5 Home Sharpening Systems Rated and Explained

hey folks welcome again to the knife lab today we are talking about five different sharpening systems this is a very commonly requested discussion point in lots of comments first of all just for a bit of a disclaimer I'm not an expert I'm a hobbyist at best I just do a lot of knife sharpening because they do a lot of knife testing so you know you can see my other videos where I test edge retention of knives that requires lots of edges to be put on knives and that sort of thing so I've got a lot of use with all of these different systems so five different systems all very different the answer I probably can give in advance is that no there is no perfect sharpening system for every knife guy because you know what there's a lot of different kind of knife guys that's the thing what I'm gonna do is go through these ones are all quite different and just let you know what the differences are what each are best at what each maybe a weaker at and maybe you'll be able to use this video as a bit of reference to make a decision about if you want to get any of these systems or if you want to get a couple of them or just yeah commit to one and try and make it work so and I think with most of these there is an opportunity to do that as well you could probably get by with just one of these if you have fairly basic needs at any rate so today we're looking at the tormek t4 fixed angle sharpening system we're looking at the lansky sharpening system which is another angled system we're looking at the workshop basic knife and tool sharpener which is a convex grinding belt system so again a powered system we're looking at the kme fixed angle knife sharpening system which is a fairly deluxe system I suppose costing you know upwards of a couple of hundred dollars let's say for a basic kit and then we're looking at waterstones bench stones that sort of thing and espousing the benefits and weaknesses of them and all the others so stay tuned let's talk through all them starting with the tormek alright so our first stop is the tormek atomic fixed angle sharpening system this is the most expensive out of all these so the tour mech for what I would say the basic knife sharpening outlay probably at 700 the Australian dollars for a tea for you probably look in 520 or so American this is a very versatile system and it is you can specialize it towards whatever you want to sharpen it is very modular you can buy lots of different things for it which is again probably one of the pricier yeah affecting attributes of it but yeah if you are happy to spend a bit of cash the tour mate could probably do everything you need sharpened pretty much ever as long as you're happy to buy a jig for it so the tormak is fixed angled by the virtue of this rail here and all the jigs having this flat spot here to ride along the rail and keep the evenness between the knife edge and the flat round stone so any mistakes to happen a result of probably human fallibility and accidentally known oxen and jumps so you turn monatomic you see it moves at a pretty pretty low rpm it's not a bench grinder for sure I like to say you think of a more traditional our grinder it would just absolutely burn the crap out of an edge straight away this is quite slow and the cool thing about atomic is literally it keeps the edge cool by having this reservoir of water that you keep topped up keeps the stone clean and it also keeps the ninth cool so you don't ruin the tempura which is really really good as well often powered systems you can bake your edges if you if you do it too much without waiting between so that's the best thing about the tool mech is probably the repeatability of it and also the fact that it keeps your edges cool while you do it it's also great because it does it pretty quickly so the tor max stone here on all but the most advanced steels is probably all you need so we have here is a basic 200 slash 1000 grit stone it can be both because it comes with this device here which is a stone which has a thousand grit side and a 200 grit side and you apply this to the wheel and after a couple of minutes it'll be the grit that you want it to be which is really really cool the negatives of that is that gradually it roads to stone away and it can sometimes unevenly do it as this becomes uneven and then you need to Tru your stone again which I'll get to in a second but yes very very cool and then to strut wheel on the side here which you can also use the railing but I generally just use free hand with the tormak paste apply this at 3000 grit finish which is getting towards a pretty decent polish so yeah it is to know about the tormek the price is going to be probably the biggest thing for most people but apart from that it is if you can imagine something there's probably a tormak jig for it to get it sharpened so and some of the jigs use the side of the stone some of the jig shoes the corner of the stone is really really interesting how they apply this in a pretty basic little setup you the tommix around stone though so if you are thinking of redoing a scandi edge and you aren't happy with having a slight convex then this may not be the tool for you so the edges if you're trying or even if you're a knife maker and you're trying to do complete flat ground it's like and I'm talking you know where you can put a spirit level on them flat this