223 / 556 case prep, step by step

alright what's up YouTube it's going to be a quick video of how I process two two three five five six brass civilian NATO military korean on cream all of it doesn't matter so with that being said this is a pretty good mix of online bought brass you know there are several websites out there that sell fired brass for reloading purposes and then i've get a mound of it is from local ranges and stuff that i've picked up that i fired that was store-bought so nothing in here has been prepped at all it's all been fired and picked up off the ground by somebody with that being said jump right into it so the first steps gonna be it's got to be clean to run through a press you know the sizing guy is gonna be a big part of this one so tumble it in the walnut' media I really don't like corn cob for cleaning if you look at the edge of the corn cob and walnut and just kind of shoot this stuff that you see out there walnut is really for cleaning and corn cob is for polishing so with that being said I like to tumble it in a walnut for a thirty minutes hour something like that just enough if you pick it up look at it and you think it's clean enough to run through a sizing dot hey run with it smooth it's basically what we're getting at so tumblin walnut media 30 minutes hour something like that as long as it's a good media then bring it inside and what I'm doing then is I'm looping it I'm using an alcohol spray alcohol base spray lubricant put it in a gallon ziplock bag hunter cases to enter cases something like that I'm using Dillon case Lu spray it in there it does have alcohol like I said spray the cases shake them around in the bag get them all lubed up keep the bag open when you get done let the alcohol dry when it's dry when the alcohol is dry you should be left with a good film of lubrication on the cases best way I can describe it somebody described to me you should be able to feel it and not see it too much case sleep you'll start getting pits in the cases and a whole laundry list of problems so just barely enough to feel not see it and that's plenty so I'm bringing into the case feeder I'm running a dillon 650 press you don't need a dillon it doesn't even need to be a 650 but a progressive press nonetheless i feel is what really does the backbone of this process really streamlines it and makes it very time efficient so dumped cases in case we do they come on down to the press and this gonna be the station one here or one of the things that's going on with this press for this press at this point this is a universal D capper assembly from Dillon I think it was $20 putting too bad you don't have to buy this I'll explain why I bought it and why I don't use the sizing guy that come in the two to three die set it has a separate purpose don't get me wrong but as far as the universal D cap assembly goes the only thing I'm looking to do here is knock primers out that's it I don't want to do anything else it's not absolutely necessary but one thing I have noticed a big difference and I haven't heard this anywhere but this is what I found I've run through a couple thousand cases like City and a couple thousand of Winchester within a week of each other I think and the only thing that I could really tell a difference between WCC stamp in an LC Sam Winchester Lake City is with Lake City brass the primers come out clean and this of course this is you know may not be true but at least the batches our own Lake City primer got knocked out very clean and the Winchester brass would knock the here's one right here would knock mm-hmm the the top of the primer out but the wall of the primers stayed there I don't know if that's a Winchester primer that just is brittle I don't know but one thing I have noticed some of those primers were an issue so with the D capper assembly what I'm finding is I can start weeding out those bad primer casings in the first step and you'll see why here in a minute so the first step Universal D capper assembly if you do go this route when you order this call them and get this part number this is the insert that goes in it they come they go screwed together and you only get one of each so this whole assembly screws into that and all it does is punch out primers that one is expected to bend every so often that's just that's why you can buy extras however the two times I've bent these I've also been this so when you buy that assembly buy one of these and at least one of these to go with it so when you bend one you stop for a minute change the parts out and you're back in business you're not waiting four or five days to get parts so station one all we're doing is knocking out primers got the pulse later we're over here in the D the full-length sizing and trimming station this is all done in one and how this works this is a Dylan set up here there's the RT 1500 trimmer not saying this what you need it's just what I have I'm sure any case trimmer would work just fine any one that's set up like this this is the RT 1500 and then this is the full length sizing guy that is specific to the two to three caliber when you buy this you'll need to tell them when you buy this and you buy the die to go with it you have to tell them what caliber it's for and how this works is this is a sizing dial on the bottom it's a full length sizing guy bumps the shoulder back compresses it gets it down into Sammy specs and you adjust this just like you would any full-length rifle sizing die to take the motor off your die in follow directions case check it make your adjustment case check it make your adjustment and get it to where it's acceptable when you do that go ahead and lock it down and what I found helps me especially with this setup right here so you can tell from all my other stuff 42 to 239 380 45 one lock ring is perfectly acceptable on all these other ones however we're trying to tighten things in different directions we're trying to tighten this and we're trying to tighten this and it seems like when you tighten this this loosens and it's just it's a pain for a dollar save yourself some trouble get another lock ring when you order some of this stuff and sandwich that sizing die in there so it cannot move so when you get your full length size or setup go ahead and screw your motor this is all one big attachment here so one big attachment the whole thing screws down on top of the die as you screw down the carbide tooth is on the end of a direct rod and the more you screw it down the more it trims off it's not complicated screw it down until your trim length is where you want it so you'll get your sizing you'll get your sizing down first when that's where you want it and you're checking my case gauge and you're happy with it screw this down and then you start looking at your trim lengths and when you have both of them set do your lock rings it's done when it comes out of this station it's done swings over here drops in the bucket and when it gets to this bucket we