A Pickleball Bag?! That And More! Let's Make The Reporter Sling From Kandou Patterns!

hey everyone and welcome to the Oakland's YouTube channel in today's tutorial we're going to make an adorable adorable Sling from one of my absolute favorite favorite bag designers today we're going to make the reporter bag and this pattern comes to us from Candy Patterns now as all candy patterns are it's just perfect it's absolutely perfect this pattern can actually be made one of two ways you can make it as a cross body bag or you can make it as a sling we are big sling lovers over here so I decided to make the sling version and in today's tutorial we're going to make another sling version so if you were hoping to see the cross body version I don't have that for you I'm sorry but this bag is so stinking cute so let's just run through all the pockets and everything first we have this adorable little slip pocket right on the front this is a really cute detail and the pocket is tight enough where you can put your phone in it for example here's my phone and I can just slide my phone right in there and it's nice and tucked in but it's not so like open that I have to worry about it falling out and then you have a zipper pocket on the front here that is nice and deep it goes all the way to the bottom of the bag on the back we have our sling strap and then we also have another slip pocket with a snap snap is optional so if you don't have the snap Hardware tool set things like that you can still make this bag you can just make it a slip pocket without the snap at the top here we have our sling accent and then we have a little d-ring right here so you can easily hang this up think you know if you're in a place like a bathroom maybe and you need to hang up your bag this is a great little tool here to have on the front another optional detail is this little swivel hook which I really like cuz you can clip like an ID a badge your keys things like that to this if you need quick and easy access on the top we have two zipper P we open those up and then on the inside we have a large slip pocket on the back panel and then we have a couple of smaller slip pockets on the front panel and you can get very creative with this there's no more zipper Pockets inside if you want to add a zipper pocket you can as you can see this is a bag that is once again using binding and one of the nicest things about binding is that because we don't have to worry about turning things inside out and how we're going to put what through what hole um you can get really creative with your lining panel so if you're like I really want a zipper on the lining panel you can add it it does it's not going to change anything on the bag okay so like I said this is a sling version let me show you how you can wear this you can obviously just wear it like over one shoulder like this a lot of people like to wear it across their body so let's see put this across the body just like that so then you see across the body like this and on the back how cute is that cute little sling so I'm 5 4 in size small or medium depending on the day and this is how it looks on me it is adorable the designer mentioned this to me and I've actually also been asked this question I've had some people ask if this would be a good pickle ball bag which is kind of funny because I don't play pickle ball but my daughter just started playing it in school and she loves it so we have somehow we have a pickle ball racket I don't know what stand standard pickle ball racket sizes are so this might be on the larger size uh but it it does fit in the bag but you can't zip it so I'll show you so this is ours so if you have a smaller racket maybe I don't know you guys who are pickle ball aware you can see it does stick out the top however because you have the two zipper pulls you can easily just zip them up like that and then there you go you're pickle ball ready and there is plenty of room in the bag for the balls too if you need to put them in there so thank you so much to Candy Patterns as always for allowing me to feature your patterns on my channel you guys know Candy Patterns was one of the first pattern designers I started putting on okar roots she's been a favorite of mine since the beginning absolutely adore everything she comes out with I think like this is one of her more recent patterns and she just came out with another one the other day that is already on the list so if you go check out K Do's website she's over on Etsy and you see a pattern you haven't seen on the Channel please make sure you leave a comment down below We'll add it to the list but we have done quite a few of them if you're new to The Oak's YouTube Channel please consider clicking subscribe down below if at any point you like this video please give it a like any questions comments shout outs anything at all like I said other patterns suggestions leave them down in the comment section I will do my very best to link as much material as possible however I don't actually always know where my material comes from either because I've had it for so long or it was sent with a lot of other products and I'm not quite sure where it was from but I will do my very very best to link as much as I can in the description if you do have a question then make sure you leave a comment because if I can't answer it somebody else watching the video might be able to help you out all right guys guys let's get started okay so for this pattern for the exterior material if you're going to use the same material for the entire exterior you're going to need about 3/4 of yard I would always go for a full yard in that case uh if you're going to use the three pieces like the pattern suggests you're going to have a main and then you're going to have two contrast so for the main I'm using this pink material here here I'll move it over for the main I'm using this uh Pink Polytech material it has like a nice coating on the back it doesn't require any interfacing or anything like that it has a good weight but it's not as thick as vinyl or anything um and it's very it's water resistant easy to keep clean I love it for this one you're going to need about half a yard of material for contrast a which is going to be like the sides and then some of the peeking out of pockets you're going to need at least a 30 yard in material for that I'm using a water resistant canvas again I'm not using any coil cotton or anything like that cuz you guys know I'm I just don't like spending the time to interface it but if you were using Quil cotton for any of this you would want to interface it with your woven interfacing and then for contrast B you're going to need about a fat eth you're not going to need a whole lot of this I would suggest you be kind of careful with contrast recipe in the first bag I used vinyl it looks beautiful I love how it turned out however there are so many layers in some spots that it was a little challenging to sew over so for this one I'm using a wax canvas so this is where again play with lightweight materials but that still have structure and all three of these are great options for that any sort of like a like this is a polyester material but any sort of like a nylon material that has like a like a fleecy backing on it like this it doesn't stretch or anything water resistant canvas wax canvas these are all great materials that are more light weight but still offer a lot of structure and don't require more layers of interfacing and then for your lining you're going to need at least a yard of material water resistant canvas is what I'm going to be using again because they don't have to interface anything and it's just really easy to work with so if you're using quilt cotton for any of your pieces make sure you have enough woven interfacing for that if you're using a lot of cool cotton for this like for the exterior and the lining and everything you're going to need about 2 yards uh for stabilizer I'm using I I feel terrible using something I don't have a link for I don't remember who sent this to me but a small business sent me a number of different of these adhesive foam interfacings in different thicknesses this is the 1.5 mm thickness and you can see it has a paper backing on it and when you pull it off it's just sticky I love this stuff I I honestly wish I could remember if I figure out who sent this to me and I can find it available I will put a link down in the description below but there are a lot of options out there for sticky interfacing you could also use foam um if you were using Quil cotton you could actually cut your foam pieces of the smaller size per the pattern so you take your cool cotton and then layer your foam centered on that and then you would layer your woven interfacing over it to kind of sandwich that foam in between those two layers and it would hold it in place you could use Deco light instead you can use usable fleece there's lots of options for this however I'm just really into this sticky stuff CU again it's just one less step it's just one less step all right so let's go through a bunch of the hardware in pieces like that you're going to need some binding tape now you're going to need at least 2 and a/4 yards of binding tape we are binding the inside of this bag today I am using this it's like a water resistant Oxford and it's 1 in wide and I just wrap around this is not a sticky one a lot of times I'll use an adhesive one this one's not an adhesive one but we just wrap it around the edges it's very easy to use you're going to need at least 26 in of zipper tape this is a number five zipper tape and you're going to need three zipper PS two to go with the exterior the top opening and then one also for the exterior but the front pocket there like a little front zipper pocket so you can have some fun with your zipper pulls here this one here and the front pocket is going to be the most prominent uh these other two would be on the top of the bag and used more so think about you know how you want to do that I have a bag tag with the okar roots logo on it and then I also have a little sew in one here that I'm going to try to put somewhere in the bag I'm not quite sure where but I do want to put it somewhere in the bag for your webbing it needs to be 1 and 1/2 in wide and it needs to be at least 48 in long for the sling bag or 59 inch long for the messenger bag I'm making the sling bag today so again 48 in long if you