A Dish Best Served ROLLED

failure is good it bruises our egos makes us question our life decisions and most importantly brings us to tears wait wrong script what I mean is failing is learning you can guar Dam that of all the lessons I've had in this shop the most understood unshakable and ingrained in my soul are those that came from failure and not to sound too cliche but what's important is that you don't give up of course don't just do the same exact thing again and again that's called Insanity do something different until you do succeed even if it takes a year because it's true what they say redemption is a dish best served [Music] [Music] [Music] cold [Music] this is a sort of part two from the last project where I made this badass die holder from a kit sent to me by a fellow named Eric and in that video I teased at a second kit in this box well guess what I'm making now surprise it's a rotary brooch for the uninitiated it's basically a way of cutting polygonal holes in parts for example the hex hole in the screw the idea is that the cutter is held at an angle and allowed to rotate so as it's pressed into the work it grabs on and Spins with the material and because of the angle only one corner is working at a time this makes it a whole lot easier to press the tool into the part as opposed to coming straight in like a traditional brooch this works in harder non- kiddo friendly materials as well in theory anyway I say that because I attempted this once before and the results were well it didn't work but this could have been for several reasons for one I didn't have the best way of centering the brooch on the part I was working on and the setup I was using on my tool poost wasn't very rigid and I may have been trying to take too large of a cut at once and I may not have hardened the cutter so yeah it didn't work but this kit solves a lot of those problems as I'll get to during the build plus this can be used in both the lay in the mill which might actually be useful of course I already got something on these drawings because I'm an ape but other than that things in here seem pretty reasonable or so I thought I just noticed this is a 2:1 scale this thing is going to be tiny I guess that would make sense given how small the stock is but still a little shocking now I could try to scale everything up and make this a little more reasonable but I kind of like the challenge of making something so comically small and intricate so we're going to roll with it I guess this will solve my problem of trying to Bro too large of a geometry the drawings were also quite cryptic in areas so I decided to read the instructions this time this tool is slightly more scientific so I wanted to make sure to get it right and I'm glad I did because there's actually some pretty important steps in here that the drawings don't exactly convey for instance that I should start the build with the locking ring so let's dive in this ring is going to need some very fine5 mm pitch threads so I just want to make sure that my lathe is set up for this and I'm glad I did because I actually need to swap to the B set of change gears normally this isn't a problem but the colet Chuck uses this draw bar and this draw bar prevents access to those change gears so better to swap this all out now rather than mid part forgot to put this back in got to love it when you get something all the way back together and find an extra screw at least I know where it goes okay we should be good to go now just one more thing yep hold on to your pants I figured since everything on this build is metric might as well commit and change my readouts to metric as well let's start by preparing the end for Threads hm well I just realized my first hurdle none of my measurement tools are metric I'll just have to keep this calculator handy for the conversions to metric values on the drro which I have to do for every measurement oh goody let's cut the threads because this is an imperial lathe with an imperial lead screw I have to keep the thread feed engaged at all times this means running forward and reverse between passes normally I have to keep a pretty long ramp time on the vfd because it takes a while to speed up and slow down my big Chucks but for this I can shorten this time a lot to say 1 second Xcel and D Cel and this will let me stop and reverse in a more reasonable time without doofy something [Applause] up let's see how it's coming damn a little too ambitious on those first Cuts I'm already smaller than I meant to go by 10 thou I mean a/4 millimeter sorry 254 microns I could probably keep going and just make the female threaded part to match but that's kind of lame so I'll just start again on the other side that way I don't actually have to tell the boss also I'm about done with this converting every measurement I take of my Imperial tools to metric is well it sucks don't worry I'm still Machining to the metric spec it's just a lot easier to convert the final Dimension one time to inches so my macrometer is actually useful actually the drawing already lists the inch values so it's pretty much Insanity to try to do this in metric anyway okay I've