10 Things YOU Must Prime to STOP Paint Fails

if you're wondering what you should be priming on the inside of your house before you paint it then this video is for you i'm going to talk all about it right about meow yo what's cracking folks jeremy vasser here with practical painting we are professional painters here to help diyers become better painters and in this video i'll be going over the top 10 things that i recommend you prime in your house before you paint them regardless of what surface you are priming the whole goal of priming is to properly prepare that surface so that when you go over it with your top coats of finish paint that that finish paint then cures correctly and you get a nice uniform finish and everything looks super snazzy so i'm going to go through my 10 recommendations and then at the end of the video i will be sharing the four primers that i keep stocked in my truck pretty much all of the time they're either stocked in my truck or my house and it's these are the four primers that i use and it kind of covers most of the things we're going to be talking about today without further ado let's start with number one which is new drywall there's a variety of reasons you could have new drywall in your home you could have had some renovations where they did some big patches a hole in the wall that required a patch of new drywall or you could have had a big remodel where they've re-rocked an entire bathroom something like that in that case you're gonna there's gonna be a mixture of new drywall and spackle and as long as that sphagel has been sanded and is ready to go uh then you're gonna need to prime that whole surface before you start running your topcoats and we like using you know basic drywall primer from sharon williams you can use a multi-purpose primer from a variety of uh brands also a lot of folks really like using pva primer which stands for polyvinyl acetate primer it doesn't matter that you know those words but it's a solid product you can get it relatively inexpensively and a lot of times the pva primers come in big five gallon buckets so if you have a lot of drywall to prime i would recommend going that route in a similar vein that brings us to number two which is spackle spots pretty much anything that'll work on drywall will also work on spackle spots because the two are so often used together so you might have some sphagel spots that are again with new drywall but also you can just have spackle spots that are over existing painted walls you might be filling nail holes doing patchwork trying to smooth something out whole bunch of reasons to have spaghel spots all over the walls and as long as they are sanded and ready to go you're just going to prime those with again you can use the pva drywall primer multi-purpose any of those are going to work and what that'll do is keep that spackle spot from flashing through on your finish coats if you don't prime it and then you go over it with a regular paint even painting primer in one because that's not a real thing you will see where that spackle spot is and it's called flashing and it'll flash through your finished coats and it's not going to look awesome and that brings us to number three which is raw wood raw wood looks like this and this is just an actual uh stair tread but a lot of times you will see raw unstained untreated wood in uh trim work and window sills that kind of stuff sometimes you have exposed edges of new doors that are completely raw wood so that needs to be primed and i would recommend using something like this which is wall and wood primer from sharon williams this is one of my favorite primers to use it is the mercedes-benz of latex primers but if you don't seal the raw wood in with a primer like this then what will happen is a lot of times the tannins will bleed through the pores in the wood won't be filled and then their top coats are not going to look good and it also take you just way more coats usually of trim paint to get it to where you want it to be so i would highly recommend using a wall and wood type primer a lot of times the multi-purpose primers will also work well so those are the two that i would recommend using for any kind of raw wood interior application number four is when you have a dramatic color change so usually this is on the walls but say your your walls are this top color here really light shade and then you're going to be painting on this really dark color down here what you're going to want to do is get a multi-purpose or even a premium wool and wood primer and get that tinted to be a dark gray so they call it like a p4 or p5 primer it just depends on how dark of a color you're going over top of it with what that does it just saves you from having to do like five coats of red or blue or whatever your dark color is it kind of starts it pretty dark already and then on the flip side of that if you have really dark walls that you're trying to cover up and your finished paint's going to be a lighter shade then you want to go over that with a nice multi-purpose primer that's just usually untinted white will do the trick so that you're you know you're covering that dark color and that way you don't have to go over it way too many times with your lighter finish paint number five is stained or polyurethaned trim it could be woodwork doors whatever a lot of folks will convert that from that stained look to painted and in order to make that conversion you're going to want to use either a shellac or a oil-based primer i like using bin from zinzener that's my current favorite a lot of guys like using cover stain as well it's a little bit thicker and some people think it's easier to work with but in general you're going to want to go with a either shellac or oil based primer if you don't do that then you're going to have issues with the latex either covering and having a lot of bleed through of the stain or gripping issues adhesion issues where as soon as you touch it's going to flake off that brings us to number six which is based trim very similar to the polyurethane and stain trim we do a lot of conversions of this as well so if you have an older house a lot of times like the house we're in right now is a farmhouse everything's been painted with oil-based trim paint and we're converting that over to a different product in order to do that you need to again use a shellac or oil-based primer if you don't do that that's a big problem if you go straight over oil with latex the latex will not adhere properly and as soon as you scratch it even slightly it'll flake right off and that is not what anybody wants so again you need to use a shellac or oil based primer and the current champ in my book right now is ben from zinzener that's my favorite one to use if you don't want to use a shellac then i would go with the cover stain which works really good too also there are some newer products that are hybrids that are trim paints like emerald urethane trim enamel or