might not be the thing for you because especially the 200 mil wheel the curve is a bit more pronounced the larger wheel may even be less so but it's definitely not the flatness that say like a belt grinder can get you if you're trying to flat grind a knife and so just be aware that every edge you put on is gonna have it and be a matter of microns it's just a micro bevel but it's going to have a slight concave to it so a slight hollowness to it nothing that I would say as an issue you say your survival knives you just put it a bit thicker you know there isn't anything that I've ever noticed in fact in the performance but if you're after the perfect flat you may not get it with this the perfect thing you may not get it with a torn egg especially with the t4 and it's slightly smaller will another thing about the t4 is that this has the basic stone and it has the Japanese water stone the larger tommix which have there of course the more expensive ones you can get the diamond stone and the black stone 1/4 I'm not sure if there's plans to release the diamonds and the black stone for the t4 I think would be very intelligent of them to do that because I think this is the one of the hobbyists are gonna buy to keep their knives sharp this is almost a real competitor price-wise for a full-fledged kme system it does different things to the Kami system it preferences obviously speed and preferences sort of easy I guess and and time over the Kami but yeah it's also probably a little bit more still capable of say if you're an industrial scale knife sharpener or something probably bit more virtuous for those people as well but you'd be really intelligent of them I think two silvers other wheels for the in the 200 mil size 2 so there is that as well Tomac is also a powered system and even though it's a relatively gentle powered system you need to be aware that any mistakes you make will be magnified by that lack of just your arm doing it so you can mitigate this by having it so the stone moves by a place in the right in these holes away from the knife so that is where the knife will be fixed along this way and the stone is moving away from the edge so therefore any mistakes you're making a little bit slower to absolutely ruin anything when that's not when the stone is coming towards you when you've got the setup up here mistakes can creep up pretty quickly on you so you just need to be aware of that as well this is one that does require practice I would say most of these systems require a good couple of dummy dives to get the hands love it before you you know put your good stuff in this one probably more than most because there is that potential to you know put some put some smiles on the on the coils of your blades all that stuff and I've done it and I still do every now and then bikes and usually it's when I haven't noticed my stone needs of refinish but there's just that as well yeah that's the only other thing this stone in terms of consumables Atomics really good there isn't a great deal you need to keep buying for it obviously you need to keep water in there you can keep the stroking paste coming from Tomac if you want otherwise you can just go out and buy a bar of stroking compound impregnate your well with that it's totally fun the wheels will eventually need replacing and I'm talking over a few years probably I'm about two years into this tormak and I've probably taken about a centimeter I saw of distance total space of this and it's usually ball still until it's you know much much closer you're gonna have to change your angle a bit but then the angle finding cloth does allow you to accommodate for right down into the wound gets to 150 millimeters so not a big deal but that's somewhat of a consumable I guess is the stone if you want to get multiple stones you're gonna have to disassemble which isn't the hard thing to do but the stones may be different you know within a couple of millimeters or different sizes so you'll need to do a bit of angle adjusting as well which is fine you do that with anything but in terms of fixing the angle I would say this is probably still the easiest out of all because you don't need that angle cube or smartphone app or whatever so that's the Tomic a little bit less forgiving but very very competent very capable of doing many knives within a day so say if you just want to spend the day sharpen all you knows you'll be able to do it quite easily with this whereas to get a knife where I like it on the Lansky of the kami at least an hour usually so does all the goods from reprofiling to some decent level polishing and I would say the eventual finish like the eventual max sharpness you can get atomic as this current situation without the Japanese stone without any of the other stones I take it to about 80% of maximum sharpness so pretty happy with the tour might call up it's probably my favorite to be honest out of all the systems I just enjoy using it and it's a you know it feels like a bit of a bit of a project sort of a bit of a you can experiment you can move the steel around on the knife page just a little bit easier and experiment with your edges which is what I'm like this is the kind of knife user I am I like to sort of muck with stuff a little bit so it's great for that so it'sthe atomic probably my favorite [Music] all right the next one to talk about is this guy the work sharp knife