10AE Miata Timing Belt and More

hey guys welcome back okay so actually been on vacation but we just got back from Thailand and time to work on the car so we still kind of breaking the rules normally I wait till I have all the parts before I start the rest of the parts will be here today we're going to do probably should have done this a while back but we're going to go ahead and do the timing belt uh now the timing belt was done about 4 to 5,000 miles ago because it's a low mileage car that never gets driven but uh it's actually eight years old I thought it was put on in 2017 and I bought the car in 23 so I was like oh it's was only 6 years old but now it's 2024 and it was actually put on in 2016 so it's an 8-year-old belt so anyway thought about it and I was like yeah that's kind of breaking my own rules driving a car with a even though it doesn't have a lot of miles it's an old timing belt so we're going to swap it out so we talked about I don't remember if I published it I don't remember anyway we've been having a coolant leak that's like a mystery leak and it turns out this brand new gasket is leaking between the gasket just like a tiny bit but I don't think even though that's leaking I don't think that's the only leak I'm not really sure but uh we changed pretty much the whole cooling system but we never did the heater core so we're going to swap the heater core too uh it's also ordered and supposed to be here today I think so that'll be fun hopefully we can I think you can do that without pulling the dash God I hope so cuz I really don't want to pull a dash but I want to be able to trust the car so a 25-year-old heater core that's not a good idea so either way we're changing it okay so we're going to jump into this this will be a got to Hope it'll just be a standard old rip it apart change the timing belt and water pump throw it back together we're also going to do the cam seals of course uh the front crank seal none of those leak but I mean they're old they're cheap might as well do it while you're in there tensioner idler H that's probably about it maybe a couple other little things but basically just your standard good time and built job all right let's get to it all right guys so we've been working on this taking stuff apart and I wanted to show you a couple things so the Tom belt's off we're about to get the water pump off we had to pull the heat shield and get that little bolt that holds that pipe in got that off the lower Inlet manifold thing but I want to show you something I'm not sure if this is New or Old but I think it's new so when your water pump goes bad it leaks past the rotating seal and there's a channel right here and if you look at gravity straight down look at that there's corrosion and this spot up here looks different than everything else this whole area is kind of dirty if we kind of back up and look but you'll note that one spot looks different it's like fresher or newer or different or something I'll kind of zoom in and it's right where it would be if it was leaking so I'll be curious to see if the water pump shows that what's interesting so my buddy had this car like eight years ago and he did the time and belt and water pump and I believe he did the water pump cuz like the aluminum definitely looks cleaner and less like see the aluminum there and then come down here look at the pump like you know even the stuff inside here that was inside the timing belt covers and you see what that looks like here's a good dichotomy yeah your top half of the picture is the water pump bottom half is the oil pump so I do think he changed the pump he said he did which is enough for me but uh it does appear to have been changed so okay but there's two things that make me believe the water pump was leaking now so obviously you can see this Trail he said the old water pump was leaking which if it was maybe he just didn't clean up the mess that wouldn't surprise me that's not a big deal but it happens so it could be that and it definitely looks like it was to me that looks different that looks like it's been leaking fresh so we're going to pull the pump and look inside that channel and see if there's anything in there too uh but the other thing was when I was taking this apart I checked the pulley and it actually had some play in it uh right now with a single hand oh actually I can wiggle that a little not a lot it feels kind of tight rotationally but I can actually wiggle this up and down so there is some play in the bearings which is weird because I checked that when I was doing the uh serpentine belts well I say I did maybe I didn't I thought I did or maybe I meant to maybe I meant to maybe we should say that CU I don't specifically yeah I don't know maybe I didn't check that but I sure meant to so maybe that was a Miss but anyway but two things are well one thing is a fact this has play in it which is a bad sign it needs to be replaced and it also looks like it's been leaking uh so hopefully that was our coolant leak we're still going to do the heater core anyway but now I feel better about pulling this thing down