got the thread spot on this time and went ahead and started a hole for the boore but to finish this out even my smallest boring bar isn't going to manage so especially for this project I bought a coup couple of these little fellas they're solid carbid so they weren't cheap but this isn't the first time I've been limited by Boring Bar size hence the top-notch grinding work I've done on almost all my other bars so I think I'll be able to get a lot of use out of these I'll finish up with a face recess and then drop a couple of these bad boys on here and polish it to perfection now I need a couple of spanner holes in this phas so over on the mail I'll get this set up and located in a V block and then drill this hole just a little bit deeper because I forgot to actually hit the record button but I think you get the idea too bad too cuz I actually broke a drill luckily I had 39 spares back on the lth they'll cut the this off and that's this part done is as you'll see there's a lot of stop Ando on this project so I'll come back to this in a bit because now it's time to start on the shank normally for something like this I would bring in a live center right from the start to support the work but as you can see there's a lot of material I'm removing here and just based on past experience this usually causes the material to warp as internal stresses are relieved so what I'll do to mitigate this is still use the live Center but I'll wait until I've got the shank turned down to within a th000 microns of the final size I don't know if this actually made a difference but I'll tell myself it did over on the maill I'll use another V block set up to start work on the itty bitty groove on the face of this and to measure the width I'll use a stack of gauge blocks coming in about 2 thou small but more important than the width is that it's centered and it just so happens that I'm also two thou closer to one side so a light skim along the one side gets me right on target now I'm ready to drill the mounting holes but of course dum dum here completely forgot to leave clearance under the parts luckily I now have a good reference here to reind the part after raising it up a bit now I just have to make sure not the blast through the bottom too abruptly what now the last job on here and yes actually the last job is to counter board the other side for the mounting screws I could manage this with an endmill like I usually do but I do have a whole stash of actual counterboring bits here that I sometimes check for the right size these have a pilot boss that keeps the tool centered on the hole H look at that I found one exactly the right size so now I just have to hold this down somehow so I can count boore this baby and I think I have just the thing sure I could just clamp this to the table but it's a whole lot more funner to actually use tools I made the big advantage of this counterboring bit is that I don't have to spend a bunch of time locating the center of the pilot hole I can just drop it in place clamp the part down and go to work is it just me or do these parts look ridiculously small hey Brandon what do you think that small that tiny very very cute is very cute tool it's going to be very small okay okay sorry I asked let's just stick to the Machining starting with the body we'll start this one off with some facing turning and a little Drilling and then we're ready for a whole lot of boring which is my favorite thing to film because you can see exactly what I'm doing anyway this is basically what I'm going for here and after boring the smallest diameter I'll just keep this tool mounted and work through the rest or not I just love the sound of money dropping into the chip tray I guess I was getting a little too aggressive with my cut so no one to blame but myself I think the name on the box is appropriate this time fortunately I've got this opened up enough that I can use my regular insert boring bar to finish this out and of course test the fits of the bearings along the way now for some super sketch threading to match the locking ring I made earlier and I say sketch because as if blindly threading inside a boar wasn't stressful enough my tool is just barely small enough to actually fit and I can't disengage the thread feed at any point so yeah I got to be on my game here but thank goodness for Dr and vfds and of course an ample helping of OCD so I'll spare you the 20 odd passes it took me to get to the point where the ring threads in perfectly now I can finally tie up one of those loose ends with the bearing in place I'll screw in the locking ring and then face this down flush with the body with one loose end tied up I've just created another I have to work on the next piece before finishing this one so let's work on the spindle have to use the leftover stock from the locking ring for this and I'm glad I didn't chop off this bad end because I would have really screwed myself pun intended the features on this end are conveniently smaller than the old threads on this so it works out perfectly this side gets turned down to a snug sliding fit for the large bearing before I work on the other end though I have