and tool sharpener so this is a powered sharpening system that is really like a tiny little belt grinder you see little tiny tiny belts there now there are other workshops that are bigger or different to this one this was kind of like the first one I reckon or the first widely sold one so this one is good for doing large tools to a pretty good edge very very rapidly and what you get with the workshop is the basic kit comes with the machine it comes with this guide which is a 20 degree guide and it comes with a 25 degree guide which I don't use and I've put somewhere so I can't really show you that but it says grey guide with the part that you slide the knife into is just a little bit different so it comes with three different colors of belts with the basic kit say green which is like a think of 50 grit or yeah green is 50 or 70 grit really really rough don't use those either and then it comes with this I think - 200 grit belt and then this blue polishing belt which is like a 6000 grit so the jump seems really large but remember this is a powered system this goes at really high rpm so even the polishing belt will take some steel off and sometimes a lot of the time actually it's all you need so the strengths of the workshop are you can rapidly do knives at a fairly safe fixed angle if you're using the guides you can also use it to freehand and steer that steer it around tool so you can use this as a hands tool and bring it to a tool that is in a vise so for example if you want to shop a lot sharpen a large ax or a lawn mower blade or something like that then this is a great tool to do it I've found that with knives it gets you know the edges probably about I'd say 60% as good as you know if you're thinking of like the sharpest edge you can possibly imagine I would say gets to about 60% in there the large part of that is because these edges are micro convex and I found that micro convex edges they are very very strong and they stay at a good working sharpness for a long long time however they're hard to stay at that rule bleeding edge sharpness because of their inherent and their inclination to roundover I just find that that crazy hair popping paper slicing sharpness goes the quickest out of all these however and I certainly still cut food and cut wood and cut all the other good stuff with a workshop edge for a good long time so certainly not the end of the world the workshops also probably the cheapest out of all these to get a full kit even considering the lansky my Lansky kid is kind of extensive in a minute I'll show you that next this one is probably the cheapest out of all of them because it's basically an all-in-one kit in terms of consumables the belts do go fairly often and when I was using this a whole bunch when this was like my main means of sharpening knives my knife tests I was probably going through a couple of workshop belts every week or so if they do smooth over especially on the super steels and their high speed steels and things like that yeah the grits where it's a very thin little belt like knife makers knife making belts wear out quick enough flakes so this is much smaller scale and it does actually do a fair bit of reprofiling to get whatever edge you've got into the 20 degree per side micro convex edge so there is that so consumables are a little higher than some of the others but in general you're pretty much good to go from the immediate so let's look at it a bit closer so this trigger here is a momentary on trigger and that's all this one has I'm sure I think some of them do have fixed on this triggers but this one you got to hold it because it seems like they're soon as you let go it snaps off so what it does is it pulls the belt around at a fair rate or knots and you put your knife in and as long as you hug this guide with your knife is in let the knife go all the way down to the bottom you're gonna have a sharp 20 degree edge on either side [Applause] [Applause] so pocket knives do I recommend the workshop well not particularly to be honest there is like with every powered system there is margins for error and this one can be quite unforgiving to the tips of your knives and also to the general straightness of your blades I have one keyed up a fair few of my blades using the workshop and it's a it's not a pleasant thing to have to get fixed because lost knife tip you need something like a tormek to go and put that back on or like you know pretty precise stone sharpening set and stone sharpening skills for certain so that's what we the main thing I wouldn't really recommend for your like pocket knives for you especially if your nice pocket knives what this is great for is sharpening your big choppers so your our tattoos your tarababu cos your axes and hatchets those sorts of things whether you use the guide or whether you just take it off and freehand using the lighter two belts you're gonna remove a little bit of steel in a pretty even way as long as you've got good control you can always keep the guides looked on and any knife up to about you know a quarter of an inch thick is gonna fit into these fairly comfortably and fairly evenly and then you just pull it through so for your big names which you really don't want to either dick around with on the K Emmys or your Lansky systems or even if even the tormek although it has a large knife guide you know the really big stuff can often