3018 CNC Chess Set how its done

[Music] thank you [Music] [Music] foreign 's Paul this is the chess set that I made people of us so many questions how do you do that how do you turn this block of wood into a 3D model stick around and I'll show you how I did the things we're going to need for this chess set are some STL files and these are obtained and you can download them from Cults 3D and I shall leave the descriptions in the The Links below we're also going to need a CNC machine all of these models here and the chess set were carved on a 3018 machine this is because any machine is capable of doing this the tallest model is 100 millimeters tall and I'm carving on a 41 millimeter square wood and carving halfway through so the actual carving is quite small we're also going to need calf coat and I use Carveco maker which is open on the PC and also we're going to need a ugs sender which sends the G-Code to the machine I'd like to thank a couple of people before I actually get started these are people that gave me the inspiration for the chess set firstly Jason Woodruff from Timber Falls for his excellent tutorial video and if you have a 3080 machine then head over to James Dean designs and watch James Prestage for his excellent tutorials on how to set up your machine and make sure it's at its Optimum performance level and finally Leighton from Carveco for all their excellent tutorials on the software you're going to need so let's get on with it now we've downloaded the STL files and extracted them to a folder on your PC computer it's time to open Carveco maker so we need to go to new model and up comes the new model Dimensions box in here we need to put the width of our material which is 41 millimeters and the height is 175 millimeters we can leave the resolution where it is the higher the better and the units are in millimeters I apologize to those that don't use millimeters but in England we have an odd system of measurements we buy our Petrol in liters and travel in miles per hour we can buy a pint of beer but a liter of milk and I'm five foot six and a half inches tall we leave the job origin in the bottom corner for the moment as I'm going to move that very shortly because our Timber the bottom of the Timber isn't always exactly correct and we need to have the job origin in the center of the material but not in the center of the the model space so I'll explain that in just a moment so we'll just click OK for now now this brings up our model space showing the job origin in the bottom left corner I'm now going to move that job origin and put it in the center for this I need to go to the 2D View and turn on the rulers so we turn the rulers on now I just want to create a crosshairs exactly where I want my cursor to be in a moment so we just go slightly above the the measurements at the top left click and hold and drag the line down and you'll see a double-headed Arrow which if you right click on this we can now edit the guideline and in the select guideline position I want to position this 60 millimeters from the bottom of my Timber my my work so enter 60 say apply and then close this guideline box go across to the left and drag a vertical guideline across somewhere in the middle and while the double-ended arrow is showing right click edit guideline and this time it wants to be exactly half the width of the the material that we're using my Timber happens to be 41 millimeters so this needs to be 20.5 millimeters now we say apply and then we can close the guideline box if we know go up to model and we need to set the position now so we just move the set position box slightly over to one side so we can see and I'm going to choose this with the cursor I don't know an easier way to do this but I'm sure the experts at Carveco will tell me later I need to set these exactly on these crosshairs at 20.5 and 60 from the bottom so I need to zoom in a little bit so if I zoom in and get put the tip of the cursor bang in the center so I've got 20.5 and the Y is is 60.013 I just need to go up slightly so I'll zoom in a bit more and get try and get that pixel there oh it's a little bit tricky but uh I'll zoom in a fraction more and see it becomes a little bit easier the the more you zoom in so that's close enough for me 20.5 on the x-axis and a 59.99 on the Y now if we just left click nothing appears to happen but if we go across to the uh the box that we've moved and click ok now your seats changing slightly this time we need to go back into 3D View and you'll see now that the job origin is in the center of the material and 60 millimeters up from the bottom now I don't like to have the guidelines and rulers on so I'm going to delete the guidelines let's see on the vertical one if you wait till the double A headed arrow is across the the work and then right click you can delete the guidelines go back to view and turn the rulers off so now we have the job origin and our workspace set now it's time to import our 3D so we go to relief and click import and import 3D model navigate to where you saved your STL files I'm going to select the bishop for this exercise so click and open this now brings the stl model into the window and we need to position it on top of our workspace so first of all we need to rotate the model in the X Direction to light down horizontally so we do that by rotating it 90 degrees say apply and it's important at this point to mention do not close this page 3D model window until we've completed all four sides of the model so now we need to Center the model puts this model the center of the model in the center of our workspace and we'll just have a quick look by using the The View button and we can see it's in the center now we need to resize our model so I'm going to resize the Z height first and I want it in a whole number which makes it easily divisible by two because we're going to drop the model halfway through our workspace so we click apply and we can now zero out this y and the Z and we need to move the model further towards the top and to do that we need to enter the figure in the Y position and just have a little bit of a guess and try this so let's move it up 40 millimeters click apply and it's moved it up a little bit so we need to keep going until we're almost at the top and you'll see the reason for this in a moment so we click try 58 and apply it could still do it a bit more so let's try 60. and have a look we could still do it a bit more because the cutter is going to be cutting around the perimeter of our workspace and we don't want to leave any excess material to be cut so there we are so we've got the model in position now and now we need to create a vector around our model which is where the tools we'll be doing the cutting so on the left hand side we've got our Vector shaped so select the create rectangle come across to the top left hand corner and drag out a box around our model so there we are and we now need to tell it to create so just move this back slightly to reveal the create button and we click create we now need to resize the vector to become just inside our model space and to do that we can use the transform button and we'll zoom in a little bit to see what we're doing and the vector needs to be inside the edge of our workspace but not too much otherwise the cutter will leave a little upstanding Edge and you might see that later on in the simulation we'll also move this side just across just a little bit and then we go to the front view keep returning to the front view just to check that everything's okay and the bottom of the vector needs to be just above the base of the Str model so that the base remains attached to this bottom section which will become a sort of clamping area and job origin is now set in this position here so once we're happy with that we can just come out of this by going to the select tool and the front view again now it's time to maneuver