$250 for This Quality of Printing Is Unreal! - the Elegoo Mars Delivers, so Let's Review It.

okay here's the situation you've got an FTM style 3d printer similar to this heavily modified under three probe that I have sitting here and you've been using it to great success to make all kinds of things but the resolution bothers you it probably came with a point four millimeter nozzle I guess you could put a smaller nozzle on there but then you got a modified firmware and it's always gonna have those later lines no matter what you do and they're weaker on the z direction so they're easy to break and so you know FTM 3d printing has its limitations and you've been seeing all these videos and all the posts and online forums about resin based 3d printing and you know it's an entirely different paradigm from the you know bead of molten plastic which is FDM style printing so I have used resin based printers before I used two different form labs machines in the course of my professional activities that form labs machines perfect as they are cost five thousand dollars so they are not really within the grasp and the reach of just the regular DIY are like you and me so lately we've got a bunch of inexpensive resin based printers that are hitting the market and this is one of them it looks like it's gonna be a good one this is the le goo Mars 3d printer and I'm assuming the goo this reference to the the photopolymer UV curing resin here so very gooey stuff not nearly as clean as the FDM you know thermo plastic material that gets squeezed out of there so this is gonna be quite an involved process but the benefit to this style of printer is it comes fully assembled so there's no kit involved here I'm just gonna pull the unit out of this box and start printing with it but because I have never done this before I know like I said I used those for labs machines but they were already set up all I had to do was kind of get into the form lapse slicer I think it still called a slicer just to get into their slicer program and send the prints so this is going to be my first time setting up and using one of these home-based printers for you know UV curing resin so come along with me on the journey and you can learn basically what it'll be like for you if you get one of these and I should be able to answer the question that you all have and that is is resin printing better than FDM printing so let's figure that out roll the intro and we'll get into it [Music] I've got to give the usual boring disclaimer that of course this printer was given to me for free by Ella GU who want me to show you their printer I didn't buy the printer that doesn't mean that I have to say nice things about it so I'm gonna tell you exactly what I think of this printer as I experienced it well I mean I won't have to tell you you guys are gonna be coming along with me on the journey while I figure this thing out first of all it seems the package is pretty good there we go okay so there's that and yeah like I said coming out an instruction manual and then the entire printer is just one solid unit here you can see it in the box okay hopefully there wasn't anything else in that box no interesting no this acrylic is tinted orange for a reason and that is to block the ultraviolet laser from hitting your eyes so it's a safety mechanism you can still look in and see the the print happening but that way you know we get to keep our vision I like my vision I don't want to lose it so well part of the design of course not invented by Ella GU or anything like that probably the usual case here where almost all this is if not a direct knock often a dark close to a knockoff of a Western design and so far this looks really clean we've got a single z axis that holds the platinum and the platen here will sit down there against the the base of the this is the pool where the holds all of the resonance of the platen will sit right up against the glass at first and then the platen lifts a little bit next layer next layer next layer and that's it's a pretty simple process it's not nearly as many moving components as you have in a FDM style porter with all the you know XY and Z all having to move also needing extruder so none of those are needed and instead all that complication is replaced by the but the process of using curing or resin well that's interesting quick get all the plastic off it there okay okay it's kind of stuck the screen was screwed with that film protection there so it's stuck in the camp yeah that's uh a nice clean get it there and there's the lid put the seam towards the back and that's gonna be my printer how clean is that really cool so also sent to me by Ella goo is this photo polymer resin this is green kind of the design prototype test color these days and yeah so that is photo polymer resin storage conditioned to avoid direct sunlight keep indoors and sealed so yeah I will probably keep it in this box because it does cure with ultraviolet and my studio lights probably have a bit of ultraviolet as well as you know outdoor sunshine so best to keep this thing in the dark even though it also is in a dark container but let's look at what's in the box here of course we have a power plug there's the power supply again look at that little dinky power supply these don't think nearly the not in the early the power Hawk FDM printers are because there's hardly anything moving you think I mean I don't know how the guts of this thing work maybe a little thing in a bar in fact you know what I'm gonna take this thing apart and look at it with all of you to figure out how it works but some of these have what's called a men's unit MEMS so it's basically they shine a laser on a mirror and the mirror is just constantly moving in all the directions in it it can move the laser very quickly which allows you to get ten speeds and of course faster speeds are better got a USB Drive there in the case we got some gloves I also have the gloves these are like your Subway sandwich making gloves I guess these came with the resin so lots of ways to keep the resin