6.0 Powerstroke Engine Removal!!

welcome back to the channel everyone thank y'all for tuning in on tonight's episode now we have a slight change of plans in the 6-0 power stroke project if you will as you can see you might be able to tell yes i have the engine sitting next to me on the hoist so um yeah we're we're just going to get right into this video all right guys so this is pretty much where i'm going to start the video for um you know the process of removing the engine um i apologize for not recording any of the front end stuff but it's fairly simple pretty straightforward basically just going to remove the headlights grill header panel and then there's this uh the cross piece that comes out comes along the front of that there's eight bolts for that two on the front two on the back on each side um i didn't fully remove the transmission cooler just kind of have it hanging out right here uh power steering pump is just kind of chilling out right there as well then obviously you're gonna have to remove all the stuff on all the accessories on the top of the engine all the bolt-on stuff um batteries intake um intercooler pipes and then you'll get the degas bottle fikum ficum bracket turbo up pipes all that stuff and then that's pretty much it um then well that's as far as i have gotten so far um so yeah we'll get into unbolting the transmission there's going to be six nuts bolting the flex plate to the torque inverter and then you have the bell housing bolts um we're gonna have to take the starter off fuel lines of course and there's some more wiring um like down here this power wire um that runs up to the batteries there's a bracket bolted to the engine block so we'll have to get that off um yeah anyways we're just gonna dig right into this thing so uh yeah all right so i've removed all six nuts off of the torque converter studs um and if you are removing the engine you're gonna have the front end apart for doing this you're not going to need to go underneath the truck you can stay right up here you're going to want to get a 19 millimeter now these are actually arp bolts so they are you know they're the 12 point whereas um factory ones are just six point but i believe it's still a 19 millimeter for those and then get yourself a breaker bar so you can turn the engine over by hand and then this is where we're accessing the uh the nuts you're gonna want like a three foot extension or just a bunch of extensions there's a little plug in there so you're gonna wanna remove that and in order to remove the plug you will have to go underneath but uh hopefully you guys can see under there i don't know if you can or not but that's where you're gonna access yeah there we go you guys should be able to see that now that's where you're gonna access the um six nuts for the torque converter you can stay right out front of the truck you don't even have to go underneath and it is uh really easy if they start to round off on you just stop and get yourself a set of the nut extractors i had one that was already rounded off probably from previous install and uh because transmission has been out of this one time i had somebody else do it and uh yeah so i just got um a set of the nut extractors you're going to want one for a 9 16 or 14 millimeter and it just popped right off so i'll show you guys the set that i used and then we're going to get right back into this thing so here are the six nuts that uh hold the flex plate to the torque inverter and actually had two that started to round off on me as you can see this one here wasn't as bad as this one but um i was just using these here 9 16 14 millimeter is the one that you're going to want to use um and they work extremely well those teeth in there just grab a hold of the nut and it pops right out these are not very tight um if they are torqued they should only be torqued to around 25 foot pounds so uh yeah those things will grab right a hold of them and they should pop right out no issues so fast forwarding a little bit we got the starter oh this is actually a 6-4 starter that i did a while back anyways to remove this you have uh just three bolts there are two that are really easy to get to and then the top one is uh a little bit tougher you're gonna want to use a wrench on that probably a ratchet wrench would be best all 13 millimeter bolts then to undo the two power wires you have a 10 millimeter down here and then a 5 8 or a 16 millimeter for that one there and then that is it for the starter so we're going to move on to some other stuff and uh we'll be ready to pull this underneath alright guys so fast forward a few hours it's now dark out actually about 6 pm and yeah we got the engine out i apologizes for not really recording anything but it's just really hard recording it and also you know trying to do the work because it's pretty tight in there and uh it's hard to get the camera in there and yeah i just wanted to get it out it's like 25 degrees out so but now that i have it out um i can actually really go over some of the uh stuff that you're gonna have to remove in order to get this thing out i think we stopped at the starter um so yeah uh uh yeah we also went over the torque converter bolts so the engine harness um i actually just disconnected from the engine and set it off to the side you can disconnect it from the cab i just found it a little bit easier to do it from the engine um you know you have all your sensors in here around the oil filter and then glow plug harness the hardest one uh is the crankshaft positioning sensor which is down here it's a eight millimeter bolt so you can just remove the sensor or you can unplug it [Music] i found that it's just easier to remove it and then unplug it out of the truck and then we can just throw it back in if you have obviously assuming that you have ac uh you will have to remove your ac compressor which is a it's a pain uh let me just tell you that i have the ac delete pulley on here because well we're not running any ac or heat