be pretty overwhelming to sort of manage all of it so this is great for your big knives if you're a big knife guy a workshop style model is a great idea machetes or lesser stuff lawnmower blades for more of a home maintenance sense your lawn mower blades your edge trimmer blades all that stuff stuff you can put decent convex edges which is all those kind of tools really need on with the workshop especially with your coarser green belts which as I said I don't really use but um certainly is there so this is a great tool for more you like your house to your garden tools you can shop and get your shovels sharpen the edges of shovels with this my codes to a special-forces chapel has micro convicts chisel edges all way around and it's a really really good tool for thats just your knives probably less great is it's really well pressed but unless you've got that real good control then you're gonna have maybe a couple couple few less tips in your collection which isn't great another thing is from a clearance point of view if your knives don't have sharpening troves you can often get hung up from where the knife begins on this plastic edge of this guard here which isn't great either so yeah the workshops probably not the one tool option that say the tour makers but then it's about a fifth of the price for a full system so it's definitely going to do a lot of your sharpening if you have edges in your house but for the pocket knife guy I wouldn't recommend this particular workshop model having used it for quite a few years now [Music] so next is the Lansky system so the Lansky system is a very primitive version of like the kami or the wicked edge we're not primitive but just basic you've got four variable angles you can start with of course this'll all need to be verified by an angle cube or an angle app on your phone or something else because depending on how tall the blade face is this is gonna be slightly different angle so that's just something to remember but you generally if you're after a delicacies blade and you put your locket somewhere in the middle of the clamps it's gonna be pretty much on the money it's just with your larger stuff for your smaller stuff you might have to just double check if you are after an actual stated angle so to speak so using it right now the floors to me sort of somewhat apparent because this thing's worn out like it is it's worn out pretty much almost entirely largely it's because the rubber that holds the the knife in begins to degrade as the knife gets moved around during sharpening or like just the the application of the rods the jaws here aren't as sort of young as well made as the Kami's and you know this is a much much cheaper tool it's just a piece of rubber that holds the knife in the good news is you can pretty much do most of what you can do with a kami on this even if these angles aren't sorting you out then you can just usually extend or you know invert the knife in in the jaws and so have more or less as you exposed and that will help you with edges as well what you basically do is you choose your angle and you wear away your edge like so and as long as you keep the same pressure there's a little bit of given the holes as long as you keep it down on the blade that angle is going to stay the same so it is definitely a completely capable fix a neural system what you need to know though is that the basic Lansky's come with a few different stones but to get the most out of those key system you gotta start spending just a little tiny bit there is a whole bunch of different stones you can get I have found that the diamond ones are the most essential because actually especially when you're looking at smaller surfaces like this you want to be removing as much material as you possibly can so the ceramic stones are fine the Arkansas stone is fine for like your carbon steels and whatnot but the diamond stones which is you know this one this one this one these are the ones that are actually going to remove the material for you at a good rate or knots and when you're using the Lansky this is definitely the slowest of all these systems when using the Lansky time can sometimes really get away from you and so then the price of the system isn't any longer the selling point of it because these are all you know fifteen to twenty dollars each there's probably an extra 60 or $70 worth of stones there especially given unless you go straight out and buy the diamond set you're still going to want to get a couple of these really smooth ceramic stones to do your sort of edge finishing and your polishing so this is one thousand this is two thousand and this is what can get you sort of your mirror edges on using the lens and you can get a mirror edge with olanski even on the really sort of high-end stills it just takes a whole lot longer a great starting point in fixed angle sharpening for sure you can pretty much get on board for you know 70 80 Australian dollars maybe a hundred or so if you want to get the diamond kit and then just pick up whatever other stones you need how about a couple of really generous viewers send me their stones like these serration stones here and a couple of the Arkansas stones and this sort of rounded stone for recurves and such yeah it's it's a competent system it's just compared to the kami and compared to the others it just takes the most time and it is a bit of a drag