A closer look at the Juki MO-2000QVP with Gary | Echidna Sewing

[Music] hi everyone it's gary here from echidna sewing and today we're going to be looking at overlockers and in particular i'm going to show you the incredible features on the dukey mo 2000 qvp now this is one of my favorite overlockers and certainly one of our best sellers but first before we dig into that we'll just talk a moment about overlockers for anyone who has uh had one over the the years since they've been out you've probably experienced all the frustrations of threading and and the usability features on many many of the machines that have you know come before this and uh that's what's going to make this demonstration really exciting because you're going to see just how easy it is to thread and use an overlocker that has the right sort of features uh the dukey brand before we go on is a is a incredible product dukie is one of the world's largest manufacturers of industrial sewing machines and certainly overlockers fall into uh kind of that crossover category they generally came from the industrial market anyway and dukey do a fantastic job they've been around since the late 1940s and certainly as i said today are one of the big manufacturers in the world a japanese company and they do really make a terrific product the mo 2000 qvp is their top of the range overlocker so it has the features that will support that and in particular the amazing jet air threading system which means you can thread these things very easily you don't have to sit there with tweezers and you know stand on your head and look for little guides and so on it does it all for you so i'm going to show you that in just a few moments but before we do we're going to go through a run through on just what an overlocker does first so if you're new to overlockers let's talk about that for a minute and the most common overlocker in the market today is what we call a three four thread mock safety stitch and that's what this is so you'll see it has three sorry four threads on the top two of those threads are your needle threads two of those threads are looper threads and we'll talk about loopers in a moment but we all know what needles are so an overlocker has typically two needles and you can use it with either two or one needle and we'll cover that in a few moments as well running through this particular machine a few of the basic features you'll see it has a little lcd panel here and that is fantastic because it gives you all the different stitch types you can do and believe it or not this overlocker has 15 different stitch types that you can use and it's very easy to set so once you choose the number that you want you just follow the guides here and set all the different functions on the machine to the guides or to the the levels that it says on that screen so that's nice and easy machine comes with the lovely little fabric cat or waste catcher that's standard and pull this apart and you'll see opens up nice and easily it has all the onboard tools here uh screwdriver for changing the needles tweezers if you do need to use them a little lint brush and and a pack of needles now great feature about this machine is it uses a standard flat back universal needle so needles are really easy to get you don't have to buy any special type of needle universals are available everywhere in all the different sizes we're going to get into this in a few moments but first i'm just going to close that back up put our little catcher back in there and we're going to run a bit of fabric down through the machine and just talk about what the stitch that it creates now this is is all threaded and in a few moments i'm going to un-thread it and thread the whole thing from start obviously it has a foot control it plugs into the side of the machine here and i've got this set as it comes out the box in its most standard setting for a four thread overlocker i have two pieces of fabric here just a simple home spun type product and this is the most common application you're going to take two pieces of fabric and you're going to seam them together with this four thread machine so let's run that down you'll see as i'm doing this there's a little cutting blade just here so again if you're new to overlockers this is uh this is what it does there's a blade there that actually cuts the fabric and it goes up and down might even just turn that around a bit perhaps that will look a bit better and that's the blade doing its job there so you need to be mindful on an overlocker that there is a blade and it is sharp and it does cut fabric so if you stick anything under there it's going to try and cut it and so keep your fingers away although it would be almost impossible to get your finger caught in there but let's just finish that seam and uh these are a smooth overlocker now when you get to the end of a seam unlike a sewing machine you can just keep running the fabric out because it does what we call a chaining stitch or chains the thread out through the machine and i might just turn that around a little bit again so we can see that so as we come through you'll see the thread just continues to form an overlock stitch even though it isn't on any fabric now you've got a couple of ways of trimming that you could of course pick up a pair of scissors and cut the thread at this point there is also a little cutting device at the back of the machine just here and you can pull that up and cut it in there but here's a little tip and i've been doing this for 40 years and i tell you