67. Weathering Chemical Tankers at McKinley Railway.

in today's video I would like to show you how to come from this new model to this weather model without using airbrush [Music] [Applause] [Music] hi my name is Ivana welcome at Mecca Kinley Railway I would like to show you today how to weather bakman chemical tanker each tanker is coming in this lovely packaging it calls Ice Cube Packaging so before you start be careful and check if the model is perfect what are you checking is detailing if any parts of the wagon is broken if it's faulty you send it back to the manufacturer for replacement so this packaging is calling Ice Cube packaging so what I'm gonna do I open it carefully and I will remove a tanker and first I'm gonna have a look how I should handle this tanker so be extremely careful on the fine detailing as here because I can see it's not very hard and easy to break so during the weathering just make sure you're holding your model in a right way firstly I would like to explain you how is the best method to work on bettering so first you need to have a good reference pictures then you make a plan how to work choose the right medium and during the work always look what are you doing and stop if you are happy details you do last for reference pictures we have a beautiful pictures from Paul Bartlett detailed examination of the photographs is very important as you can see on this example we can see what is the color reference for the tankers what we have is reddish don't yellowish tones we still can see through the white and here it's a bit of Gray and kind of like a Earth Earth dirt in a lower body it's kind of like a rusty earthy feel we will use these colors for our work today for today's weathering I'm choosing earthy colors in a red reddish and yellowish tones for instance this weathering powder from hambrone then I have very similar shades of all brushers so it's a ocher rust and Earth clay from company make and also I have a selection of different type of brushes as you can see it's a different sizes from very thick one this color as well makeup brush this is a flat brushes rounded brushes to the very fine detailing brush so as I said at the beginning it's very important to know how you're gonna how you're going to work so looking at this model and the pictures um I usually start with the top and slowly I work down to the under frame so I would suggest to use the following method because is the best because at the end you will be handling the model this way and you want to make sure you don't touch any part of it because we will be using oil brushers and they are very sensitive to touch on the top you can see there is a walkway um this is usually in a metallic dark color so this is what I will do first but what I do first I will apply a black acrylic paint as an undercoat always when you have a white surface and you're going to do darker colors very dark colors do the base as a black for the undercoat I'm using Aquarius black acrylic paint foreign you can start painting straight away it doesn't need any anything if you make a mistake don't worry about it this is the first stage of the painting we will we will go with a lot of layers on the top as you can see I don't need to be perfect and I can have a little bit of black paint underneath it's all the part of the weathering and that's how exactly it will be in a real life we all have a dark shadows underneath of this walkway again I'm thinking how to hold the model I don't want to break anything detailing is very expensive if you wanted to replace it here we go from this side okay and we are done with the top coat I would like to give you one good tip before you start applying anything on your model test your paint before on a piece of plastic and then compare with your reference photograph so I'm using Earth clay or brusher from Mick which you can see already it's pretty close ocher and rust I would say it's pretty close um now it's just a matter how we can do this kind of streaking effects so we can try again on a piece of board first so what do I do first I will try to spread it out I'm using a flood brush if I leave brush dry I'm very much close to the effect I want to achieve so we can go ahead and try but before we do that are we out a few droplets of isopropanol see how much I can achieve streaking effects now is working pretty well so I think I'm quite confident and happy and I can start to weather the real model now so having an earth clay all brush in my hands I will try to apply in a middle on the top and then coming down as you can see clearly from the picture the brush Strokes will go from the direction up to down because that's how we try to replicate and the weathering effect thank you first I would suggest go lightly so you can always add more later on a brush and you go down just try to spread it out again keep the directions this way and then this like a tapping motion it goes lovely like a gradient effect to the sides gain doesn't need to be perfect this was only first touch yeah I'm happy with this I'll move it the other way I'll do the same thing the other side now acrylic paint on the top supposed to be dry so there's no worry about it that I will get this dirty from the previous painting I think this is a stage one it's uh very good we can now move to the different color or different effects for the next stage get ready is a propanol little container brush piece of cloth yeah and there is a propanol and a container [Music] with your brush and you move quickly to the sides foreign these are propanol is reacting with all paint is diluting or destroying the paint leaving the streak effects he's taking a swell from the middle part of the paint is taking a shade of the color which is lovely same time I'm diluting acrylic paint part of the effect a piece of propanol will dry very quickly so you will be able to work on your model straight away like when I turn it on the first sight it's already dry so again I'll have a look on the picture reference picture and I will decide what to do next as a Next Step I'm using Tamiya weathering powders I'm choosing gray color I try to deal with it with the isopropanol again I still have my isoprop panel ready in a little container and following again reference pictures I will apply gray on the end of the tanker and in these areas okay I'm trying to leave it in a stroke streaking movements we can go back to the middle on it foreign gravity I'm happy about it let's move to the next stage the next stage we are applying rust effect on the bottom of the tanker over here again nice and easy you can apply it's a stroke straight away get a brush this time I'm going a little bit lower as well the underframe thank you and I work from down towards the top of the tanker you can always [Music] then the other way around be aware not to push too much when you do dabbing effect otherwise you will destroy your brushes very quickly it's nice and gentle don't go too high skip it low we don't want to destroy our streaking effects from a realistic field we will add a shade of ocher and we need to be very detailed and careful what we're doing now because we don't want to apply too much of it so I decided I'm gonna do it a little bit of air here foreign I'm dipping my brush into isopropanol again again comparing each reference picture I would like to have this uh kind of like a cleaner so I'll go back to it it is a propanol on my brush and just simply wipe it up and down the same manner as before I'm gonna add more streaking effects it's always good to have a look on your model from the distance so you can get a little bit of different perspective on it more streaking effects here again using isopropanol now all the shades of different colors blending nicely together now we shall move on on the on the frame we are using dark matte using dark mode I'm applying for streaking effect and for the sides okay I'm diluting my brush being slightly into the isopropyl alcohol now we're almost finished and we are going back to the walkway and we apply metallic effect which is a metallic acrylic paint from Valeria this one is dark aluminum and in some places we can use collector Escape every time you're using metallic color and acrylic make sure you shake the bottle very well because metallic particles tend to be at the bottom of the bottles okay this is a dark aluminum next we apply silver old brusher to the buffer stocks you wipe your brush on the edges of the tube and now I'm going to apply white powder all over and this is the last stage of today's weathering we are using hamburger white weathering powder this effect is giving us um fading effect at the same time the tanker looks like this is used for a long time on a rail and as well as giving us effect you can achieve only with an airbrush kind of like a light Dusty effect and what I like about using this white powder is is bringing all colors nicely together and it makes the whole effect very subtle so just as a comparison this side and the other side you can see this is more like rough all this this is making and everything soft this is the finished item and this is how we started I hope that you enjoy learning new techniques today and we are happy to introduce weathering steam locomotives next time [Music] [Applause] [Music]

Channel: McKinley Railway

Views: 23,148

Keywords: Weathering Tankers, Weathering Chemical Tankers, Wethering Bachmann Chemical Tanker, weathering with Ivana, McKinley model railway, McKinley Railway, mckinley, weathering at McKinley, McKinley time machine, Weathering locos, building a model railway, Model railway design, model railway, model railroad, David Townend, building a model railroad, model railway building, Traincontroller, Charlie Bishop, model railway operation, weathering without an airbrush

Id: K-Rz7uL4YjM

Length: 28min 51sec (1731 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 14 2022