uh the rest of this like here's down here it's a little dirty but I don't think it's really leaking we're going to change it anyway there's our crankshaft keyways looking nice and good so we're going to get that cam seal uh crank seal changed we're definitely changing cam seals these were slightly wet but this valve cover used to leak and I don't think the cam seals were leaking I believe that's just oil not from a previous valve cover leaking but no big deal we'll change that I have to say just a quick one but boy it's nice that everything's clean and like in good condition cuz it's actually easy to work on which is nice uh got to love that about Miatas all right we're going to keep going all right so bringing you guys back this is a different day and I'm getting over some kind of cold or something so that's why my voice is sounding off but uh we finally got all the parts in and we're working on we're about to put this thing back together we went ahead and did the motor mounts uh see if I can zoom in a little bit so we just changed those out I don't know I don't think they're really that great I think I might buy some Mazda ones next time I bought these from Rock Auto and frankly they're a lot softer than the stock mounts so I kind of think they're going to be worse here's the stock ones they're actually not that bad they do have some tearing a little bit you can see but they don't feel that bad or look that bad anyway so let me show you the rest of the stuff we got a bunch of parts came in start over here got our heater core good stuff we'll get that swapped out there's our valve cover gasket we ordered a bunch of these let me go over this this is important here's the water pump gasket So when you buy a water pump they come like this is a Gates water pump and it comes with a gasket but these are paper and Mazda does not use paper gaskets there Mazda uses these um it's like a metal gasket with a little like it ring for an indention so anyway I knew that so I ordered these so I can put the correct gasket this particular gasket was leaking on my car I had a cheap Rock Auto gasket that was leaking like through the gasket so I ordered a felpro which is what I thought I put on it but maybe I put a cheaper one there's a felpro and then I bought this one which is a aen which is probably more like a OEM gu basket so we're probably going to use that one this is for the thermostat housing I ordered this by accident but I actually needed it so LOL here's our time time belt kit I haven't even opened that yet but hopefully all that stuff's there here's the water pump it's got the the stamp steel impeller um you guys watching this do you think there'd be a market for like you know bringing back the probably not cast but say Billet impellers that have proper machine geometry for for better water flow I think there's a market for that cuz I'm pretty tempted to make one uh anyway let me know what y'all think about that but there's our gates water pump it's new and like I said we did the motor mounts already so those are in as well we have some other parts I don't remember where they are here's some this isn't what I'm talking about but there's some seals I have some more as well I forget where they are but uh we popped the crank seal out and we're fixing pull the cam seals and change those and then start putting this thing back together one thing we did do you'll note this doesn't look beautiful but it's a lot cleaner than it was we uh there was a lot of like corrosion down here and I believe that was left over from a previous like the last time the Tim belt was done the water pump was found to be leaking but all the mess it made down here wasn't cleaned up so it looked like this water pump was leaking which maybe it was but it's hard to tell cuz it was so dirty I can't you know what I mean I don't think it was cleaned last time so this time we cleaned it up pretty decent so if it does leak again I'll know um and we also clean the head cuz this had like a oil leaks from previous valve cover leaks now that we had the timing belt off it was easy to clean all this so we got that done so yeah that's the plan we're going to pop some new cam seals in put the new crank seal in and then uh begin reassembly okay so I forgot one other thing that we purchased that we're going to replace is the fuel pump so I bought a denzo made in Japan fuel pump from an authorized vendor of denzo so I believe it's a legit pump not a knockoff now this car has a uh I think it's a wro 255 HP I think and it seems to work fine but this pump was installed in probably 2016 or 2017 so it's seven or eight years old doesn't have any miles on it but it is old um and just from a reliability standpoint I think a OEM pump is probably like a really good one is going to be more reliable uh so we're going to swap that out plus this car right now doesn't make any power so it doesn't need a big pump and uh if we ever do want to make a lot of power we'll probably I guess change the pump again but for now it's a stock car so for reliability we're swapping the pump with a new one so last