want it to be longer then make it longer if you know you need it shorter make it shorter I would say this length on my body is a little on the long side so I could probably shorten it quite a bit if you're going to make it for a Kido then definitely you could shorten the length quite a bit okay for the slip pocket on the back of the bag you're going to need some sort of a Fastener so we're using these little fashion snaps today move this around for the strap for the sling you're going to need a 1 and 1/2 in wide strap slider you're going to need a d-ring to connect it on the bottom and you're going to need a swivel hook I'm also going to be using rivets this pretty much just for the strap today these two pieces I consider optional this is an extra 1in d-ring this is to go with the sling version and so you can kind of hang your bag on a hook if that's not something you're interested in you can skip it and then a 1-in swivel hook this is going to go in the front of the bag this is makes it easy if you want to clip something to it like a badge or your keys or anything you just like want have quick access to on your bag you can just install this on the front and then clip whatever you need onto it I think it's cool so I'm going to add it okay so here's pretty much all the other stuff I'll be using today I have a rivet press and a hole punch this is going to be used obviously for the rivets also to install those fashion snaps there's lots of different tools out there this is the one I recommend for everybody these are two products I use in probably every single bag I make I highly recommend this riet press there's a whole okar Roots press and dye bundle available on can snaps I'll have a link for that down below I using paper tape to help hold some pieces in place as well as some double-sided easy to use wash away quarter-inch wide double-sided tape my thread in the top needle is going to be a Tex 45 weight thread this comes from SC swag in the bobin I'll be using this Gutterman thread my needle of choice is a microtex 812 if you're using any sort of vinyl here also have a microtex 914 available the layers are layered there are some spots that can get a little thick just make sure you have a thicker needle just in case next I have my 1in X 6in ruler as always I have a vinyl silverink pen and air racing marker this little metal tool here is a turning tool we have a couple pieces that just have sharp Corners we got to poke out so this is my favorite tool to use for that a stiletto to help me at the sewing machine a healthy supply of plastic clips and then of course a CER cuz I'm not perfect so let's go through these pattern pieces starting with pattern piece a this is the main front back panel of your bag you're going to need a cut of your contrast a this is for the exterior so exterior contrast a and then you're going to have two cuts of your lining material and then you're going to have two smaller cuts of your stabilizer of choice so if you see this here when I lay this inside it's within those Dash lines this is really important because like I said there are a lot of layers now if you're using an industrial machine you can definitely layer it up in the seams you know what your machine can handle if any of these pieces are cool cotton you will need to add your woven interfacing to it also you should take this time to mark all your placement marks so midpoint on the top and the bottom base seam points and zipper gusset seam points all these points are going to be really helpful later so take the time now to mark them on all your pieces next pattern if P spe is your back slip pocket you're going to have one cut of your exterior material and then you're going to have three cuts of line one of these is going to go with the exterior pocket the other two are going to go for slip pockets on the inside of the bag pattern piece C is going to be your front zipper pocket Strip This is that fun little strip right on the front of the bag that has the zipper going in the center you're going to have two cuts of your contrast B material I would suggest you use something lighter weight vinyl is going to be difficult here it looks really cool I don't regret using it however it's going to be a little bit more challenging to work with wax canvas water resistant canvas things like that those are really helpful tools here and then pattern piece D this is going to be the Upper Front so the very top of the front of the bag and this is going to be in your main color all right pattern piece e is going to use this piece here and we are going to end up cutting it down later so when you're tracing this out Trace them all out using the full uncut pattern piece first so from that pattern piece you're going to have one exterior in your main color one exterior in contrast a and then you're going to have three lining pieces here we will trim certain ones down later but there is an orientation issue with that so for now they are all cut using the main piece pattern piece f is going to be your zipper gusset you're going to have one cut of your exterior main color and then one cut of lining we're going to trim those down later to create two cuts of material and then you're also going to have one cut of stabilizer make sure you make note of it it's pretty skinny we're also going to trim this right down the center in just a little bit to create two cuts pattern piece G is going to be the bottom gusset of your bag you're going to need one cut of your exterior material in contrast a one cut of lining and then a smaller cut of your stabilizer of choice pattern piece H is the base and honestly I would say this is uh this is optional for example if you're using a thick material for this material right here for the base of your bag already for the bottom gusset like this is a vinyl I wouldn't say you had to do the base at all it's a really cool accent it looks really neat however it is optional so think about your material here cuz we're just layering this on the bottom of this gusset so it's just more layers in the seam however it looks great so for the base I am using the wax canvas here are the rest of the pieces for pattern piece eye this is only if you're doing the sling version if you're not doing the sling version you don't need this you're going to have two cuts of your exterior material in your contrast B then you're going to have a cut of stabilizer the pattern suggests decille light I definitely wouldn't use anything thick since my foam that I'm using is very thin I'm just going to use that pattern piece J is going to be for the interior phone pocket two cuts of lining material I'm going to use my contrast since it is lightweight and then for pattern piece K it's two pieces of lining material this is going to be for the little card pin pocket and then you're going to have a couple extra cuts of material over here one cut that's going to be used for the d-rings and another cut that's optional if you're going to add the little swivel hook on the front of the bag all right so let's start by prepping our materials the first thing you're going to want to do is find your back exterior panel and we're going to attach one of our foam pieces to the back exterior main panel now to make sure this is centered because it is important you really don't want to sew over this stuff you don't want it to get in the seam I'm going to use this little inner seam tool here that we have in the shop you could also just use a ruler and just Mark along the edges 38 of an inch the nice thing about using this is that I can get those Corners really well so this is just going to help me with placement I'm just going to trace these corners and it doesn't have to look good it just has to give me an idea of where my stabilizer needs to go okay so it's very faint probably can't see it but I have those Corners marked so now when I take the paper off of my adhesive stabilizer here I can just line this up with the corners make sure it's centered and flatten it down the thing I like about this foam one specifically is that it's not super sticky so if I need to like lift this up also it's going to work really well on water resistant canvas because it's not like a cottony fabric backing so I can just lift it up it'll stay enough but it won't rip the material if I have to move it okay so once you have that attached to the exterior the pattern suggest doing that with a lining piece as well you're just just one of the lining pieces this is going to be the lining piece that goes on the front of the bag cuz we don't attach this to the exterior front panel um however we are going to be sewing down pockets on this lining piece and I don't like to sew through this stuff so I'm going to wait until after I attach my pockets for the lining front panel and then I'll attach the foam to the back of it so I'm going to hold off on that like I said if you haven't marked all these marks yet for the midpoints and the zipper gusset seams and your base seam go ahead and do that it's going to be easier if you do it now versus later when you have a lot of stuff going on okay now with your zipper gusset you're going to take your exterior and lining materials and you're going to cut them in half along the long part here so you should end up with two exterior materials two lining materials and then two smaller cuts of stabilizer and now you can take your stabilizer cuts and Center them on the back of your exterior strips here and just fuse them on however you need to I like to Mark the 38 in seam alls along all four edges just a couple spots along all the edges so that I know how to center this properly and again once you have it on there if you're using the sticky stuff like I am just make sure you look at it from the front as well cuz sometimes it kind of pulls the material and you don't want it to have any bubbles on it so do this for both of your zipper strips all right next we're going to get our d-rings ready I am still using two D- Rings even though I'm not making the cross body version one d-ring is going to go for the sling and the other one is just going to go as a little hanging hook so using your ring tab strap you're going to Mark a midpoint running along the length of it on the back side I'm going to use double-sided tape to hold this down if you're using material that can be ironed then just iron it water resistant canvas can be ironed you're going to want to make