off your hands I might put a drop top down on this table although I don't think I'm gonna beat that messy but yeah you definitely want to keep the resin off of things and look at this how cool is this you guys we've got filter cones paper filter codes so it's gonna pull one of these out of here it kind of stuck together come on oh there we go so you can see this little filter right there at the base of the cone and so we'll be able to filter our resin through as we're putting it into the cup there we gotta get a nice clean I don't know what you call it I should look up the terminology here but that the reservoir you got to get a nice clean reservoir we've got some masks because this stuff is stinky and finally we've got the scraper and this is going to be needed when you're cleaning up when it's all said and done you have to scrape it off so unlike FDM printers where you can print and especially if you're printing in PLA you just leave the role of filament right on the printers and just leave the printer for months if you want there's not going to be any harm in that with with one of these you've got a set up gonna pour the resin in and when you're done you want to clean that you got to get it fully clean before you put it away unless you're just going to be constantly printing with it and even then you know you're gonna have to do maintenance cycles because you don't want that resin to build up on the glass of the of the reservoir finally in the bus we have a couple of tools and the obligatory flush cutters that come in every one of these 3d printer kits yeah that's that's all there is to it how simple is that so so the complication will come when we are actually getting this printing and dealing with the resin but let's take a look at the instruction manual and figure out exactly what it is that I need to do I need to download a slicer software I'm sure and present in the tray and yeah all right to the computer here on the World Wide Web we are looking at the website for Chi 2 box and Chi 2 box is the slicing software that's recommended in the user manual for this printer beyond that though Uncle Jesse shout-out to the other youtuber Uncle Jesse he says the best one out there right now as of you know what June 30th 2019 there's nothing better so yeah let's get Chi to box right well there's a couple of red flags here first of all they really want cookies to be used look at this this pop up here on the bottom I've never seen it quite like this before and when you click on the account tab here you can see English and Chinese so that's pretty much the tell that chichi box is a Chinese company and you know I'm a little bit skeptical a little bit hesitant about Chinese companies thinking back to the last Chinese New Year where so many Chinese citizens were not allowed to get on airplanes because their social credit score wasn't high enough to allow them to fly so we all know that China whatever the Chinese Communist Party has designs on global control and I can easily see a situation in the future where they're tracking the young cookies and all that and they decide that my social credit isn't high enough to I don't know purchase the latest and greatest product from China or something like that you know they're gonna keep global citizens in line not just their own citizens so I really don't trust Chinese companies you know I don't trust most companies but Chinese companies are especially not trustworthy because they are just one step removed from the Chinese Communist Party so maybe I don't have to use cookies I can just press the download button and get the latest and greatest chiju box software here's the windows 64 version download but no it just boots you back into the account login page and I already tried using a bogus email that doesn't work they really want to know who you actually are so they can track you luckily the cheater box software comes on the thumb drive with the printer here so I do have a version of Chi Chi box to install of course if you're really being paranoid I just stuck a an unknown USB Drive from China into my computer so I probably have all the Chinese viruses at this point anyway here is the geometry that I'm going to print and I'm gonna use this as my test geometry for a couple of reasons first of all it's a really challenging print right this would be a nightmare to print with an FTM printer because there's absolutely not a single flat surface anywhere on this print so that means you're going to need a hundred percent support material to get it to work now you can see these sort of creases here like there's one on the outside that's the parting line for the two-part mold so I was contracted to build this part for you know an industrial process that's injection molding and they're gonna produce tons of them so this is not just something that you made to be 3d printed this is prototyping and as it's a prototype we need it to be as true to the final injection molded part as we can possibly get it which means nobody who's even halfway professional would even think of using FDM printers to make this part so this is the ideal part to make on a resin based printer alright so this is chichi box fully installed and you can see that I've imported my model here and I've even drawn in the supports or auto-generated the supports and this is not a review for chichi box which is an entirely different thing from this printer but you absolutely need a good slicer to get the printer to work to its full potential so this does seem to be a good slicer unfortunately it seems really similar to the formlabs slicer that I was using with that with that consulting job and well you know I you guys know how I feel about copycats so formlabs very much an entrepreneurial venture by some guys here from America from the West and it's just another instance of China coming in and copying the hard work done by an entrepreneurial team here in the West so it's it sucks it sucks as an entrepreneur I really empathize with these guys getting their products stolen so I don't know if this