A Trex Deck Transformation | How to build a Deck | Framing | Stairs | Privacy Wall | Cable Railing

[Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] hey there and welcome to DIY projects with Pete in today's episode we're going to walk through the process of how this deck was built and I'll share with you my complete trex deck transformation from start to finish if you enjoy the video and find it helpful please give it a thumbs up and subscribe and let's go ahead and get started our canvas for today's project is my split-level home built in 1979 that's looking a little dated we'll start the outdoor living space transformation by restoring the existing deck which involves removing the old and rotted decking replacing joists and fixing up that frame and then laying down new composite decking we'll then do an overview of the new deck construction which involves planning out the area pouring some footings installing posts working on some of the framing connecting to the existing deck to form a wraparound l-shaped deck laying down some more decking adding the fascia board pouring a landing pad for the stairs then making the steps creating a little privacy wall preparing the deck for a hot tub welding some custom posts installing cable railing and cedar top rails over the posts and then lastly staining the decks frame to finish off the project I want to give a big THANK YOU to trex decking company for sponsoring today's video and helping make this project a reality this is the third trex deck I've built over the years and they've all held up amazing here's a look at the living room area right after I bought the home it had some real small windows and then the old deck was definitely in need of some TLC I had a vision to really open up the home and to create a cool indoor and outdoor space so I started by installing a wood-burning stove that pivots 360 degrees so you can see the flame wherever you're sitting inside or out next I tore down the old wall installed a beam and framed out the area for a 16-foot wide bay of glass panels and a patio door more windows and doors would be added to the back side of the home so I started tearing away the first row of decking so the windows and the old siding could be removed many of the old screws are rusted and stripped so I had to pry up the boards to get them out of the a-and then the pain on the decking was peeling real bad and there were quite a few rotted boards so it was definitely time to replace the old redwood decking the old railing was looking pretty clunky as well so we tore that down an eight-foot wide patio door replaced an old six-foot wide door then we added a six-foot wide opening for a window above the sink one more patio door was installed and then that completed the majority of the windows and doors in the patio area we worked on siding the back portion of the house with some 1 by 4 channel siding and then it was time to start doing the deck I picked up a few deck building books to help out with some questions I had and just to get a good idea about some of the best practices to help make sure the decks up to code and if you choose to do a trex deck they also have some great resources available we're going to wrap the deck around the north side of the home creating an l-shaped deck so we started by figuring out the height for the ledger board siding was going to be put up soon so we wanted to at least get a ledger board at the correct height to side around and then we used a level and then did a chalk line to mark out the proper placement the ledger board was then installed using heavy-duty leg screws and we had to add some additional blocking inside the home to get a real solid connection once that ledger board was up we took a little time to catch up on some demo work to take down the old deck and used a sledgehammer to make quick work of removing the old railing the siding started go up and then we did a little fine-tuning to the ledger board by adding some drip edge and flashing the chimney also needed some TLC so I did some patch work and used a concrete paint to give it a nice fresh look the metal rough materials came in and so we did a shingle tear off and then installed a standing seam hidden fastener metal roof while we waited a couple days for the new trex decking to be delivered next my buddy Dayton stopped over to help plan the rough layout for the new deck on the north side of the home we measured out for the 14 foot by 36 foot deck which is about 500 square feet the plan is to build metal posts do cable railing and a cedar top rail so I chopped all the old posts off using an electric chainsaw to make quick work of it Kenyon Noble delivered the trex decking later that afternoon and I got to meet the marketing crew Bridger and Bob who stopped over to see what the project was looking like we had an October snowstorm that night so we were dealing with some colder weather the next few days but my buddy Nick who's on my hockey team helped out and we were able to start getting an exact layout for the posts so we'd be able to frame the deck out in the fall the biggest thing was to make sure the deck would be perfectly square to the house so we measured out took some diagonal measurements and then used string lines and paint to mark the locations for each post will be using 6x6 posts two by twelve beams and two by 10:00 joists for this deck posts are spaced about every six feet and we'll be doing two rows of posts we didn't have ideal conditions but we needed to keep on track with the project so we started drilling the post holes we used a 15 inch bit on the skid steer so we'd have a little wiggle room when putting the 12-inch sano tubes into them and we went down about 48 inches so we were able to get below the frost line now for many of you you'll be able to get by with a smaller posts