it's saved me a lot of time i always just bring my thread around and cut it back under the foot like that and that's the easiest way to do it and there we have it so that is what a standard four thread overlock stitch looks like and that's set perfectly perfect tension perfect stitch and when you open that out your seam is beautiful on the outside so it makes it a whole lot easier when you're constructing a garment particularly on knit fabrics etc that you don't need to use your sewing machine at all in fact a lot of people will make a lot of garments and never even touch a sewing machine they'll do it all on an overlocker so that's what a four thread mock safety stitch looks like and now we might dig in deeper into the machine and have a look at how this machine threads okay so now we're going to get in and have a really good look at the threading and because that is the the number one thing that people like to see you know how easy is this overlocker the thread it's got loads of other features we're going to attach them a little later but we're going to dig into threading straight away because it's so important now as i said this machine is already threaded and you've just seen me run a bit of fabric through it so i'm going to do what most people would absolutely freak out at and i'm going to cut all the threads up here every one of them and i'm going to run those threads through the machine until they're all gone i have now taken all the thread out it is completely unthreaded and i know a lot of people would go ah what have you done to me in fact we we have people come into our store sometimes they actually bring their overlockers in just so we can thread them um and then uh which is fine we're always happy to do that if you are one of those people and you'd like us to do that we'll do it for you for sure there's no charge on doing that um but you don't need to if you've got a machine like this you can throw it yourself so let's have a look all unthreaded i'm going to take the waste catcher off because we need to get rid of that i'm going to open up the machine now and we're going to look at the looper threading first because that's the area that most people really struggle with and you can see we've got our looper mechanisms there we've got this little arm here which is the engaging lever for the air threading you've got a little button here which is the air threading button so how do we do this if we turn that wheel you'll see that the um the machine does turn over you can see the loop is turning over the needle's going up and down but i want to show you a very important thing on the end of this wheel you do have that arrow that indicates which way you should turn the the wheel so you always turn the wheel in that arrow direction there and that's important because to engage the air threading we just need to first of all lift this lever to the up position and then turn the wheel slowly until it locks into place and you'll feel it it will lock and you'll know that that it's ready to use the air threading it also shoots across the little air threading tubes here and in fact i can't turn the wheel now so we're good to thread now this is where i suggest you do need a pair of tweezers i find it easier to use tweezers because thread gets sticky and staticky and gets stuck to your skin so we're going to thread i'll try the blue thread first and i'm going to pull that thread down there now you'll notice that i'm using blue because it corresponds with the blue indicator on the upper looper and this this tension here is the upper looper there is actually a little guide up there that says upper looper as well and all you'll do is you'll follow the path there is a little threading lug down the back there that's easy to see you won't miss that and then we just come down here now you also should always thread the machine with the presser foot in the up position because when the presser foot is up it means that the tension mechanisms are open and the thread can go into the tension system correctly if you don't often what will happen is the thread sits on top of the tension and when you start sewing you don't have any tension so and that's that applies to sewing machines too folks so some overlockers on the market however don't have a thread attention release system so it should be a question you ask because you really do need to have a tension release system on an overlocker so we follow the blue indication indicators here and that will come down into here and of course the um the book has all the instructions it's a fantastic book and there's loads of other dukey videos on our website that show you this as well so i generally pull enough thread through to do this i like you know about i go to about 10 inches of thread and i then just cut the um the edge so it's really nice and and sharp now you then take the the thread that you've got and you put it into this little hole here and it really is um it's it's a fairly large hole it's easy to get into but this is where i suggest tweezers are better because the static on your fingers will often stop the thread from going down there so we just push that thread into there and you only need to get it down about half an inch really or an inch and once that thread's sitting there being careful not to have it caught anywhere else i've got it caught around that little brush there that was silly of me i just leave the thread sitting there now this is magic so the threads in the little hole there's my upper looper and watch what happens when i