3 MICHELIN STAR Restaurant Review with Romanée-Conti by the Glass (€3000/Bottle)

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The year is 1900. Japanese businessman and pharmacist Arinobu Fukuhara is in New York, looking for ideas he can bring back to Japan. What he finds is groundbreaking. It’s ice cream soda. The refreshing treat that combined the creamy goodness of ice cream with the fizziness of soda. In early 20th century, they were all the rage in the US and shops were popping up from coast to coast. Especially in pharmacies. When Fukuhara sees this, he gets goosebumps. He buys a soda fountain, takes it back to Japan, and starts serving ice cream sodas at his pharmacy in Ginza. Word gets out, and people come from all over the country to try this amazing new treat. It’s a home run. And it gives Fukuhara an idea. To focus on a second area of business. Besides health and beauty, the company will branch into food and drink. The result is a success story that would later become a household name around the world. What company is that? You guys might not know it, but ask any woman and I bet she does. It’s the beauty brand Shisheido. By the late 60’s, the company’s food and drink division Shiseido Parlour had branched into fine dining. And in 1973, they open a restaurant that helps introduce the country to French cuisine. And who would have guessed? It’s our restaurant for today. L’Osier. We are here in the Tokyo neighborhood of Ginza. Known as the upmarket shopping, dining and entertainment district, Ginza is crawling with boutiques, art galleries and night clubs. One square meter of land in Ginza is worth over four point five million yen, or twenty seven thousand Euro, making it some of the most expensive real estate in the country. We find our way over to the famous Shiseido building. The site where Fukuhara started his pharmacy and his brand. A hundred years later it would become the 5th largest in the world and Japan’s biggest cosmetics company. It’s nice to have big landmark that’s easy to find, because our restaurant is right next door. Because it all started with a drink, the ice cream soda, it’s only fitting that today, we focus this episode on drinks too. The entrance is striking, and the interior is gorgeous. It’s big and bright with flourishes of Art Deco. The table setting showcases two of France’s greatest contributions to fine dining. The custom plates are handmade by Limoges porcelain maker Haviland. And the cutlery is Puiforcat, the same silversmith they use for official state dinners in Paris. But what really impresses me is the wine menu. They have a ton of wine, and they are not messing around. A lot of these labels are difficult to find. What’s even better is that many are available by the glass. I’m excited to try some of the world’s top selections. And it gives me an idea. To have a mini wine tasting. Where I can put two wines head-to-head. And taste the differences. Starting with champagne, I choose a glass of Charles Heidseck Blanc des Millenaires 2007 and one of Jacques Sellosse Initial. Both are 100% chardonnay from the Cote de Blancs region. This Charles Heidseck is a vintage champagne. That means the grapes are all from the same year of 2007. The Jacques Sellose is not a vintage champagne. It’s a combination of three special vintages. Did you know that most champagnes are like discreet ladies that will not tell you how old they are? That’s because they can’t. Most champagnes are a blend of wines from different years. In comparison I’d say the 2007 Blanc de  Millenaires is sharper and more dynamic. I would say the Jacques Selosse Initial is a  bit like a Burgundy wine, but with bubbles. It’s hard to compare because both champagne houses  have a different approach and unique process.  For different reasons, I love both of them. A traditional French bread service is next, followed by our first dish. A tribute to the humble corn. Served here in three preparations. A cold veloute soup, an even colder ice cream and a freshly grillled popcorn. It’s perfect amounts of creaminess and freshness. I really enjoyed and I found it  playful the sweetness of this dish. This is what I expect from a 3 Michelin star French restaurant. An exciting and memorable first course. It’s part of a six course lunch menu which goes for 200 euro. Meet the sommelier, Ryoga Nakamura. His understanding of wine is exceptional for such a young guy. Everything makes sense when I learn he has a Masters in Wine Making and he placed third at the All-Japan  Best Sommelier Competition last summer. I love to see drive and dedication so early in one’s career. Time for some new wines. With so many all-stars by the glass, I feel like a kid at Christmas. It’s a tough one, but in the end I choose two heavyweights. On the right, from Puligny-Montrachet It's Domaine Leflaive with a 2018 Premier Cru On the left, a one year  younger is Domaine Faivelley From Batard Montrachet with a 2017 Grand Cru. When I could finally afford better Burgundy wines, I often chose Bâtard-Montrachet. It’s an appellation in Burgundy that produces what many consider to be one of the greatest dry white wine in the world. The names in the area are said to come from medieval folklore. Legend has it that in the Middle Ages, Lord Montrachet   owned some of the best vineyards in Burgundy. But we was not good a staying faithful to his wife. He had an affair that bore a son, but kept it quiet. Not long after, his first-born son was killed in battle. Without an heir, the Lord  accepted his illegitimate  son into the family, and brought him to live at the Montrachet estate. When the Duke of Burgundy heard