and smaller sano tubes if your deck is lower to the ground so you may be able to simply rent a two-person post hole auger for your local rental store we shoveled a few inches of gravel into the bottom of each hole and then put each Sano tube into the hole levelled them and then filled the soil back around each tube to keep them in place the next step was to fill each tube with concrete I picked up some 80 pound bags of concrete at the hardware store and then we started mixing I purchased a four cubic foot concrete mixer which has more than already paid off after doing all the tubes the concrete pad for the stairs landing and then other projects around the house it made filling the tubes very doable and we were able to fill all 12 in about three to four hours we vibrated the concrete with some rebar and since it was a colder day we used warm water for mixing the concrete and then covered the concrete with some insulation while it cured once this was done we went back to tearing off the old peeling and rotting deck boards that were put on many many years ago whoever built the deck used a variety of screws some had Phillips heads some were square heads and if you even have the star pattern so most screws were completely rusted through and had stripped heads so getting them out was a bit of a pain and what we wanted to salvage the wood as best as possible we ended up needing to pry up or cut out sections to get it off now that the decking was all off we were able to take a look at all of the old joists and we found most of the tops of them were rotted and soft so we ended up having to remove all of them and replace them with new pressure-treated 2x8 joists I listed the old wood on Craigslist for free to see if anyone could still use it and I actually had a couple people come grab the wood who planned on cleaning it up repurposing it and using it for wood projects and then one was going to use it to build a rustic food truck floor the existing beams were still in good shape so I remove some of the broken screws and old metal hardware using a cut-off blade while we're at it we used Trek's joist and beam tape to protect the top of the board's to help extend their life and prevent against future rot next we started putting in the new 2 by 8 pressure treated joists and most of the existing joist hangers were still in good condition but we did need to make some slight adjustments to a few of them and we replaced all the old screws and nails with number 10 Simpson Strong Tie structural screws after a few days the concrete was ready to install the posts on so we use string lines and a square to mark where each post would be mounted and an old fashioned plumb bob can come in handy too next we used a hammer drill and used 5/8 inch concrete anchor bolts to secure each post base bracket in place we hauled over each of the 6x6 posts and began setting them into each bracket you'll want to use a good long level to help ensure each post goes up correctly and this is definitely a two-person job we then use scrap 2x4 boards to hold each 6x6 in place while we secured each bracket with structural screws and until the initial beams were installed it's real important that everything is lined up close to perfect so the beams and framing will all be square and match up well we used heavy-duty post bases to hold the 6x6 board secure and fastened using those structural screws again the 2 by 12 beams needed to be put up next and to prepare to cut the notches in the 6x6 posts for the two by twelve beams we used a rotary laser level the laser shoots out and the receiver will have a solid beeping tone when it's lined up perfectly with the laser we put a mark on each post and then double-checked each mark with the string line to make sure our markings were correct and ready to cut the notches out the notches were made to fit doubled up two by twelve boards which form the beams and Nick used a circular saw to make as many of the cuts as he could since it makes the cleanest and straightest cuts I then followed up with a sawzall to finish the cuts that needed a longer blade length a couple of the notches needed some cleaning so I used an electric chainsaw to smooth the back of the notch all 12 notches were complete and it was then time to put the two by twelve boards in place we set them in each notch double checked each was level and then secured them in place the two by 12 board seams were staggered and they secured each post together and then they'll hold up the joists so your deck is going to be super sturdy I feel like the notch method is a bit more work compared to some of the other techniques for attaching the beams but I like the look of it and it's a real solid connection the downside is everything needs to be spot-on as you can't simply readjust the boards once installed as you could using some other techniques and so use the technique that best fits your project we temporarily removed the ledger board to get some flashing tape behind it I wish I had more on hand but I was able to get one long strip which was better than none and then we put the joist hangers on every 16 inches on center and then put the ledger board back in place we used the structural screws to securely attach the board to the framing and blocking inside the home the next step was to cut off the excess six by six posts so you'll be left with two lines of beams that are ready to support the joist the end joist near the chimney was put in place and then we measured 16 inches on center and marked each beam where we'd install a hurricane clip the clips will be in line with the joist hangers on the house and you'll want to take a look at the boards and make sure the crown side is up then you can begin setting each joist in place this is a pretty rewarding process as it goes pretty quick and once they're all in