4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners

I think most of us can agree that shipping is not an easy technique it takes practice experience and patience to make it look in scale and interesting badly painted chips can destroy an entire model that you spend months building and painting so what would think it's best to just avoid chipping rather than try and learn the do's and don'ts in this video I'll share a few tips which I learned over the years and then show you four easy techniques that I guarantee will make you a better chipper what is up mates what's happening let's start with some quick explaining where I'll be using a combination of videos and photos for my older builds to better get the point across I'll be using these side screens from an old out-of-the-box model which I'm never gonna finish because I built myself a slightly better one they already have filters oil dots and washes applied which makes them perfect for this demonstration and before we get to those four totally legit insane life hack techniques that will turn you into another Adam Wilder let me talk about some basic but very important but basic stuff basic stuff number one decide when to apply chipping don't turn your weathering into a mess each technique has its own place in terms of when it should be used filters for example are usually the first technique we use when we're done with the base coat and markings there are two common approaches to chipping right after you're done with your paint job aka before filters washes oils and everything else and second after filters washes and oils and then followed up with dust mud and stuff like that I personally use the latter approach and you'll see that in this video as well but of course there were a few cases when I painted them before every other technique the main difference between those two is that when you apply chips first they get toned down a bit more while if you apply them after washes and oils have more pop so to speak basic tip number two don't use hairspray as a crutch painting chips by hand is a time-consuming process it's also not the easiest technique out there many models therefore use hairspray or chipping fluid technique as a quick solution to get lots of natural looking chips with minimum effort and time the problem is that hairspray chipping if you want really good results is equally if not even more difficult than the traditional brush painted approach things like how many layers of chipping fluid should you apply how far your airbrush should be while airbrushing how thick the paint layer needs to be what thinner to use how long before you can start peeling the paint and many more variables enter the game the most difficult part of hair spray chipping is how unpredictable it can be not to mention if you decide to go this way you can say goodbye to techniques like pre-shading post shading color modulations and it's light distressing or black and white technique and in most cases it's not even that fast I spend more than 30 hours on this bulldozer just to get all the chipping done stuff my ears kept paint brush painted chips are usually done with acrylic brush specific paints in two or three steps first layer of superficial chips second layer of dark steel chips and sometimes third layer of very faint enamel or oil paint rough stones with the first layer you have to choose or mix an appropriate color that's basically a lighter version of the base coat don't use grass green on olive drab or lemon yellow on German dark yellow there are many modulation sets on the market so if you're unsure just get one of them paint the model with the mid-tone or just do a complete color modulation if you want and then use the lightest paint for chipping for darker steel tones is best to use dark gray or grayish Brown colors this also depends on the color of the tank Darkrai chips would probably disappear on the German gray tank so we'd have to more brownish till basic number for that case where it's not visible it will take some time until you get the good grasp of the delicate movements of your hand needed to paint decent chips play it safe and practice on heart to see parts of your model like the lower hull or road wheels which usually get covered with mother dust or in places like under the turret so let's now get to those mind-blowing techniques sponge sponge is a very clever chipping tool and you can get it either from your kitchen or from packaging boxes all you have to do is get a smaller medium sized piece this depends on how large ground you want to cover and make the edges slightly more random by tearing out small chunks you can then use tweezers as a handle for the first layer of chips I chose a rocky sand from Vallejo because these paints are usually very thick a drop or two of tap water is needed to thin them down into a better consistency now we can dip the sponge into the paint and here's an important step you have to remove most of the paint on the piece of paper until it leaves just the trace that looks something like wait for it this now we are ready to chip the model it's best to start chipping around the edges because those are usually the most exposed part that can easily get worn down then you can add some random small flakes across the entire panel sponge creates natural-looking random patterns and you'll quickly learn how to paint them by brush if you give this techniques a few tries it also creates lots of fine chips in very short amount of time here's what will happen if your sponge was overloaded with paint okay that's still not horrible enough yeah this and I've seen a few people doing this so please make sure to unload the paint each time it'll save you a lot of frustration later now you have to thin the paint down a little bit more until you get the consistency like this [Music] now pick the finest brush you have triple zero brushes with longer bristles that can hold more paint are the best for this task something like this triple zero from Vallejo all you need to do now is to connect some of the random flakes I usually start by outlining the edges again it's good to turn the model around to always get the most comfortable painting position this way you'll be more relaxed and precise when you're done outlining you can connect on enlarge some of the random shapes in the center of the panel now the result looks quite refined and it didn't take that long let's now look at another technique number two to take let's say you don't have very good brushes and the best one you have looks like this and let's assume you are not very patient or your hands are very shaky and the best chipping you can achieve looks like this yeah this happens quite a lot and I hope we can agree it doesn't look ideal in that case all you need is a toothpick Vallejo mo aka and lifecolor paints are flexible which makes them very easy to remove with toothpicks or any other sharp instrument this gets easier if your paint job is glossy or semi glossy removing the excess paint like this is technically chipping and that's why it creates nice sharp and uneven shapes yes it will leave quite a messy surface but that's easy to remove a big soft brush is great for removing any paint that's flaking off but it's hard to remove with the toothpick a smaller brush and some water will remove most of the pain residue [Music] it all looks so much better now don't you think it's not excellent but definitely more presentable than before now we'll paint the second layer of steel chips and this step is the same whether you chose the sponge or toothpick technique there's just no way around it you have to do it by brush because you need that extra precision there are get multiple options on the market but for this video I again chose Vallejo paints so I'm gonna mix a dark gray paint using German gray and Dec tan and I'm only using Dec 10 because I don't have white I know don't judge me the consistency should again be something like this and like I said you need as much precision as you can get so I'm gonna use my favorite chipping brush but I'll also unload a small amount of paint each time before I touch