about this, he named Lord Montrachet’s vineyards  so this story would not be forgotten. And that’s why today the Montrachet appellation has the following names: Le Montrachet after the Lord himself, Chevalier Montrachet after the son killed in battle, and Le Batard Montrachet, after the bastard son. In front of me are wines from Puligny Montrachet and Batard Montrachet. I prefer the Batard Montrachet But at the end of the day, both of these wines were fantastic and went nicely with the next course. It’s blue lobster with stewed chanterelles, with stuffed zucchini flowers and  a fresh tomato and basil sauce. There is no compromise regarding  the quality of the ingredients. For the lunch menu they bigger portions but fewer courses than for dinner. Big portions are harder present nicely and find the balance between beauty and function. The flavors are concentrated and super dynamic but also nicely balanced. For a moment, I even forgot that I am in Japan; I could have just as well been in France. We have tasted champagne and chardonnay, now it’s time for some reds. For that, we are going to the top. Just mentioning the name gets me excited. Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, or DRC. They produce some of the  world's most expensive wines. The history goes back to the 13th century. And today, they are easily  one of the most prestigious and celebrated wine producers in the world. Heres why. The production of wine at DRC is very limited, which is one reason for its high prices. Everything is centered around one vineyard where the company gets its name. La Rominee Conti. This pinot noir grand cru is only 1.8 hectares in size but it’s DRC’s most important asset. On average, grapes grown here go on to become some of the most expensive wines in the world. DRC has 7 other vineyards in the area that also make outstanding wine. All of them are grand cru. And that’s a claim that no other wine maker in Burgundy can make. Let’s take a closer look at these two wines from DRC. Both are pinot noir, aged in oak, from 2013. They both come from vineyards alongside La Romanee-Conti, so they are ultra premium. One from Richebourg the other Romanee Saint Vivant. The prices are in the same ballpark. You can pick these up between 3 and 4 thousand Euro per bottle. Here at L’Osier the price  per half a glass is around  300 euro each. The fact that they have this by the glass is unbelievable. I’ve never seen a restaurant that serves Romanée-Conti by the glass, let alone two from the same vintage. So this was an incredible experience for me. There was a quite a difference between the two wines. The Richebourg is a more full-bodied and muscular style of pinot noir while the Romanee Saint Vivant  is very light and aromatic. it was wonderful to feel how the  wine blossomed and opened up. It was almost magical. I had to be careful to save some for our main course. Which is deer. We have a roasted fillet and a thigh treated like a blood sausage. With blackberry chutney and a thin leaf of tangy red beetroot. Also a carrot rosette with black fruffle, bay verbena mousseline and wild pepper sauce. Words can not do this dish justice. To say Absolutely incredible only scratches the surface. Next we go on a journey through the land of cheese. With a huge selection of French imports. This is not a standard part of the menu and has an extra cost of 40 euro. And then, who stops by, but head chef Olivier Chiagnon. Who is celebrating his 10th anniversary here at L’Osier. He comes from renowned restaurants such as Taillevent and Pierre Gagnaire in Paris. He came here in 2013 and in two years earned two Michelin stars, with the third in 2019. He was also Gault et Millau Chef of the Year in 2017. Dessert is next. First is apricot and lavender. and the second is all peaches From the foam to the ice cream The sommelier is not finished with me. He surprises me with a glass of thirty year old Chateau d’Yquem on the house. It’s a such a nice way to enjoy the last few bites from the sweets trolley. The total for today is just  over 1400 Euro for two. What can I say about L’Osier. It’s an amazing French  restaurant outside of France, with best in class quality ingredients. A culinary artist in the kitchen. An elegant and educated service team. and a sommelier who hit a  grand slam with a wine tasting that I am not gonna forget any time soon. Sometimes less is more. In this case, each and every course was memorable. All thanks to the artist in the kitchen. Congratulations on 50 years in business. If Shiseido founder Arinobu Fukuhara were here today, I’m sure he would have a huge smile. Knowing that none of this might have happened, If it wasn’t for a trip to New York and an ice cream soda. and that does it for this episode. Thank you for joining me. If you like this episode, hit subscribe. See you next time.
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Channel: Alexander The Guest
Views: 151,977
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: 3 michelin star, michelin star, restaurant, french restaurant, french cuisine, japan, tokyo restaurant, tokyo michelin, three michelin star, l'osier, tokyo, losier, Olivier Chiagnon, chef, review, fine dining, romanée-conti, richebourg, wine, wine tasting, wine pairing, charles heidsieck, champagne, batard montrachet, grand cru, premier cru, jacques selosse, puligny montrachet, burgundy, romanee saint vivant, chateau d'yquem, michelin star chef, best restaurant in tokyo
Id: l7PjSXobbAU
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 11min 24sec (684 seconds)
Published: Wed May 08 2024
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