little thing uh oh yeah and this gasket that's the gasket that goes on the sending unit I don't know if this is bad but I keep have this car has a faint like if you put the top up for a few days and you go open the door you can smell gas not a lot but a little same thing if you open the trunk after a few days you smell fuel so I don't know what it is but maybe it's that gasket we got to take it out to do the fuel pump so might as well swap the gasket while it's there so we bought that too but uh anyway we're about to jump back to this I'll give you guys a cool little thing we're not we're probably not going to do it on this car but I do want to mention it so I was watching a video the last couple days I forget what channel it was but this guy had a I think it was a 3,600 hpower GTR very very fast and he went to some event that he's won in the past and his car was doing really well and it looked like he would you know win the event again and then he had a problem uh something about you know crank case pressure and he blew out or what he said was he blew out his uh crankshaft seal so because he blew the seal out he couldn't race anymore and they couldn't fix it in time so he was done for the day he was out of the event somebody else won over a crank seal falling out now it's funny to me well I don't know if it's funny but let's say it's easily preventable his race team if they wanted to all they had to do was clean the boar and when you install the seal put RTV on it uh something like I probably have some like a gray yeah this Ultra gray for example this stuffs like $10 for a bottle this has a 200 PSI Shear strength which means it takes 200 lb of force to Shear one square inch of this now on a Miata this crank seal easily has you know 1 to two square in and the area here is not very big it would probably take if you glued the seal in it would probably take like 40 or 50 pounds of crank case pressure to blow that seal out so basically that's a problem that anybody building a fast car should never have cuz it's easy very easy to solve it's inexpensive you can use materials you already have it's a basically you take this bore you spray some I've already done this but you take a rag spray some like brake cleaner acetone go in there clean that bore really good to get all the oil off put some RTV on your seal I like to do the bore as well I'll go in there and take like a Q-tip and put a little bit of RTV on the board and then just take your seal press it in like normal and once that RTV sets there you go you'll never ever push one of those seals out you know if you really built like 40 or 50 lbs of crank case pressure you know you're done for the day anyway something really bad happened so anyway thought that was worth mentioning uh it's funny to see you know someone that's building Billet block have a dumb problem like that those you know there's probably three Simple Solutions to you could glue the seals in through the boore you could just smear RTV on the outside and that would still probably be enough to keep him from pushing out or like you see here you can have a piece of metal that just catches it so it physically can't push out all of those are simple easy things I'm surprised that people that run a race team that's that competitive haven't you know basically haven't done that surprises me but I did think it was interesting so I figured I'd mention it okay now we get back to work okay guys so we got most of this put back together man sorry my voice is so messed up I got a cold right now but anyway she's mostly put back together took longer than I kind of expected but I wanted to do a good job and get everything just right and it's hard to see but like all these covers and stuff not that it matters but I cleaned all that really good just since it was aart inside outside cuz this is a pretty good car so I wanted it to be nice so almost everything's hooked up here we got lower radiator hose and air intake things like that now let's get to the terrible part H so we just got the heater core out what a nightmare golly I went trying to find a video of how to do this and actually one of the videos I saw was Greg Peters struggling to do this and I was like wow that's not a good sign and I see why this is not fun H anyway we did get it only cuz I refused to give up I don't know hopefully those pipes are okay I got to I'll stick the camera in there that's the one I'm worried about hopefully it's okay that one's not so bad that one's a total pain what is that I don't know what that is that's a foam door never mind that looks weird I've never looked in there like that anyway we got the her core out we got to get those earrings off check the board that the earrings go on hopefully this yeah looks like it came with new ones good deal so we got to get this uh new heater core prepped I will say we did all that work to get this one out it was not leaking we looked over this thing everywhere I could see looking for corrosion I peeled back the foam and inspected and this one looked fine so it wasn't leaking uh but at least we're putting a new one in