listen to it for zero cost right there

Channel: The Struggle Climbing Show

Views: 23,072

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Id: tTRES9eMccY

Length: 8min 18sec (498 seconds)

Published: Mon Feb 05 2024