sure the iron stays on the right side of the material not on the back side where that kind of plasticky coating is but you can iron it it will stay just fine tape's easiest for me so I just put two pieces of tape one running along each side of that midpoint line and then we're going to fold our material back long sides in to meet that midpoint and wrong sides together so do this for both long edges and once you have your long strip ready you're just going to fold it in half and then take your scissors and cut right at that fold so you don't have two pieces that are of equal length grab our clips and we're just going to take our little tab here and wrap it around the straight edge of our d-rings so you can see we're not top stitching the long folded edges you don't really need to um if you feel more comfortable doing that go for it but it's not necessary so now we're going to go to the sewing machine and just Stitch along the clipped Edge the little raw edge of each one of these at a/ quar inch seam allowance once you have that stitched you're going to cut down most of the seam so you're just going to cut right next to the stitching so the stitching is pretty much right on the edge of the material now you can set that to the side next we're doing the optional Little swivel hook that goes as a detail on the front of the bag you're going to grab your little tab for that and then once again I'm going to use double-sided tape here I marked a midpoint along the back of this so just like I did with the previous tabs and I'm just going to add tape on both sides of it and then just fold back those parallel edges so they're wrong sides together meeting that midpoint line and press them with an iron or tape them however you need to get them back once again I'm not going to be top stitching the folded edges but if you want to you can do that and then we're just going to wrap this around the bar of our swivel hook it is a tight fit it's supposed to be and we're going to take this to the sewing machine and we're going to just Stitch along this clipped edge here at about an eighth of an inch seamons okay all your little details are done you can set these to the side all right so let's work on these back pockets so we're going to start with the exterior back slip pocket so grab your exterior material and grab a lining panel you can set the other two lining panels to the side and then grab some sort of stabilizer any type of stabilizer here honestly it could be the foam it could be your dec of the light whatever you want just some sort of stabilizer to help reinforce the snap because we don't want the snaps to pull at this material so on the back of your exterior main panel you're going to want to Mark the midpoint and then measure about 3/4 of an inch down and then put your stabilizer right right there fuse it stick it glue it Whatever It Takes uh put your stabilizer there the top edge of the stabilizer is going to be at the 3/4 in mark from the top edge of the back side of your slip pocket and now take your exterior panel and your lining panel and lay them right sides together grab your clips and clip along the top straight edge now we're going to sew along this clipped Edge at a 38 inch seam allowance make sure you back stitch at the beginning and the end once you have these sewn together grab some scissors and just cut these Corners down at a 4 5° angle we are trying to reduce bulk as much as possible here next you're going to take your two panels and you're going to flip them wrong sides together if you want to grab an iron and iron your material to get it nice and flat along that top seam go ahead and do that just make sure you remember if your material is not iron friendly then you're going to just have to press it with your fingers so I like to like to line up the bottom corners and clip those together and then I'm going to work on straightening out the sides and by doing all of this it helps me straighten out that seam on the top and then I'll use Clips to help here you could also use double-sided tape underneath the seam if you'd like that's another way to get a really crisp seam there's lots of strategies here you just find what works best for you all right now you're going to top Stitch along this top edge here at an eighth of an inch seam allowance you can do a second row of top stitching at about a 38 of an inch steam allowance just for a little decorative accent if you'd like all right once you have that top stitched use some sort of a marking tool that's fabric safe that will not stay there forever cuz you need to Mark the midpoint along this top Zone Edge and then you're going to measure 3/4 of an inch down and Mark a little dot there this is going to be placement for your snap so grab your whole punch of choice and punch a hole right where you mark that next grab your back exterior panel this is the one that has the stabilizer on the back and you're going to Overlay your pocket over the back and line up the bottom corners and line up the side edges make sure it's all correct you don't want this to be tilted in any way so once you have that in place you just add a couple Clips to hold it there and we have that hole that we marked in our pocket we're going to just Mark through that hole onto the back panel here all right and then once you have that Mark there grab your hole punch and I'm going to have to use another vit press hole punch for this because my handheld one can't get through this distance so I'm just going to insert this here and I'm whole punching through the back panel and through the stabilizer this is why it's important the stabilizer is already attached so that's something to always remember snaps need stabilizer snaps need stabilizer because they're going to be pulled and pushed together a lot eventually the fabric will rip if there's no stabilizer so now let's work on installing our snaps we'll start with the pocket first the pocket's going to get the female snap so it's like the cap piece here is going to go on the exterior you're going to push that through flip it over and then like the little doughnut piece goes on the lining side just like that so with these types of snaps if you're using your RI press you are going to want to make sure you have the die set to go with it it is a set of four two for the male end two for the female end so the female end bottom D is like a little bowl for the cap and the top D is kind of like a little little Pokey thing I don't know how else to describe it so we're just going to take our pocket line it up in here and press this in place and you can see it's very quick very easy so now we're going to attach the male end here on the main panel so the mail end has two pieces one that has a long Pokey piece one that has a short Pokey piece long Pokey piece goes on the back through the hole up the front short Pokey piece lays on top of it on the front just like that make sure you switch out your dieses and then with the short Pokey piece facing up you're going to just press this in place and there we go so now you're going to take your pocket and just snap it into place and then line up the sides in the bottom corners and clip together now let's take this to the sewing machine and let's just base along the sides in the bottom I'm going to do all my basing at an eighth of an inch seam allowance the pattern does suggest doing at a/ qu inch seam allowance when we sew it all together in the end it will be at a 3/8 inch seam allowance so you should be good however some areas if they're really bulky you might have a hard time getting that proper 38 inch seam allowance so just to be on the safe side to make sure none of my basting stitches show in the end I'm going to be basting everything at an eighth of an inch seam allowance all right your back panel's done you can set this to the side now grab your two remaining lining B panels and lay them right sides together and clip along the top straight edge we're going to build this pocket just like we did the previous one except without the snap so now let's sew along this top straight edge at a 38 inch seam alow it's make sure you back stitch at the beginning and the end and go ahead and trim down those Corners at a 45° angle after you're done sewing once have that own let's press these two panels wrong sides together and I'm just going to give them a finger press like this and then line up the bottom corners and clip those together so it doesn't get all over the place and then I like to clip along the top folded Edge just to make sure it stays again this is just dependent on your material some material you can just fold it and it will stay perfectly some you got to press with an iron some is going to be more difficult and clips are needed and now I'm going to top Stitch along this top Edge here once again one row at an eighth of an inch seam allowance and the second row at a 3/8 inch seam allowance now you're going to grab your back main lining panel so this will be the main lining panel that does not have the stabilizer so if you already attached your other stabilizer to the lining this is the lining panel without the stabilizer and lay it right side up lay your pocket right side up and clip matching up the bottom corners and the sides now you can take this to the sewing machine and just base along the sides in the bottom I'm going to do this at an eighth of an inch seam allowance all right your back lining pocket is done you can set this to the side so now bring back that back exterior panel and we're going to lay the back lining panel and the exterior panel the exterior panel has the stabilizer lining does not we're going to lay them wrong sides together and match up all the edges make sure you use Clips to hold this all together all right once you have them clipped together we're going to go to the sewing machine we're going to base along the entire outer edge of this at an eighth of an inch seam allowance make sure your pockets are both facing up like this the pattern does suggest stitching with the back panel facing right side up because it's a little stiffer than the lining panel so you can avoid stretching that way and if you were using a foam that did not have adhesive on it or anything like that one option you have here is while you're basing this like starting on the side over here base along the side the bottom and the other side and then before you reach the top slip in your