to use compared to what you can get for more money but if you are money limited and you want that polished edge you can most certainly get it with the Lance q don't let anyone tell you any otherwise you just need to add or for longer and that's all there is to it it's totally fun there is no shame in having the is your only sharpening system for knives in fact if you have pocket knives you'd do better having this Lansky system than having the workshop system because well this is more versatile for other tools this is going to do your pocket knives properly in terms of the edges that you probably want as a pocket knife guy so yeah no shame at all and the humble Lansky system certainly still packs a punch just takes a little while longer to get there all right the next one we'll cover is this the kme system so the Kami is one of these sort of there's a bit of a trinity of the three there's the wicked edge there's the kme and then there is the viper sharp I think there might be another a couple of other ones too these are the ones that I like the Lansky's but much more precise and also much more expensive so the same basic principles apply though having a rod having a clamp that holds a knife in place and choosing your angles by sliding up and down this allows for much more precision though and the stones are much higher quality and they are larger so it does everything a little bit quicker and a little bit more steady the general quality of the piece is apparent it comes in this nice case it comes with well my system came with the diamond stone so this is a diamond base you can get ceramic based if you do would like ceramic more diamonds I would suggest the best for the average user because they do it a bit quicker and they do do it quite neat especially when you get up to your extra fine and 1500 grit so the Kami comes with a I think the basic kit comes with a course so an extra course a course the extra courses in there now 240 grit so he comes one hundred and forty three hundred six hundred and fifteen hundred you can and I recommend getting the Beast stone as well which is 50 grit if you're working with the super steels the 50 grit will take off the stuff you know noticeably quicker and then you need it up with the 140 you can also get a 100 which I probably recommend as well because if you're after if you're chased in the mirror and this is what this kits for the people chasing the mirror finish or the really accurate finish then you want to have enough increments that your scratches are getting in easily overtaken by the next set of scratches on the surface of the knife so the Kami you grab your knife you open the jaws by pushing the spring at the back you let it take the knife into the jaws you straighten things up putting it about as in center of the blade as you can and then you get your angle now again with the same with the Lansky although this there is even numbers on the side here and what I've done is I've turned this upside down because you can get closer to the edge and lower angles I like my laurels you can turn this back up the right way or whatever so you unscrew this at the back doesn't screw there and then you can slide this up or down and effectively choose your angle however I recommend getting for your phone a a nap or something they can sit on the back here and make sure you're actually getting your angles there generally as I said about route with a delicacy knife but if you're getting a longer blade or a shorter blade this is going to be added a bit further and so the angle has changed just a tiny little bit so what we've got here is a it's probably sitting at about 17 I'll just stir it up just a little tiny bit so again these are just moving up and down using that diamond stone just to start with reprofiling the edge and then eventually you're gonna bring the edge to a nice polish and that's the best thing about the kme the polishing so kme cells these micron films which sit on glass plates that in conjunction with the oils will bring a knife up to a mirror polish and you can see numerous videos of mine where a mirror polished the edges and mirror polished edges on most steels do seem to a look nicer and B lasts longer some of your high speed store as tools stills will do better with a coarse finish so say stopping at 600 grit or 1500 grit maybe but usually 600 so say your wrecks 20 over 120 once you're in fours your CPM 125 days those crazy Steel's K 390 they'll cut release rope longer using the coarse edge but Camie is really the knife nerds sharpener and these sorts are the ones chasing that really flesh looking mirror finish for the Instagram or whatever or just for your own admiration nothing wrong with that you see there the grits that you can get up to using these films 160,000 grit that's like that is proper that's what you'd make a house mirror with you know almost it's crazy so really really well really well done finishers are possible with the kami for sure it's rather expensive this was an inactive insane generosity sent to me by Nick Shabazz for me to keep doing my edge testing and whatnot with ends it's I am a very lucky person for that like this is a lot of money though this is about for the kit that I've got here is probably getting towards about 350 to 400 US dollars for the films and stuff as well the base everything a pretty basic kami said I thinks you know low 