1942 Farmall H Memorial Restoration: Radiator & Worm Gear Installation

[Music] hey guys how's everybody doing today is uh august i don't know eighth something like that seventh eighth i know it's sunday but um anyways i haven't uh haven't been posting videos for a while um i'll touch on that in a different video that i'm gonna do but today we're gonna and i i want to apologize for that um it's just it's i'll talk about it in another video um it's just it's not it's not related to tractors so i do apologize for not posting any videos but in the video that i'm gonna put up about what's been going on you guys will understand so anyways um we got the radiator back for the h from hermantown radiator glenn did a great job on it it's got a brand new core in it and we put new studs in the bottom new mount studs with anti-seize on them and we also have new rubber mount um i guess you could call these vibration dampeners really is what they are they're like a rubber um they're pretty thick probably at least a quarter inch they're just to insulate the bottom of the radiator tank so that they don't so it doesn't wear on the the bolster here and wear a hole through the bottom of the tank or damage the tank so um let's see what else so we're going to get the radiator put in i finished up the oil pressure gauge line and i also finished up the line for the air cleaner if you can see it here basically what i had to do um mike from mike's farm all sent me a replacement fitting for down in the back of the head but the problem was my line the fittings on my line were were all goofed up to so i ended up converting it over from a let's see it would have been a 3 8 line to a 5 16 line which is going to be fine because it's just a breather it's nothing it's not carrying any oil or anything so it's just a breather tube basically so got that line finished up we've got the the oil gauge line finished up so that runs down through the oil pressure sensor that i have installed instead of the the light to activate the alternator the charging circuit in the alternator or i should say excite the charging circuit in the alternator and then that goes down to the bottom of the block here remember this fitting and this portion of the line is a lot easier to get in without the frame rail in place so i would highly recommend doing that before the frame rail's in place so we've also got the temperature sensor the thermostat temperature sensor in place so we're looking good and once the radiator is in we can put the steering shaft in the front section we can't put it in the rear section yet because the tank won't go in with the rear section of the steering shaft in place but in order to put the radiator in i think i'm going to [Music] let's see i'll probably pull the front rims and tires off again i know this will be the third time but it'll just give me a lot more room to get up in here without them on so that's what i'm gonna do with that so um the seat we're still working on cody a friend of ours in the in the club dropped off some carbide bits so i've got one of the holes slotted the other one here still needs a little work but this one just needs to be opened up a tad bit more for it to fit properly so once we get those slotted the seat can go back together and on the tractor and then it's just a matter of painting the tin work and putting a mag together at rudy's and that's it so let me uh let me get the front wheels and tires off this thing and then we'll start setting the radiator in place uh the radiator can be a pain in the butt if you've seen my video on the farm all m when we put the radiator back in that i don't know if i covered it but you'll see it's it's not the uh not the best design but it's what we have to work with so stay tuned going to have to pull the drain the drain cap off the bottom here so give me a moment okay let's start from this side [Music] [Music] okay getting there so we got to slide the hose farther on the bottom side here and put a couple clamps on there but if you guys can see so the studs yeah you can't really see let me grab a let me grab a light okay so the studs come through the bolster there's one here and there's one on the opposite side but there's no access hole to get to the stud here so basically what you have to do is try to get the spring and washer on the bottom and then get the nut on but you have to put tension on the spring in order to get the nut on so that's the most challenging part and you can't push directly from the bottom because there's no access hole so it's it's above this ledge if you can see it here it's hard to do with with the light where it is but see that that ledge there sorry i'm kind of shaking holding the camera but that's that's a a difficult spot to get to well it sounds like we got rain coming in but um we'll get it we got it on the m we'll get it on the age so we got to get the uh the radiator shroud tightened down first and then we'll work on the studs on the bottom i like to leave everything loose until we get that shroud tightened up so all right let's get that shroud going and we'll go from there okay guys we got the radiator in i'm not sure if you can see that up in there probably not with the light now that's falling but the stud comes through right this light is not working with me here so the stud comes through right here i i installed a thick washer a large thick fender washer underneath the spring then i put the spring on and there's another flat washer and a nyloc nut and i turn it up almost all the way until the spring is compressed fully but then i back it off a few turns so