non-adhesive cut of foam that's smaller slip it into the center here and then continue basting if you did that though I would use a seam allowance of a/4 inch basting stitch just to really help keep it from sliding around and going into the seams okay you can put this to the side for just a moment all right let's work on the straps we're making the sling so this is a sling strap one thing to always remember when you're using webbing or zipper tape is that it likes to fray a lot so any raw edges you see this frying here any raw edges you want to clean them up and then you want to melt them down now the nice thing about this is that this thread is made out of plastic so when it melts it like seals itself just like that so first thing we want to do is attach our strap to our strap slider by going up from the bottom over the middle bar and back down the other Edge if you want to sew this you can I'm GNA use rivets because that's just it's easiest for me so I'm GNA fold this little strap end over here by about half of an inch and I'm just going to tuck it right against that bar just like that and then I'm going to use my hole punch here to punch a hole I'm going to do two rivets I'm just eyeballing where they go if you'd like to use a guide of some sort to mark them so that they are even and in proper places go for it I just eyeball it I live on the edge all right and I know it's like how many rivet presses do you have Jessica I have a few I really really like rivet presses so this is just I consider this a handheld I think it is called the tabletop because you can like screw it down onto the table um I find it very easy to work with with my hands so I'm putting in my rivet dyes here and then I'm just going to press these rivets into place and now you can flip this over so you have the folded over edged facing up and then find the end of your strap insert your swivel hook so the swivel is facing down and then fold this material back sides together so it's coming up on the folded over edge up through that slider over the other Edge just like that so you have hook adjuster raw Edge okay so now we're going to get the strap connector pieces you have two of your exterior contrast pieces and then some sort of stabilizer if you want to go ahead and attach your stabilizer centered on here now you can I think I'm just going to slide it in in a little bit so you're going to take one of our strap connectors and Lay It Wrong Side Up take the raw edge of your webbing and you're going to center it along the top so if it's easier go ahead and fold along that top Edge and Mark the midpoint and then just Center your webbing so it lines up with that top Edge grab your clips and clip it together and now we're going to sew right along this top edge of our webbing at a/ qu in seam allowance I guess camera was not turned on for that I apologize but it it's just a little little Stitch right there now take your other connector and you're going to lay it right side down over the webbing so the webbing sandwich in between these two pieces now you're going to clip along the top short Edge and then these two diagonal edges lining up both pieces the pieces are right sides together now we're going to sew along the sides and the top Edge all at a 38 inch seam allows make sure you back stitch down here at the beginning in the end once you have that sewn we're going to trim down these Corners so that we can hopefully get some nice Pokey Corners so I trim them down all over Place do not trim down any of your webbing though try to make sure that stays intact I'm also going to trim down these Corners down here now you're going to just flip this right side out can gently kind of pull on your webbing to help with that this is also where it's helpful to have one of these turning tools to help you poke out those Corners so I always like to start with the blunt end here just to make sure I don't get too aggressive with the Pokey part and then eventually I'll get get the Pokey part out and gently work on getting those Corners as sharp as I can get them all right once you have it turned out the way you want flatten out those seams and I'm going to use Clips to help hold this in place and then I'm going to take my stabilizer cut here and I'm just going to slide this in and it does have a sticky backing but honestly it's not going to stick to the wax canvas so I'm not too worried about it fighting me too much and when you do this type of method you might find that maybe your stabilizer is a little too big as you're trying to SL it in you can just shave off the edges a little bit until it's just the right size but it should be a pretty tight fit all right once you have it flattened out and your stabiliz in there you're going to take this to the sewing machine and we're just going to top Stitch along all the edges of this connector at an eigh of an inch seam allowance now grab your back main panel and you're going to take your strap connector and make sure you notice which is the right side so the right side of your strap connector is going to be where the slider looks like this so we want the right side facing up so strap slider facing up connector facing up if you haven't marked a midpoint go ahead and Mark a midpoint along the raw edge of that strap connector with wax canvas is fun because you can just use a stiletto to mark on it and then using the midpoint on the top of your back panel and your back panel exterior right side up you're going to Center your strap connector and clip it along the top Edge and now we can sew along this top edge here at a/ quar inch seam loun and so to make this easier I why don't you grab your strap and just tuck it into this pocket so it's out of the way there we go so now if you haven't already use your template to mark one of the base seams we're going to put it on the bottom right side here and then you're going to take your d-ring with the strap connector on it and you're going to line it up so the top of the strap connector comes right up to that Mark and we're going to clip in place just like that so now sew this on at about 1/4 inch seam allowance and now you're going to take your remaining little d-ring and we're going to Center that on the top here I know and like I said there's a lot of layers here so you got to think about this with your material we're going to Center this right here on the top and if you're a little worried like you know what this is too many layers we still have to add a gusset and binding to this you don't have to add this little d-ring it is optional but we're going to sew this down at a/ qu inch seam allowance okay now your back panel is all done you can set it to the side so now let's work on the front of the bag so take your exterior main lower front panel here and then take your template and I had already cut this so I used tape to hold together you're going to cut that little top Corner out just like that and we're going to do this one at a time so exterior main color material right side up template right side up line up all the edges that you can and then grab your marking tool of choice and Trace along this curved cutout and once you have that traced grab your scissors and cut out right on that line all right so now take one of your lining panels and your lining panel is going to be wrong side up okay so wrong side up this time we're GNA do the same thing we're going to trace that little rounded Corner bit on the top right corner here so when these are right sides together they will match up to perfectly this is why it's just easier if you wait until this step to cut it out versus in the beginning cuz you can get a little confused so now we're going to take that exterior and lining panels that you were just working on and we're going to lay them right sides together focusing specifically on that curved cut Edge and now we're going to sew along this curved Edge at a/4 inch seam allowance only along the curved Edge make sure you back stitch at the beginning and the end once you have that sewn grab your scissors and snip like every 38 of an inch qu of an inch just make a lot of Little Snips into the seam close to the stitching but not actually cutting the stitching that you just did this is going to help it spread out so we have a nice curved knot wonky seam here that's the goal all right now we're going to take this and flip these wrong sides together and then line up line up the corners and that will help you get that curve over here lined up and then just carefully roll out and flatten out this curved seam over here and I'm going to use Clips if you're using Quil cotton here go ahead and use an iron to help you flatten this out and if you find that you have some areas where it's just like really straight and not curving at all you need to flip it back out and do a couple more of those little cuts into the seam so that it can spread out like it needs to all right now we can do a little bit of top stitching here we're going to do a row of top stitching at an eighth of an inch seam allowance and then another row of top stitching at 38 in seam allowance only along this curved edge here if you wanted to add a sew on bag tag down here then don't base this together just yet all right so let's do our bag tag now all right so I'm going to do like pattern and I'm going to just Center this and place it 1 and a/4 in up from the center of the bottom of my pocket panel I have a little bit of double-sided tape on the back here to help hold it in place and now I'm going to separate the exterior in the lining and I'm going to go to the sewing machine and just top Stitch along my bag tag at an eighth of an inch seam Lance all right now grab your other exterior your contrast exterior lower panel and lay right side up and then take your pocket and just lay it right over it isn't that so stinking cute this is such a fun bag to play with a mixture of solids and prints I mean you can just do all solid all prints too but this is this is fun to kind of mix up all your colors all right once you have your pocket clipped to that exterior panel we can just base along all the clipped edges so the top here the sides the bottom the other side uh all of it we're just going to base it together at about an eighth of an inch seam alance all right now if you're doing the little swivel hook here you're going to attach it on the top right of this panel 1 and 1/2 in from the right side so just measure