200s early to hundreds maybe high 100s but if you want to do the things that you want the kami to do which is your mirror ages your variable grits all that's the stuff because you're a knife nerd and you want the nerdiest knife you can get that's me then yeah you're gonna want to invest just a little bit more in terms of consumables the stones will last you a fair while the diamond stones unless you push really hard and I'm gonna wear those diamonds off but even still I think we always do that at first when we get one of these kits and mine is completely fine still my beast still cuts my all mine's still cut really really nicely the films I found myself going through them fairly quickly that's probably just me overdoing it and changing them too quickly but as I've learnt the system I have gone through probably more films than I should so I am in the process of ordering some more now one tricky thing with these for Australia they don't seem to have a particularly robust dealer network in Australia so you do need to buy them maybe from kmm themselves which is going to attract a pretty heavy shipping price so that's one other thing that I would point out these these kind of systems are the ones for the ruin it's like the runs that really love their they love knowing what my thing was they have and they love knowing you know what grip finish it is and all that sort of good stuff you can really enjoy sharpening with these a good shopping session will take about an hour or so from blunt to mirror-polished but if you're the type of person that doesn't sound like a chore to then this is definitely a system for you I haven't used any of the other ones that are comparable the vibe for the wicked I do any of those ones I'm sure they're all very very good in their own ways however the Kami is excellent and it's so different from the tormek and I like it almost as much as the tormak because sometimes you just want to spend a night with a glass of wine or a glass of scotch and just sharpen a few knives and get that mirror on them and there's that satisfaction of having seeing the reflections in the edge that is you know quite you know quite remarkable so I would definitely suggest if you have the money and you were really into your edges then the kam is almost a must or a similar system to this is a must velasca can do it but the larger stones the increased precision just the extra robustness of it once you get it all makes sense I was thinking myself adding Lansky's fine I can just make do with that it does take a little the same thing it does but this does it so much better and it is it's hard to argue with it once you've actually got one in hand so I'd certainly recommend wholeheartedly the Kami easily my second favorite if not tied with the tormek they're both just do such different things so yeah that's the km each system the best results of all of them so you'll be able to get a hundred percentages so you'll be able to get the sharpest possible edges higher degree of variability some negatives I would like to see some proper penknife jaws so jaws that were narrower and no logistic where it's hard not logistically but mechanically it's hard to have something that applies even grip and holds even a flat ground knife evenly in place whilst also maintaining you know a lower angle oh let's see them try maybe just extend them a little bit so you can get those really high angles it does seem about fifteen or so with the blade out is about the limit of this kami and this current set up and that's with this lowered that's just my experience you may be able to do better and that's totally cool but I'd love to see that from the Kami the tormek you can do whatever angle you can buddy imagine and that's where probably what I like the most about the torment even still [Music] lastly the bench stones that's right bench stones bench stones are the hardest one to use at all so some people have learnt their whole lives and they'll usually tell you how do you know if someone can stone sharpen don't worry they'll tell ya is pretty good like one of those types of jokes but yeah it's a to be honest it's a skill to be proud of as well so being able do stone sharpen is a pretty cool thing to be able to do my grandpa gave me the easy way look I ended up getting these when he passed away and he had his kin stone here and then he had some smutch smaller stones ki Tisa sharpened small chisels to make violins with so there you go but a stone you can sharpen anything with as long as you've got the skill and as long as you're happy to have patience and learn consistency because that's the main thing so my kit my stone sharpening kit is to best the brand stones one at 700 grit and one at a thousand grit and then I have a king stone which was my grandpa's at 4000 grit and then I have a handmade strop that I made years ago that still works pretty good and just use different compounds on it compounds again all different sorts they'll eventually roughly translate into great finishes generally they're usually about you know between 3000 and 200 thousand depending on if it's a sprayer or whatever if it's a stick there's a hole you could do videos and videos on stone shopping and I recommend you check out michael christie we defend big brown guy those guys know about this stuff all I'm still talking about is in comparison to the other sharpening methods and