1976 Jeep Revival (USPS Mail) - Will it Run? (NOT What I Expected!)

hi my friends and welcome to the channel today i'm luke thunderhead289 here on youtube and we're back to the mail jeep again you asked for it you're gonna get it and so uh anyway i got all hooked up out back to the tractor i did all this last night in the dark you know i come home from work i get home like six or so you know and this time of year that only leaves me like an hour to maybe do something in the daylight and it's getting less and less and less so anyway last night i got this thing all hooked up and we're gonna try and pull it out of the woods and the weeds that you know it's sat back here on my tree line since you know lord knows how long long enough that it's sunk into the ground pretty good so tractor's all hooked up we're gonna try and yank it out of there and get it up here where i can much more easily work on it you know given that i only have a few hours a day if i'm lucky so with that let's jump out here and get this stuff [Applause] [Music] all right here we are we got the ford all hooked up to the jeep yesterday when i was out here last night in the dark i tried to air up all the tires some of these were pretty darn flat and then i tried to actually put it in neutral and see if i could even roll the vehicle and it's either because the brakes are seized which i wouldn't be surprised given all the humidity of it being out here it's like the ballad of a thousand mosquitoes even right now but uh you know either the brakes are seized or it sat down in a hole and it's really sunk down in either way with the thing in neutral and all that i couldn't really roll the vehicle kind of concerning so i don't know you know it's gonna be pretty hard to pull i might regret using the tractor and wish i would have brought the f250 down here but i don't know we'll just see how it goes you know 1942 20 or 30 horsepower versus a jeep that's very well sunk into the mud or seized brakes or both it's probably both just going over a few final checks here before i put the grunt to her got the steering wheel locked so the front wheels can't try and turn on me going down the road probably be advantageous put this bad boy in neutral there's no breaks in the thing so i do actually hope the wheels drag a little bit because i have some hills you know and so i'd really like if the jeep didn't run into the back end of the tractor and considering i'm just pulling it with a chain ah could get a little bit weird this whole tractor has been one of my most favorite vehicles i've ever got running i don't know what's so fun about it it's just kind of different you know it's like driving a model a but it's a tractor so not at all like a model a [Music] now when i was younger [Music] all right well something broke her free she was real tight pretty hard on the old clutch on the tractor but she's finally seeming to move either the wheels broke free or we pulled it up out of the hole either way she's coming on with us now so here we go oh yeah little ford's not having too much trouble [Music] well this is definitely interesting this would be a lot easier with two people someone to steer we're doing it okay and we'll still probably get to work on time [Music] so [Music] that's a prime unit right there that's definitely going in the dumpster okay a bunch of animal poop in the corner but other than that could be worse not so bad see what we're dealing with for floors how about that i didn't even know these came with ac but this must be a special special unit to keep your feet cool it's got the floorboard air conditioning not too bad that's about the worst rust on the whole rig except for this spot here on the fender but with that my friends see if we can get it to run all right so first things first my friends there's a few things with revivals i'm always concerned about the first one is after sitting the cylinders can kind of rust up the one that has the intake valve exhaust valves open you know moisture can get in there and rust up those cylinders now if you remember from our first video this thing actually seemed to have a tight spot when cranking so given that what i'm going to do is i'm going to pull all the spark plugs out and we're just going to squirt a little bit of atf in there and roll it over just to lubricate that top end as much as we can then if any rings are stuck hopefully through a heat cycle they'll free up so we got to do that obviously we're going to change the oil and then it has old varnished fuel in the back so we're going to try and get some new fuel in the thing but with that let's get started first things first pull the plugs now i'm pretty suspicious of this vehicle it seems like it has a newer oil filter starter plug wires the spark plugs are not all that rusted up especially considering the humid area where it's been sitting so you know kind of leads one to be suspicious of the fact that there may be a mechanical issue as to why this thing was parked and a really quick tip if you don't have the firing order of an engine memorized it's very simple just to get a permanent marker and just mark on the plug wires one through however many cylinders your engine is which in this case it's six and it's easy as it's in a line so one through six marked pull them all off and not have to worry about trying to remember the firing order or where they went assuming someone did the firing order right to start with which you know you never know so i got a little jug of atf here and then i got one of these pumps and we're gonna just put in like maybe there we go about three pumps of atf into the cylinder again just to free everything up this is one of those things that folks tend to go wrong with with revivals you know stuff that's sat they'll just shred the cylinder right away if they don't do something like this so a little bit of lubrication in the chamber goes a long way after something's been dormant all right well we're letting that all marinate in the cylinders it's a good opportunity to take a look at the distributor cap rotor you know a little corroded easily scrape all that out and clean that up but what i'm most interested in is actually the advanced mechanism advance plate a lot of folks on these old carbureted engines they always overlook ignition timing and i always say carburetors are extremely forgiving ignition timing is where you make all your power and really what makes the vehicle run well if this stuff is messed up it's hopeless so i've attached a little vacuum hose here to the vacuum port and it should be when i suck on this hose um basically we're you know making a vacuum on it and we should see the advanced plate move i can already tell you from doing that i can blow