2.2. Sling TSi Wing - Skins

[Music] [Applause] to begin the installation of your wingskins uh the best way to start here is going to be to have another person help you flip the entire wing skeleton upside down so that the underside of the wing is facing up the first skins that we're going to install will be the bottom skins and this is going to be by far the easiest way to make sure everything is lining up properly and fitting together properly so as you can see here as usual i've got all the parts unwrapped deburred cleaned and dimpled where necessary not shown here is the lower stringer is already in place here just remember that the channel opening faces away from the main spar in addition to that you're going to have your three for the left wing and two for the right wing inspect inspection hatch grip plates here unwrapped dimpled and cleaned up also just remember that the largest hole on both the skin and these plates does not get dimpled this is actually just a pass-through hole for the bolt to pass through to lock in your actual inspection plate covers another thing to make note of is these you'll want to rivet onto the underside of all three ports before you click oh and rivet your skins in it just makes it a lot easier to access it and make sure it's all fitting together and on the left and right wing the far outboard inspection port there's actually a little bit of an interference between the the hinge bracket plate here and this rivet so let me give you a close-up of that so here we're looking at the far outboard inspection hatch and this goes for both wings as i mentioned earlier um it's only this one hole so what i'm about to say only pertains to this one hole on each wing there's an interference with the rivet being able to pass through and mount your inspection port grip plate onto the back here as you can see there's that interference with this channel below so actually the problem is that even after this eight millimeter rivet is pulled the tail of the rivet is still going to interfere with that channel so you have two options one option is to source a shorter countersunk rivet or the easier option the quicker option is actually to gently remove the mandrel from the body of the rivet and with a rotary tool trim back the body of the rivet either to the first notch or just slightly past that to shorten the body of the rivet and then reinstall it under the mandrel that'll allow when you do pull that rivet there's less material behind it on the tail and that'll fix this interference with this channel here if you don't do that you'll just end up with a very slight flare up in your skins and potentially a little bit of difficulty installing and removing your inspection hatch plate covers now that we've got our inspection hatch grip plates installed into all three inspection hatches it's time to begin click going and then riveting the skins into position um remember by far the easiest way to do this is click o your main spar and your rear spar into position first so place the clecos first fairly well spread out along each spar and then fill them in and then move on to your ribs this is because the the jig can allow for a little bit of shifting in this direction so you want to lock in that shift before you go into click going your ribs into position once everything is clea coated in and seems to be lining up properly you can begin riveting so now that we've got our bottom skins riveted onto the wing here there's a couple things to make note of first is because of that shift that i mentioned earlier that the jig allows before this step is complete you just really want to make sure that all of your holes on your rear spar and your main spar are lining up perfectly there shouldn't really be any need for match drilling these holes and if there is it's most likely because your jig is just slightly torqued on the table there so something to make note of for this step is we're going to leave the rivets behind the rear spa here on the trailing edge of the bottom skin off for now that's because when we put on our root skin on the top it actually has a little lip that curves around and underneath the skin so all to do that because these rivets are still off all i have to do is remove these glico's lift the skin up slightly and allow that curve to get underneath this skin here and that way we don't have that little edge here we've just got a nice straight aerodynamic surface here in addition to that we're going to leave off the rivets from this point where the main spar starts with two angles down to one angle here from this point to the tip of the wing we're going to leave all of these rivets off the main spar for now because these are going to be used to mount your leading edge skin as well as this section here from this rib over to the main spar is going to be used to mount your fuel tanks later in addition to that don't forget your doubler plates these are just reinforcement plates that go on the underside of the main spar here because the spar is thinner out here and so your countersink may have enlarged that hole just slightly so this gives those rivets something to really grip onto for now i have this off because i'm going to need to remove these clecos anyway to install the leading edge skin but don't forget to install this when the time comes to actually install these rivets and these go on the far tip of both the top and the bottom of the main spar so the next step is we're going to flip the entire assembly back over and we're going to install our pitot tube as well as the lines for pitot and angle of attack and all the wiring for the heated pitot tube as well as your landing and taxi lights and your wingtip strobe so now we've got all of our wires and tubing run through this left wing here a couple of things to make note of most of it's fairly straightforward so i'll just go over that part really quick the six core shielded wire as well as the 16 gauge white teflon wire those run down through your center strip wing stringer here and they go out the six core goes to your nav light and the two white wires go to your landing and taxi lights so i ground them to the airframe ground at the taxi light location but you can if you want to run an additional ground wire back to the fuselage so once you've run those wires you'll just use these zip ties through the holes that are nicely placed for you to secure the wire within the stringer and everything should be good to go of course install the grommets for all of this everywhere that they're required before you run your wires because you won't be able to get them installed and leave enough extra length on each end so that you have more than enough to work with it's always easier to cut off wire than add more later so this particular build has a heated and regulated pitot tube so one trick with that is it's going to have the regulator unit which needs to be mounted near the tube pitot tube itself so i've built this this rack mount for it to mount easily to the rib with four riv nuts to install it and remove it easily with just four screws you can install it