12v Cummins Chinese made P7100 P-Pump Replica - Let's disassmble and compare to Bosch

so you've heard of taking your work with you on vacation usually that requires like a laptop or you know a notebook or something like that I've actually brought my work with me on vacation since we had a family trip scheduled and we're up here at Moon Lake in Utah I've brought along with me a p 7100 pump but it is a Chinese replica pump um I ordered it because I don't have a regular p700 pump ready to go it's at the build shop right now so I thought you know what I couldn't find any YouTube videos of anybody reviewing the Chinese pump to see what the differences are if it looks like it has any quality to it if it's worth it at all and so I'm going to give a real breakdown of what I find in it I'm going to be doing delivery Valves and Governor Springs and a couple other things so in the disassembly as I'm taking it apart I'm going to show you guys what I see and uh just enjoy nature what better place to take apart a pump and do some work than having the scenery with me I've got a camp trailer here and all the tools I need so let's get to it so these are the tools that I have for this job some ratchets basic socket set some wrenches this of course is a specialty tool this is for taking out the delivery valve holders this is a Snap-On but you can get them on Amazon pretty cheap and then this is for setting the timing which we probably won't use yet but I may put that in there to check the cam profile while I have it apart um shouldn't take anything complicated here but I'm going to go through uh one by one and show you the steps of uh the different things that I'm going to do to this pump let's start by just looking it over it came out of the box just like this of course it has this uh tag there that we know is not accurate uh Bosch didn't make these pumps in Germany it's not made by Bosch but they decided to put that tag on there anyways there's another one on the rear section first things I notice are of course if you have a Dodge it's missing the inserts that uh that adapt it down to I think it's an M8 1.25 to allow you to bolt the side bracket onto it let me see if I have that yeah to attach the bracket of course you need um a spot to put those bolts however this goes yeah like that so I don't know where to get those inserts uh maybe someone can tell me in the comments but I'm gonna have to find those I did extract them from my other pump and it was a huge pain so that's one thing right off the bat is that needs to be dealt with I don't even know if that one's threaded that one appears to not be threaded so you have two spots to put that I don't know what I'm gonna do about that um to attach that aside from that um I'm looking at the Fasteners and trying to compare those to the Fasteners on a Bosch brand p-pump governor spring Port uses a giant Flathead opening as a instead of the 24 millimeter cap that they have on the the Bosch pump I did go through and break a few of these things loose so I wouldn't be struggling to open them on camera but I have not so far have not taken this apart it looks like it comes shipped uh not at top dead center but that looks like a nice piece no problems there can't see inside there but I will roll it over instead of the top dead at some point um it does have the shut off solenoid lever and the throttle lever both come with it the tarliness is a little bit stiff it has really good spring back with no springs no external Springs so I don't know if that's something different every Bosch pump I've ever uh throttled feels really really loose and it moves freely and you have to have external Springs to get it back to idle uh this bracket looks really similar the idle stop set screw looks uh very different but it's not bad it looks like it'd be really easy to adjust compared to the Bosch one looking at all the types of screws and fasteners um these are a five point head so it's not a Torx which I thought it was so I don't know how I'm gonna get those out luckily I don't have too many of them to get out but that is one two three four five yep that is five-sided so you have to have a special socket for that uh it's nice these are there's no security um or snap-off screws on these so you have a 10 mil 10 mil and then those are both those same five-sided uh star bit Fasteners um the AFC housing is a 10 mil 10 mil 8 mil 8 mil so that's nice they obviously know you're gonna get in there and mess with it anyway so they make it easy for you uh this is a security bit five-sided so that's gonna be really hard to get out I want to definitely want to swap that out because I'll be adjusting my star wheel frequently and then the smoke screw has a little bit different setup on it too which is nice because I'm sure they know you're gonna mess with this stuff so they leave it open for you to adjust it right off the bat coming onto the front we have our rat cap I'm not sure I didn't loosen that one yet I'm not sure if that's the same depth as a Mac cap but I will be comparing it versus a matte cap and then replacing it if not it does come with a nut which is very nice and then it comes with this protective cover on it all this stuff on the front looks very similar to a Bosch I mean so far it looks nice it's got the casting on it they've got Bosch tags which we know are not accurate it's got some part numbers on the governor housing it's probably just uh you know castings whether they you know got the Bosch original casting machines or whether they just recast it I'm not sure but the casting itself doesn't look bad it's coming around to this side looking straight on at the back looks pretty normal pretty standard um coming onto this side it does come with a an inlet feed fitting and it does come with a return banjo for the return line the casting the Machining doesn't look bad at all these are all machined how they're supposed to be and what was the other thing there's one thing I saw looks like the Machining right here isn't perfect there's a little lip right there that's not bad but I mean it just shows the you know not 100 quality looks like the casting is a little bit rough in some spots but I doubt that's anything that will become a problem as far as the uh the drivability of this part let's go ahead and pull this AFC housing off a couple of 10 mil bolts here all right so looking inside here it looks like the foot looks pretty normal compared to what I'm used to seeing Focus there we go I'm going to tear this apart and look at the spring and the travel and all that stuff um of course if you guys know anything about modifying these um usually you take about three to five millimeters off of this until you get more rack travel and then there's