the model again it's best to start by outlining the edges of each panel not how I'm often reloading the brush with fresh paint that's when the birch leaves the screen and it's because there's not that much of it in its bristles the point is to fill the inside of the first light layer but to keep a faint outline this way the chipping will look three-dimensional and it will also have the top I talked about in the beginning of this video when you're done outlining the edges it's time to fill some of the random flakes in the center here you don't need to fill all of them but it's good to focus at least on the biggest ones because those would naturally go straight through the paint exposing the metal underneath the dark color also tones the entire effect down so when you look at the panel as a whole the chipping isn't so overwhelming anymore let's try to do the same but with a less quality brush and less skill luckily this step is easier at least in one thing you already have the first layer laid out so you don't need to think about random patterns and where to place each chip all you need to focus on is filling them with the dark grey color just try to stay inside each light-colored chip and you'll be fine any even if you don't and you make some mistakes there is again the toothpick this will obviously pick both layers of paint so use it just to fix your worst mishaps as you can see it's definitely possible to get decent results even if you don't have the experience or patience now there's the third step which again applies to both techniques aka rusts tones I'm not considering this another life hack technique because it's just one of the steps used to get the final result and the process is the same whether you're a beginner or a pro luckily for us there are many enamel rust products on the market so just choose whatever brand you prefer shake the bottle for a while to mix the pigment inside and you're good to go I like to apply rust over most of the dark steel chips and usually over the edges as well because again those are the most exposed parts this step is fairly easy but also requires a lot of patience because you're applying the enamel rust products specifically over each chip one by one the amount of rust must be refined otherwise it will become too overwhelming when you're done cleaning your brush get some clean and amyl thinner and you can start blending the point of the blending process is to partially remove the rust stones from the small chips and to feather the edges over the larger ones again it's important to make the effect refined and restricted so the model want to look like an abandoned vehicle it's basically a sort of filter because it also blends the previous two chipping layers into one natural-looking effect this process is also very easy but again a bit time-consuming and it also requires some patience now with the Russell's done we can see there's still something missing on this panel when compared to this one all those small chips that we created with a sponge can be made in another way which brings me to the next technique number three link put some of that in a more Russ product into a pallet and get a soft flat brush like this one dip it into the paint and using a toothpick you can flick the paint off the brush to create hundreds of fine specks of paint it's again important to unload the brush on a piece of paper until it produces only very small specks try it a few times until you get a good understanding of how this works now we can start to carefully flick the paint on the model the amount of specks also depends on the effect you're after but generally you shouldn't get carried away with it you can refine the effect further by removing in the oversized specks with a brush and enamel thinner now we have lots of dark rusty microchips all around the surface but we can also create light chips with this technique using oil things oils are very thick so it's important to thin them down with enamel thinner then take the same brush as before and get to work [Music] and once again any large specs are easily removed with small amounts of enamel thinner pretty neat huh but if you're still not the biggest fan of any of those six things but you want to show some wear and tear on your models there's one more technique that can help you number you can use a combination of rusty and black brown oil paint or an enamel rust effect and black brown oil paint it doesn't really matter what matters is that you can use these two tones to simulate worn edges start by applying the rust color along the edge when it's dry to the touch carefully blend it until you get a nice smooth transition now take the black brown and paint the inside of the world area and using a completely dry brush blended again leaving the first rusty layer as an outline this technique is a million times easier but it creates very different effect if you're shaking your head let me tell you that I actually used to work with this technique a lot in the past take a look at this this this this this and this as the same technique while it doesn't have the pop and sharp look of traditional chipping it still recreates paint that has been worn away over time and it's also a great option if you just lack the skill and patience to paint thousands of small chips by hand after all that's why I use this approach in the past as well you can obviously mix these techniques with each other and pick ones that you like the most to create interesting effects I highly recommend painting chips by hand because you learn how to work with your brush with extreme precision you'll become more patient and all of that will help you become a better modeler in general I paint chips by hand on 90% of my models but there are also some subjects that need to be chipped using the hair spray technique or with the combination of both but those are so few and far between that I haven't used hair spray or chipping fluid to create actual chipping effect in years now and if you feel pulled off by these results and think there's too much chipping or rust just keep in mind how much of it gets sewn down by earth tones and when you combine all of those techniques the result will always be a model that's at least somehow interesting to look at so I hope you learned something from this video or at least found it interesting to watch and if I actually helped you in some way make sure to help me in return by giving this video a like sharing it with a friend who might find it useful as well and subscribing if you have a deal because I have more content like this coming your way and there's a small bonus I'll try to fix this other pan also before we get to bloopers let me just thank you all for watching and I'll see you mates in the next and now some bloopers techniques that will turn you into another atom while blah blah blah each technique has its own place each technique has its own place in terms of when a first light layer of superficial ship ships play it safe and flatten and practice practice plates say play it safe and sponge is a very clever chipping tool and you can get it either black sponge creates natural-looking sir hmm sponge creates natural look sponge sponge creates natural yeah it's good to churn or it's good blips it's good to turn it's good to turn it's good this will obviously affect both layer post post layers as you can see it's definitely possible to get decent result decent results now there's the third step third step third step third step deema the amount of rust must be refined otherwise Wiles the amount of rust must be very refined at Wells Wiles plows

Channel: Night Shift

Views: 2,202,793

Keywords: scale model, tank, plastic model, model kit, tank model, tutorial, how to, model building, martin kovac, night shift, scale model techniques, scale model tips, scale model detail, art, tamiya, craft, modelism, modellismo, miniatura, modellbau, chipping, hairspray technique, oil paints, speckling, heavy chipping, rust, enamel weathering, sponge chipping, beginner tips

Id: ku4comhKHJM

Length: 19min 41sec (1181 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 21 2019