in it doesn't have to be exact if it's a little if it's a little more to the left that's okay and then I'm just going to use some clips to hold it in place and then I'm going to take this to the sewing machine and I'm just going to base it down at an eighth of an inch seam allowance isn't this stinking cute okay you can set this to the side for just a little bit all right so now we're going to work on the front zipper pocket you're going to grab your two pieces for this and using this template here you're going to trace out that inner rectangle on the back side of one of your panels and then lay both of your panels right sides to together add a few Clips to make sure they don't move around and now we're going to go to the sewing machine and we're just going to sew right over that inner rectangle make sure your needle ends up in all the corners and go slow if you need to change your Stitch length to a smaller one like 2 mm that's totally fine all right once you have that rectangle stitched you're going to draw a midpoint Line running right along the center here and you're going to draw two little triangles that go from the corner down to meet that midpoint line and then grab a seam ripper and start ripping right along the center of your opening here so once you have that center cut you're going to push one of your panels in through the center and then bring it back so it's wrong sides together with the other panel for some reason this can be a little hard to wrap your head around when you first do it so just kind of play with it I know I kind of just flipped it around and around and around for a while trying to figure out how I was supposed to do that but yeah just flip one one side through and then back I like to start with the short edges here and you'll notice here when you're doing this part if you used a thick material like um like vinyl this is this is tricky because you don't have a whole lot to work with here it's it's pretty narrow so you do want to use a lighter weight material for this but you can still use vinyl so wax canvas is nice because you can just kind of push and fold it it's almost like fabric Play-Doh you can just get it exactly where you want so you can see I'm just folding it back and I'm giving it a good press right along the seam cu the hardest part of all this here is getting that inner rectangle to be the right shape that's just the hardest part if you need to use some double-sided tape maybe you're using a vinyl and you cannot get it flat inside of here then I grab some double-sided tape and run it right underneath on the inside and tape pretty you're pretty much just taping the two pieces of material wrong sides together at that seam do whatever it takes but yeah wax canvas is good for this because you can just kind of push it and it's going to go where you want it to go now let's go to the sewing machine and let's just top Stitch along all four outer edges of this panel at an 87 in seam Lance now grab your upper front panel right side up and lay it upside down so the flat Edge is on top and then grab your little zipper opening here and lay it wrong side up so that this is right sides together with this panel if you don't have a right side and a wrong side then just lay it on top and we're going to match them up along this long edge here and clip together together and now we're going to sew along this clipped Edge at a 38 in seam allowance make sure you back stitch at the beginning and the end okay the pattern suggests trimming down the seam allowance to about A4 of an inch so I'm just going to shave off a bit of it now the pattern is going to have you fold the seam behind the zipper panel depending on the material you're using for the zipper panel that can be kind of difficult to do especially if you're using vinyl it can be very very bulky I'll tell you on the other one I made I did flip it behind the top panel and it was fine so I'm probably going to do that again just cuz it's easier just flipping that zipper panel up behind the top panel but we're not top stitching it yet so don't do that so now grab your lower front panel and lay it right side up and then take your zipper panel with the top and lay it right side down matching up the long edges and clip these together and now let's sew right along this top clipped Edge at a 38 inch seam allowance make sure you back stitch at the beginning and the end so now we can trim down this seam a bit I'm not going to trim where my little swivel hook tab is I don't I don't like trimming those down so I'm just going to trim just a little bit along the top edge here just shaving it down I'm also going to just do little corner Cuts over here so now you'll notice with this one when you fold it right side up you will have to have the seam go behind the zipper panel specifically if you're using this swivel hook over here so do your best to get that nice and flat and if you need to up your needle to a 914 now because it's just just a lot of layers go ahead and do it don't make this harder than it has to be so now we're we're going to do is we're going to top Stitch right along the bottom of our zipper opening here so our little zipper panel here we're going to top Stitch along the bottom Edge at an eighth of an inch seam allowance be careful go slow again up your needle if you need to there are a lot of layers here but we're not top sshing on the top yet just the bottom all right set this aside for just a moment now we're going to grab our zipper tape and I'll be honest when I cut my zipper tape I like it to be just a little bit wider than the lining panels um if you cut the zipper for the pattern it might be a little bit shorter and you have to center it I prefer it to be longer so I got my zipper tape cut down and I'm going to add my zipper pull so this is the one that's on the very front of the bag so it's the most prominent pull if you want you can go ahead and Stitch down these ends over here to make sure you don't accidentally lose your zipper so now take one of your remaining lower panels here and lay it right side up and then take your zipper and with the zipper closing towards the right you're going to lay it right side up and line it up with that top Edge then once you have these clipped together you can sew along that top Edge at a/ quinch seam ounce back stitch at the beginning and the end all right so once you have that attached you're going to flip this so that the zipper tape stays up but now this panel is wrong side up so we're flipping it around pretty much and now the zipper is going to close towards the left so then grab your double-sided tape and add some double-sided tape right along the edges of your zipper tape I mean right on the edge don't let it get too close to the zipper teeth we don't want this to be seen in the end so do this on both sides of your zipper tape tape for the bottom one here you can just make sure it's underneath that stitching as long as it's beneath that stitching you should be okay all right so now we're going to attach this to our main panel over here so grab your main panel and make sure that rectangle opening is as squared off as you can get it you're going to pretty much just lay it right over your zipper just like that so just line up the sides don't worry about the bottom corners it's not supposed to reach all the way down so don't worry about that just worry about centering your zipper teeth in this rectangle opening and the sides being matched up once you're happy with how it looks we're going to fold this down a little bit and we're going to take the paper off of the top piece of tape now I'm using wax canvas so it is very unlikely that this tape is going to really do much of anything so I'm also going to rely on the clips here but if you're using other material you can do this so I'm going to flip this out of the way put this back and tape down that top Edge right along the top of my zipper teeth and then I'm going to flip up the bottom piece here so I can see my zipper tape remove the paper off this bottom piece of tape and then fold it back down and stick it in place and just give it a double check to make sure it all looks as straight as it's going to look if it's a little it's a little wonky it's it is what it is so now we're going to go to the sewing machine and we're going to top Stitch over this inner rectangle here at an eighth of an inch seam balance all the way around if you want to do an extra row stitching or go back stitch over the zipper coils you can definitely do that to make sure that as you use this those don't rip oh this is looking so cute okay remember we still have not top stitched up here yet it's okay so now we're going to flip this over and we're going to add a little bit of double-sided tape centered not quite the full length I mean it can be if you want to but over this top edge here now the pattern says that this is supposed to be folded down I'm not going to do that I'm going to keep it folded up towards this little top accent piece here it works fine for me I don't mind the look if if the look is not what you want if you want it to have that nice top stitching on the top and the bottom of the zipper opening then you will want to fold that down but I'm okay with this so once you have the tape on there remove the paper it does not stick to wax canvas at all and then grab your remaining lower panel and you're going to lay it right side down lining up the edges here and lining it up with the top edge of the seam okay so once these are taped together leave it okay I made this mistake earlier I did not read the pattern correctly I had to do a lot of unpicking later in the bag because of that so leave it taped like that and then with this flipped over you're going to just flatten this out and you'll notice that this bottom lining panel sticks out further than the top so we want to trim it down I'm just going to kind of hold it in place and I'm going to grab some scissors and I'm just going to trace right along this curve here honestly you could probably just cut a straight line too if you wanted to uh but I'll just I'll trace the curve don't worry about it being too perfect no one sees this and we're going to trim down the sides even more in a little bit so now let's grab some clips and just hold these two lining pieces together by clipping them together okay here's the next part you want to get right flip this over so it's right side