a washer behind the spring inside of there that you can modify and you can modify the spring and that gives full travel in the AFC housing and of course we have the uh fuel plate right here so let's take that out and look guys I assume it's going to be a standard fuel plate profile okay there's the fuel plate I think someone probably knows better than me but that looks like a standard profile from what I can tell either way probably not what we want so we'll be changing that out as well have a look down in there it looks pretty p-pumpish to me see if the rack moves freely looks pretty good pull this off cool rack appears to travel really freely so that's all good let's see what the uh there's the shut off does its job and then the throttle is doing its job so all that stuff seems to work well um next thing uh let's actually let's do the delivery valves first that'll be easy and then we'll get into the governor Springs okay real quick before I do the delivery valves I just wanted to go through a couple of these fittings on here this of course is the fuel feed Inlet this is an oil Passage uh since since we have a 24 valve p-pump swap we're gonna feed oil from this side and then it needs a restrictor I think uh 0.07 is what I was told um let's come around to this side this is the main oil supply for a 12 valve or I guess other applications and it's actually built in the uh the oil feed line has a restrictor in the casting of the pump so that's nice so far this looks very bosch-like everything seems to line up it's cool that they give you a fitting to come with it that is very nice and then that is the um fuel return back to the um back to the fuel tank and it comes with these banjos which is which is nice um so that stuff is all in the normal location let's go ahead and move on to the delivery valves it's very therapeutic working inside of a camping trailer up in the mountains during a rainstorm can't really be outside recreating right now so why not take a part of p-pump okay this is a very nice socket super handy I don't know if there's a part number on it there you go there's the part number sp503 if you want to buy this from Snap-on it is a uh p-pump delivery valve removal socket so um like I told you guys I'd already gone through and loosened all these they weren't super tight but they weren't loose at all so looked like they did a good job with that that all looks pretty good in there looks like a nice piece first things first we've got our spring and the hat that does look different in one second I'll get out a I brought some stock delivery valve stuff with me with the Springs I'll get it out and compare them side by side but for now I'm just going to go through these this is the delivery valve itself there's the middle part of it um the delivery valves I have do not have that piece on top it's basically from here down is what I'm used to seeing not that thing come off the top which is kind of cool because it holds the spring right so that is kind of nice but the delivery valves I have do not use that that part now let's get the last part of the delivery valve these don't have any markings on them of what size they are but the I bought some on uh eBay and they are 191 delivery valves so that's what I'm going to put in here but I do want to make a few comparisons before I get that far now let's look inside of here these appear to be flat top I'm gonna go ahead and move the rack so you guys can see that move there you go so with rack travel you'll see those spin inside of there and that tells you that your plunger isn't seized your rack isn't seized and everything's moving how it's supposed to be so I'm going to pull all these out all together and then verify that and then what I want to see when I spin the front of this I want to make sure they all go up and down I should be able to see them travel just like you would if you're spinning over the crankshaft of an engine with all the Pistons and crankshaft and Rod bolted together so I'm going to verify all that and then I'll go through the delivery Valves and put them all back in so let me get this tore down and then we'll go from there so looking at this delivery valve piece a little bit closer it looks like there's some marks on it like Maybe for assembly or like they grabbed with vice grips or something it's low focus focus really odd looking marks on there I don't think it will affect anything but that does speak a little bit to the quality of assembly there so you can assume okay if there's marks on that is there marks on the cam in there is there marks on any of the or the plungers or anything important but like I said I'm just going through this because I haven't seen anyone do a review on these so I'm trying to be as transparent at what I see as possible I'm not promoting this I don't sell these I don't make money on these but I wanted to do an informative video because I wish someone had done that when I was searching for them and I thought if nobody's done it then I'm going to be the one to do it so that's just one of them I'll probably look at the rest of them um may not be any different quality than the the Chinese parts that I have for the replacement delivery valves which seem to work all right so nothing to be concerned about but it's something I wanted to point out all right I wanted to point out real quick while I see this they do have uh the shims underneath them I've been told when you put new delivery valves in that you don't use the shims so I'll probably leave these shims out but it is interesting that the shims come in there these these delivery valves don't have any markings on them as far as what the uh what the rating is on them but these ones that I've got these were Amazon or wish.com or swish there it is wish.com just kidding but these are 191 delivery valves I don't know exactly what the difference is I think I think it's the diameter inside that hole or the outside diameter of this piece right here but I'm not sure in fact I'm gonna take them out right now maybe I'll just uh see what the difference is see if they fit inside one another because I know it does affect the amount of flow that gets through there so I'd imagine it's a larger diameter hole for the for the fuel to flow through okay so I was wrong about these I forgot about this it is the difference between the uh copper ones and these steel I believe these are steel stainless steel they didn't stick to the magnets they must be stainless steel I was told to discard these and swap over to these so the pump uh the Chinese pump has the more modern um shims that we want so don't leave the shims out just make sure you don't use the copper shims if you have them for some reason you want to use these