air and suck air right through it so whatever diaphragm in here is completely gone so vacuum advance is not doing anything this is the other thing you always want to check is shaft play and i'll tell you what i mean if you can visually see it it's pretty bad this might be why this thing ended up getting parked this distributor you know is pretty wore out so the vacuum advance is hashed the mechanical advance it's pretty darn tight good and rusted up in there but the shaft play is going to be a problem especially if you add points ignition because it's basically when the shaft is moving around it's altering your dwell and so i'm not sure how it's going to play with this ignition system but you know i definitely classify the condition of this distributor as sub-ideal i'm hoping i can band-aid it with initial timing and you know at least run good enough to drive around pretty okay but it just won't be optimum see what we're dealing with for a carburetor so i never really look that close i think that says carter so it's probably a one barrel carter carburetor and it's going to determine as if it's going to be able to live from sitting all this time is it's not seized so that's good but i'm sure that that accelerator pump in there is completely toast and so that's going to be a problem when we go to run the thing but we'll get some clean fuel in it and check that out i don't have a carter rebuild kit on me so we might have to just clean it and do the best we can alright so all the immediate vacuum leaks that i could see right off are plugged and we have our choke wired open so we're not going to have to be fooling with any of that so this point let's go look at our gas tank situation because we're gonna have to do something there or we really do run the risk of ruining the engine as soon as we would get it running so we have our auxiliary gas tank all hooked up here but i did notice it has a vent back here and it's crimped off and that this is a vented gas cap when i looked at it so or at least it's definitely vented now from all the rubber petrifying so you know this is one of those vapor separator fuel filters and i'm not sure where that goes back to but it definitely doesn't go back to the gas tank to any capacity from what i can tell so i'm just going to cap that off and that's a nice little trick there if you ever need to do something like that like say you're working on a holley and you want to just change your jets out you know while the engine is running you can just clamp this on it'll run the carburetor completely out of fuel the engine will shut off and then you can work on it without spilling fuel all over the place so nice little trick works for brake lines also and this that and the other thing now when i found this thing the starter solenoid didn't seem to work and i had to jump down to the battery but the jump pack was also pretty dead at this point granted it's only at 50 percent right now but we're gonna give it a shot this thing looks a little unique it's actually because it got run over with a trailer on power to her so i kind of rewired some stuff and had to take it apart and put it back together so we're kind of speed reviving here basically i need to roll the engine over again to throw all that transmission fluid out but the same time i'm going to try and test for spark here so i got the coil lead hooked to a spark plug itself and when that distributor turns it should interrupt the ground and it should be discharging a spark on the spark plug that's literally clamped to the negative terminal of the battery so that ought to be a decent ground um now the trick here is that since our starter solenoid is you know seemingly very questionable i need to find a way to snake down to the starter rolled over and at the same time maintain power to the battery i mean i guess i could get a battery out of anything else that's good but what fun is that you know just use an ancient battery that's fine so first things first we're going to turn the key on it's looking good i saw some of the gauges move so that's a good sign we have our negative lead of our multimeter on here and i just want to see if we even have voltage to our coil for the possibility of spark and it looks like we do you can't use the negative side of the coil with your multimeter you know you need to go to an actual ground because that signal is actually getting interrupted and when that coil gets the interrupt it discharges the spark so if you're going to test voltage to the coil you always have to use an auxiliary ground so with that it looks like as far as that goes everything's good um i guess i need to find a way to roll the engine over and maintain power to the rest of the system with the key on to see if everything's gonna work out and hopefully i don't get slammed with transmission fluid which i'm sure i will because it's pointed directly right in my face i know this wimpy lead is not enough to crank the starter so some weird orientation here so that should be good this will also be nice because we'll actually be pumping if the fuel pump works which it looks pretty new relatively you know the last 10 years so maybe we'll get lucky and we can pump fuel up to our carb and get a good reading on the health of the needle and seat and whatnot and get this down here without touching any thing we don't want to that's the trick this is quite the arrangement here [Music] you guys probably can't totally see it on the cam but my face my glasses my arms and pretty much the whole front of my body is covered in transmission fluid from that little endeavor but hey did i do what you gotta do i guess there we go that's what i expected to see i don't know how well you guys can see it on cam but it's dripping from the booster come on needle and seat so at this point aside from the needle and seat questionability on the carb we're in pretty good shape we have spark everything's lubricated we're getting fuel up to the carb at least so everything's all reassembled here plugs are in all the plug wires are in i do have the fuel line clamped because the carb should be full of fuel you know just if it does have a needle and seed issue it won't try and flood it's just going to try and run what's off the bulls here which works for us for a good test i can actually see where someone's whacked on it before so i think there's been issues here previously but this should allow us to at least fire the thing off now given that the advance is all wore out um just a quick check here i'm going to advance the mechanical initial advance and since we have no vacuum that's all we're working with here now if you don't know which way a distributor turns you can simply turn the rotor here and what you're turning on