ABS wheel speed sensor fix

everybody out in YouTube land we're going to show you how to change out the wheel speed sensor on an O six Chevrolet Silverado the problem we've been having with this is that as the air truck slows down the analogue brakes think the wheels are locked up and it pulls the brakes off and so it makes it a little hard to stop prepare this is a common issue with the Chevrolets and I'm going to show you how to fix it today first of all we're going to test it I'm going to show you how to test this out the sensor so we're going to start here with that okay we're just going to use a regular digital digital multimeter here today set to the AC volts setting and you're gonna be looking for millivolts in this so we're going to set this down here and we're going to connect up to the wire that comes out of the wheel you're going to look for a wire that comes out here that's your wheel speed sensor on these and what happens to these is they get corroded underneath that sensor it lifts up the sensor a little bit too high from the reluctor wheel and then the magnet on the Hall effect sensor won't pick it up so we're going to take in these little probes you can get a Radio Shack we're just going to tie into the sensor here put one on one side one on the other side it doesn't really matter which one is which as long as you get them both on there then we're going to hook up to the meter now that we're hooked up here make sure those don't touch each other we're going to spin the wheel and you're going to see we should see around 350 millivolts in here as you can see on the meter we have nothing so what's happening is that Hall effect sensor is not able to pick up a reluctant wheel inside the ABS mechanism so our goal is to fix this so the computer can sense that the wheel is actually turning so here we go okay so we're going to start off today in order to get at the wheel speed sensor we got to take off the brake calipers and you got to get the rotor off because the wheel speed sensor sits underneath that rotor and I did this first time this was all rusted on here so a good idea to take some PB Blaster and spray in here let it work for a while and then the rotor should come off much much easier we start out by taking off there's if you bolt there yeah we are here come on the labels will come right off you just end our way that'll help Ralphie it's a great time to replace brakes if you need to we're gonna set caliper side now we have a rotor rotor come on it's a little bit stuck we'll get it off though yeah hammer here no it's gonna come you cringe out there but here we go I live in the Midwest so I have two breasts that's why somewhat tricky god never have now what you're looking at here Houston bring this up here and catch this little black thing right here see it right there is the wheel speed sensor you have to get up on top so you can see this stand up right here's the wheel speed sensor that little device right there and what's happening is you will pull this out we'll take a look at it and we'll diagnose it and we'll see what's going on here we're going to spin it one more time we're going to take a look at the multimeter and we're going to see if we have any voltage as you can see we have no voltage whatsoever coming out of that sensor at all so we need to have a bad sensor or it's not picking up off the reluctor wheel all right so we're going to take this out this is a number five metric five millimeter metric allen wrench to get this out this is a new sensor because I thought I had to buy the sensor for it last time I don't think the sensor was bad I think it just was a Kuroda to corroded up here we're going to pull this little bolt out got to be very careful when you pull this thing out because it's made of plastic it fits kind of tight and it's a very good chance that you can break it off so you've got to pull it out a little gently it's got a little overhang on it so be aware that as it comes out come on kind of sideways with it and that's what it looks like right there these are spacer rings which came with the new hub and I think that's the main problem so this is clean all the grease off it this is your Hall effect sensor this is a little magnet in here and it runs across if you look down in the hole I don't know if AUSA can get my Austin's my videographer today if we can get down in the hole there and look straight down there you can see the teeth on the reluctor wheel can you point the camera down in there Austin can you see those holes in there you see in there and kind of see the TDA you see the teeth got in there going to run a little bit right down there that's what that Hall effect sensor picks up if it's too far off of that it simply will not pick those those pulses up and therefore the computer thinks that the wheel is stopped and of course with analog brakes if the things the wheel of stuff is going to let the brakes go so that it can so that it can know what kind of set here well let the wheel go there you know how any log brakes work so what we're going to do here you can see there's a lot of corrosion around here this is what happens with these Sherri's especially we live in the Midwest any salt environments you have a bunch of corrosion that sits around this hole begins to lift this sensor out of the hole and then you get you have no signal there and you hear getting your abs light or you have the same problem I did I didn't have an ABS light but what I did have was the brakes would just quit working at slow speeds and which I think we can all agree is not a good thing so we're going to clean this hole up a little bit we're going to start by packing this with some just with a paper towel just something to block the hold up here just something to block the hole up here and so that we can not get dirt down into the hub you don't want dirt down your wheel hub there and we're going to take some sandpaper or a wire brush and we're going to clean all this corrosion and rust off of here and we're going to reassemble it okay so we got the hole plugged that's we don't get any dirt down there it's just regular sandpaper just a wet/dry sandpaper you can use a wire brush if you want I have a wire wheel over there on a drill but I can't get it over this so it doesn't work so I get to do it by hand you just come in here start sanding it rust off get that corrosion out of there that's what's supposed to be so that that sensor will sit flat against the hub housing so I'm going to cut the video off here for right now and we back with it we begin to reassemble okay so we're back again I've got it all