push this button the thread has now shot through the machine and has now come out through the looper and that is now threaded so how cool was that we'll replay that and you'll see it's amazing okay so we now have the upper looper is threaded now it's time to thread the lower looper and again the same same rules apply we just hook that into the little guide below there and down through there into this little guide here whoops again this is where tweezers are kind of handy because you can get in there easier pull enough thread through and again i cut a nice clean end on the thread and i just use my tweezers and i tuck that thread into the little hole there you really want it to go down about half an inch to an inch that's usually enough make sure it's not going to get caught anywhere here so if we hit that watching here ready watching there it is threaded there is the loopers pink one's done blue one's done loopers are threaded once we've done that we need to disengage the air threading mechanism and to do that you just simply push this lever back down that's it they're all done done and dusted we can close that up now before i do i generally leave about three or four inches of thread just hanging there i'm not worried about pulling it back up through the needle plate and out through the back of the machine some people tell you to do that i've never done that never had an issue and it works fine so now that that's all done i'm going to close that up we're going to close this up and we're going to now have a look at how you thread the needles okay so let's take a look at the needle threading and i'm just going to move the machine around a little bit so you can get a better view and obviously these this has got two needles in here you'll also notice when you look at an overlocker typically pretty much every overlocker i can think of the right needle always sits lower than the left knee a lot of people often ring us and go i can't get my needle up all the way but that's because they're not supposed to be even they're actually the left is is a higher than the right needle it's always important that you insert those needles all the way to when you're replacing if they're not incorrectly then you'll you'll cause some grief and that's um that's not really what we want so this this machine has an auto needle threading device and not many overlockers actually have auto needle threaders but it's not quite as simple as the jet air threading you do have to pull a lever down a bit like a sewing machine really so it's quite clever and very very efficient so same rules apply we take the um this in this case i've got a yellow thread which we just pop in underneath the guide there sorry if i'm in your way again i've got my presser foot in the up position still so the tension mechanism is open and we just follow the guide here there is a little threading diagram i'm pretty sure down on here so if you if you get stuck that's all on the inside cover there and we just simply go under here this is the green dot so we're going to go through to the green slot there and there are two little i'm going to move that down a wee bit there are two little like pigtail guides here one on the right one on the left and what we do there is hook that up into there um in fact it goes up there first so it comes through there into this guide here over to that pigtail and then we need to thread the right needle now to thread the needle on the on the uh the wheel of the machine there is a little raised area that in and there's a little line on the end of the wheel on the end of the casing so you need to make sure that that little raised area there is level with that line and all that does is it means that the needles are now in the correct position for thread using the auto threader so at this point we know the the machine's in the correct position i do want to thread the right needle first and there's a little lever here right there and there's an arrow left and right so we push that to the right and then we just simply pull this down and engage it and then using your tweezers hook your thread into the little fork here we'll try and get a close-up of that and show you but it just sits there like that and then we just raise that lever and that's now pulled the thread through the needle and i just use my tweezers i've got a big long tail there i'll cut that off and that is now my right needle threaded so i didn't have to go looking for the needle eye which is kind of good and the last one i'm going to take this white thread and we'll just hook that in under there again i don't want to get in the way but it's pretty hard to avoid sometimes again my presser foot is in the up position so my tension is open we're under there under there this is the little gray indicator here there's the same indicator and then not only have they used colors but they've also used shapes so this is a pentagon a square a triangle and a circle so this is the actual pentagon and we just pop that into the top level there again over into that section into the little pigtail on the right make sure that my wheel is in the correct position and this time we flick this little lever up to the the left and sorry and then we engage the loop of the needle threader and then using our tweezers we just simply hook that in under there and then lift that and of course grab your tweezers and pull that thread through and there are both my needles threaded my my upper looper is still sitting there at this point i usually cut down to about three or four