is a stolen product or not it just it seems kind of similar but anyway this is ready to go so let's just hit this slice button here and now we can see here on the right is this whatever bar that you can use to just see the the each layer so there's layer 1 2 3 you can just see the cross section here in the black and that's the cross section of what it's printing and then on the left hand side there you can see the actual part being printed so pretty cool little simulation so I'll just save this file to the USB Drive and stick the USB drive into the printer and we should be able to print it as I was installing all that stuff onto the computer I've read the manual and I learned a couple of key bits of information first of all you do not use this scraper to scrape the bottom reservoir the the glass down there see it says don't scrape there it's only used for scraping the platen and that also has something interesting that I learned because this button looks like a familiar size right that's about the size of your cell phone and there's a reason for that this is not a laser-based SLA printer this is an LED printer so that inside there it's basically just a cell phone screen behind some glass so that's why you're not going to scrape that glass you'll you'll introduce you know scratches or whatever that will affect your print quality so you want to treat that glass right there as nicely as you can and the scraper here is for scratching parts off the platen also here on the very last page of the manual I learned that these filters are not for pouring resin into the reservoir from the bottle they're not for that they're for quite the opposite therefore taking the reservoir once you've finished with a print and pouring the resin back into the bottle and that way any printing bits or you know other contaminants don't get put back in the bottle once you're done printing so a couple of key little bits of information just I chair so I followed the instructions here for leveling the platen and I've also got the USB Drive installed here into the back of the printer so I'm ready to go let's add this green resin into the reservoir and it says to fill it up about a third of the way this is a pretty small print so I don't know that I need that much resin in there but just in case alright looks good to me and then down here there's the print menu and then you can actually see your print it's got a little picture of it pops it up so you know that the print is the one that you want and then just press play put this lid on there I'm going to sleep so I will catch up with you guys in this print first thing in the morning and we can figure out how the whole thing's worked out the inaugural print is done but there's a problem let's take a look at this up close and we will see that for some reason my print got stretched so that arm to that arm should be 90 degrees and it got stretched in the Z direction for some reason so I'm gonna wash this right here with this alcohol in that little tub and then we'll take it outside and cure it in the sunlight and then maybe trying to figure out why it's doing this before I finish curing this in the sunlight let's um run the test print that came on the machine and the reason I want to do that is to tell if I did something wrong setting up the slicer I mean I went through the slicer if I can't see that I did anything wrong but if the test print comes out fine then we know it's something I did you can see the first layer that's printing these first few layers it takes longer to do them because it's really trying to bond the part to the to the platen alright well now that that's printing let's get this part cleaned up the part here is kind of sticky gooey slimy to the touch and we need to just wash off that outer skin of of resin basically just get that sort of the drippings off so just rinse it in a bath of alcohol like so and then we'll just pull it out and let it sit in the Sun and all that resin will fully cure that hasn't cured already so that's the one final step that's sort of necessary in these resin printers unfortunately they don't just pop off the bed ready to go okay we're 85 percent of the way through this print here this is the sample print that came on the machine and this is very important this is very telling about these machines coming from China because this is really no different than all the other models that you're getting from all the other Chinese companies and what's happening is you can see that the Platinum lifts up above the the next layer height and that gives a moment for the resin to flow in and fill in the gaps and then it sinks back down to the correct layer height it hits it with the ultraviolet light and that's the layer that's how fast the layer gets made but pay attention to each time that it lifts you hear that thunk and also did you see the like ripple in the in the pool of resin what's happening is the part that you can see the shape of the part here so the circle and the little net that is suction cutting it's basically getting almost glued down to the glass on the bottom of the reservoir so that's a problem and in order to overcome that problem the fancy more expensive resin printers have a flexible transparent membrane and they peel so instead of coming straight up off the bed like that they peel and it's just like having a flexible bed on your OFDM printer you pay for what you get I guess this still produces prints it's pretty incredible what it's doing for what three hundred and fifty dollars but it's far from perfect that's for sure all right so the double rook print that came on the SD card from the factory that's completed let's turn off the printer so we're not talking over that fan noise anymore and we'll just take a closer look at this print there you can see it as it's sitting right there there's like a little drip so that's why we have to rinse the parts in alcohol to get all of that off and then we stick it in the Sun or you can make a DIY ultraviolet curing chamber but you have to do that final process just to get