have a D primed size and trimmed piece of brass now from there we go into the swaging while it's still dirty and I'm gonna be touching it a lot I'll go ahead and roll it right under this way G and a couple different things happen here like I mentioned earlier two two three and five six it just all goes together maybe back in the day or maybe I'm wrong but I've heard that if if you have NATO brass five five six or military whatever you want to call it it will have a cramp primer pocket but if you have civilian it won't well it's not the case I've bought two to three gram stamped civilian ammo from a non-military store like it was just I wish I could remember the brand of it I don't but two to three gram and it had a cream primer pocket so Conda made the decision then everything's getting switched for a couple different reasons one I don't have to look at it as fast as I can look and see if it has a crimp primer pocket I can just about swaging using the still and super swedge 600 here pretty good machine there's some cheaper stuff out there this is just what I have it's fast and it doesn't make a mess I've got one that you can cut the primer pockets out there's a lot of speculation out there you don't want the cut material on your brass yada-yada-yada not saying they're wrong I'm wrong they're right I'm right whatever the case may be but man in my opinion when you look at that primer pocket and you cut it over a clean sheet of paper and you see the amount of brass that I he comes out of a primer pocket cream there's more I think that comes off of some bottleneck trimmings so I I don't know use your judgement it doesn't matter to me I've I've cut him and I've ice waged him I haven't found a difference I've cut them and they hold primers great so whatever works for you this just happens to be what I'm set up and currently running right now so as fast as I can look at a piece of brass and check to see if it's crimped or not I can just go ahead and swage it so I swage everything and then on top of that I don't know of a suede you're out there where if you swage it twice it'll actually hurt it so if it happens to make its way through here and end up back on the table if it gets sway just a second time in its life it's not gonna hurt it brass only needs to be suede one time to get that crimp out after that it doesn't matter so I just suede it all it's not a big deal so after they gets waged I go ahead and give them a bath and let me kind of explain where we're at so far so with this particular piece of brass what we've done with it we full-length sized it we've D primed it we've swage dit and we've trimmed it now here's where you can run into some speculation I'm just gonna tell you how I do anybody who's trimmed a rifle brass or if you do some research on trimming rifle brass you will know that you end up with burrs shavings things like that you have to deal with it I'm not saying you don't one of the ways that I learned when I was first getting into it is the the chamfer and the deburr you basically kind of deburr the inside of that and then chamfer the outside and then you're going to go as you can see I'm starting to get some flakes just from kind of with it but um anyways very time-consuming what I did stumble across is these are all nasty they got case loom on them so they're gonna have to be cleaned anyways so what I have found is I've been wet tumbling them after I go ahead and use dawn that takes care of the case Lube lemme shine is another product I put in there not much like a tablespoon I think shines them up real good makes it easier to quality check them things of that nature but the stainless steel media pins not only are they gonna really clean out the inside of the of the brass and the primer pockets the stainless steel media pins pretty much chamfer and deburr that case mouth while they're in there of course this is my theory but all the stuff that I pull out that comes out of there just has a smooth nice finish like there's no burrs it's not sharp I'm not getting shavings and where the proof is in the pudding so to speak when I see bullets I get no problem whatsoever another tip use boat tail and you'll have even less problems I'm sure so when you tumble them after you've ran them through the press with the science D prime trim then you swage them and you run them through a wet tumbler use the stainless steel media pins and in my opinion you eliminate the step of having to chamfer and deeper it seems to be working out ready for me so after that [Music] you can use a case dryer that's that's not a bad one right there Liman cyclone I need to do a review on it it's not bad i buyed again so and then let's come back to here here's why I don't use this this is the full length sizing die a deep rhyming assembly that comes from Dylan with the kid the 2 to 3 kit this is how it looks and really the only difference between this and the one I showed you is that little ball right there what that does is that's your sizer how it's designed is it drops in there into the case after it does it gets sized and then when you pull this back out its size is the mouth of that case so nice so I move this to my loading setup and here's why you'll notice when you start running all this brass through you're gonna end up with a little bit of trash especially if you decide to tumble it and corncob to get a good shine on it or a piece of a primer pocket whatever what I'm getting at is I don't like moving stuff around from tool head to toe edge so I went with that the D prime and I leave this in this part of the process because what this does is right before we prime it and powder it and see the bullet I'm running this three I'm clearing that flash hole in anything that might have gotten launched in the primer pocket piece of trash or whatever and then also I'm ensuring that my case mouth has a nice round smooth finish on it so and how this sets up issues through this all the way down your sizing guy all the way up and then you lower the whole thing just enough to where the only thing that this whole assembly is doing is clearing flash holes and smoothing out the mouth of that pocket or the mouth of that case mouth the mouth of the case melody but all that's doing is clearing that primer and flash hole and smoothing out the case mouth making it nice and round take a bullet all that does so that's about buddy tack rescue services good dude turn with Arkansas that's what she's and buddy check them out tack rescued out from a lot of good stuff lot of services who provides feel like I'm missing something but I think that's it if you have any questions comments concerns please leave them in the comment section below I'll try to get back to that's pretty much it be safe shoot often have fun thanks for watching

Channel: Andrew Boyd

Views: 6,220

Rating: 4.6404495 out of 5

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Id: -lBPkkV5FEQ

Length: 18min 2sec (1082 seconds)

Published: Sat Jan 12 2019