the model down through our workspace and the reason I created a whole number Iis that Carveco takes it to uh the sort of thousands of a millimeter so but this will be 35 millimeters we need to sync the model down half of that number and it's a minus figure so it'll be minus 17.5 millimeters if we click apply the model is now dropped down by 17 and a half millimeters and again you can have a look at the model you can rotate it around you'll see that the back of the bishop is now on the back of our workspace and again I like to go back to the front view which is easier to see what we're doing now it's time we can paste the model down we now go to file and save as and you can save it onto your computer perhaps in the folder where the bishop was and then come back to this view here we now need to undo the paste which brings the model then back to where it was before and we need to rotate the model now to do the back side so this time we need to select the y-axis and type in 180 which will turn the model over completely so now we have the reverse side of the Bishop STL and again we need to click on paste and again file and save as this time you call it the back or whatever you like to call it as long as you know what it is and click save as and save it in the fold of your choice again we need to come back into here make sure you remember to do the undo button otherwise you'll have a funny looking model now it's time to do the sides but this time we only want to rotate it by 90 degrees so we go to the Y axis this time and then click on the Y and rotate it by 90 degrees click apply so we don't have the right hand elevation of the bishop at this time we need to click paste file and save as this time so it has the right hand side and we also don't forget to click the undo button now this time we want the opposite side to this so again using the y-axis we will turn it through 180 degrees this time and click apply I did forget to press the paste button before we save it so don't forget to do that so now it's time to create our tool paths for this we need to go to file open and I've chosen the bishop front so we need to highlight the vector box that we created around our relief and then go to talk paths click on toolpaths come down to 3D toolpaths and the area of the machine relief window comes up we don't need to select the whole relief we need to see select the selective vectors box and make sure that the inside Vector box is selected now it's time to choose the bits you're going to use so the finishing options click on select and if you've been to the Harry Potter School of Wizardry all this will make a lot of sense to you if not just use kafko's recommended default settings so a finishing tool I'm going to use the ball nose 0.75 millimeter and say select do the same again for the roughing option select the tool I'm going to use as three mil End Mill leave the defaults as they are if you're in any doubt whatsoever always there on the side of caution and reduce these figures the step over and the step down and the feed rate Etc just slow it right down so as you you can see what's happening we select that and we come down to the safe Z height so we need to have a look I select three millimeters so that the the bit is always just slightly above the the work and it doesn't tell it um I'm going to just set this so we need to go to setup the origin is the top of the the workspace the the block that we're using the model is 17.49 and the material thickness it's 41 millimeters um block of wood so it's going to carve that much plus the top offset so the bottom offset will be halfway through exactly of the material which is where it will carved down to so we say okay I know it's time to calculate Carveco will do its wonderful stuff now by creating the tool paths and we will later sent to the machine so that's now done we can close the machine relief and if we expand the tree we can see that we've now got an End Mill Roofing file and a ball nose file and select the End Mill and right click and come down to the simulation control bar and press start and if we rotate them in the material round you can see that the the simulation of the cutter is cutting through the material and this is the tool path that it will take so that one seems okay so we'll stop this I'm going to simulation right click and delete that one and have a look at the finishing one so again highlight right click simulation control bar and again start the simulation and we can now see that the cutter is going through a piece of wood and if we speed this up a little bit by the double install button there we can see that the cutter is whizzing along come back to the start button on your seat this is what it's carving out to exactly halfway through our material so we'll stop that now it's a simulation right click and delete so now it's time to save our files so we come down to the save tool paths icon we click that and make sure that both of the files are on the right hand side so if you need to move this one across use the arrows to move it across so we now have the finish and the roofing both on these sides also the save options um we're using two different tool paths so we'll save it to separate files and I always like to append the tool path details to the file name because it's easier to select them earlier on so you now need to save it where wherever your you've got your files folder and give it a name this one is the bishop front so we will just edit this slightly and type in the word front and your machine file format I use gerbil but whatever your machine file format is whether it be tab NCC or whatever else there's a whole multitude to choose from here so I choose the uh the gerbil so I now just click save and of course we need to do this another three times on the other three sides of a STL model which will be in the back the right hand and the left hand side before we can move on to the ugs sender open ugs and make the necessary changes to gerbil to suit your machine if you're not quite sure how to do that then uh have a have another look at James Dean designs he does some what's the word uh excellent tutorials um on how to set your machine up to the durable and mark up your piece of wood to set out the uh the job origin and then over to the machine So this is the 3018 machine that I carved the chest set on uh and I know what you're going to say immediately my 3018 doesn't look like this well I extended it after I cut the the chess set out but it's the same principle on all machines and just make sure that you clamp the material down and that it's parallel to the y-axis so this is my setup on the the other machine but it works perfectly well on a 3018 machine and it's so important to keep the material clamped down tight to the board and also perfectly in line with the y-axis which is why I've got a little clamp just there which is pushing the material up against the stop that I've got fixed down onto the spoil board I've got little inserts under the uh the spoil board and on this machine I've actually got a double thickness spoil board but as long as you make sure that you get this material clamped down perfectly well and that the the spindle is free I've also taken off a little bit of the edge of the support board there just to allow the tool to have a little bit of clearance okay so we'll carry on after a few trial and errors um I found the best way to do it would be to rough out both sides first and then run the Finish bit only on the front and the back and you don't need to rough out the front and the back because the material has already been moved so after a few trial Cuts you're ready to carve out your chest set thanks for watching bye

Channel: Paul Kelsall

Views: 32,081

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Id: eqRp1G5v5NY

Length: 26min 13sec (1573 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 07 2023