up so we're going to flip up the exterior unit here so we just have The Zipper and then the two lining pieces below we're going to sew along this Edge at a half2 inch seam allowance all the way around so you see how I just flip up the extra material the entire time continue on the other side once again flip up the exterior material leave the zipper down all of it at a/2 in seam loun make sure you back stitch at the beginning and the end the most important part now once you have that sewn the sides we haven't sewn the top yet here so if you're like but the top is open it's supposed to be don't worry about that once you have that sewn we got to trim down the seam because we do not want this stuff in the seam you will break needles try to attach a gusset like that so now what we're going to do I'm just going to kind of start sections we're going to trim it pretty close to the stitching we don't want this material anywhere near the seam so this is the mistake I made on the first one I didn't quite realize that and I ended up trying to sew like the zipper into the gusset and and it was I couldn't do it it was it was giving me so much headache and then I realized oh well I didn't read the instructions so read the instructions and since we trim down the zipper a bit we're going to want to make sure we we use a lighter to melt down the edge of our zipper tape so we don't have to worry about that fraying getting to be a problem all right so now we're going to close the top here so like I said if you have this folded down towards the back of your zipper panel then you're going to top Stitch right along the zipper panel at an eighth of an inch seam allowance I have it folded up towards the top of my little rounded bit here so I'm just going to top Stitch right over this edge here at an eighth of an inch seam allowance okay after you're done top Stitch and flip it over and make sure you caught the top of your lining panel here so now the pocket is fully inclosed closed isn't that cute it's a fun it's a fun pocket I haven't seen that before so like I said make sure you read the instructions all right front panel is done you can set it to the side so now we're going to work on these cute little pockets here these are optional but they are cute so the first thing you want to do is flip them over and on the bottom edge of each one of them let's measure 3/4 of an inch up and draw a horizontal line okay now I added a little piece of double-sided tape right below each one of those 3/4 in lines because that's just what's easiest for me with my fabric so I'm going to remove the paper from that tape and then again this is the wrong side I'm going to flip that bottom edge up wrong sides together so it meets that line and what I'm doing is I'm just folding back a 38 inch piece of material right so I'm going to do this for all four pieces here the pattern suggests having this on the top Edge uh but I'm not that neat so I'm going to put on the bottom Edge so just in case it doesn't look that great in the end maybe it's a little little wavy or something you won't you won't see it in the bag once you have those folded and pressed and taped or however you did it you're going to take your two foam pocket pieces and lay them right sides together making sure that both of the folded edges are on the same spot and we're going to clip these along all the edges right sides together and then repeat that for the little interior card pocket all right now let's take this to the sewing machine and starting at the bottom Edge we're going to sew up at a 38 in seam along all three clip sides You're Not sewing over the folded opening here only along the raw edges make sure you back stitch at the beginning and the end once you have these sewn grab your scissors and let's just cut down all the corners at about a 45° angle L of times with Corners I find like 45° angle and then shave it down a little bit more too that will help you get a really nice poked out corner so do this for both pieces once you have those prepped let's flip these right side out just flipping it through that opening this is where that turning tool comes in handy once you have it all poked out you can press this with an iron to flatten it out or you can use Clips like I'm doing to get all these seams nice and flat all right once you have these seams flattened out you're going to take to a sewing machine and we're going to top Stitch along all four edges of each one of these Pockets at an eighth of an inch Seance so now grab your remaining lining panel and this would be the one that you have stabilizer on but like I said I'm not attaching my stabilizer just yet all right so we're going to measure 4 in down from the top and you're trying to Center these two pieces but they're not the same width so don't Center their their meat point on the midpoint uh you're going to want about an inch on each side maybe a little less so you can see I just kind of lined it up the tops of them are each at 4 in from the bottom and I taped them down I have this little woven tag over here what I'm going to do is I'm just going to kind of lift up this bigger pocket and I'm just going to slide it in there so I'll just top Stitch it down just like that I don't know it's cute so now to do is we want to go to the sewing machine and top Stitch down the sides and bottoms of each of these Pockets at an eighth of an inch seam lowance make sure you back stitch really well at the tops of each one of these pockets all right these look cute and I'm going to leave this as a card slot pocket I'm not going to make it a little Pen pocket this time but I think those look pretty cute and it's a little wonky so the tag is perfect there so now what we want to do is we want to just add this stabilizer to the back if you haven't already go ahead and mark the seams around the edges and just stick this on or use it on all right so there is that so now we have stabilizer attached to our lining panel so now grab your ex your front main panel and your lining front main panel and we're going to lay them wrong sides together make sure the tops are the tops for both of them don't install your pockets upside down so just flip them wrong sides together and match up all the edges and then just clip around all the edges and Corners to get this all lined up all right once you have all the edges matched up and clipped together we're just going to base B around this I'm going to base at an eighth of an inch seam allowance if you want to do it at a/ quar inch that's totally fine as you're going around just make sure your zipper and this lining pocket from the front panel isn't getting into the seam in any way and just remember you had to trim it down okay now we're going to build the zipper gusset and we've done this a lot lately so if you've been watching the last few videos you should be pretty comfortable with this process so I'm going to move both my zipper pulls over to one end your zipper tape should be quite a bit longer than your zipper gusset take one of your exterior zipper gusset pieces and lay it right side up and grab your zipper tape and lay it right side down and just clip it to the long Edge and you don't have to have your zipper pulls overhanging the end over here if you don't want but if it's easier for you to just have them out of the way go ahead and do that okay and I always like to base things um especially with zippers so I'm going to take this to the sewing machine and I'm going to base along this clipped Edge at an eighth of an inch seam allowance once you have that based down grab one of your lining zipper gusset panels and lay it right side down over the back side of your zipper tape and line it up with the corners and the edge of your exterior material and just clip along that edge you just basted and now let's sew along this clipped Edge at 1/4 inch seam allowance make sure you back stitch at the beginning and the end once you have this sewn in place we're going to press right along the Edge by the zipper and we're going to pull the lining and the exterior back wrong sides together and clip F them wrong sides together along all three raw edges and now let's take this to the sewing machine and let's top Stitch right along the zipper on the exteror material add an eighth of an inch seam allowance and then go ahead and base along the three raw edges also add an eighth of an inch seam allowance all righty we got one attached we're going to attach the other side the same way so grab your other exterior zipper gusset panel and lay it right side up and then take your zipper and lay it right side down and you need to turn this around turn this around you want to make sure when you line this up you're lining it up with the edge of the exterior panel that's already attached so you need this all to match up so I like to start with the ends first and then I'll clip along the long the long top edge here now I'm going to take this to the sewing machine and just base along the clip Edge at an eighth of an inch seam allowance now lay your zipper wrong side up and grab your remaining lining zipper gusset panel and lay that right side down over the wrong side of the zipper and then line up the corners with the exterior that's already based on and then clip along that long Edge and now let's sew along this clipped Edge at a/ quar inch seam allowance make sure you back stitch at the beginning and the end all righty once it's all sewn on finger press it or you can press it with an iron whatever whatever you've been working with give it a good press right along that seam do the same on the exterior side there we go and then line up the three raw edges of the exterior and the lining and and clip wrong sides together all right and just like we did on the other side I'm going to top Stitch right along this edge here at an eighth of an inch seam Lance and then base around the three other raw edges also add an eighth of an inch seam allowance if you want to do a second row of top stitching along both sides by the zipper add a 3/8 of an inch seam allowance you can go ahead and do that all right once you have that done pull your zipper pulls to the center and then any zipper overhang you have you can trim down and I'm going to grab my lighter and just make sure I melt down the edge of my zipper tape there we go and you can set this to the side for just a moment so now let's work on the bottom gusset so bottom gusset