to the inspection hatch plate itself but i like this option better because then when you remove the plate you don't have any components hard mounted to it so then make sure all of your wires are nicely secured uh the push rod slides directly through the center of all of your rib holes this front round hole here and you want to make sure that there's no interference with any of the components with that push rod because over time you'll wear through your wires or wear through your pitot tubes and of course that would not be good so as you can see here the pitot tube from garmin specifically comes with two very long metal tubes coming out the top of it and you're going to need to trim those off so i trim the front the forward most tube is your pedo and the rear tube is your angle of attack indicator so the way i do that is i trim the front one so it's about an inch longer than the rear one so that way you've got access to both and everything's very easy to assemble and then you install tie wire at least two places i've got three on the pitot and two on the angle of attack to make sure that that tube is really well sealed onto the the metal tube so there are other kits that are available to make these connections a little bit easier this is what the sling kit comes with and it's perfectly sufficient as long as it's done properly another thing to make note of is the the metal tubes that come out of the top of your pitot are actually very soft and malleable if you have a tube bender or even just gently by hand you're able to slightly bend them so that there's enough space between them to get both hoses on as well as so that they're slightly angled just a way to make sure that you're keeping clear of your aileron push rod and so from there you just make sure everything's nicely secured so that there's no risk of it ever moving in flight so that that you can you know guarantee that there's no abrasion between those and everything should be good to go in addition to that i like to install these standoffs between the pedo and angle of attack tubes and the wires this makes sure that just in between here nothing can jostle around and potentially droop or sag or get out of position and it just makes things a little bit more secure down the road because it is inside the wing it's really difficult to access so doing that now is is a better step so i just use little clips of the pvc tubing to make the standoff and then a zip tie around that and everything is held nice and securely so the next step is we're going to install our top wing skins as you can see the topskins have all been installed onto the wing now um of course as always they were unwrapped deburred cleaned and dimpled where necessary the only dimpling that needs to be done for this step are the four millimeter rivets along the main spar and one 3.2 millimeter rivet at the end um this process though very time consuming is fairly straightforward and easy just like with the bottom skins just make sure to start by clicking your main spar and your rear spar and then everything should line up properly and make it very easy to get the clecos into the ribs and install all your rivets one thing to make note of for this particular step is the section of this far trailing edge row of rivets here that's going to be for your flap which is marked by this small notch here all the way down to the root right here all of these rivets the kit comes with 3.2 by 6 millimeter rivets that aren't the traditional multi-grip that's used everywhere else if you use those rivets here there's going to be less interference with the rivet tail between your flaps when they're fully retracted this gap is very very tight when the flaps are fully retracted for better aerodynamics and flight however the 3.2 by 8 millimeter standard multi-grip rivets the rivet tails will have some slight interference with your flap when it's fully retracted so these 3.2 by 6 millimeter rivets really help to alleviate that issue um the section from this notch here outwards is for your aileron and there's not the same issue with interference between the standard 3.2 by 8 millimeter rivets and your aileron here we're looking at the bottom side of the wing root and as i mentioned earlier we left off these rivets on the bottom here so that we're able to get the top root skin underneath the bottom root skin and so now that we've got the top root skin in position i've as you can see i have installed the rivets under the underside now it's time to install the leading edge skin onto the wing a couple things to make note of here before you assemble it are remember to install your retaining strips on the inside of the main spar top and bottom remember to install the eight riv nuts into your landing light rib here it's very difficult to access that after the skin is in place also we're going to leave off of all the rivets on this rib here top and bottom the fuel tank is going to use these holes to align and mount into all of these holes on the main spar here to here and this rib and so when it comes time to install the skin here the best way to do it is to make sure that you get this tie-down notch here onto the hook first and install it upwards from the bottom and wrap it around to the top if you try to go from the top down it may seem easier but you're not going to be able to get that notch over the hook and the last thing before our wing is complete for this part of the process is we're going to assemble our inspection plates the first step here is to put the clear plastic film over the plate before dimpling then you can trim off the edges and make it nice and flush around there and then you can move to dimpling if you dimple first it gets really hard to get the plastic to kind of conform to those dimples i find that this way is much easier to do also keep in mind to install your rivnut here before you've riveted the inspection plate to the grip plate here you can do it afterwards but it's just a lot easier to access before they're connected and lastly as you can see i've got six rivets holding this grip plate on or the inspection plate and i've left these two holes clear this is so that we can use a tool with two pins to install and remove this inspection plate because the countersunk rivets here it's really difficult to find anything to grab onto so all right so now this portion of the wing build is complete with our leading edge skin installed remember as i mentioned earlier to leave off the rivets where your fuel tank is going to attach and we've got our inspection plates all under on the underside of the wing installed nicely so leave the wing on the jigs for now if you've got room for it it's going to make it a lot easier when it comes time to build your fuel tanks and we'll address that in another video but one portion of that is to fit it onto the wing before actually riveting the assembly together so it all fits together nicely so for now we're complete you

Channel: Sling Aircraft

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Id: 6rqs5OM1zUY

Length: 16min 10sec (970 seconds)

Published: Fri Mar 19 2021