it fully cured so the part will be fully done at that point [Music] I wasn't too bad all right let's go stick those in the sunshine and get them cured well this is interesting you can see the air bubbles here in the base of these parts and I don't know if those air bubbles are caused by the alcohol getting in there but I don't think that's the case I think that's uncured resin inside of a internal cavity without a drainage hole yeah see if that hardens after leaving it in the Sun for an hour or so we'll see what happens actually I don't even need to wait an hour because this is extremely hot to the touch which means that the ultraviolet light from the Sun is causing the the chemical reaction to take place in there and the exothermic reaction is creating heat all right these came out looking just fine there's no weird proportionality to them unlike this one that's all stretched so that means that I did something wrong when I was setting this up in the slicer well I think I found the reason that I got such a funky print here on this part here in settings and then you got a click on default no you got to click on this so it's a little bit hidden and then you can choose where as our printer here the elegant Mars okay and now that we've done that we can close this down and Reis lice this and send that newly sliced geometry and we should get a perfectly viable print all right let's empty that a resin tray back into the bottle so what I want to do here is switch colors and the first thing that you need to do of course is to clean the current tray so here we have the bottle get it ready and that looks like it doesn't quite so you see there's actually a little bit of you can see my finger here's a Harbor Freight funnel so I'm just going to use that the rest of the way it's funny now that I'm emptying this I'm feeling this membrane sounds like a drum interesting so I guess I just have to hold it here while it drains for a few minutes okay I'm just gonna prop it there like that and let all of the resin drain off of the film and then I will fill up the reservoir again with the new color well this is interesting you can see I'm wiping it gently with this paper towel and some rubbing alcohol just to fully clean it and I'm hoping this shows up on camera but basically there's a little outline of beads where those two circles are and those circles are where the rooks printed so clearly the repetitive printing an end spot sort of wears out the film it does something to the film so I don't know how long this film is gonna last because that's only a single print and it's already showing up on the film here so you know just interesting you can obviously replace that film but I wonder how much that costs here's the photo polymer resin that was sent to me by Ella goo and you can see what the bottom looks like and you can see that there's a label line now opening up this box here this is the stuff that I ordered because I wanted the second color and this wrapping this you know packaging is exactly the same and this bottle is exactly the same it's just got a different label on it so that makes me think that this resin is being produced in the same factory for the two different brands so we should get no difference in results if that's the case but it also sort of hints at the larger thing that I think and that is these printers are a commodity let's put this resin in there now and use this different color all right I should be about enough a little bit more sending a print to this is incredibly simple not nearly as much hassle as setting up an FTM print but it's all the cleanup that makes it a hassle five hours later and here it is after it's been rinsed and dried in the alcohol so let's just clip off all the little supports here in fact you might not even need the Clippers we should just be able to break them off yep just a little push now it's worth noting that here at the top where the park first started to print so everything else was support material and then it starts at the part I had to add these extra little supports and that's because the island was breaking off from that single support and yeah that was a problem but even with these extra supports it still wasn't enough I should have added supports all the way down there you can see the little bit of well you see that line and that's because the part was flexing as it was printing as it was being pulled up off that bed so yeah there's there's an RT form to the the support material here on these parts so there's the part but today is a real cloudy day so I can't take this out into the sunshine to finish curing it and I don't have a curing station built yet so in the meantime I'm gonna do this little hack here where I'm going to use the auto exposure I don't know what this is but it's just sort of like a self-test exposure yeah you guys can see that purple ring I can just sort of like rotate this part around that and it should finish curing and I can feel it I wish you guys could feel this with me but the part becomes sort of less gummy the surface becomes more hard the hazards of being a youtuber I just pinched the holy bejesus out of my hand with my tripod it hurts anyway let's talk about these prints shall we okay so starting off with the very first print one with the bad what is it the bad slicer so not only did I get the slicer wrong but I also didn't wait a long enough time for this to clean in the alcohol solution and what you can see here is down in that corner room a thumbnail is now that should be a nice sharp corner like look at the corner up here nice and sharp and basically that's just sort of extra resin drippings then I took out into the Sun and they cured so that'll mess your print up pretty nicely so you you definitely need to clean your prints sufficiently before you do the final curing of your part so this was one of the two torture tests you know did these things side by side and this is the print that comes with the printer and yeah it's perfect you'd expect it to be the la boum bars makes amazing prints the lesson they