type of shims it's definitely an upgrade they however do not come with the delivery valves that I bought so you either need to have them or purchase some or find them somehow but I will be putting those back in with the new delivery valves okay Also regarding the delivery valves um I have three different sets this is the 191s that are from this box these are some 130 ones that were in an older pump that I had I believe that's the standard low horsepower delivery valve size and these are the ones that came in this pump I don't they don't have any markings I don't know what size they are but if I take the center of the 191 which like I said I don't know if that's different or not it does appear to fit in all these other ones so that clearly would make it not um the difference right it should I just had it in there it does fit in there and fits in there as well so that is not the difference I don't know the difference I'm not going to try and find out right now so if you know let me know in the comments what the difference is between a 191 a 181 a 131 um obviously it's not the bore of that hole I'm kind of wondering if it's the way that those flutes are cut in there that allows more fuel or what it is so let me know if you know but either way I'm putting this 191 in this pump all right now that we got that all apart you can see they're all traveling with the rack that all looks good the plungers the rack the mechanism the gear everything seems to be working that way so that's good okay so I'm going to turn this over so we can watch those plungers go up and down these are not easy to turn over as it's fighting the cam Springs but it looks like they're all moving how they're supposed to okay and I can actually use this fancy tool right here to figure out what the lift is on these so this threads in and this tool is designed for uh to set your timing with but in this case I'm going to use it to figure out my cam lift okay that's our zero point right there and then I'm gonna go till it's up on the cam lobe and see what the max travel is okay coming up on the cam it's not maxed out so that is full travel is point four so it's just off of 0.5 I mean 0.475 something like that 0.48 you wanna tell me Adam assistant that's a 0.4 that one is 22. so I'm gonna do a quick comparison of these delivery valves I forgot I actually had another set of delivery valves so these this is the one that came in the pump I don't know the size this one is a Bosch original it's a 131 see if it'll focus it has 131 stamped on the top I believe that's the smallest one that comes in the Bosch pumps this one is a 181 and then this one is the Chinese 191 which I ordered off of Amazon so this is what I am going to use um but this is just a physical comparison of them it's odd these ones are tapered at the bottom and this one is the opposite it's large on top small on bottom this one is large on bottom small on top these other two are the same small bottom large top small bottom large tops so I don't really understand what the difference is if anybody understands the physical differences and where the flow and why the numbers are different about the delivery valves I'd love to hear about it shoot me a message or leave it in the comments another difference I noticed I want to point out is the spring and I don't know that's not a valve I don't know exactly what that is but that does not get replaced with the delivery valve so I know that that doesn't affect the flow necessarily because it's not replaced but this is the Bosch original one and this is the one that came with the Chinese pump so I mean obviously you can see the difference here between the two I believe the the fuel passes through the top of both of them and they both have uh well this one's more like a banjo it looks like the fuel flows through a hole on the side and then out the top where this one's just straight through um and then the Springs I mean it's just a spring but I'm going to trust the Bosch spring over that one so I'm going to run these uh in the pump along with the Chinese 181 delivery valve maybe the fact that that has a stem on it makes up for not having the stem on the top side so the spring stays in there maybe that was the theory behind that I don't fully understand it but I'm going to run this with that which is not what it comes with it comes like this comes together with that this is um the standard Bosch Style with a standard bar style also even though this is a Chinese delivery valve it is the same style as both these original Bosch ones so this is what I'll be running that's what comes in the pump I want to take a second uh right now to thank the sponsor of this video it's me I don't have sponsors this is a small Channel without any Financial backing so I really appreciate you guys support if you're watching this please like And subscribe I do have a lot of drift related viewers and content but I'm hoping to Branch out and do some other stuff obviously this is a diesel related video for this p-pump and I'm hoping to uh to get a lot of viewers that do that stuff I have a whole specific um build on my Cummins in the Ford I call it the four-door Cummins project and so I'll link that up here if you guys want to follow that build and stuff but that's what this pump is for it's for my famines build I don't like calling phones I call it four-door comments everyone says summons but it is a 08 Ford with a Cummins uh swap in it all that stuff will be linked up up above one thing about this whole whole deal with this pump is uh I was looking for someone else that made a video about this I would love that I wouldn't have hadn't made this video I would just go buy the pump knowing what I was getting into but I don't and so I wanted to do it go through the process and then put that out there for uh for anybody else that's trying to find the same information as me one thing that I wish I could do but I can't I don't have the time where the resources to buy multiple pumps but is to take the pump right out of the box to a pump shop have it tested flow tested all that stuff see what the Professional Pump Builders say about that pump if they like it or not obviously they're probably going to be biased because they want to sell their own pumps but find someone on bias do it that way I don't think that's realistic to do so I'm doing the best I can but I obviously I'm putting delivery valves I'm putting Governor Springs I'm doing all that modification right off the bat I don't want to have to do it in the truck so sorry guys that I can't do all that stuff to show you but I'm doing the best I can to show you what I can while I'm doing it back to the video Let's Go All Right Next up let's uh dig into this AFC housing