inches now here's one of the best tips i use and again it's almost foolproof if you take a piece of fabric now after you've threaded the machine remember the stitching hasn't formed yet we've got our lower looper thread hanging down here it's not in the way it's not being caught by anything we've got our upper looper thread the blue thread just sitting out on top of the foot and we've got our two needle threads sitting out on top of the foot a lot of people will tell you to do this they'll they'll make you poke those threads down through the feet and and hold them when you start sewing well here's my tip again i've been doing it for 40 years it's never failed me is i simply put a bit of fabric i'll just open that out i might end up using this piece of fabric again i simply put a piece of fabric under the foot put my foot down and following the direction on the hand wheel i just turn that over three or four times just to make sure that the stitches are all forming correctly and then i start sewing and lo and behold it's stitching perfectly now again when you're trimming the thread as i mentioned before you can come out the back you can use some scissors you can use the guide up here or my favorite is just come around and sew it back under the foot and that trims it off and there we have our perfect stitch and as you can see threading this machine super easy both for loopers and for needles okay so let's have a look at a few of the other key features that you'll uh that are on this overlocker and indeed found on on many overlockers or most overlockers um first one we're gonna touch on is the blade system and how you would adjust the width so the the question that begs is why would you adjust the width of the cutting blade well that will really depend on the fabric you're stitching on so if you're on a a really open weave woven fabric then you want a fairly wide cutting width otherwise you'll find that the the whole seam could fall out of the fabric and to adjust the cutting width it is just a matter of turning this little dial the book tells you all the indi all the sizes that you can go from in fact the book is very good it really does explain in quite plain english how to actually do this but you can go from around about a three millimeter cutting width up to i think about a nine millimeter cutting width and so when you turn this i might just open this up again here when you turn this this whole cutting blade assembly moves to the right or back to the left and so it is important to set that for the to the the fabric that you're about to sew on but generally speaking you'll set it at the 2.5 setting which is kind of standard now how do i know that because if i choose stitch number one on the panel up here which is the standard four thread safety stitch or mock safety stitch rather it tells me that my cutting width should be set uh between one and five so for me i'm going to go in 2.5 is pretty good that's kind of the middle and the reason says between 1 and 5 is because you do have control of that and it will depend on the fabric but i would i would start at 2.5 as a pretty standard setting and you'll see that it can go right in narrow which we might use if we were doing rolled hemming and so on we'll talk about that a little later so we'll just go back to 2.5 there it is it's also telling me that my tensions should be on four so uh you'll see that the all the tensions here are set at four which is how it will come out of the box and this screen will tell you where to set those each one independently for whatever stitch it is you're choosing that's a great feature because you don't have to dig into the book and it just means you don't have to think too hard just follow the instructions here so for standard fabrics on a four thread mock safety stitch i've got my blade set it's telling me that my stitch length should be on the um 2.5 and in fact there is a little marker on the side of the machine we just quickly turn that around a bit a little marker there that's that shows you the stitch length setting is 2.5 for most things and this is the differential feed i'm going to talk about that a little bit later but it has an end setting which is essentially neutral so currently that's where i'm going to leave it because that's what it's telling me to set it at here the next little guide here is the rolled hem finger or the chaining finger that's on the needle plate now a lot of overlockers to convert from normal overlocking to rolled hemming you've actually got to add an attachment or you've got to change the plate this one you don't you just simply flick this lever currently it's saying flick the lever forward for normal sewing and currently it is flicked forward but if i was converting this to rolled hem for instance i would flick it back like that and it will tell me to do that here so right now i'm just going to leave it where it was and this one here is a curious one it's what we call a looper or a spreader device so i can actually run this machine with without the upper loop the lower the upper looper thread sorry by using this little device here which i can engage or disengage and that's what this is saying so it's saying for the setting we have at the moment leave this set to the right and that's where it is i'm going to leave that and it's also saying right around here that the blade should be locked in the up position and that's what i want to quickly show you that blade if we turn the wheel you'll see the blade moves up and down but if i was to flick this little lever