place you can attach them to the hurricane clips using nails or those strong tie structural screws you'll burn through a lot of screws fast attaching all those joist hangers and clips to the joists but once it's complete your decks going to be nice and solid and having all those joists up means you're one step closer to putting on that decking Nick trimmed up the ends of the beams using a circular saw and the next step was to install a double joist and joist hangers where the old deck would connect to the new deck now unfortunately winter decided to come in at full force and I also had a hockey rink project I needed to build so we decided to finish up and then to resume in the spring we got started on the project again in May we picked up where we left by chalking a line to determine where the joist would need to be cut and I didn't get it on camera but we did add blocking toward the middle and ends of the deck to further strengthen the deck and to prevent boards from warping I used a speed square to line up the circular saw so I could get a nice straight cut for each board and once I had an affords cut I test fit a rim joist to see that things were all looking good and the joist all ran up to it nicely so I continued cutting all the joist I then attached the last couple to buy 10 rim joists using exterior grade screws at each joist end and the decking is going to overhang the two by twelve beam by about one foot prior to putting down the decking I cut some boards down to about 4 inches in width that I attached to the outer joist and then did some additional blocking under them now these boards will serve as a spot for the picture frame to rest on and for the ends of the decking to sit on you'll see what I mean later by picture framing but it's basically a way to make the decks perimeter look really nice and to hide the butt ends of each board once the blocking was complete I used treks joist tape to protect the joists and some of the blocking from moisture this takes a little extra time but the joist tape will go a long ways and helping protect your joists from rotting over time it's easy to apply and well worth it in my opinion as it's going to do a great job prolonging the life of your deck the trex decking I'm using for this project as part of the treks enhanced Naturals line and the color is called rocky harbor it has some real neat variation in color and it ended up tying into the house perfectly I started by building the picture frame of the deck the corners are mitered at 45 degrees and the picture frame boards do not have a groove on the edges which gives the deck more of a finished look I secured the perimeter boards using composite decking screws and the decking should overlap the framing about a half-inch if you plan to add a decorative 3/4 inch thick fascia board around the perimeter you'll want to overlap the framing about one and a quarter inches to accommodate for the fascia that will be put on at a later time I measured and marked a notch out part of the perimeter board so it could fit around the chimney and you'll likely have a few obstacles to notch out for as well after getting the picture framing done the decking process will speed up quite a bit for the first row in after picture framing I started using boards with grooves on each side now they do make clips that can be used on these outer boards so that every screw is hidden but I just used one composite decking screw on this first board in after picture framing and then started using the hidden fasteners on the groove side toward the house here's an up-close shot I had Britt helped me out with that we did a bit later in the project but it gives you a good view of how the hidden fasteners are installed you simply insert them in the groove and then fasten into each joist these are great to use and they make the deck look so clean since there's only a few screw holes around the perimeter if you go the route I did and don't use the clips I continued installing rows until I had a decent sized platform to stand on which made it easier to apply the joist tape to the higher areas of the deck so I applied it to some of the sections I hadn't applied it to yet this section of the deck is just under 36 feet wide and so I was able to span the whole distance when using two boards one that was 20 foot and one that was 16 foot long however I did stagger the seams for each row so boards next to each other never landed on the same joist and so an H pattern didn't happen I'd used either 2 or 3 boards for each row the hidden fasteners are going to maintain a quarter inch gap between the sides of the boards which makes it really easy to keep the boards at the proper distance from each other and a carpenter's pencil is typically a quarter inch thick by a half inch wide so you can just double check that the gap is about a quarter inch by sticking the pencil between the boards you'll want to cut about 3/16 of an inch off the end of the board before measuring it this is going to square up the board and give you a nice clean cut since the factory cut on each end isn't perfect then measure to get the correct distance so it butts up to the other board properly the hidden fastener typically slides into the groove on the side of the board's pretty easily but you may need to put a little pressure on the board with your foot to hold it in while you're installing the fastener or just have someone else help you out here you can see the first seven rows are installed and things are going smoothly now Trek's recommends keeping an eighth inch gap between the board ends when installing them if it's above 40 degrees outside and then to do a 3/16 inch gap if it's below 40 degrees now this is because the Trek's is going to heat up and expand a bit as the temperature warms up and then if installing the decking when