is actually not the whole shaft turning it's the advanced plate for the mechanical advance within the distributor that's rotating and as the engine spins faster and faster the centrifugal force pulls those weights out and they'll advance that rotor so that's what we're feeling there we're just mechanically forcing those springs to turn but the trick here is is so you see it turns this way if you don't know which way it is to advance the distributor you want to turn the distributor body towards that advanced mechanism so it's wanting to turn this way on the rotor we're going to turn the distributor body back towards it this way and just advance our initial timing a skosh and see how it lights off i got the mix screws set to one turn out you know just an arbitrary unit and with that i'll get the distributor all buttoned back up and we'll try and roll the thing over oh and i did steal the battery from the maverick we've gotten this far and i have some hope i'm being overly optimistic so i got a really good battery to try and roll the engine over with like a thousand cranking amps so that should be sufficient so i wish i would have got this on cam here but i actually took the cables off that starter solenoid just scratched into them with a screwdriver and put them back on then i bumped the key and the engine rolled so now we don't have to do all that weird stuff under the hood the key will actually roll the engine over so fingers crossed let's hit the key on this thing carburetor should be full we have ignition we have in theory all the parts for an engine to run let's see what happens i bet you we're going to roll some smoke with that transmission fluid in the cylinders should be a good time oh man well apparently you've got long legs you got to get in here a little weird so the moment i've all been waiting for [Laughter] oh it's kind of idling sounds questionable [Applause] okay blew the transmission fluid out and ram it has an oil pressure gauge and it's reading nothing the valve train sounds loud so i think before i run it any longer i at least want to make sure that the oil pressure gauge is hooked up you know if it's zero we're gonna have to figure something out but a little suspicious and the plot thickens here because here's our oil sender line and unless it's plugged which i doubt it is i've never seen that happen before it's a mechanical gauge that goes right into the block and i'm not seeing any oil on it so you know i think what i want to do is pull the distributor out i'm not sure but it seems like most all engines the oil pump drive is attached to the distributor and it's driven by the cam at least on all the fords that's kind of how it works so i assume this is the same way so we're going to just pull that out and see if we can't prime the oil pump or do something because or if the oil pump driveshaft is just outright missing or what happened with this thing like i said someone's been around it in the recent past but it's hard telling but uh seems to run good it'll light right off but you know not having any oil pressure makes it pretty much a boat anchor all right so i've made a mark on the distributor body down to the engine and then i've made a mark across from the rotor so we can get everything lined up without having to try all that hard as long as we don't roll the engine over with the distributor out but up and out she goes maybe kinda sorta struggling with one hand so there we go there's your oil pump drive on the bottom of your distributor and then your gear that engages your cam everything always gets parked for a reason and so i basically made myself up a little chrysler style oil pump driver tool it's basically a flathead screwdriver i just cut the end off of as you can see there maybe maybe you can't see come on one hand there we go so just something to get down there and engage the oil pump or whatever and spin it now it's taken quite a bit of rpm to see any oil going up through the sender so either it has a big leak you know it's definitely got the oil pump pickup attached that was my first thought maybe it fell down in but that doesn't seem to be the issue i don't know the oil pump could be fubar and sometimes the oil pump bypass spring will get stuck open as well but if i can snake this back in here with one hand look at all this pneumatic tubing they used for fuel liner someone did at some point you can see the pickup kind of moving it's that a clear line there right below that connector that goes basically right behind the connector and snakes around up into the cab if i spin it really hard you can see it move now without an engine rotating there should be a significant amount of resistance i shouldn't be able to gun it quite like that and so there's something wrong with the oil pump or the bearings either way you know there's something pretty suspicious going on here that's probably why this thing got parked all right my friends i think that's gonna do it for me today what do you guys think is wrong personally you know there's something from my perspective i think there's something going on with the oil pump i looked at the odometer it has 155 000 while has 55 000 we know it's at least 155 000 could be two or three hundred and fifty five thousand hard talon but i'm pretty sure these amc's use an oil pump that's like a gear style much like a chevrolet and they're a lot more prone to wearing out and causing oil pressure issues it's not a pickup issue because if i spin the drill fast enough you know we're getting oil up and around and it doesn't sound like a knock although we can hear a noise like you know knocking like a jehovah's witness but it's in time with the valve train so to me it's much more likely just lifters not getting any oils it's sitting there with no oil pressure at idle speeds so you know could be a bad oil pump but you know how that goes a bad oil pump means someone probably drove it on a bad oil pump and now it's about everything else which came first chicken or the egg who knows but uh i'm awful tempted to throw some very very thick oil in here and see if we can get any oil pressure out of the thing it ran pretty clean and it idled pretty clean surprisingly especially given the carburetor and everything else so i don't know you know what do you guys think we should do with a thing i'll have to do some thinking myself i'll see you for the next one at least you can always rely on the fords around here to get some work done you

Channel: ThunderHead289

Views: 146,040

Keywords: vice grip garage, vgg, junkyard digs, dylan mccool, will it run, revival, deboss garage, abandoned cars, junkyard cars

Id: edJii141j18

Length: 26min 35sec (1595 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 17 2021