advanced from benjamin moore that say you can go straight over an oil-based product and it will adhere properly because it's a hybrid however i have seen if you don't prep those surfaces well which means you need to use a deglosser and probably do a little bit of sanding in order to get a good adhesion from either of those products so just be aware that if you're gonna go that route just make sure you prep those services well number seven is priming after you have stripped wallpaper the big concern here is that there's going to be glue residue left over from the wallpaper backer and that's how it actually sticks to the wall and if you go over that residue with a latex based wall paint which is probably what you're going to be doing you can reactivate that glue and get this weird crackly look which looks terrible that's not what anybody wants the other thing to be concerned with is if you have dug into the walls if you as you have stripped wallpaper then you can expose the drywall backer and you can kind of see those big brown spots that's super common you're going to want to seal all that in so none of that comes through in your top coats a lot of folks like using a product called guards it pretty much resurfaces the entire wall and it looks really nice it's a little bit difficult to work with because it's pretty much like rolling on water so just be aware of that you can also use a shellac based primer like bin that's what we generally use you can also use cover stain but some folks have a problem with how much fumes are generated using those product because you're rolling on so much of it so you can switch over to the odorless version of cover stain it's it's odorless it's just less smelly than the original but it still works pretty good uh that being said if you don't want to go that route we have had quite a bit of success just using a straight multi-purpose latex based primer and i say that with the caveat of these were in the scenarios where the wallpaper stripped really nicely we didn't have a lot of residue left over on the wall and we sanded the walls before we ran our primer over top of it and we've done that a bunch of times and it's worked out really well it just really depends on how the walls look once you've stripped the paper and if you see like there's a lot of junk in there then you might want to go with one of those more intense products if you think you're ready to rip then you can probably get away with a multipurpose latex number eight is water damage we see this a lot in first floor ceilings where the upstairs bathroom has leaked for whatever reason and you get a nice brown stain in the ceiling if you don't prime that then it'll just keep bleeding through any of the coats of ceiling paint that you put on it if it's a small enough spot i like using kills this is just spray kills we used to use the upshot but the nozzles on those are garbage so we switched over to the regular and these work really well again this is just a spray oil based primer and it works fairly nicely you can do a decent sized area but if you've got a much larger stain that you want to roll then i would use the ben shellac base primer that works way better in my opinion than even some of the other oil based primers that i've used so that's what i would go with either the kills or the bins number nine is any kind of dark marks that have bled through your top coats so it can be pen pencil marker anything like that that keeps kind of bleeding through dark scuffs on the wall things like that and i have a little example for you i prepared this board and what i did is uh it's a piece of drywall that's been primed and has a top coat of wall paint on here and then what i did is i drew a dark sharpie line all the way across it and i think you probably see it in this other camera a little bit better but in the middle you can see the original sharpie line and then uh over here on my right is the uh i just did one more uh top coat of the wall paint and you can kind of see there as i try and get that you can see it's like coming right through right there and then over here which you can't tell at all i kills that line so i hit it with spray kills and then it did another top coat and you cannot tell at all that there's any kind of mark underneath so that's the big difference uh when you use something like uh kills to block those uh types of marks so it works super good and the final item is soot stains we ran into this a lot on our last job which uh generally you get them from gas heaters fireplaces um smoking does it a lot even we had a house where they just lit a lot of candles and the smoke will go up and generally you'll see lines in the ceiling along where the joists are and those soot stains will not go away if we've tried cleaning them but generally just smudges it around but a lot of times the previous paint is then stained so you're dealing with a massive stain and usually they're on the ceiling sometimes it runs up onto the walls a little bit too but the product that i've found to be the best is actually any shellac based primer and i've used a number of them and i've said it a bunch in this video already but ben is my favorite and you end up having to cut and roll the last job we had to cut and roll every ceiling with the shellac based primer which was pretty aggressive fume wise but it did cover everything and it worked really well so if you don't do that they'll it'll just keep bleeding through and you'll see it no matter how many top coats you run so that is the tenth and final item and then to round things out so here are the primers that i keep in stock all the time i've got my spray kills for spot priming and i've got a multi-purpose from sherwin williams one of my favorite latex primers for general purpose use and then i've got premium wall and wood primer also from sherwin williams which is super sweet the fourth product that i always have in stock is not currently in front of me because it's being used at my job site which is how much i usually use it and that is the bin shellac based primer from zinzener that's a super great one to have on hand at all if you kind of have one of these from each category you can cover all your bases and pretty much all of your interior priming needs if you found this video useful and you'd like some more insight into how to make your job move along a little bit smoother then check out my three tips video which i will post at the end of this one but until next time y'all take it easy work smart [Music] [Applause] further ado excuse me how dare you jeremy i know amazing

Channel: Super Vassar Brothers

Views: 32,822

Keywords: practical painting, priming, what to prime, primer, multi-purpose primer, shellac, BIN, zinsser, cover stain, oderless coverstain, priming trim, jeremy vassar, prime spackle spots, top 10 priming, top 10 painting, what do i prime, paint priming

Id: mEUZaXQpx2g

Length: 12min 59sec (779 seconds)

Published: Sun Jun 12 2022