around right there that's now disengaged the blade and it's not moving at all that's only for certain situations where you don't want to cut the fabric you might be doing a rolled hem or a blind hem or something and you just don't want to cut fabric you just got to be mindful if you set that to there you can't run any excess fabric into the machine because it will jam up in the loopers and you'll have all sorts of problems and that applies to every overlocker on the market if you don't have the blade set you'll jam up your machine if you're not careful so you won't use that very often but you can disengage the blade when you put that back into position the blade will automatically re-engage again there we go so that's all set okay so that's your cutting width we just talked about how you would use these guides here to set all your tensions and so on and i should point out that changing your tension is just a matter of turning that around but you know what most of the time you're going to leave that on four and you're more likely to have to change that if you're using different threads and so on and again follow the instructions that this machine tells you and you'll always have a great starting point as you build a bit of experience on overlockers of course using different types of threads you do you do tend to work out that and of course we're always here to help you and support you if you have any questions about about tensions but these guys are really fool proof just follow the instructions and they'll work so that's the the cutting device i do want to talk about the differential feed because that's one of the questions people always ask say does that model have differential feed and yes pretty much every overlocker now has differential feed and then i say to people now do you know what differential feed does and they go no i just know that i have to have it you do have to have it every overlocker has it but you don't always use it and i'm going to explain exactly what differential feed is i'm going to take the machine around here and i'm going to lift the presser foot and in fact i'm even going to take the presser foot off for a minute because it's easy to take off and you can get a whole heap of different presser feet for this machine from elasticating and blind hemming and cording and beading and all sorts of things but to take the presser foot off we just lift the foot there's a little black lever just back under here just pop that it's a bit like a sewing machine and lift that right up and you can now remove that whole foot now i'm just going to leave the thread sitting there but i want you to have a look at what differential feed is and for this one i'm going to zoom in really really close to the two sets of feeders here if you've ever sown you know that all sewing machines and all over lockers have what we call feed teeth and here they are but on a differential feed overlock you actually have two sets and they work independently of each other so if i turn this wheel even though there's thread there it's not going to get in any trouble it's just going to keep forming a chain both these sets of feed teeth are currently feeding at the same rate i'm even going to take the stitch length up quite high so you can see it quite drastically feeders come up and now they are feeding the fabric through and then they drop down again as the needles come into the work and that's what feed feeders do and of course they're working against the bottom of the presser foot to feed the fabric now differential feed means that i can alter the ratio so i can tell the machine to make the front feed feed more or less than the back feed and to practically show you that i'm now going to tell the front feed to feed more so i'm going to raise the um the number on the differential feed and i'll quickly turn that around and show you so there's the differential feed dial there so i've taken that from neutral all the way around to two and we'll see what that does back to there and there we go now watch the front feed as we turn this wheel and you'll see if i do it slow enough the front feed is coming up way further forward now and it's actually feeding twice as much fabric as the back feed so in other words we're feeding more fabric into the machine than is coming out of the machine and that means that we're going to gather the fabric so i'm going to show you practically what that will will do in a in a few moments if i went to the other direction if i'm changed it right down to 0.7 now what we've done is we've now made the back feed feed more than the front feed so that will have a tendency to want to stretch the fabric and uh and and so that's often very good on on fabrics that tend to want to pucker up and pull like a lot of knits do that sometimes but more often it's it's it's light woven fabrics that cause that problem so turning the differential feed to 0.7 will actually correct a lot of those issues with certain fabric types so that's what differential feed is it's not anything you know scientific it's just a simple process of changing the the way the feeders actually work so let's just pop this foot back on and to do that we just need to get that in under there lift the foot a bit higher just access that and there is a little spring that has to sit up on that part of the foot just there and once that's in place just lower the foot down and push the little lever at the back and that will now lock into position and that's all there is for changing the feet so let's have a look at what