it's hot you want the gap to be smaller around an eighth of an inch or so since it's going to shrink when it's cooler periodically I checked the distance between the house and the board to see if the boards were going down straight I was within about a half inch throughout but if you do start to vary a little you can slightly cheat the quarter inch gap between the sides of the boards to help fix it it was about sixty degrees when I was installing the board's so I kept the gap at about an eighth of an inch I tried to maintain a similar gap size against the picture frame where the end of the board butts up to it and aimed for an eighth of an inch since it was above 40 degrees now here's a quick shot showing how water will just bead right up on the joist tape and it really protects that joist from getting saturated and from rotting down the road as you get closer to the house you'll want to test fit the boards to see if you'll be able to use a full board against the house or if you'll need to rip it down and width on the table saw now Trek's does recommend keeping about a quarter inch to half inch gap between the wall and the closest board it did work out that I was able to use a full board against the house but that's definitely not always the case and more often than not I'll actually cut a board down and width to fit this floor installation pull bar tool worked really well to pull the boards into the groove that were next to obstacles or near the house I used composite decking screws on the side of the board nearest the house to fasten down that last board that completed the decking on the new 36 by 14 foot deck so I cleaned things up had a little burger break and called it a day the next day I started working on preparing the frame of the old deck for the decking that would eventually go on it I had forgot to put beam tape on in a few areas under the joists so I cut a few smaller pieces to cover the beam and then had plenty of tape so I just put it over the old posts as well I did need to adjust a few of the hangers and then I swapped out all the old screws that they used and put in some new structural screws I plan to put a hot tub near the privacy wall area which is near the corner of the deck so you can see that I used double joist in this area to strengthen the deck where the hot tub would eventually go hurricane ties were then added to secure the joist to each beam one of the joists was cut a little long so I trimmed it and then replaced the outer board I then used exterior-grade screws to connect each joist and some of the boards did have a little warping going on so I built a jig out of some scrap lumber and that made it super easy to straighten any boards that were causing any issues joist tape was then applied to the rest of the joist and it's really going to help keep this deck in good shape for a long long time I used the wider tape meant for beams to go over the double joist where that hot tub is going to be placed and then aim a snowstorm moved in and you can see this tape is definitely going to do its job I put some of the boards on the joists to create a temporary platform and I did notice a couple joists that were about 1/4 inch or so low now since composite decking is quite a bit more flexible than wood you will want to do your best to try and get every joist as close to even as you can and uneven joists can cause a deck floor to look kind of wavy so take your time to ensure things are lined up as best as possible I did decide to add a set of blocking at the midsection of the deck to further strengthen it and prevent warping now each board was cut to fit between the joists and then screwed in from the sides in order to add decking right up to the power box enclosure I added some blocking so the ends of the decking would have something to rest on [Music] if you plan on doing top mounted posts for railing you'll want to measure and then determine where each post will go so you can add blocking underneath the deck to ensure the post is really secure when installed I decided to put the posts every four feet and then measured and marked where each would go now you will need to work around joists and existing posts so you'll want to just space them as evenly as possible for the blocking I used some of the scrap 2x8 boards cut them to fit between the joists and then sandwich the two boards together with screws I then secured them to the joists and it is easier to do the blocking before the decking is installed but it typically can be done afterward as you see me doing on my new deck since I'm doing the picture frame technique for the border around the stack as well I created another platform at the end of the deck for the boards to rest on you'll also see some 4x4 cedar posts that I added and these are bolted to the beams and they'll be the posts for a privacy and win wall that's going to be near the hot tub I also blocked around these posts to make sure they're solid as a rock now it was time to start installing the decking on the old deck I put a bunch of boards on the joists just to give me a temporary platform to work on now I won't go real in-depth on installing the decking again since we already did that a decent amount with the last deck but I will try to mention a couple new tips that weren't covered the perimeter board without the groove was fastened down using those composite decking screws and it overlaps the rim joist about an inch and a quarter to accommodate for the three-quarter inch fascia board that's going to be installed later this way it's going to overlap that fascia board by about a half-inch I did need to notch out part of the perimeter board to fit around each of the cedar posts now when making notches I like to use a circular saw to first make the longer cuts so they're as straight as possible and then I'll use