results was probably equal to the Kami if not some dudes will be able to get better than the cannoneer with stones it's all about the skill me I'm very much UC student I can probably match my work sharp edges using the stones but that's probably I just haven't sunk enough time into it to be honest a I'm excellent at it yet in terms of cost it's not the cheapest if you want the good stones that are gonna last and that are going to cut well and not going to bind up and all that so good stuff you're generally looking at about at least sixty seventy dollars per stone in Australia probably forty or fifty in America my bestest stones are about 80 bucks each these King stones are probably 110 or so generally you find the finer grits better you're from a hardware store you can get a combination 200 700 stone that will get you started but if you want those finishes if you're talking I'm a knife note I want stratospheric finishes you're gonna have to spend money and especially when it comes to sharpening high-speed stills and things like that the water stones they're probably not going to do as much for you as you perhaps want from this kind of system you're going to want to go and get some diamond abrasives so some diamond plates and you know they're all sorts of folks make them they're not hard to find but you just want a bit of variation in your kit so I would say the overall outlay I mean oh now you gotta know sure if you're watching I would say you know if you're say big brown guy here would have spent ya thousand on all your stones it's to be an enthusiast of this type of sharpening like anything else you need to lay the money down but you can get good decent edges for you know probably 100 and 120 bucks worth of stones I suppose you can make your stripes no problems at all but you know compounds all that so thing your consumables too so it's not the you often think I'm the most rustic is the cheapest it's really not if you're talking about knife nerd edges it's really not saying it's just what I found but yeah as I say there's the satisfaction of learning a proper skill and also the eventual finishes you can get it great one thing you do need to know is that the most common edge for an amateur stone sharpener is going to be a convex edge because that is just the way you know less strict movement goes some people love the convex edges look at man Dover at Dutch bushcraft he loves his convex edges he shines everything up convex is on purpose no problems at all it's just a matter of an you're not gonna start getting your real precise edges unless you're gonna ask Andy Graham you can hug the stone with properly or if you've got that shortness of hand the only really say in the really death sharpens as I said check out Wade a fan Michael Christie big brown guy those guys will hold the stone in one hand and sharpen and get amazing results that you would that would rival if not beat a kme system so it's just a matter of inputting the energy in the time building up that muscle memory and you'll be great so yeah I am as I said I'm not an expert on this stuff that's just my thoughts on the five different sharpening systems that I have as I said the tormak is probably my favorite I feel like a real tinkerer when I use my atomic I feel that's got a whole bunch of versatility and it's just the most fun for me and I like the quick results it gives you and also the way you can really dial it in to be nice and precise and do your crazy angles and that's their stuff I'd really recommend the kme for any real knife guys though because you're probably happy to fuss a bit more over your knives and you may be really chasing that mirror polish kme is wicked edge type systems they're easy enough to pick up as in it's reading the manual and just doing it and you get I was on mirror polished edges straightaway so really really cool like that the Lansky there is nothing wrong with your Lansky at all it's a great entry level system if you want to see what may be the Kami's will do for you if you're happy to spend that extra you know triple the price or whatever it is then awesome start with a Lansky use it for six months see if you really like that workshop mainly for your overall edged tools around your house I would suggest pocket knives just that air of danger with the tips and just with you can strip out that still pretty down quickly as well great for your heavy choppers great for your lawn mower blades great for your axes free-handing stuff really really cool but for your knives probably the least recommend that I would suggest feel like your nice pocket knives if you're a knife guy and then yeah bench stones well if you are happy to learn a skill and happy to sink some money in which you will need to do then I think bench stones maybe the most satisfying because you can get edges that are just crazy as long as you've chosen your materials and your stones right and you've any learning little trade so it's that too so all five have Samir I think I hope this has been of some use to you watching seeing all the different systems and I thank you all so very much for watching and I'll see you all in the next video goodbye

Channel: Cedric & Ada Gear and Outdoors

Views: 204,898

Keywords: EDC, Tool, Survival, Bushcraft, review, Win, Fail, Every, day, Carry, Comedy

Id: espj9njITkE

Length: 37min 45sec (2265 seconds)

Published: Sun Sep 02 2018