here um first things first I want to take the back cover off Alex normal is just casting and all that stuff the diaphragm the Bosch ones I believe are blue diaphragms um it looks like someone's been in here because there's some marks there um it doesn't look super clean things I saw on the uh the other part it looks like someone's been grabbing it with vice grips maybe that's just how they assemble it but uh that's just the first thing I noticed I'm going to go ahead and take the diaphragm apart and uh this piece is gonna be a two-handed job and then see uh see what we got behind there so it looks like I do actually have to grab it the same way they did I don't know why they don't just use a normal nut on here but uh okay there's the washer there's the diaphragm diaphragm does feel a little bit cheap to me maybe not but it doesn't look nearly as nice as the Bosch diaphragm makes me wonder if you could like buy certain Bosch Parts like that and put them in here to make it just a little bit nicer of a pump um it just it looks like this has been used looks like it's been around that's kind of weird but one of the mods you can do on these is you uh um you get a washer that doesn't have that cup to it because what happens is as this cup travels inside of there and this is all dirty as this travels inside of there it'll actually bottom out right there can see that see how that bottoms out before that foot reaches full travel so that's full travel right there but if you tighten this up that's Max travel with that washer but for example let's pretend it was a flat washer like this and that was on the bottom side you get full travel and so that's exactly why when you watch AFC mod videos they'll tell you to get a flat washer where this one goes is so you don't have that issue and then that becomes your limiting factor you can actually take this piece off which we'll do in a second and then you can cut three to five millimeters off of there I don't know the exact measurement but I usually cut more than you need to because it's not necessary to have it all there and then you'll get even more travel um and that's how you max out the AFC and then the one other thing you have inside of here is your AFC spring right there you can actually get softer springs for this which is it kind of depends on your turbo and different stuff like that um but the benefit to that is if you get Max travel and the spring compresses you actually get spring bind if we were to compress the spring to all the coils are touching and then measure it um a uh the spring they sell aftermarket you would be able to compress it and it would be a shorter spring under all coil bind and I think that's the benefit of doing it that way is you get more travel so the spring bind doesn't create a rack or sorry AFC housing travel restriction um like covid-19 so to get this foot out we have to take this out that'll allow us to remove that rod and the rest of it will come apart and then we can trim that foot there we go it's got an o-ring in there looks like it was doing a pretty good job of stealing because it was hard to get out okay that comes out and this foot comes out it's weird these these almost look like old Bosch Parts instead of like uh new castings really wondering how they're making these things and that comes out I mean you just look at that it looks like it's Rusty this is brand new and it looks like it's been in there for years so I don't know exactly what I'm dealing with but everything was free to move and it was working so I don't know how bad it is or maybe this has been sitting in a box for years and there's a little bit of moisture in there um but I mean overall it looks like they're doing a pretty good job of replicating it I'm pretty impressed um with all this stuff but none of that goes to lent or lends itself to how well it runs so I'll have to wait and find out how that all works but the housing itself looks good all that other stuff looks good this is the star wheel that people talk about when you get this piece out on top you can actually use a screwdriver just like you would with a drum brake um it's got a spring and a spring and then you just you know go back and forth back and forth and basically that'll be like a coilover suspension where it raises or lowers that spring on a threaded collar and that adds more or less spring tension that spring tension is fighting the boost pressure coming in so as boost comes in on the back of the diaphragm it's going to push that foot and that's when you get your rack travels under boost so under 30 or 40 pounds of boost it's gonna smack it's going to max out on that side you'll get full fueling from your AFC housing which will allow the rack to travel inside of there if you want your Boost to to fuel if you want your fueling to come on slower with Boost you're going to put more tension on that spring so it requires more boost to add Fuel and that's basically the whole idea with the star wheel and the spring is uh controlling how boost how fuel ramps in compared to uh boost pressure but I'm going to move on this looks all pretty good other than this diaphragm I'll probably run run to run it to start with because the AFC housing and the diaphragm are really easy to get too with the pump on the truck so I'm going to run it just as it comes like this aside from the mods I was talking about and see how it works to start out with worst case I can just grab one of my my other AFC that I've got here I can just toss this on there and modify them but you can see the difference here this one has an orange um I don't want to mix these parts up this one has an orange diaphragm this was actually a from a reman pump that I got from O'Reilly and uh it used I think it used all Bosch components for the rebuild but yeah that's been cut you can see if you compare those two I don't know if you can tell but that one's definitely shorter I already cut that one the diaphragm is still in good shape and then I have the washer and spring mod already done on this one so I might steal some parts from here let me open that up so you can see it that washer I believe I took the original washer and I just cut it so it didn't have the lip on it that would go like that but I just want to show that comparison the housings look really similar even the casting marks they have 218 it looks like it came out of the same Foundry that's wild so now I've got my timing pin out and I'm going to spin it over till I find uh top dead on here and then I want to see what the measurement is at top dead on this pump so I can try and figure out what the original timing pin on this pump is set to and as far as degrees go um and I'm going to do that the reverse Way by locking