a jig saw to finish off the cuts the second-row went in and then I got to row three where I had to do some more notching have a speed square and a pencil or a marker handy and try to get a nice fit with an even gap between the wood and the post Britt came outside and helped me put down the rest of the decking for this project and she got the hang of things really quick having a second person helps out a ton and it makes the decking go down about twice as fast so we were able to crank out about ten rows before we noticed we had some visitors the Sun was starting to set and a big herd of elk decided to say hi so we decided to call it a day and do some wildlife viewing we had a relaxing Sunday morning and got our coffee in before finishing up the last portion of the deck here's an up-close shot showing me cut about 3/16 of an inch off the end of the board as you can see that factory edge isn't perfect so the cut will ensure everything is square and that it looks clean it was another warm day and above 40 degrees so we kept the recommendation of 1/8 inch gap between the ends of the boards now if you do have boards that are being stubborn to fit you can use a pull bar a rubber mallet or even a scrap piece of tracks to help out the boards usually slide in pretty well but if a joist is a bit low or high it might need a couple taps the electrical box cover needed to be notched around so I used a circular saw and jigsaw to quick make the cuts while britt installed the hidden fasteners i'd take the measurements and make the cuts so we had a pretty efficient process going on I put trex decking right up to the outdoor faucet and then we'll build a little door for it later as we finished up with the last full board I had a bit bigger gap than I'd wanted between the last board and the house so I ripped a narrow strip of tracks pre-drilled through it and then attached it to the joist with some screws and that completed the restoration of the decking on the older deck so we cleaned off all the mud and debris that we'd tracked on there throughout the day we gave Halina a bath and then rinsed off everything with a hose and the Trek's does clean up super easily which is really nice the temps cooled down quite a bit that evening but we wanted to get in some cornhole toss so we got out the board's now if you're interested in building these boards I'll have a link to the plans in the description below the next day I got out the stain that was used for the siding on my home and rolled a couple coats on all four sides of the two by ten rough cedar fascia board I thought the fascia board would really help dress up the deck kind of hide that ugly pressure-treated wood and then tie the deck into the house I cut 45-degree angles for the corners and then 30 degree angles where the boards would butt up against each other next I started to plan out the stairs I marked the area for the landing and then built the forms for the concrete out of two by six boards and then did a little digging and while I was at it Peter from Trek's was in town and he dropped by to say hi and see how the project was going he helped with some of the planning for the deck and he was a great resource to have I used a sawzall to remove the old steps and then prepared to pour the new slab now the blade on my bucket needs to be replaced as I could barely dig so I put on the pallet forks and loosened up the soil that way I move some of the dirt and then put the form in place I then leveled it and then secured it with stakes I got some larger sized gravel to put in the bottom of the form and then I began mixing concrete in the electric mixer the slab is three feet by about 10 feet and then four inches thick and I used eighteen eighty pound bags of concrete to make the slab I gave the slab some time to cure and then remove the forms and started to build the stairs I bought two by twelve pressure treated boards to build the stair stringers out of and I had to do a few calculations to figure out the tread height and how to cut the stringers but it wasn't actually that bad I'll be doing a more detailed video on the step building process soon but I did want to just show you the overall process in this video to give you an idea of what's involved you'll want to have a carpenter's square for this process and to pick up some stair gauges that clamp onto the square as they'll just make the process go a lot quicker and after you complete the first stringer use it as a template to trace around for all the remaining stringers I did a stringer every 12 inches on center there are a lot of different ways to build steps and to connect stringers but this method worked well for my situation and was straightforward I basically connected the two outer stringers with boards and then notched out the remaining stringers and fastened them to the boards every 12 inches I reinforced the deck where the stairs would be mounted attach them and then used tapcon screws to secure the lower portion of the steps to the concrete I used cedar boards for the risers and then cut the decking to the same width the decking for the steps isn't grooved so I used screws to attach it to the stringers and a speed square comes in handy to help keep the screws lined up nicely the tread and the risers overlapped the outer stringer by about an inch and a half next it was time to build the privacy and win fence when I bought the property it had a bunch of old fences made of 1 by 6 boards that I took down and I harvested some pretty cool boards that have been sitting in a pile just waiting to be used for something so I decided to use them to add some character to this fence I cut them to size and then attached them to the cedar posts one by one the fence went up quick and it was really fun to be able to repurpose the old boards from the property before the rails