that differential feed might do so here's a little example that i've stitched of using the the differential feed so what we have here is a piece of fabric on top and this gathered piece into the the top piece it's a bit like the skirt onto a bodice or something so if you've ever done any gathering you'll know what i'm talking about but how did we actually do that i simply took my stitch length left it at neutral i think i had it on neutral a little bit higher i went to three i think and i took my differential feed to two which is the maximum gathering now if i take two pieces of fabric exactly the same length and i start sewing that now just make sure everything's set i haven't changed anything it's all good i'm going to start that into the machine and what i'm going to do now is i'm going to gently hold the top piece of fabric and i'm going to let the bottom piece get dragged through now remember they started at the same length [Music] but they didn't come out the same length so that was in effect the differential feed actually pulling that bottom piece through because it was set at a higher rate and i can even get little spreader devices that will actually enhance that amount of gather so differential feed can be used for that but here's another interesting example here's a piece of fabric i stitched before you'll notice one seam is perfectly flat the other seam is quite fluted and again that's differential feeder plate so if i stitch this through the machine again and this is a fleecy so it is quite a lot of stretch in it if i stitch this through on neutral without doing anything to it let's see what happens so we'll take this side here and we'll stitch that down there i'm just letting that feed through under its normal normal way but you can see that still has quite a fluted type of effect it's certainly not flat now i'll turn my differential feed to oh we'll go all the way up to almost two and we'll see what happens now i'll stitch that same side through without me doing anything other than adding differential feed and now it's curled so we've gone from a fluted effect to almost a pulled effect like that and so having differential feed and it being variable you can eliminate a lot of those natural tendencies of fabrics to stretch and pucker and do all sorts of things it takes a little bit of getting practice you know it's getting the right setting but that's what you do on an overlocker you keep all the different scraps of fabrics you've got and you play and you you learn as you go so that's that and that really covers most of the main features on the machine this does have a rolled hem feature of course rolled hemming for instance would be we could go to number seven or eight so let's see what we would do to set up for old hamming because that's probably the most commonly um the common sort of other type of stitch that people use so all we need to do is choose the one we want and i'm pretty sure seven is the one we're going to want to use so we'll go to number seven you'll see that number changes there and that's telling me we're going to use the right needle so this l and r means left or right needle right needle that means we've got to take the left needle out so how do we do that we just simply grab the little screwdriver that is in the kit i'm going to trim back the the left needle thread and what i do is i just cut it there and i just leave it there because it's not going to get into any any trouble there and now i'll take my tweezers and i'll grab that right needle out of the needle eye and i'll just trim that away i don't want that there anymore so that's gone and i need to take the right needle out so to take the or the left needle rather i keep saying the wrong needle sorry about that sorry to confuse you it's the left needle we're taking out so the screwdriver we just undo the left needle screw and just keep holding it'll take it out put it somewhere where you can reuse it because that needle's still fine now i do suggest at this point just nip that screw back up a little bit don't over tighten it just a gentle nip because if you don't that that needle that screw could work loose vibrate loose and fall out and then you'd lose it and then you'd have to get another one and that's just inconvenient more than anything so we've now taken that needle out we now look at this we want our stitch length on one so that's around here on the on the dial here we go to one we want our differential feed on neutral so that's the n and here's the the the little chaining finger i spoke about earlier it's saying now it should be down or forward so we flick that that way uh our upper looper spreader needs to be left in the right position and our blade is still engaged but let's look at our tensions this is where it changes a little bit so we want the the green or the the square tension to be on 4.5 we want the triangle or the blue tension to be on four which it is and we want the pink round circle tension to be on five so that's a starting point and generally it's pretty good now i'm just using normal overlocking thread but for different for rolled hemming often you'll use a decorative thread sometimes embroidery thread works but what we call bolt nylon or a non-spun thread and gives you a great effect so let's have a look at what we're going to get now and we'll just pull that thread through now this is on just a little bit of home spun using standard threads so we'll pull that out and have a look at what we get it's not the best thread for doing a rolled hem on but you