top dead taking a measurement and then going to the chart and then seeing what that measurement equates to on the chart assuming this is a 160 to 180 cam type pump so the way I do that I've got this set to zero so I'm going to start spinning this over and it's going to start coming up on the cam here's my foot for you there it goes it's coming up actually that was perfect there's the timing pin um there it is let's put that in there make sure it locks in there we go that pin just pushed in so that's locked in at let's get our measurement here so that's one two 2.2526 so so let me read this is we're where's my finger okay on that dial come on we've gone assuming we start at zero which we did we've gone one two you see we're just past two right there but not quite to 2.5 so we would count this out 2.2.05 2.1 2.15 2.2 2.25 2.26 2.27 2.28 and then of course there'll be 2.29 2.3 so we are at 2.28 on our uh cam lift so I'm going to write that down and then go uh go look at the chart but for now since I got that number I'm going to pull this timing pin back out oh there's some load on it there we go and then this thing gets stored by just being flipped around backwards and put back in there so as long as that's flipped around you know you're not uh you're gonna break those plastic teeth off uh where's the cap there's the cap for it and when you pull this out on the truck oil is going to come out of it for sure because the oil level of your pump and the way this is tilted that's going to be full of oil in the governor housing so just be ready for that of course I don't want to forget about this so I'm gonna snug it up right now there we go and on to the next part so this tool right here is actually sold by Snap-on this gauge was not sold by Snap-on so the way it breaks down I actually looked it up on their website this uh blue point tool right here I think was like 35 or 40 dollars the socket was also part of the kit the kit was 350 I didn't buy the kit I bought the socket for maybe 30 or 40 and then I bought this for maybe 50 or 60. so it was under 100 bucks for this and that however the Snap-on dial indicator was 250 dollars and that's what made it I think 350 330 or 350 for the whole set was there a dial indicator and I thought well I can get a dial indicator for cheap like and they're not going to be inaccurate like a dial indicator is pretty solid so what I did have to do is build this extension right here off the bottom and we actually ended up using a piece of welding wire TIG wire I balled the end and then ground it flat and then uh that's how I was able to to make that work and we were actually able to end up just super gluing it together which sounds rickety but if all the tension is always that way and there's no play in it it works just fine and it saved me 200 so to me that's worth it I'll show you how we did it here so someone might make a that piece on the very bottom is threaded right The Joint between this welding wire and that is threaded so if you get the right adapter you could thread it in there and have the right length my buddy has this exact tool from Snap-on so I was like hey can you send me the measurement of what I need from from the end of this to the end of his tool and so he sent me that measurement and I built this piece pretty dang close to the same measurement the tig Rod was able to just slip in there and so I just put a little dab of Super Glue slipped it in there got that to work this wasn't the right diameter so I wrapped some electrical tape I'm sure there's a better way to do that but every time I check it I make sure there's no slop when I crank this down and check it all I make sure there's no slop so that the the gauge will read accurately and it has not failed me yet so that's how you can uh that's how you can save some money doing it this way without having to buy the 200 Snap-on dial indicator these are both sold by Blue Point this is the socket SP 500503 sp5002 on this one so I'm trying to find Max racks Max rack travel in here this is with the shutoff valve completely shut so when you turn the key and start the truck it's going to go like that so this is the rack that's the rack travel there right so that's shut off so when you start it's going to go there and then the uh AFC foot is going to control the amount of movement so we have no AFC restriction right now all I'm looking for is Max rack travel so as we throttle up it travels forward that's the shutoff you see it shutting it off so that's going to be wide open so that won't be a restriction that's full travel forward and just to verify I'm going to hold the throttle forward and then push on the rack with a screwdriver it doesn't move so that's full rack forward travel now let's come to this side on the front that's where the rack cap is and you can see it coming out um if you look from it straight down from the top you can see I need some contrasting color there you can see the protrusion coming out of there and that's what this Max rack cap does or Mac sorry Mac rat cap they call it a Mac rat cat because it comes on some sort of a Mac Truck that uses this pump let's see if I can do this one-handed there's that so really what we want to do is make sure that there's enough travel inside with this cap threaded all the way on there that it does not limit travel of the rack which I did if we hold it about like that that's going to tell us it's close but actually verified by threading it on that it doesn't it doesn't hit I keep traveling keep traveling it does not hit that cap so that's really cool that they send you a Max travel cap with this pump because the OEM caps on the regular Cummins pumps are actually a restriction in rack travel because the the original pumps are not meant to travel that far they're restricted on their travel so this is uh that's a nice little upgrade from uh this Chinese company that that makes these pumps is it allows full rack travel so I'm pretty convinced that this thing is like about as maxed out as it's gonna get so I'm stoked on that because it didn't cost very much um to get it to this point and a lot of the stuff was already installed how it should be I'll give you guys in one second I'll go through here and give you a breakdown of what everything costs okay so I came across something else interesting um that I need to point out this is the delivery valve that I just installed uh when I went to put all these in there um the way I had the spring configuration I just showed you guys these were really stiff and hard to get in there so I could tell that there was spring bind um or at least a lot more tension than there was when I took it apart so something wasn't quite right I don't want to run it that way so I went