I didn't show this earlier but I did attach the smaller stabilizer to the back just like I did on the other pieces and then I have my base panel so the first thing we want to do is we want to fold in these short edges of our base panels so you're going to fold them wrong sides back 38 of an inch so I marked a 3/4 of an inch mark on each short Edge so I can just fold this back if you need double-sided tape or if you need to iron this to keep it in place go ahead and do that and then grab your bottom gusset and find the midpoint on each side of your bottom gusset by just folding it in half and pinching it and you can mark that or you can do what I do which is just grab some scissors and give it a little little snippy snip go ahead and find the midpoint along the long edges of your base panel as well and then lay your gusset panel right side up make sure those edges are folded down on your base panel and lay your base panel right side up and match up the midpoints and clip along the raw edges and now we're going to take this to the sewing machine we're going to do two rows of top stitching along the short edges of the base panel one at an eigh of an inch one at a 3/8 inch and then we're going to base along the long edges at an eighth of an inch seam allowance all right so now let's finish building our gusset so take your zipper gusset pull your zipper poles into the center and lay it right side up grab your bottom gusset panel and lay it right side down we're going to line up the short edges first so bring the short edges right sides together so they're exterior right sides together and clip along the short Edge and I'm going to pull up the other side too and clip it you'll notice my stabilizer keeps unsticking that's fine it's sewn onto the bottom so I'm not worried about it if it kind of flops around a bit and now I'm going to go sew these two edges together at a/ quarter inch seam allowance first back stitching at the beginning and the end all right once you have the exterior based it on we're going to flip this over so we're looking at the lining side of the zipper gusset and then you're going to grab your lining bottom gusset and you're going to lay it right side down over the lining and you're going to match up those short edges just like we did with the exterior and clip right sides together I'm going to do this for both sides just kind of moving everything out of the way as I do it and now I'm going to sew along both of these clipped edges at a 38 inch seam allowance back stitching at the beginning and the end all right now we're going to flip this so the bottom gusset xier and lining come wrong sides together there we go and then we're going to carefully pull the material wrong sides together and clip right along these these long edges matching up the raw edges making sure your stabilizer stays tucked in between them and when I'm over here by the seam I'm kind of giving it a good tug because I want this to be nice and flat over by the seam between the two panels so just take your time to go around clipping these wrong sides together all right so once you have it all clipped together we're going to go to the sewing machine and along the long raw edges we're going to base at an eighth of an inch seam allowance and then along the edges where the zipper gusset and the bottom gusset connect we're going to top Stitch along the bottom gusset at an eighth of an inch seam allow so go around this entire bottom gusset closing it all up all right your gusset is now done oh I'm so excited to see it all come together all right so before we put these together let's prep everything so it's easy to line up first thing let's grab the gusset bring your seams between the bottom gusset and top zipper gusset together and then just kind of pull and you should have the bottoms already marked from where you attached your base just make sure those are still accurate I like to grab a couple Clips so I don't worry about losing this and then I'm going to go to the Top by my zipper here and I'm just going to flatten it out and pinch it and I'm going to grab my scissors and I'm going make a tiny clip right into the material and sometimes I get ask why I use the scissors instead of a pen or something uh it's cuz with when you clip it you can see it on both sides so if I Mark you know here I'm only going to be able to see on the exterior I might need to see it on the lining so this way it's just I can see it everywhere okay so the gusset is good make sure you have the top and bottom midpoints marked on both your front and back panel okay the next spots you want to make sure you have marked are the zipper gusset seams on the front and back panel so for the back panel you're going to want to mark it with a marking tool or scissors so they're right up here for the front panel it's actually right beneath this zipper accent piece so that spot is right beneath it we'll talk about that in just a minute when we're attaching this together okay I'm going to start with the gusset on the front panel the pattern how you start with the back panel I don't know why it's just habit now I just always like to get the front panel done first so we're going to flip our gusset so it's lining side out and our front panel is exterior right side up find the midpoint on your zipper gusset and line it up right sides together with the midpoint on the top of your main panel your front panel and use some clips I like to use a few different clips to hold it in place now we're going to rotate this and we're going to find the midpoint on the bottom of our gusset and match it up with the midpoint on the bottom of the front panel and clip together and you'll notice you have quite a few layers in some spots so that's why I said up that needle if you need it now when we come over here to the side the seam on our gusset between the zipper panel and the bottom is going down towards the bottom the seam on your zipper opening here on your front panel is going up towards the the top so you're going to just like hug these two seams together those seams are going to match up but one seam is going towards the top and the other is going down to the bottom so you shouldn't have a whole lot of excess bulk there so add your Clips turn this around do the same thing on the other side just pulling that seam and buding it up right to the seam on that zipper window now I'm going to flip this over so I'm looking at the back of my front front panel and I'm going to just start adding Clips along all the straight edges and then I'm going to deal with the curved Corners in just a minute but always start with the straight edges first do the easy part and then we'll deal with the other part all right so now these Corners are tight they're very tight I think this pattern was was designed with lighter weight material in mind so it's great for quilt cotton but if you're using thicker material you're going to be working these Corners so I'm going to show you how we do that so as we get to these corners over here you see my gusset is pulling away quite a bit from my front panel just going to kind of tuck in my front panel and I'm going to make little Clips little cuts into the gusset and I'm actually going to make quite a few of them and they're just about an eighth of an inch maybe a quar of an inch deep there we go and then I can tuck in this corner from my front panel and my gusset can now spread out that's what I want I want it to spread so that it can easily wrap around those Corners it's still a tight fit like I said you're still going to be doing some work at the machine especially if you're using any sort of thick material but I'm going to repeat that with the other three corners now all right again like I said stretch your arm stretch your arm because I find that when I'm doing this I put so much uh pressure using my left arm to like hold everything together while I'm going on that it starts to kind of cramp up so take your time here we're going to sew around this clipped Edge at a 38 inch seam allowance we're going to sew it with the gusset lining side up that's the easiest way to do it you can't you can't convince me otherwise um go slow use a stiletto so I usually have a stiletto and I am constantly just holding down the material and pulling it over if I need to if you get to corners and it's just like not spreading make sure you have scissors nearby clip into it some more so it can spread if it waivers a little bit like if it starts to pull away a little bit remember you have a 38 in seam allowance here so it's okay okay if it's not perfectly lined up it's still going to turn out just fine just go slow and back stitch at the beginning and the end okay that actually was not so bad my material was very Cooperative so uh what you want to do when you get done with that is you just kind of want to go to the corners and just check them out make sure there's no like puckering or little pleading and stuff this's just like a tiny bit honestly I I I don't mind it that looks so cute doesn't it all right okay I like to do The Binding after each time I attach the panel instead of doing all the binding in the end I don't know why it feels like it takes less time I guess all right so the binding I'm using I think this is called a water resistant Oxford it's a little bit heavier a little bit thicker than some of the other binding I've used previously it also does not have adhesive on it um but I find it works it works beautifully and you can see my binding is not the same color as my lining which I love to do honestly sometimes sometimes I want The Binding to match the lining uh so you like it does you can't even tell there is binding you know cuz you can't see it but other times you know what I did the work of Bing this bag and I want you to know that I want you to see it so what I'm doing right now is just going along my binding and folding it long sides together wrong sides together and this is going to make it so I can just kind of like wrap it around the seam I I love binding bags like this I don't know for at least for the lining of a bag I don't think I'll ever use quote cotton binding at least not for the lining of the bag um for exteriors and we have to bind exteriors I might use it for that but all right so once you have your binding folded I'm going to start over here on the side and I'm going to look at the lining panel so this is why I'll show you cuz when I