Adam Ondra #77: Sandstone / Extremely Scary Bolting

Where’s the hammer...for fuck’s sake? It took me 1.5 hour to do a hole for a ring. And it was the quickest one! We set out at 6 am and managed to send the route. It was the first time I took part. We hammered three rings and left as late as 10 pm. So tiring...I was barely able to walk back. You drive „navrtávák“ in, like that, you must feel it holds there. Sling towards the rock, clip it, so it doesn't fall. And you drill until you can, or until you think it's enough. As easy as pie... Oh yes, it's a pocket! Oh man...now quickly! Now pray, dude. Because it's askew. I'm redeemed! Ok...we're good! Hang into the rope, slowly! Don't look at it, it's good! Carefully with the left leg, it shouldn't be behind the rope. Don't look at it, it should be safe. Someone - come here, quickly! I have you, don't worry. Stabilize your body! That's it, now take the hammer! It's still higher, 20 more centimeters, behind the ledge. There are the crimps, higher up. Where the white mark is, there's the crimp! Come on! Fuck! A hook would help. He's good, he's ok. Stay close to the wall. Hopefully you will hold onto the crimp. Above you - it looks good. Higher! More to the left. Just get the biner. Don't tear it off! Yahoo!

Channel: Adam Ondra

Views: 292,606

Rating: 4.8923163 out of 5

Keywords: Adam Ondra, Climbing, Olympics, Tokyo 2020, Lead, Bouldering, Speed, Rock climbing, Road to Tokyo, vlog, motivation, olympic, sport, roadtotokyo, olympicsport, tokyodisciplines, olympicdisciplines, Tokyo 2021, bolting, sandstone, scary fall, drill, czech

Id: h-3m1jdR8rs

Length: 10min 51sec (651 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 03 2020

Reddit Comments

[u/igotbigballs]

Cool video, kind of shitty to do extra damage to the rock to climb in your preferred style though.

But whatever, I've taken trad whippers on soft sandstone cracks so I'm probably being a hypocrite.

[u/el_Topo42]

Some precarious whips with a power drill in this.

[u/testbay1234]

That fall while the drill was still in the wall and then got yanked towards his head was one of the sketchiest climbing clips I have ever seen. Couldve lost an eye.

[u/DustRainbow]

I've commented this elsewhere but I think it's kind of ironic they go to great lengths to preserve the old school ethics, only to cop out and use a drill.

[u/WhiskeyFF]

I mean I get that people want to abide by some arbitrary old school ethics, but this just doesn’t seem that cool or boastful to me. It’s not the same as leaving something like a crack unbolted. “Conquering” a sport climb just doesn’t have the same ring to it. Needlessly dangerous and convoluted way to bolt something. Just rap in and place them safety.