back to square one to actually start measuring and checking what's what unfortunately I don't have any calipers here with me to take exact measurements but I don't think I necessarily need it I'm just comparing stuff um to each other these are the Springs that's the one I just put in that's the Bosch spring and that's the one that came out of there same with the hat and we already talked about how the Hat on the Bosch has that in this uh the Chinese one does not have that this also has two shims underneath the very head of it right there um which isn't necessarily relevant but all that stuff together makes this overall spring and hat taller than the other one there's that put together and there's that put together so just comparing them next to each other they are different heights so I could use that one right and that might that might solve my problem but uh I want to compare a couple other things I went back and looked at all of these delivery valves that were in there they look really dirty for being in a brand new pump but what I hadn't noticed before is this is the only one that I pulled out and inspected it does not have any Bosch markings on it that has a Bosch marking all the other ones have Bosch markings that Bosch marking is on top these Bosch markings are on the bottom so it's almost like these are recycled Bosch delivery valves or something like that but then interestingly enough these top parts of the delivery valve I wish I knew the names of these parts this first one I pulled out didn't have any markings on it this one also no markings on it but then I got to these other ones this one says 0 45. this one says 0 34. and this one says 0 45 but it's half worn off so it kind of looks like these are used parts to me they're not consistent I don't know what those numbers are but I'm sure they mean something they're not consistent um half of them like used this is a different casting than the rest of those this one has this the Bosch stamp in a different spot compared to the rest of them and so it's not consistent among all of them which makes me not trust some of this stuff right um I think what I'm going to do is use the Bosch spring with this hat try it out and see what the spring tension feels like because I still would trust this 200 000 mile Bosch spring compared to this one um just peace of mind I don't know why this I don't know I don't know if these are used I don't know what's what with them but I would rather use this match set of used Bosch Springs with that top hat which is going to give me a little bit less height overall and hopefully not cause the bind that I was getting inside of here all right so let's just compare two of these this is the one how I'm gonna run it now and this is how it was before you can see the Gap there it's definitely pushing up I actually had to put preload on it even to get the threads to grab where this one is all ready to go like it's not nearly as tall so what I'm going to do all mixed up here take that off the piece is actually stuck in there I have to pull it out with pliers I pull that out can't do it with one hand I'm going to change this spring nope correction that is the correct spring but I'm going to take the old hats which is that compared to that I'll put it on top here there we go that'll sit like that I've got to get this out of there and then put it back together I have to use needle nose pliers to dig it out of there that's all set up so just gotta balance this on top of that easy enough there we go and it threads in just perfectly same with that one it's all set ready to go all right those first three are set up I'm gonna finish doing these other three and then it's got a ton of tension on it yeah that's not great I don't know what that would cause if it would run like that if it would cause any sort of issues but I don't want to find out so I'm going to go with what is closer to uh how it felt when I took it apart so after looking at this and doing this and then realizing how stuck these were in there I had to Prime out of there pretty good with these needle nose so that tells me the the head diameter of this is a little bit bigger than what fits in the the female side in there and that's why it's getting stuck so I guess what I could do is use delivery valve holders from a OEM Bosch pump I guess if you're mixing and matching but for the for for all intents and purposes we're going to assume that you just bought this because you don't have a pump and you're not trying to save another pump so assuming you don't have these you would have to go this way use the the hats that came with it not these hats not that you would necessarily have these anyways but the springs and hats that come with us are probably just fine I could have just left it alone but I like tinkering with stuff and so I'm going to start with using Bosch Springs the Chinese hats and then my Chinese delivery valves I got no idea what's going on with this or why that is on there or if it's important of course these need to be torqued down which I'm not going to do until I'm in the truck um just like they did I usually put a mark on stuff after I torque it so I'll remember when I get to the shop and when this is bolted down and I have my torque wrench with me I'll torque them all and mark them so that I know that they're all torqued down to spec I think it's 80 something don't quote me about it I believe it's 80 something or 90 somewhere in that range to to get those tight but they're all snugged in place um the tightening felt pretty good none of them felt too too too hard or too soft the uh the O-rings went in there pretty smooth so that's all done I'm considering the delivery valve part of things done all right guys so we're back in the shop today um I'm gonna be doing the AFC mods and what I'm going to do specifically on this one is I have to trim this still I'm gonna trim this washer instead of trying to find one I'm just going to cut the lip off of that and then grind it smooth and then reassemble it and then I'm going to pressure test it so let's go ahead with that okay so I set my uh micrometer to five millimeters I'm gonna go ahead and use this end to make the mark this is just right about the middle of that X I don't know if I can do this one-handed and then I'll make my mark right there with a sharpie and of course you can just do this with a cut off wheel I'm gonna do it with a band saw you could do it with a lathe if you want to be precise but since that side never actually touches anything it's not important that it's perfectly flat or even Precision for that matter wow never mind that does not want to cut that so that's definitely not straight At All by any means but like I said it doesn't