3D Printed HUGE Brushless Motor | I've made Cristoph Laimer's motor

this is the 3d printed huge brushless motor with haulback array configuration this is actually a design from another youtuber called Christophe lamer and he has a lot of other designs if you want this design or many others check the link for his website and YouTube channel below this video and I also recommend you to subscribe because he is a great designer anyway what I will do in this video is just to mount this design I will show you the process that I have to follow in order to make it work and I will use this design to explain how brushless motor works but in a future video the configurations for the wiring that we have and what is the Hapuku reconfiguration thanks to Christoph lamer for this awesome design so go and see his channel for more explanations tests calibrations and much more this will be my own experience mounting this 3d printed brushless motor so I will hope that you learn something new just as I did while making this video by the way I'm planning to make my own design in the future so stay tuned for that and also the next to the printed plane design is almost complete but lately I don't have enough time to finish these projects but stay tuned so let's see how to print this the parts that we need to build it such as the magnets the wire the bearings and so on see how to mount it and make some tests and there's something on the way another huge tank a twist of labour for designing this motor make sure you subscribe and activate the notification bell thanks to all my patrons for supporting my work so let's get started [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] hey guys before we start let me talk about the sponsor of this video if you need electronic components you must go to LCSC they have more than 200,000 components of all kind they have basic resistors capacitors of course and also basic icees microcontrollers power management and much more and as you can see on their website they can ship worldwide so don't worry about that and it's even more the price for the component will get lower and lower depending on the amount that you want to buy so for example this stm32 is only 90 cents but if you order 30 for example the price would be 65 cents and another cool thing about LCSC is that is directly connected with easy EDA so you can add to the cart your components what is adding your PCB so go to LCSC place the order and receive the components very fast what's up my friends welcome back we start with all the parts that we need to mount this motor you have a full part list on crystal blamer channel and links below for that we start with the printed parts so to make see a website and download apart we have two main files for the motor outer part these parts have a tread so they can be screwed together so that's a pretty nice design they also have some holes so the air can flow and cool down the winding inside because under much power this will get quite hot the small part has a space for a 62 millimeter bearing and the big outer part has spaces for magnets inside but more about this later the next two files are the core part core part amb we will join these together and create the core of the motor is recommended to print this with magnetic pla material but in my case i didn't had that kind of filament so I've made it with PPG that will lower the efficiency but anyway the next parts are to state amounts when these parts are joined together it will create the mount for the core and keep it well in place on one side of this we have a space for small 60 millimetres bearing but on the other side we have once again a small bearing but also the big bearing of 62 millimetres in this way the motor is held in place on both sides with a big motor like this one the back bearing is necessary otherwise it will vibrate a lot and probably not even work okay the final part is the front color and on this part we could mount a propeller or anything else this part has a space for a metal color with a screw and that would be fixed on a spot rod but we will see that later so that's it for the 3d printed parts okay now next we have the magnets for the whole back array we need 18 big magnets of 9 by 39 millimeters but we also need 36 smaller magnets and of course to create the coils we will need some enameled copper wire in this case this is a 0.45 millimeter diameter and we need around 30 meters of wire for each phase so a total of more than 90 meters of wire as we have seen before we need two small bearings of 60 millimeters and one big bearing of 62 millimetres to make the shaft of the motor we will use an 8 millimeter diameter smooth rod I have mine from an ultra printer that I don't use anymore the shaft colors are 13 millimeter outer diameter an 8 millimeter inner diameter and they have a small screw so they can be fixed in place on the smooth rods to fix in place the motor we need four pieces of m4 threaded rods around 85 millimeters long and some end for nuts as well we will also use some shrinking tubes bullet connectors and some more insulated wires so have those as well ok so in my case all the parts are printed bdg so they could handle more stress but the core should be printed using magnetic PLA but I don't have that check the full guide on Krista flamer website links are below okay so first we mount the motor and then we'll give it a test so we start by preparing all the plastic parts you might need to use a drill press to adjust the hole diameter in my case the shaft diameter has the perfect size so no adjustment is needed but the holes for the 4 millimeter threaded rods are very small so I had to enlarge them a bit ok so now if it a small bearing on the top and bottom parts of the core support then I cut four pieces of 85 millimeter long of the m4 threaded rod place an m4 nut at the end and pass that to the small core support and also make sure that the nuts are flat and not getting out of the 3d printed part I place a few layers of captain tape on the big core support so the big bearing will fit perfectly only to this tab if needed ok now we need to prepare the wire for each coil the wire must be around 5 meter long but not just depth each wire will have 6 turns so a total of around 30 meters so first we tie one end of the copper wire then we give it 6 turns of 5 meters when we have that we cut the wire and wind it a little bit so it won't be too loose then I've printed these plastic spools so use one of these arrow to prepare wire on it you will have to do these three times so you'll end up with three plastic spools each with 5 meters of wire of 6 turns okay now get the core parts and