were installed I was able to score a free hot tub that needed a little TLC to get going again and a hot tub is a great addition to a deck and you can usually find pretty good deals on used hot tubs and even free hot tubs on Craigslist you just have to be able to move it I gave the tub of rinse and then we slid the tub from the trailer on to the deck and then I started removing the rotted boards once all the boards were pried off and removed I pulled back the plastic cover to check out what was underneath it and things looked pretty decent so I put the cover back on and then built a new frame out of 2x4 pressure-treated lumber next we slid it in place on the deck and then I stained the sides of the base to match the deck and the tub had some scratches which we think were from a dog getting in the tub so I used some buffing compound to remove them which worked really well and then we replace some of the Jets on the tub a couple other parts and we were in business the last big part of the project was to build a railing for the deck I bought 20 foot long sticks of 2-inch square tubing for the posts and then four inch wide by a quarter inch thick flat bar to make the top and bottom plates out of I cut the tubing and flat bar down to size using a metal cut-off saw I cleaned up the cuts with a flap wheel on a grinder next I used a drill press to put a hole in each corner of the bottom plate and then I did the same thing for the top plates but used a little bit smaller holes I made a wooden template to mark for the quarter inch cable railing holes that were then drilled using the press and space them evenly so there would be a total of nine cables spaced about every three to three and a half inches apart from each other the bottom plate and top plate were then welded onto the post before adding a finish I cleaned up each post to prepare for painting I sprayed on two to three coats of matte black paint and it looked real sharp our local powder coating companies were about two to three weeks out and I just wanted to get the railing completed and installed but if you have the time to get them powder-coated it's going to give you a longer lasting finish and it honestly doesn't cost that much i pre-drilled holes through the decking and then use three-eighths inch galvanized bolts washers and nuts to secure each post in place I used five and a half inch long bolts that went through the decking and then three inches of blocking underneath there was plenty of threading to secure the post from underneath with a washer and nut and once bolted down these things were very solid take your time to level each individual post so they're all in a straight line and our level you Shem underneath the post with a washer - if needed to get the post perfectly level next I cut the 12 and 14 foot long 2 by 6 cedar boards to form the top railing I installed this prior to putting in the cable since this would help in preventing the outer posts from pulling in toward the top of the posts when tension is applied to that cable railing I used 30 degree cuts at each seam and connected them at the center of the posts they were then secured from the underside using a total of four one and a quarter inch long heavy-duty screws I bought the eighth inch stainless steel cable and rolls of five hundred feet and threaded it through each hole the cable is easily cut using a cable cutter and then crimped using a hydraulic crimping tool the hardware was real easy to install and you simply tighten each cable by turning the nut for the stair railing I cut a 30-degree angle on the top side of each post welded it on attach the post to the deck steps and then place the cedar railing on top I ended up re-engineering how I was going to do the stair cabling since it needed to be angled and I didn't show it in this video but I will be putting up a tutorial focused on how to build a railing and posts so if you're looking for more information to make your own cable railing keep your eyes open for that video on my channel soon lastly I used a dark charcoal solid color stain to dress up and protect the posts and beams it really made a difference in helping tie in the deck with the house and made the pressure-treated wood look good I'm going to do a clear coat on the cedar railing and a few other finishing touches but other than that it was time to start enjoying the deck [Music] all right thanks so much for tuning in I hope you enjoyed checking out today's video of the trex deck transformation and I hope it inspires you to either go out and build a new deck or to restore an old one now we absolutely love how this deck turned out we've been using it all the time and we can't wait to host more friends and family as soon as things get back to normal but we love how it's low-maintenance it's super easy to clean and we know what's going to last for years to come so if you're in the market for a decking material I'd highly recommend checking out trex decking material you can find more information and learn more at Trek's com now I'd love to hear about your plans for building a deck or what you have going on with your patio space and how its transformed your living area and if you have any ideas or tips that you'd like to share about your deck building experience please comment below alright thanks again for watching and Cheers from Montana [Music]

Channel: DIY PETE

Views: 802,773

Keywords: DIY Projects, DIY Pete, DIY deck, how to build a deck, how to build cable railing, diy cable railing, cable railing ideas, top mounted deck posts, how to build deck railing, diy deck privacy fence, how to build a deck privacy wall, how to build deck steps, how to prepare a deck for a hot tub, how to build a trex deck, trex deck tips, diy trex deck

Id: dHf4-H0bGP4

Length: 37min 22sec (2242 seconds)

Published: Sun Jun 28 2020