really need to be I've done this exact same thing before with the same result you think I'd get better but I haven't gotten worse but uh one thing is obviously any Burrs or anything inside there we don't want so I'm going to get a drill bit this has similar size enchant for the edges so that it can travel smooth on the uh on the finger dinger so like I said not perfectly straight but I just I literally ran a drill bit through there by hand and just spun it around and kind of chamfered it um the inside and then verify that it slides smooth on here which it does so that's good enough for me I'm gonna go ahead and put this back together this piece has to go in first and then you'll see it has that notch in there that Notch is to grab onto that pin so that needs to happen like that but then this needs to go through here so you got to kind of balance all three of them together like that and that goes in there of course that's going to go like we had it before I'm not going to push that O-ring in yet make sure that moves with this that's all working we know that Notch is in there down on there because it moves with that and then once that's all done oh give her one of these oh there it goes boom I'm gonna edit that part out that never happened I know what I'm doing absolutely all right and then of course this screw and I've heard arguments about this really when you when you move that when you pivot that side to side it changes like the height of the foot I don't fully understand that the videos I've watched the other guys seem to not quite understand it has something to do with the travel or the foot or something I don't understand but most guys say to put it back where it was this was about in the center everyone I've ever seen is pretty close to the center so I'm going to put that back in the center and hope that that's good enough okay that moves like it's supposed to everything's good in there and then of course if you remember this was all about gaining travel with the piece we cut off right there so now we have even more travel than before enough so that this washer will hit there and everything is basically maxed out um travel wise so I put this washer back on this is the washer that we need to modify and so we can actually take some measurements here so you see the washer hits there's a light the washer hits right there since it's a cupped washer so we're going to make it flat but I actually want to measure how much we gain so if we look right there let's take a measurement between this point just so we can verify where we're actually at so we'll go with that so that's full travel right now 10.16 millimeters and then let me measure this 6.28 so we should gain uh probably about five millimeters of travel so that 10.16 should go down to like 5.1 or so okay so I modified this washer the thing I like about this washer is that it's round on top so it's not going to dig in and cut the uh the edge of that so I wanted to use the original washer and I literally just trim it down and then uh wire wheel The Edge so there's no sharp sharp spots and then I think it's going to work pretty well and if you remember we measured before uh six point something I don't remember you guys will know because you're watching the video and now we're down to 1.65 so we removed about five millimeters off of that so that being the case like I said I think will be about five millimeters shorter here should be about five point something once I bolt that all together okay now with it all bolted together let's see what our full travel is here boom you see our washers maxed out down there still got a little bit of a gap so I could have cut less off of there but there's no reason not to that I can think of zeroed out let's see where we're at nope I need to hold that in there 5.62 how about that we gained five millimeters of not rack travel well it really is rack travel but AFC housing five millimeters more that should equate to five millimeter rack travel I'm going to do an air test which basically simulates when the when the vehicle hits the Boost and pressurizes this chamber it's going to move that foot in and out that's the whole idea the whole principle behind this AFC housing the diaphragm the spring the smoke screw everything is set on adjusting um the movement of the foot and since we cut that we got full travel of the foot and since we modified the washer that allows the foot to get full travel inside of here so now we're going to test it with simulated boost or shop air so let's see what happens it looks like it's traveling like it should I think we're getting that full travel which just leaves five millimeters just like we measured on the bench so we're good to go I'm going to put the AFC back on and then move on to the governor Springs so I decided for now I'm going to put it together with no fuel plate in it um that's going to allow for maximum fueling I'm just doing that for testing ultimately I do want a fuel plate but I'll make that decision a little bit down the road so in order to get to the gov Springs we're going to take out this safety wire which I do the same thing on the Bosch pumps also take the safety wire off all right so in order to get the um governor spring what would you call that cover we gotta take off this uh what do you call that how you say thing okay where's the thing oh this isn't good uh so there's supposed to be a Woodruff key in there right there and it appears that it is non-existent I don't see it inside there and I don't see it on there so and I don't I didn't see it fall out just now so look we have an extra but uh that's another thing that we just found is there's no Woodruff key I'm gonna check this one also anyways we had to pull this off to get this off can't think of the names of all these things this is I guess the governor spring cap so this is how we get to the gup Springs inside here we'll rotate the pump over until we see this the spring hat and then we can access the governor Springs from there so we want to roll this over until we get until we see the Springs come into view that's cool hat right there a little bit more perfect that gives us good access to uh to take it off and so then there's a couple ways to do this I'm not gonna make a whole video about changing these there's plenty of videos on how to do gov Springs but basically you can take a screwdriver modify it to grab both sides of it I usually use a screwdriver and kind of painfully work my way around um the other thing you want to do is some guys say to count turns to take it off or you actually measure the distance from the very top of this to the very top of the center post to how far down that uh that nut is if you want to call that a nut and then match