5 Best Dress Watches | Watchfinder & Co.

the dress watch is perhaps the hardest watch to master it has to be simple it has to be manual wined it has to have no complications small seconds at a push and it has to be small both in diameter but more importantly thickness this leaves very little for a watchmaker to hide behind only the quality of the watch making itself left to do the talking how do the very best brands in the world do it [Music] this vision occult maybe the cheapest watch here at 12,500 pounds but not by much in the company of the top three watchmakers in the world it's got to pack some serious punch to have any chance of competing solely on the grounds of excellence heading up the spec sheet the master ultra-thin has a profile of just 4.0 5 millimeters thick you know a watch is thin when the figure is quoted to two decimal places this is thanks to the calibre 8 4 9 as usual occult movement that itself is only one point eight five millimeters thick in skeletonized form it's found in the world's thinnest watch the master ultra-thin squirt but it's no new movement the 849 has been in existence since the 1990s and it's almost identical predecessor the 839 since the 70s some have tried to compete with it and failed jojoba cult always emerging back on top this is because making ultra-thin movements is no new thing for the brand in fact the partnership of Edmund JJ and Jack Savin occult happened over a bet to make an ultra-thin movement this is a company that operated to such degrees of minut accuracy it had to invent an instrument capable of measuring a micron in order to do so the crazy thing is that this caliber 849 isn't even the thinnest movement Jellicle made that bet resulted in Jacques David Lee Colt creating the calibre 145 which measured in at a scant 1.38 millimeters thick it's this kind of unmatchable talent that secured movement supply deals with three of the other watchmakers in this feature and also why the jeweler could master ultra-thin deserve to share a spot beside them at 40 millimeters in diameter and 6.79 millimeters thick this fashion constant and patrimony may seem lardy compared to the paper-thin called but that's a bit unfair sure Sheila Colts basic ultra-thin with the self-winding caliber 89 6/1 is a comparatively beefy 7.8 millimeters so with some mental recalibration this patrimony 6.79 millimeters is actually very good sitting somewhere in the middle of this selection and that's not the only stat that's bigger than those usual occult you'll pay some 4000 pounds more for this over the master ultra thin but then you're getting details like the applied logo and markers and even more impressively the engraved minute dots the silver gray dial also has a subtle curve to it that mirrors the gently sloping crystal but the big difference aside from the jump to a top three-tier watchmaker is in the back where it can't be seen in the tradition of the simple thin dress watch there's no transparent case back here but underneath is something truly special the Vacheron Constantin caliber 1400 may not at two point six millimeters thick be as two-dimensional as the mind-boggling caliber eight four nine but what it gains in size it makes up for with one little symbol the Geneva seal this commendation of the city of Geneva is worth the entry price alone a certification that demonstrates the cab of 1400s resilience to the most rigorous of scrutineering the testing takes two solid weeks and covers every single component in painstaking detail even the slots in the screw heads must be finished to perfection patek philippe Scalla Travie v 196 r is not the thinnest watch here and nor the caliber to 150 s inside it the thinnest movement in fact this is the thickest watch of the group despite protect Philippe's colossal provenance at sixteen thousand eight hundred and fifty pounds is also the second most expensive watch here the most expensive manually wound and it also bugs the trend by slapping a small second on the dial to quality is no more impressive than most of the others here either so why should the Patek Phillipe Calatrava be a contender on paper it comes across so so particularly given its chunk at seven point six eight millimeters thick is heading for double the usual occult well here it is the reason the Calatrava is such an important watch in this company is because it's the one that wrote the rulebook set the trend back in the days of pocket watches a high-end manufacturer wouldn't be seen dead with its name on a wristwatch and then Patek Phillipe changed that granted it was financial hardship that dictated the decision for the Stern family protect Philippe's then new owners who in 1932 commissioned designer David Penney to create something new and exciting and never-before-seen in the aftermath of the lavish an ornate pocket watch the results were shocking small smells reserved the karat rava was everything high watchmaking was not and not only did the Stern's released this new watch under the historic Patek Phillipe name they made it the flagship this tradition this heritage it was all new at this point in 1932 and it was Patek Phillipe that made it so it's hard to imagine what we consider now to be timeless being not just fresh but a revolution and even harder to believe that it was actually a difficult pill to swallow but here we are now calling these watches classic and it's all thanks to the Calatrava the inclusion of Odom our PGA in a collection like this shouldn't be unexpected it's one of the top three and despite its reputation for being a one watch brand demonstrates serious credibility on the watch making fronts both in its history and with this jewel Audemars extra thin what is something of a surprise however is the appearance of residual occult for a second time remember when I said that residual occult supplied movements to the top three well this odd marpie casual Audemar extra thin still has one ironically it's this usual occult caliber 920 movement that makes up the most of the jewel Audemars extra thins whopping twenty three thousand pound price and when you check the spec you begin to see why firstly at 2.45 millimeters thick it's thinner than all the other movements here except the other shows own occult and despite that is automatic is also the only movement ever shared by all three top watchmakers notably in the Royal Oak the Nautilus and the to-to-to which later became the overseas but the really impressive part about what Odum RPK calls the caliber AP 2120 is its engineering which you actually get to see through the clearcase back thanks to the slenderness of the movements the case is still one of the thinnest here and that's despite the over-engineering that should look old is so famous for examples of that the rotor weights rather than cantilevering its mass out over the movements is supported at its edge by four rwby rollers that run on a low friction beryllium copper rail being that this are long and zonah saxonia thin is the only german here stereotypes would suggest that it would be the efficient choice the price certainly suggests such being the second cheapest hereafter the jeweler caught by just one thousand pounds and the Bauhaus simplicity of the classic dress wash is certainly not going to be an issue and despite the extra thickness of a sapphire case back the watch is only a millimeter and a half thicker than those usual occult making it the second thinnest here but can the German compete with its Swiss counterparts on matters of the heart as well as the head it's hard to believe given present company that the are long and zona is the most delicate watch here not so much in a physical sense I'm sure it could probably stop a bullet more in its design the logs are small and slender the bezel a wisp around the dial which itself is set with markers barely a hair's width it's as fresh as a glass of cold water the caliber l0 93.1 sings a similar tune clear of fuss and clutter leaving the landscape free for the watchmaking to tell the story from the long curving click spring to the screwed gold chatons every aspect of the movements execution is dedicated to watch making excellence even the engraved balance uniquely accomplished by hand demonstrates technical perfection in the construction of this microscopic engine when you're comparing the world's best it's usually a matter of marginal differences but these five couldn't have been any more different from the traditional to the technical the humble dress watch demonstrates so much variety in its makeup its simplicity so pure that the personality of each watchmaker shines through clear and true the hardest part is choosing which of these dress watches is your favorite and why is there another you'd rather have let us know in the comments below discover more exceptional watches at watch finder dr. dot uk' if you enjoyed this video please like and subscribe if there are any other watches you'd like to see reviewed please let us know in the 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Channel: Watchfinder & Co.

Views: 631,460

Keywords: watches, watch, watchmaking, watch review, luxury, review, rolex, breitling, omega, jlc, vacheron constantin, patek philippe, pp, audemars piguet, ap, a. lange & Söhne, best dress watch, best dress watches, best dress watches for men, the best dress watches, dress watches, dress watches for men, dress watch, teddy baldassarre, mens watches, mens dress watches, top dress watches, luxury dress watches, top 5 dress watches, affordable dress watches, watchfinder, watch finder, law owe pin

Id: -IhLdcWhKlg

Length: 11min 15sec (675 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 14 2019