can see the it's a very different stitch to what we had over here isn't it and let's do that on a fabric that might lend itself more to a rolled hem often nice little knit thread knit fabric so this is just a lycra let's see what happens here now because we're on a small stitch length we want to make sure we get that thread all started and sometimes you want a fluted effect anyway so in fact that's a really nice looking stitch so let's say that all the way through and there we have a lovely little fluted rolled hem of course they're different colored threads and if you had the same color thread you'd get a perfect effect now if you didn't want all that flute that's when you could turn your gathering effect on so let's have a look and see on the differential feed if we get a different type of stitch here probably get our stitch length down a wee bit more maybe that's gone too far but you can see we've got nowhere near as much fluting there by using our differential feed again if you were using on your top looper thread a what we call a bulk nylon or a woolly nylon or a decorative thread you'd have this lovely satiny looking cover and it really is a stunning finish and it's a great way to finish the the bottom of um dresses and shirts and all sorts of things where that that type of effect is what you're looking for so that's how you set up the rolled hem it's really not that complicated and again little tip just pull that around there and that will cut off under the blade for you so how do we convert it back it's simple we just grab the needle that we had and what's even more important is you've got a little needle inserter with this guy that comes standard so just get your remember i said there's a mark on the side of the hand wheel for setting your um for threading your needles it's a good idea to get that mark set in the correct position there as well and grab your little screwdriver which i put there undo that screw a few turns don't undo it too far because you'll take it out and they're very small and if you drop it you'll probably lose it you don't want that now this little needle inserter is great because you can just pop that needle in there now these use a flat back universal needle and i mentioned that right at the start that's fantastic because they're the easiest needles to get and a universal needle is a mild ball point that works on just about anything so we've got the needle in the needle inserter and we just pop that in under there pop it up all the way now the inserter means that you don't have to have the dexterity in your finger to do that and all you've got to do is then get in there and tighten that screw up and once you've got that nice and tight you can then just slip your needle threader down and needle threader now remember i said the left needle will always sit higher than the right needle so now to re-thread that re-thread that needle i just take that thread that i have sitting there remember i cut it off right back here so it wouldn't get lost i don't have to re-thread it through there we just simply lift that foot come down under there up to there into there into the little pigtail it's the left needle so we make sure the little indicator here is a little lever is on the left pull this down use your tweezers and hook that into there lift that up and the thread is through there's our needle threader all threaded again so we'll just cut that thread off close this up reset everything remember we want to go back to normal sewing so we push this guy forward if you're not sure go back to number one on the settings here because this is just a guide it doesn't change anything on the machine it's just telling you where to set everything i'll go back to neutral go back to 2.5 that's forward get our tensions back on 4 4 and 4. grab a bit of fabric let's um let's join this little bit of uh lycra let's imagine we're sewing a seam there two pieces and we'll see what that comes out like now remember i said i've also i've rethreaded the machine so my little tip is just pop your fabric under the foot turn the wheel by hand a couple of times that gets it all stitching beautifully and away we go so let's see what a seam on a piece of dual piece of lacquer would look like and there's a perfect stitch so no hassle at all converting back to from rolled hem to normal sewing it's really really easy and above all else these machines are smooth they're quiet certainly compared to pretty much any overlocker on the market uh dukie is a great manufacturer there's a good it's a two year warranty on these but honestly i've sold i've sold hundreds of these guys and they're just they're just bulletproof um if you have any other questions on this uh this particular model give us a call there is also the mo 1000 which is essentially the same machine but doesn't have the built-in display and information and uh just as a saves you a few dollars if you'd prefer to have that but um both machines are excellent quality is superb uh results are beautiful and of course as always ekitna is here to support you with any questions you have so please check our website out if and see what's going on at the moment with with prices etc and by all means contact us if you have any more questions at all i hope you enjoyed that little presentation and uh happy sewing [Music] you

Channel: Echidna Sewing

Views: 10,423

Rating: 5 out of 5

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Id: dU0kpYsyvbQ

Length: 39min 32sec (2372 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 18 2020