the board to address the instructions recommended saving this for last after everything else is turned down and using a steady rest for support but my steady rest doesn't get nearly close enough to the Chuck for this to work so instead I'll do this while my material is still at its largest diameter for the most support and to do the boring I'll have to mount my backup cutter which is even smaller so hopefully I learned my lesson oh yeah oh yeah nice gosh that is probably the most perfect fit I've ever bored after putting a slight 60° chamfer on here I'll bring the live Center back in and work on the rest the smaller diameters on the back side here are recommended to be cut in the same exact setup for maximum concentricity and to do that things are about to turn upside down no literally I don't have a right-handed cutter so I'll do the next best thing and just flip this one over I just have to reset the height and always remember to run the Lae in Reverse as in not that direction I'm really burning through the tooling on this project sheesh let's try that again one of the critical measurements here is the thickness of this largest section it sets the distance between the large bearing and the thrust bearing it needs to be pretty spoton so things aren't rattling around or too tight so rather than use the values from the drawing they suggest actually measuring the distance with the bearings in place I'll take the depth to the thrust bearing then subtract the distance to the radial bearing and also subtract its thickness and that's my target so back on the lathe I'll take that down to thickness and work on the remaining diameters which of course I can't test fit so I just have to cross my fingers that my micrometer is reading true all right let's see if I messed anything up H seems like the locking ring doesn't want to seat all the way it's actually Proud by almost 20 thou sorry I mean half a millimeter I'm actually at a loss for where I went wrong even remeasuring everything I still get the same exact values but those obviously aren't correct I didn't want to do this but I guess I have to recheck the part and make some modifications luckily even after remounting there's almost no run out so no big deal to come back in here and shorten up everything much better the locking ring sits down flush and there's no play in the bearings just one more thing on this spindle a simple set screw hole on the side for mounting the brooches and this piece is finished which means we can finally come back in here and finish out the rest of the body we'll start with Milling a very shallow flat on each side 180° from each other leaving just a bit untouched at the end and this clearance hole will give access to the set screw we just added to the spindle now clamping on those Flats I can mount the body Bottoms Up and at a slight angle but the exact angle is kind of important so I'll use this 1° angle block after coating the top face and layout blue I'll bring in the fly cutter and shave down the face a little bit at a time since my part is already at length basically once that last sliver of blue disappears I know I've gone the right distance but that finish looks like doodo so let's swap to a fresh insert and take one more light skim pass or two there we go I'll use the TOA like before to find the center line but because this is at an angle I have to get the stylus as close to the top Edge as possible and then I can cut away the sides making a little tab in the middle just like on the shank this tab needs to be right on center line but the width also needs to be dead nuts so after a lot of very light adjustments I get something that pleases my anal retentive the shank slide smooth as butter in One Direction while having absolutely no play in the other just like it needs to be the last step is just Drilling and tapping the two mounting holes for the shank screws only thing to watch out here for is that I don't drill through to the bearing surfaces inside I would be devastated to mess something up this far along son of a I'm just kidding those holes are supposed to be off center and that's actually really important the broch has to be at an angle to work but the tip also has to be on Center Line or it will break trust me I know so this offset in the back helps get the tip of the brooch back on Center Line and the slightly oversized holes give a little bit of adjustability to get this spot on when the time comes but before I can do that I'm going to need a brooch so guess what we're making next the kit came with some analed silver steel for the job and even though it cuts like butter now once it's hardened it should be well really hard the key with these blanks is that they're all exactly the same length and despite the drawing saying they should be 28 mm long almost all the commercial 8 mm shank brooches that I found are an inch and a quarter so that's why I'm going to make these next I need to hex up the ends which seems like a good excuse to use my fixture plate to again only this time with the tilting attachment not only am I cutting a hex shape but it also needs a 2.5 de draft angle on the back for