learn here is the white powder so what is that that is because I did not let the alcohol that I rinsed it with fully dry before I stuck it in the Sun so if you still have alcohol on it and you do the finished curing in the Sun or in your curing station that's what you're going to get some white residue the next part I tried to do was a you know the fixed slicer and it was proceeding perfectly this looks fantastic you can see there's an iffy moment here at the top where that single support Fang is holding the tip of the print so basically the print was printing from there all the way till it reached that thing over there it's so basically printed that deep before it had two pieces of support on it and so I'm incredibly impressed that it made it this far because we saw with the with the rook pieces where it was popping up off the bed and actually like you know vibrating the bed as it did that so the fact that this part was able to sort of violently pop up off the bed like that and not break off well that's impressive but anyway what happened here you can see it's an incomplete part and my two-year-old walked into the room and unplug the printer I guess he wanted my attention and for the first time ever I've wished that a printer had print resume on power loss unfortunately this one doesn't so if the power cuts out mid print you will have an incomplete print and you'll need to start over and that's exactly what I did here using the black resin the problem here you can see is that single support did not do its job holding the the tip there so that's pretty interesting it held it for a little while and then it just sat there it broke off this is support and it just sat in the bed for that whole print until the support here and the support here caught up to it and then they picked it up and you can see that happens so yeah support materials on these prints does seem to be a bit of an art form you don't want too many attachment points because the attachment points do show in the final product but um you need enough so that it doesn't break off and just to show you guys again close up here you can see those four extra little support bits that I had to make here on this part so finally here's my successful print now I need it a little bit more than that just those four supports you can see the little bit of artifacting here this it's not quite perfect a little Ridge so if I had more support I could have gotten this to be absolutely perfect but I am super impressed you can see some of the voxels the voxel lines which is just some striations in the print but they're not noticeable that much you know you could easily sort of sand them out if you really wanted to really just super impressive stuff out of a 250 dollar printer just phenomenal now there's a reason that I chose this as the geometry is my chest geometry and that is because I have this part left over from when I was doing that contracting job and this was printed on a form to actually might have been a form one my finger was a form to so we're now up to form three at formlabs and you know they've got the peeling bed and all that other fancy stuff so that's a three thousand dollar printer or $4,000 per to the form 3mm five thousand dollars once you get the curing station and all that but the prints are what five ten percent better than what I'm getting out of a 250 dollar printer so two hundred and fifty dollars four thousand dollars ah that's quite the price difference for that extra 10 percent then that's you know that's just how it goes the last 10 percent takes all the time and costs all the money so this is definitely better and if you are a professional you're definitely gonna want to go with the form printers but the formlabs printers but man for the rest of us this is so close it's just super impressive two hundred and fifty dollars for this printer to make parts like this yeah I'm surprised this is this is not the level of quality I was expecting out of this printer this is definitely better than I thought so here's the part fully removed and it's not cured like I did not stick this in the Sun so it's not fully hardened but I can still sort of use it to demonstrate the strength characteristics of resin so you can see this this uncured part will bent to a point and then it's just gonna snap there well how it's really bending so like I said uncured part here which is part of the reason why it's so flexible but these cured parts will there we go they will Brynn they will break let's just take this part here and do the same thing oh actually pretty strong not too bad there we go they do snap in the end but and they have quite a particular before they do snap let's try it again with this part here this has not been cured let's yeah that's a good little snap so yeah you can see they do break but they are pretty strong reasonably strong the benefit to the resin is that it's equally strong in all directions XY and z so how do you know you might actually have some some functional prints that you can make out of this stuff it doesn't just have to be decorative as promised here's the thing disassembled at least a little bit okay so what we've got going on here is this ribbon cable coming off the control board here is going to the cell phone screen which is ramped against the glass so right behind there is the UM is the cell phone screen and then what you have is an ultraviolet light a very powerful ultraviolet light that requires this heatsink and a fan to keep it cool and that's basically projecting light through the cell phone screen so that's a transparent LED screen and so that's the light that cures the resin and then the screen either blocks the light pixel by pixel or let's the light through pixel by pixel so I don't know what this control board is obviously it's not something that we've seen before because it would be entirely different than here regular Cartesian style FDM printer so this is basically probably a very simplified cell phone control board you know they don't have to get it into the small spaces that a cell