the stator support join the core parts together and align the coils and then place the stator support in between check the alignment and when everything is okay we place some painters tape on the core so it will stay fixed in place because next we will wind the copper wire now take out the stator support and you will be left on with the core on Krista flame our website you'll have more indications about winding so let's start and have in mind that this is the tricky part of the project we start with phase a remove just a small portion of the painters tape so we could begin take one spool of wire and place the start of that wire to one of the slots on the core and fix it in place for now with some tape the toothed head of the plastic core will give you the direction of winding as you can see so now we skip two slots and went back the wire we do this four times for each coil make sure that the wire is tight and that it won't get out of the slots you can push it a bit but only using plastic or wood tools otherwise you might damage the wire and remove the insulation so the first coil of phase a is complete place the spool of wire inside of the core so we could keep going with the next phase now take the other spool of wire we jump two slots to the left and start winding in the same way the first coil of the phase B once again we make four loops and this coil is ready to now place the spool of wire of phase B inside of the core as well now we get the spool for phase C and we do the same but with only one slot offset now we have the first calls for each of the phase a B and C but there are still eight more calls to go for each phase because the motor has a total of 27 coils so that's why this is the tricky part there is a lot of work and the calls must be well winded otherwise the wire could get loose touch the outer part of the walls get damaged and so on the last coil is a bit tricky to finish that's because the other calls are on top of the slots so you'll have to wind the last wire beneath the other coils as you can see there is a small hole so you'll have to pass the wire beneath that and finish the last coil this process will secure the other wires in place okay guys so now we have the core all winded and six wires are getting out two of these wires are the inputs and three are the outputs now you have to place the stator support inside but not fully inside yet as you can see it has some holes so we need to pass those six wires through here three wires for the input and three for the output when the wires are in place you can fully insert the stator then flip the core and add the other side of the stator also add the m4 screws in place now keep the wires long enough till the end but for now you can clean the output wires and remove the insulation coat then we join the cables together with some solder since this will be a white configuration add the shrinking tube on top for insulation so now the core is ready now we put a core aside and now have to place the magnets please watch once again Christoph's video for more information about weight distribution even these magnets look the same the weight and the force is not the same you might want to measure the magnets for force and weight before placing them inside because imagine that all the heavy magnets are on one side that will destabilize the motor a lot and it will vibrate or maybe even break so mark the south and the north polarity of each magnet when placing them inside they must be alternating so one magnet with south the other with north and so on when all the big magnets are inside we have to place the small ones the magnetic force of the big ones will help us to do that if the polarity of the small magnets is not that good one then the magnet will stay in so take it out flip it and it will step right in the slot now all magnets are in placed in the hub at configuration this array configuration will create a strong magnetic side and a weak one the magnetic field will extend more due to this configuration and will have the strong side on the interior of the motor okay guys now both the magnets and the core are ready we place a metal color on the shaft and then insert that into the plastic color now fix the shaft on the outer part of the motor remember to tie the screw the metal color that is fixed onto the shaft so now we have to join the rotor with the stator so place the stator with the core inside of the rotor onto the metal shaft now make sure that you have the bearings in place then you have to add the final part of the rotor with the big bearing now you can close the case and the motor should be ready but the final part is to add another metal color on the other side so it won't get out so try the screw of that as well now rotate the motor and make sure that the wires inside are not touching the plastic parts finally we have to add some shrinking tubes to insulate the tree wires once we do that we add some bullet connectors to the triple phase input and the motor now is complete and it looks great doesn't it now we have to test if this works well or not but actually I already know that it does from crystal videos so I connect a basic ESC and the input of the three phases a B and C I will use a forest battery now slowly increase the speed and there you go okay so at first the motor didn't start by itself it has low torque because the core is not ferromagnetic he's just plastic but once I have the motor with my hand it started spinning with no problem also after I added some silicon oil to each bearing the rotation was way smoother and the motor was able to start by its own it can reach very high speeds but I never reached the maximum speed because I was afraid of breaking apart falling from the table or any other dangerous test so for that I will need a proper testing case that will be strong enough but that in a future video so the motor works and it seems to be quite powerful actually on his website this motor is rated to 600 Watts up to 30 volts 255 rpms 80% efficiency which for a 3d printed motor this is awesome and a lot more I bet the efficiency of my motor it's a lot lower because my core is that magnetic PLA and the rest of the parts are not that carefully done as in his videos in a future video I'll make some tests with this motor and by that we will learn even more about brushless motors so stay tuned for that we will see how to measure power the speed and auto specification of these kind of motors if you liked this video give it a like also consider subscribing and activate the notification bell if you would like to support my work check my patreon page so thanks again and see you later guys [Music]