clearance so I'll tram the plate to this angle as well with a few locating pins a 123 block a Callet block and a clamping strap pulled down tight with the two jankiest bolts I could find I have a properly complicated setup here just how I like I'll get a rough zero on the end of the blank and then partially cut away two opposite sides flipping the C block then just measure the result and adjust the Final Cut depth before running back through all six sides I should probably also mention that I'm making these about 50 microns oversized from the nominal so I have some Allen key clearance how about that I got the unit right on the first try I talked about my fancy setup here but this is actually really helpful all these locating surfaces make it super Speedy to bounce from face to face and maintain all my references and having made almost all this tooling is a nice cherry on top I only made two broaches for now and I'm saving the last for a future decision but I'm sure you're wondering what sizes I went with well let's just say they're 6 mm and 4 mm okay after a little cleanup chering and adding some Flats it's time for the final step hardening with all the painstaking detail the instructions went into for every other operation I was a little myed at the lack of guidance at this point it literally just says I should Harden these thanks bro ironically despite actually having a second degree in Material Science this is a bit of foreign territory for me but after a little refresher I think I know what to do step one is to heat to a so-called cherry red color that looks pretty red to me for the fastest Cooling and the hardest result I'll dunk and swirl this in water now these should be really hard but they're also probably really brittle so to toughen them up a bit I'm going to have to temper them at 100° C for 30 minutes while we wait for those to bake I've got just a thing to fill the time a side project having sent me both this brooch kit and the die holder kit for my last video it occurred to me that maybe Eric just really really wants to see some bolts made so that's exactly what I'll do [Music] [Applause] e [Music] woohoo they're done ow ow ow ow I'm just kidding just a little spiffing up on these and we're about ready to cut looking sharp I've got everything back apart here so we can do a proper greasing and as if all these little pieces weren't hard enough to handle already a pair of slimy nit trial gloves made this a real peach but I got it together and Yep this thing is pretty freaking small just about ready to use it's recommended that the first Cuts being in something soft like aluminum so I'll draw a hole hair larger than the 6 mm hex then a lead en champ for a bit larger than the point topoint hex Dimension okay now we're ready I've left the back screws loose so the sink can slide and find its Center which it does all by itself by bringing the cutter into the test piece so I'll stop and tighten the screws and then continue broaching that is such a nice fit yeah baby after clearing the chips from the bottom I'd say that looks pretty damn professional okay let's try this on something harder like those steel bolts I started earlier no sweat here either There You Go Eric I made you some bolts well they're for me but I made some bolts but I'm sure you're wondering why such an odd shape let's just say next time I need to clamp down my CET block to my fixture plate I'll be doing so in style now this broch is perfectly functional as is but there's still one final but risky task and that's to turn down the outside of the whole assembly oh sorry my camera ran out of memory what did you think something catastrophic happened right at the end nah that never happens to me despite this tool being way smaller than I originally guessed I'm still pretty happy with its performance and it certainly works better than my Jerry rig previous attempt and what's even cooler is I can use this in the mill as well that little oscillation you see is why this is sometimes called a wobbly approach same exact mechanism as in the lathe only here the tool was spinning and the material was stationary I can't really think of a reason why I would actually need to do this but I'm prepared if I do though I might need to refine this second brooch a little anyway thank you so much again Eric for sending along this batch of kits and especially this challenging little guy and hint taken make all the bolts though I'm not sure if that's a curse or a blessing as always thanks for watching and see you next time [Music] [Music] no [Music] oh

Channel: Inheritance Machining

Views: 374,130

Keywords: inheritance machining, inheritance, rotary broach, broach, boring, bolt, fixturing, hemingway, tool kit, threads, spanner, gearing, tapping, chamfer, machinist, machining, machine, machine tools, machine shop, vfd, bespoke, storyteller, maker, cathartic, humor, handmade, youtube, asmr, dad jokes, satisfying, do it yourself, box of shame, mathematics, engineer, desing, design engineering, wobbler, fails, failure, boring bar, bearing

Id: o_OWEGzi3Gk

Length: 28min 6sec (1686 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 10 2023