sew it I'm going to sew it with the gusset panel up and so when I look towards the lining panel I will make sure that it's hanging over enough on the lining panel side so that's the side I won't see when I'm sewing and I'll know I'm catching it so you see how I just take it I just wrap it around pre-folding it makes it easier to make sure you're getting that midpoint so I'm just going to wrap this around the raw edge of my seam and just clip together all right once you get back towards the start of your binding I just let it overhang by about an inch cut it down and then I just wrap it around I don't even fold in the Raw edges that I cut you don't need to they're all raw edges all right so now I'm going to take this to the sewing machine and I'm going to flip it again so that the gusset is lining sight up and I'm going to top Stitch this on at about a quarter inch seam allowance some areas it might be very thin and I can top Stitch it at a 38 inch seam allowance some areas might be really thick and I'm doing less than a/4 of an inch don't get too hung up on the exact seam allowance for top stitching this um you're probably not going to go past the stitching that you already did for attaching the gusset to the exterior so don't don't worry about that but just take your time and back stitch at the beginning and the end oh we that's looking good isn't it it looks so good okay The Binding step should be a lot easier than the first step so uh just go around and make sure you caught everything specifically looking at the back of your front panel and make sure that it's all caught if you find an area where you're like oh I didn't quite catch this corner just tuck it down and go over it again you don't even have to seam RIP just go over it again you you're not going to you're not going to notice a couple of extra stitches there don't worry about it all right last part let's do the back panel now so the back panel we do want to make sure that this strap does not get in the way so I'm going to just kind of Fold It Up on itself quite a bit like that make sure it's right in the center we don't want that getting in any of the seams open your zipper a little bit on your zipper gusset and just like we did with the front we're going to lay this so that the exterior zipper gusset midpoint comes right sides together with the midpoint on the top of the back panel and clip these together yes it's very bulky there I know if you're doing the sling you got some beef up there but luckily it's not on a curve now we're going to flip it around and we're going to match up the midpoints on the bottom and then for the back panel you should have marked your gusset seam marks so find those marks and match it up with the seam between the zipper gusset and the bottom gusset do this on both sides and then clip around all the straight edges and then once we have to go to the corners once again just clip in eighth of an inch deep quarter inch deep not too deep you don't want to see these Cuts in the end but give yourself a few you can be gener with the cuts on these Corners they are tight Corners so you just push in that corner and spread out the gusset and it should wrap around the corner of your panel clip together and repeat for the other three corners all righty so this second panel regardless if it's the front or the back is harder than the first panel because now you have a tall bag here so once again we're going to sew it with the lining of the gusset Side Up sewing all the way around at a 38 inch seam allowance you got to squish down this other I know it looks so pretty and like but you got it you're going to have to squish it anyways when you turn it right side out so you got to squish it down so it's not fighting you at the machine so you can really just focus on stitching along these edges okay so 387 inch seam allowance make sure you back stitch at the beginning and the end all righty let me just tell it does not matter what pattern it is when you sew the second panel on on a gusset bag like this with rounded Corners your left arm is just going to hurt it's just it's such a workout keeping this material out of the way it's a workout but that was the hardest part the The Binding is not that hard uh it's not very it's not hard at all I would not even that hard it's just not hard but this was the hardest part so if you accomplished it the second one congratulations you're pretty much you're done with all the hard stuff so just like we did before we're going to grab our binding and we're going to fold it in half long sides together wrong sides together and just like before I'm going to grab my binding and I'm going to wrap it around the raw edges and I again I like to look at this with the back panel lining side up because when I sew this this is going to be down on the bed of the machine and I'm not going to see it so by looking at it when I'm attaching my binding I'm making sure that the binding is wrapping around and covering the stitching and so I'm making sure that it's nice and long on this side so when I sew from the other side maybe the other side is a a little bit shorter but at least I know I'll catch this versus the side you don't see being shorter and then when you Stitch it on it doesn't catch the back you know what I mean and just like before I'm going to let overhang by about an inch I just eyeball it I do not measure it you just don't want there to be a gap that's all and then just cover the beginning with the end full circle all righty let's take this to the S machine with the again gusset lining side up top Stitch at a/ qu inch seam all the way around make sure you back stitch at the beginning and the end use your stiletto zipper foot go slow this shouldn't be that hard it should be easier than the last step well look at that we did it we did it okay honestly this next step might actually be the hardest part just depending on how sore you are and how thick your material is we got to turn it right side out we don't have any more sewing to do though we're done sewing we just got to turn this right side out now um and if you're using vinyl thick material it's going to be a little tough in your hands and your arms might already be hurting but take your time here turn it right side out oh my goodness this is looking so good so the great thing about binding is like we've talked about this so many times but it's like a skeleton for the bag it gives it great structure without having to use a whole bunch of interfacing but when you turn it out it can be a little wobbly it can look a little messy so you got to go around and give it a good pinch and what I always do is I go around give all the seams a real good push out and a pinch and then I hang up the bag for like a day I just let it hang somewhere and sit but you got to tell it what you want it to do first so we roll out all these seams first all right now let's pull our sling out I'm going to shorten this quite a bit so we pull our strap out we can attach it to our little d-ring down here how cute is that oh my goodness oh my goodness it's so stinking cute isn't it let's zip up the top I know there's so many colors on this bag I love it though it is it is such a happy happy bag isn't it oh my gosh I can't wait to try this on I hope you guys love making this this is such a fun little bag so here's the thing you guys when I made this one I thought it was really singing cute I was really proud of it and MAA my daughter took a look at it she goes the colors don't work right this and this are both just too dark you need something lighter here she had she had some pretty uh strong opinions about my fabric choices however when I showed her this one she adored it she's like absolutely love it I want it I told her no it's going in the shop this is just so spring though I mean this is so if you have a pink and teal lover in your life this I hope that you play with this color palette all of this material was so much fun to play with and so like we talked about in the tutorial you really got to be careful with your material here nothing too thick vinyl might not be your friend if you're using a domestic machine because we do have quite a few layers however you don't need it you don't need vinyl to have perfect structure you don't need viny to make it easy to keep clean easy to wipe down you just don't you can get very creative with what you have whether it's cotton woven material or like a nylon material water resistant canvas there's lots of options out there so play with what you have and you guys this is just look how stinking cute this bag is I'm obsessed let's let's try it with the pickle pole paddle cuz I know as soon as mil sees this she's going to say but that could be my pickle ball bag I love pickle balls look how cute that is that's cute so yeah I would say this is a good pickle ball bag if you're you know if you got pickle ballers in your life because apparently that's taking over the world by storm at least the US um if you've got people in your life who are loving pickle ball this would be a really cute gift especially going into spring and summer I hope you love making the reporter bag as much as I do let me know if you make it let me know you make the crossbody version or the sling version I just love slings I really do I mean I cross body bags are usually top of my list but when we have a sling like this it just it's so easy to carry in multiple different ways and it looks so good I also love how this shape is so simple but there is still a lot of functionality to it so this is a great men's bag as well there's nothing besides my color choices there's nothing super feminine about the structure and shape of this bag so this is perfect for men who have to travel a lot for work or just like every every day especially if you live in like a big city and you have to carry some stuff around with you this is a great great bag for everybody so thank you so much for St with me today I hope you're having a great day have a fantastic rest of your week get out there and make something bye guys

Channel: Jess OklaRoots

Views: 10,865

Keywords: OklaRoots, OklaRoots Tuts, OklaRoots Sewing, How To Sew, Beginner Sewing, Beginner Sewing Patterns, Disney Crafts, Travel Bags, Bags For Friends, Handmade Gifts, DIY, DIY Bags, How To Make Bags, Make Something

Id: HjqiH0vz68w

Length: 73min 45sec (4425 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 29 2024