so still glad I did it or that I'm doing it I guess but uh anyway God this is a horrible job guys uh if you ever have the dash out of the car for like a different reason for sure changed the heater core no matter what cuz that heater core was like 40 something bucks so yeah if you ever have the dash out for sure change that okay we're going to try to put this in there and then I'm going to knock off for the day cuz I'm sick and I need to go rest okay guys so it's a new day we're still sick but uh show must go on so I think we got the carpet back together we're about to try to start it up see what happens so this heater core I'll show you what we did oh this is awful I ended up doing basically what Greg Peters did I'll get the camera up in there we ended up doing little hoses so basically the issue I run into is I can't get the little VB bands to go together like you need to have like two hands to push them together and then like one hand to hold them and then one hand to put the vband on and then one hand to tighten the screw that goes in the vband and I don't know how many hands that is but I don't have that many so I ended up marking everything and cutting it and then putting the v-bands on outside of the car and then doing the hose clamps inside the car which it turned out okay but it's not perfect if I ever redo this I'll get some better hose clamps I happen to have these and they're okay but they're not the best but we're leaving this cover off because I want to see if they leak so for now that stays off we're going to drive it like that for a little while make sure we don't have any leaks there before I finish that up so I guess we'll give this a once over and then we're going to hit the key and see what happens we haven't done the fuel pump yet so it should have fuel pressure so in theory it should fire right up if we didn't miss anything it don't take much for a Mazda to run you just need a crank sensor a cam sensor and a mass air flow that's it you can unhook every other sensor it'll still run uh as long as you know it's got compression and all that stuff but uh Mass plugged in cranks plugged in right there cams plugged in so we checked the timing timing seemed right so in theory it should fire one little got you always look for where that wire goes for the crank sensor it's hard to see right here there's a hose and there's this metal piece that holds all that always make sure you got that protected anyway I think we got it let's see what happens this thing has a clutch bypass so I should be able to long as I'm in neutral which we are I should just be able to hit the key we don't have the seat in here yet but no big deal we'll see what happens that's a good sign we're going to turn the heater on got the heat set we'll see if that uh start blowing heat in a few minutes one thing I always do see if anything terrible happens nothing's [Music] major oh that's good news another thing I like to do is give us some revs to try to get the cooling D FL [Music] [Music] okay well she runs well that was uneventful let's hope it stays that way no check engine light nice and we have a tiny bit of heat which is a good sign that means we got some water circulation that's always uh important to check we do have water circulation cuz we got a faint amount of heat good stuff okay guys so we just did our test drive and it's running really well drive is good didn't have any issues it did have some air in the cooling system so we're letting it cool down and we're going to top it back off so it definitely needs that but uh yeah she ran good drives good we changed out the motor mounts and man it's smooth and idle I got to say that made a difference uh I I still think they're too soft so we may have to change out but they're comfy you can barely tell the engine's running which is nice but yeah looks like everything worked uh car is doing well we've almost fixed everything no the only things that I know of that I can think of off the top of my head the fog lights got to be replaced but you can't really put the stock ones cuz they suck so you got to do aftermarket so we got to do that and then when it rains something about this little seal leaks so I got to figure that out uh we did find out why I feel so bad I just took a covid test and yay that's what it is so now I know but I still managed to do the time and belt and water pump and fuel pump and heater core while I had Co so wasn't for nothing hopefully the worst is behind me I just feel bad but anyway good news is this car is probably like 98% mechanically restored uh which is cool it definitely man it drives good I drove it oh man it drives great looks pretty good needs a bath but it's funny on camera it actually looks really nice kind of looks better on the camera than in real life but nonetheless I'll take it uh so that's going to wrap this one up anyway hope you guys enjoyed this and until next time y'all take it easy

Channel: Patrick Cowan Jr.

Views: 198

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Id: l4-LR97sjIU

Length: 21min 44sec (1304 seconds)

Published: Thu May 02 2024