sanded off for the most part here awesome you can move in here a little bit you take a look in here you can see it's mostly down to form this very metal I'm going to pull my plug out of here so that it's clearly out there you can see that was all rusty and it is for the most part clean now and that is where the problem becomes is getting that rust out of there so once that rust is out of there now we're going to put this back in now and you put this sensor back in the hole you get the little o-ring around here and when you deal with oring x' you got to put a little grease on it because you don't want that orbiting to rip as you put it back in also a little bit of dielectric grease just go around the go around the o-ring with it and go around the over again then we're going to put it around the the silver part of the of the hole here and this is a corrosion control and dielectric grease you can just pick up at O'Reilly's or somewhere see that's what it is right there prevent erosion great stuff use it on all your plugs stuff like that keeps it all nice and clean and connected properly see 90% of the problems that happen with these cars now the electric cars and all your sensors is just literally due to the fact of corrosion on the sensor itself so if you have a problem usually it can be solved by searching out the sensors to the system and making sure they're working properly now we're going to stick this back in the hole here again be very careful because you can break that plastic tip off and that's what you don't want now it's back in the hole here and I took the spacers out these are the spaces that came with it and they were underneath it so I took them out what you need to listen for is it doesn't hit that that tip of the Hall effect sensor does not hit the reluctor wheel in there so we kind of turn it a bit here and we listen and it is definitely not hitting the reluctor wheel so we're fine in there now it's just a case of reassembling put the screw back in it and I lost my wrench it's where I spend half of my life looking for tools when I'm doing a project I try to stay out of light here because it's a little easier to see we just tighten this down I don't honestly know what the torque is on this I know it's not much so don't get crazy with torquing that down now now we're going to take a look at our multimeter again it's still hooked up and we're going to see if we have any see if we have any voltage now being produced out of this wheel and let's take a look here can you see the meter in there Austin is it okay yep okay so we're going to tend to spin the wheel now and you can see that we have about 1.2 about 120 millivolts it's still not as high as it should be oh there we go get each down here and see we're starting to turn there now this meter is in volts right now so your millivolts your car's going to be hundreds hundreds of volts so right now we're about a hundred and twenty millivolts still not exactly where we want to be about 130 there we really want to be about 350 millivolts so we're going to take a look at this again and see if there's something else going on but we'll come back and we'll see if we can get this up we're supposed to be all right I went through and I wept it down again scrubbed a little more got a little closer into the reluctor wheel and when you spin the wheel now we end up with this try to do without busting my finger like I did last time and I was getting close to 2 mil or 200 millivolts out of it so we're coming up about 180 to 200 millivolts I got 200 out of it earlier it's sitting a little bit lower than the other side there we got 200 out of it so it is sending the pulse now now that's up from zero it was not detecting anything the last time we did this so the 200 millivolt increase just by taking the corrosion off taking those cells spacers out and letting us get closer to the reluctor wheel now it's worth mentioning that this is a diesel pickup and on these so sixes in the old fives I think it's the old fives had problem they loved to go through wheel bearings and so when you buy the hub have already had to put a new hub on here in the hub comes with the bearing in it it also comes with a sensor in it so a lot of times in these start having problems it's because the hub is is that bearings beginning to go the hub wall is a little bit and it tends to give an erroneous readings in your ABS system this one however I've been waiting for this is about 60,000 miles on these bearings typically they don't last that long but these ones seem to be lasting long I was trying to wait it out wait until I get red and replace my bearing to do this but alas no such luck the bearing is still operating as disclosed to you and I guess that's a good thing that's about the size of it there putting it back together the same way you took it apart put the rotor on and I will put that on now throw it around put your brake caliper on it's the reverse of everything that you did before and I mean it should work for a bit much better should work fine to be truthfully I don't know if there are sensors in the rear brakes I think there are we're going to go back and check the rear brakes and see if those put out pulses as well and hopefully take care of this whole ABS system today all in all how to do both front wheels with this it's probably about an hour job it's not too bad at all pretty minor skill set retired now would be a good time to replace the bricks if you need them you got everything apart you might as well if you need them but that's about it for now I hope this helps somebody out there too to get the fixed and get your abs problems fixed how to test the sensor again you set your digital multimeter to the AC volts setting and what you're looking for is AC pulses alternating current now you just attach your probes one side to one side it doesn't matter which side on your on your connector up there that comes out of the comes out of the wheel and it connects right up in there you'll see it right up behind the wheel well right up in here we'll put the caliper back on you can see right up in here this area is right where it connects very easy to get to very easy to find no problems whatsoever so that's it good luck with your project and I hope it all works well feel free to leave any comments you like below and I'll try to answer questions if you have questions

Channel: Matt Waggoner

Views: 1,223,092

Rating: 4.725348 out of 5

Keywords: Chevy, silverado, 2500, abs, wheel, speed, sensor, brakes

Id: Ld5-eoYGAiA

Length: 14min 45sec (885 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 20 2014