Channel: Electronoobs

Views: 592,144

Rating: 4.8847041 out of 5

Keywords: 3D, printed, 3D printed, brushless, motor, hige, halback, delta, configuration, magnets, homemade, DIY, power, RC, tutorial, neodymium, plane, propeller, how to make

Id: 0j2epmD4MYs

Length: 16min 3sec (963 seconds)

Published: Sun Feb 16 2020

Reddit Comments

[u/RE_Combat_Robotics]

It may be easier and would certainly net a whole lot more power to adapt an existing mag-steel armature outrunner to be a hub motor rather than 3d printing one. I use a 50mm skateboard outrunner as a hub motor in my 15 pounder, with a custom made "sleeve" that adapts it to fit how I need it to.

[u/Coboxite]

Introduction to Hub Motors.

[u/reduction-io]

I've found Brushless Motors: Magnetic Design, Performance, and Control to be a good starting point for understanding brushless motor design. It's good for an overview of the important topics and has an excellent annotated bibliography to get references for digging deeper. If you want to understand motor design and do experiments, 3d-printed motors are great, but the magnetic properties of the material make it pretty unsuitable for really pushing performance. For reference, these are about the same size as the motors in that video and can run at up to 45000 W and the one in the video is 600 W.

[u/caseytherobot]

https://www.amazon.com/Design-Brushless-Permanent-Magnet-Machines-Hendershot/dp/0984068708/ref=pd_sbs_1?pd_rd_w=SRywj&pf_rd_p=651d64d1-3c73-45b6-ae09-e545600e3a22&pf_rd_r=XPHJW0KSW9V8DASECAY5&pd_rd_r=25a00171-b903-41a3-88af-90dffcc4b977&pd_rd_wg=HoSPm&pd_rd_i=0984068708&psc=1

[u/InquisitorWarth]

All a hubmotor is is an outrunner with a wheel or other mechanical part attached around the can (as opposed to the motor shaft). The fingertech clamp-on vertical drum module is effectively a hubmotor that doesn't require you to modify your weapon motor.

Don't bother trying to modify or custom build motors for now, it's a lot of effort for very little reward.

[u/SunnyRobotics]

Is this for a combat robot weapon or a scooter you ride on? If a scooter see https://www.etotheipiplusone.net/?p=842

if for combat robot weapon see the following below

https://facebook.com/TeamBonX/

https://facebook.com/metalskullrobotics/

https://facebook.com/profile.php?id=1611769145583668

https://facebook.com/profile.php?id=1687137118236756

https://facebook.com/SunnyRobotics/

https://www.etotheipiplusone.net

https://thevariableconstant.blogspot.com

https://www.facebook.com/OwObotics

https://blog.aaronbot3000.com/

https://bldjln.blogspot.com/

https://facebook.com/canadiancarnage

https://www.andrew.systems/

All these teams do not make their own motors. They use existing motors and modify them.

[u/malfunctionguy]

Actually making new motor will take time,more money and harder than just buying motors,and you are not sure that will work better,or even that works.