uh yeah it was a lot easier to uh get to the engine mounts and also that sensor there but since you'll have the ac compressor removed sensor should be no problem uh and then actually we'll stay at the front because there's another thing down here so down here this this bolt right here holds a power wire and a ground wire i believe so you're gonna have to take you have to take this nut off first then you'll have to take this stud off back here that actually goes into the block and then you can remove those two wires it basically just holds a bracket on that you know goes around the wires so you can just set those off to the side again and then they run through here in between the engine mount and the in the block so you can just pull them straight out of here and then also running through that same spot going through here in between the engine mount and the block you'll have your block heater so uh you will have to disconnect the block heater right here from the block and then you'll be able to just pull it right out through here that's pretty easy uh this here is a ground that just runs from the cab to the block so i just disconnected it from the cab or you can disconnect it from the block but it's a little bit easier to just disconnect it from the cab that's an eight millimeter bolt um let's see then you'll have your uh bell housing bolts i can't remember how many there were but uh you'll see them i can uh i'll count them when i go back outside but uh the two that are up here are definitely the hardest to get to actually went from the top of the engine and got him out that way i found that as a little bit easier so uh yeah that's uh that's really it actually you'll also have to uh disconnect your fuel lines which i did not mention you just have two right here so uh just get yourself a uh fuel fuel line tool to disconnect those um and then obviously the engine mounts um it's a lot easier if you just take off the two uh the two nuts this these uh these studs go through your cross member and then you have a nut that just holds it on a lot easier to do that spray them with some penetrating fluid and they'll come right out i just used a breaker bar broke them loose and then spun them out with the impact no issues there you can also uh you can take these four bolts out here you'll have two here and then two on the other side that's a little bit more difficult it's just it's a lot easier if you just take the two nuts off of these studs especially if you do if you take off these four bolts here sometimes the oil pan can get hung up on the actual mount because this will still be connected to that cross member um obviously you know if you don't take these two nuts out so yeah just take the two nuts out it's four total instead of eight so yeah a little bit easier um let's see i think that's pretty much it like i said it's really simple um a lot of people say you can't even pull this engine with the cab on 100 faults information a lot of people do it this way especially if you don't have access to a lift all right so hopefully you guys can see out here um yeah like i said it's dark out now so uh yeah anyways there's a transmission torque converter um i had a little fight with the down pipe when getting the engine out um not really sure what happened but the downpipe got hung up on the high pressure oil pump cover so i just ended up removing the downpipe completely so you guys should probably do that as well so you don't have to deal with what i did because i had to lower the engine then i had to take the downpipe off and then yeah this is kind of a pain but should have done it to begin with um as for the transmission i've just got a uh a jack down there with a little 4x4 holding it up um yeah and then here's the mess of an engine harness tucked up in the fender along with the power steering pump those are your two fuel lines here i didn't oh yeah also i ended up removing the bumper as you can see because i couldn't get the freaking engine hoist far enough in if you know what i'm trying to say um so i had to remove the bump i had to remove the bumper so i could push the engine hoist further in in order to kind of get centered in the engine so yeah just go ahead and remove the bumper um that way you don't have to deal with that either it's like i don't know six bolts total or something yeah that's uh that's pretty much it i think this is the uh oops this is the block heater here i showed you guys where to disconnect it from on the engine also make sure you disconnect your map sensor yeah i forgot to do that and almost ripped it out of the truck um here your transmission lines here and then here is here those power wires that i was talking about that are on the block um you have to remove that nut and then the stud and those will come right off yeah that's really it like i said pretty simple um really it's not that difficult and i was doing it by myself so it definitely would be a lot easier with two people but couldn't find anyone to help me so i just ended up doing it myself those are the studs on the torque converter six of them total i already showed you guys those and then uh the bell housing bolts i will uh i'll show you guys those so you can so you know how many they are two shorter ones which are on the very bottom let's put that flashlight away two shorter ones around the bottom and then there is let's see one two three four five six seven more that are the longer length those are all 13 millimeter so yeah nine total nine total bell housing bolts uh again the two on the top are the trickiest that is for sure like i said i went over the top of the engine instead of from the bottom instead from the ground and i found that a lot easier so yeah that's really it i'm gonna go back in the garage because it's like 20 degrees out

Channel: Drew’s Garage

Views: 5,730

Rating: 4.8873239 out of 5

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Id: ASCic9dZmAs

Length: 15min 51sec (951 seconds)

Published: Mon Jan 25 2021