phone would have to be but probably got chips that you're gonna find out of cell phones and yeah it's gonna be just a dumbed down cell phone basically well just the screen we don't need all the other functionality all the radios and whatnot from the cell phone so that's probably a pretty basic control board and then we have the secondary screen and that's the touch screen here on the front and that's also obviously by the control board so there might be two different chips each running her own screen here on the control board and then taking a look here at the back we can see the control board with the typical hot snot glued just keep things plugged in there's a little buck converter that's a boost controller so that gets you from out of the 12 volts or something up to like whatever the voltage is needed on the on that high-powered UV light and that's pretty much all there is to it so almost all of this technology is just takeoffs from the cell phone industry and it has very little to do with 3d printing there's our single stepper motor that drives the lead screw here so that's our only moving component and then of course I have this linear rail right there that controls the motion so the lead screw here gets the gets the head to the right height and the thing keeps the that keeps that rigid from moving is the linear motion guide there the final question left to answer is resin based 3d printing better than FTM 3d printing like if you're a newbie and you have to choose between one or the other of these machines which one should you get so it's a good question but before I answer it let's talk about these wonderful guys these are my monetary supporters for this channel and without them the truth is I would not be making videos it's a small channel and I absolutely rely on their support so thank you so much if you are one of these guys and if you're not one of these guys maybe consider joining their wings alright so resin printing clearly makes more detailed parts than an FTM machine now like I said in the beginning you could put a point two millimeter nozzle on this machine and you could probably with a lot of effort getting very finely detailed print off of an FTM machine a few years ago there are a lot of people trying it and and you don't see a lot of people doing it anymore because it's just too much effort and it's just not worth it so if you need detailed prints resin printing is the way to go and it's surprisingly strong I thought it would be weaker the prints would be weaker than they are so yeah pretty good strength really good detail if that's what you're after detailed plus a little bit of strength you can certainly make some functional prints out of this and if you're making decorative prints this is definitely the way to go but you are limited to a single material and that material is a very photosensitive UV curing resin and it has to be more photosensitive than the stuff that they're using in SLA machines because the laser the ultraviolet laser is more powerful so you need less of the catalyst so probably that means that the SLA prints are going to be stronger but I don't know I'm not a chemist so there are of course nuances but basically you're making the decision based on resolution that's why you want a resin based machine for the ability to print with thermoplastics a wide range of different things even like you know rubbery supporting you know support material rubbery material all kinds of different stuff this is just going to be much more versatile but you're going to lose the the resolution and you're also going to lose strength in the Z direction so the resin equally strong XY and Z all directions this is equally strong with FDM printing those stacked layers it tends the the prints tend to break so even if you are making functional prints um I'm going to say that the Z direction on an FTM printer is weaker than the any direction with the resin printers now that's just based on my little finger calibration test that you saw at the break test you saw me do I'm really looking forward to Stephan at CNC kitchen doing a comparison video of course that's probably going to come eventually he'll do a crucial that Purusha printer he'll compare that to the Prusa OFDM printer that the strength of the parts so I imagine that's something he's working on with his testing apparatus but in the meantime I can tell you just you know off the cuff that yeah about the same or maybe a little bit weaker with the FDM prints in the Z direction but X&Y a lot stronger here especially if you're gonna use something like carbon fiber impregnated ptg that's going to be a very high performance material so there are ways to engineer your parts from an FTM machine that are completely viable whereas if you're using them for mechanical purposes the resin prints are not gonna do it so yeah it's better resin printing is better in a way it's easier to use basically just pour the resin in the slicer soccer it takes like no time you don't have to get somebody you know custom slicing profile to get it to work it just it's so easy with that Chi 2 box slicer which you know dubious as it might be functions fantastically and it's just super easy put your gel tray in their press slice make sure you've got your supports where you need them and it'll print and then you just have to clean up the resin after you're done so much easier much higher resolution for the introductory person to 3d printing I think this is going to be a winner but if you really want to get into it and you want to tinker and you want to make some truly functional mechanically speaking some truly functional parts then FDM 3d printing it's still where it's at that's obviously still where I'm going to be spending the bulk of my time on this channel all right well that's about it for this video thanks for watching see you next time

Channel: Design Prototype Test

Views: 330,595

Rating: 3.8433917 out of 5

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Id: N_Jg7O4lf5g

Length: 40min 23sec (2423 seconds)

Published: Tue Jul 02 2019