that that's going to affect your idle depending on what Springs you have the the tension you put on the springs that nut is going to affect your uh your startup and idle I found some small needle nose pliers that fit perfectly in there I'm going to use those to take this off and then once I get there do that I've been told make sure you use a magnet because you absolutely don't want this falling in once it's off so we'll take that to the side take this piece off kind of have to wiggle it free the magnet for all this stuff get that out and then take out the spring pack these look like normal uh these look like normal Springs that would come out of a Bosch pump they don't like used like some of the other parts and then there's a bunch of shims in there which Bosch pumps also have so there's a there's a quick snapshot of everything that came out of there a whole bunch of shims all different stuff what I'm really wondering is if they actually go through and balance these pumps before they ship them out or if they just kind of put them together that's kind of why I wish I would have started this and ran it without the gov Springs but I really didn't want to pull the pump apart twice so I'm gonna go ahead and do the gov Springs now while I have it out so this is what comes out of it it's got a medium spring well small medium and the large spring this is the aftermarket gov kit you have a small small medium and then we reuse this which is the idle and startup spring so we'll move that over to there this is for 4K this is for 3K obviously use all of them for 4K if you want 3K and not 4K you leave that one to the side I like to turn it up all the way so we're gonna stack all these Springs together put the idle spring on this is the bottom hat now this is a aftermarket bottom hat and slip it in there like that and then this is the original piece the original top hat that goes back in there and then the same with this piece and that's it I'll tighten that back up to the spec I measured and then we're done we got that all wrapped up um I got the fuel feed fitting in I just wanted to go through and show this stuff real quick so this is really hard to break loose but after I got the safety screw out it's just a eight millimeter just like the Bosch is this is the star wheel cap and of course you can reach in there and adjust the star wheel with a screwdriver this is a pan not a screwdriver but you just go that way or that way just like you would with a brake drum so I'll mess with that once I get it on the truck and then you got the smoke screw right here comes with this cap on it looks like you could safety wire that cap which is kind of nice and then you can loosen that 10 mil I'll bet that's a three I think that's a three mil Allen and then you can just run that in or run it out and basically all it does is put tension on the spring which will move that foot inside of there and allow you to set your pre-boost fuel um but there's plenty of videos about that I'm not going to go into detail on all that stuff but I think that's it so far so good on all that I'm gonna put this back together and install it on the truck and I'll give you guys an overview once it's running all right guys let's talk about what I paid for all this stuff first up is the injection pump I found this on Amazon I was very impressed with how quickly it arrived the United States it did ship directly from China for this pump I paid 972.54 cents next up are the 191 delivery valves as you guys know there's several types of delivery valves available on the market I chose 181s for my particular application and I paid 31.96 I think all p-pumps would benefit from an increase in available RPM by replacing the governor Springs I haven't found any reason to buy expensive Governor Springs I've used these in the past so I decided to go ahead and install these on this application for these Governor Springs I paid 24.66 looking around there seems to be various sellers offering these pumps for sale on Amazon and eBay here's a couple examples I found recently it's the summer of 2023 just for reference and it looks like anything you find is about a thousand dollars now let's get back to the video I finally got the uh pump installed today it fits pretty nicely everything looks good like I said this is a 24 valve swap um in a Ford so you see the lines going over and all that stuff and uh yeah so it fit nicely the gear went on great on the front uh everything lines up like it should and it worked out worked out great I did have to buy the inserts for the throttle bracket so that there was M8 threads on the side um I was only able to get two of them in there and I was actually able to hammer an M6 nut into the third one I literally just wedged it in there and used a uh a third nut and bolt and I think it'll hold pretty well but uh the guy The Pump Shop told me two two bolts should be sufficient for that I still wanted to do three but I think two would be fine especially considering the small amount of load that's on there uh it started right up I ran it I set this at 18 degrees um timing and then I was just messing with the star wheel and the smoke screw and after making some final adjustments we hit the road for a 1500 mile Journey round trip from Salt Lake to Southern California I wanted to report that the truck drove really well uh we got pretty good fuel economy and it didn't smoke excessively I was able to dial in the Smoke screw and the star wheel to get Optimal Performance I'm really impressed with how well this pump does and 10 out of 10 I would buy again of course the one thing we don't know is the longevity since we haven't done more than 1500 miles of driving in it yet but I would expect to see this thing last quite a while if anything changes of course I'll post in the future but most of you will probably be watching this video looking for answers at the end of it and that's what I've got 1500 miles worth of testing take that for what it's worth thanks for watching guys if you haven't yet please go check out the rest of my channel like subscribe leave a comment that really helps me out and I hope this video was helpful for you

Channel: Brandon Wicknick

Views: 12,549

Keywords: usmc, usaf, BWicknick, Hoonigan, ford cummins, p pump, p7100, injection pump, diesel, dave sparks, sparks motors, the muscle, diesel dave, dave kiley, heavy d, cummins, 12 valve, 24 valve, 6bt, 4bt, delivery valve, governor springs, injector, wmo, wvo, afc hosuing, afc live, smoke screw, star wheel, cummings, afc foot, timing, plunger, piston, whistlin diesel, whistilin diesel, ddp, dpp, dap, diesel auto power, pdd, power driven diesel

Id: 96g_jkXj3ds

Length: 59min 39sec (3579 seconds)

Published: Wed Aug 23 2023