that there's some some give there you know because the front end bounces around a lot you don't want the radiator mounted completely solid because it will uh it will cause a lot of cracking issues with the solder joints and everything in the radiator so it's better if you have it where the springs can have a little bit of a give to them plus you've got the rubber cushions underneath if you guys can see in there so we've got the hose clamps in place radiator shrouds in place so there's a through bolt on the front here or on the bottom side and then on the top where the support bracket bolts to the front of this thermostat housing it goes to the inside and then a bolt comes through each side that's a little bit tricky to get on the other side when the alternator is in place but radiators in i started to install the the new steering worm shaft but i'm having a problem with see now this thing should just turn should just turn in thread into the sector gear with the worm gear but it's not it it locks up on the on the sector gear and will not turn any further in and i can't figure out why so i mean i've tried i installed the u-joint here i tried putting you know the screwdriver through the the roll pin hole on the u-joint and turning everything in but what it does instead of threading the the worm shaft into the sector is it turns the sector gear and the front tricycle front end and the shaft stays in place so i'm not sure what is going on here but it should just turn right in so i got a couple a couple questions out on some facebook groups and we'll see if i get any good answers but we're kind of stuck right now um yeah i don't know until we uh until we figure out that worm shaft we're kind of stuck so about the only other thing we can do is finish up the seat and i'm waiting on cody's got to bring his die grinder over because these carbide bits do not work in my die grinder because you need a a die grinder with a chuck on it to use these carbide bits so we're waiting on him to bring that over and about all we can really do is finish the the wiring on the light switch and mount the lights but in order to mount the lights these spacers need to be cut in half because they're too tall for the headlight bolts that go through the bucket of the headlight so a lot of modifications here but that's part of putting things back together with new parts and aftermarket parts and and all that but we'll see what we can get for answers on the uh warm and sector gear and go from there well guys i don't uh i don't know what's going on here but i do know one thing the worm shaft is hitting the new bushing inside here and coming to a dead stop so that tells me one thing that this bushing needs to be reamed unfortunately i do not have a reamer this size because that's probably oh at least uh probably a one inch id bushing and it shouldn't have to be reamed i don't think because it's a split bushing so it you know it comes together on one side and there's a split all the way down so that when you install it it actually you know it's almost like a a split collar so when you install it it slides in and comes together as you in slot as you slide it in so i don't know this thing is not i mean it is at a dead stop and i removed the sector gear up top to see if maybe that was causing some binding issues and it's it's not sliding into this bushing so whatever it is it's either the bushing has to be reamed or something but i'm kind of at a loss here so i'm i'm gonna do some more research and see what i can find out all right okay guys well it's a day later and after doing a quite a bit of research i found that when people have replaced all the bushings in these bolsters sometimes they have to ream or hone the bushing for the worm gear shaft and what i did was i used a brake cylinder hone which is just a small hone just like this and i just gently honed it you know i kept trying to test fit the shaft hone it out a little bit more test fit the shaft it was kind of a back and forth deal until i was able to get it to where it was it would slide in with very little persuasion but not not too much pounding with a hammer so i'm just going to use this screwdriver here and you can see with pretty minimal effort i can turn the front wheels just using the screwdriver in the shaft so and there's zero play maybe just a a tiny bit not much at all so that's great we shouldn't have any death wobble going down the road i am going to get corn head grease and pack the top of this with corn head grease originally it was supposed to run in 90 way gear oil but i like to use grease just because it doesn't run as much if there is a leak somewhere so i'll pack that with grease when i get some and then let's see about the only thing else we can do is finish up the seat and the headlight wiring get that all taken care of and then it's time for tin work so let's uh let's stop there and um i guess i'll see you in the next video so thanks for watching and wrenching with me and stay tuned for the next one which will probably be the seat and or headlight wiring so stay tuned thanks for watching guys we'll see you later you

Channel: Kenny Kizzle Rusty Nutz Ranch

Views: 4,655

Rating: 4.9666667 out of 5

Keywords: Farmall H, International Harvester, Radiator, Antique, Vintage, Classic, Tractor, Equipment, Machinery, Agriculture, Farming, History, Allis Chalmers, JI Case, John Deere, Minneapolis Moline, Oliver, Steam, Diesel, Gasoline, Engine, Motor, Restoration, Repair, Mechanic, DIY, Suicide, GofundMe, Fundraiser

Id: aewEE6TF7mA

Length: 16min 29sec (989 seconds)

Published: Wed Aug 12 2020