🤔 What's so special about 4G63? | TECHNICALLY SPEAKING

what's so special about the mitsubishi [Music] 4g63 manufacturing everything from air conditioners forklift trucks hydraulic equipment power generators printing machines ships aircraft and even railway systems mitsubishi shied away from mainstream motorsport until the mid 1960s but it was in the 1980s that the japanese car maker made its mark on our industry with its factory-backed world rally championship program and its unmistakable performance platform the mitsubishi 4g63 and that is the subject of today's video the 4g63 is a member of the mitsubishi sirius 4g6 family and was first introduced as a four-cylinder 2-liter petrol-powered naturally aspirated engine in 1980 but it's the turbo version the 4g63t that we'll be looking at today the 4g63t was first seen in 1988 in the mitsubishi galant vr4 and later in the more performance based mitsubishi evo lancer in north america the 4g63 was available in the higher trim levels of the first and second generation diamond star motors cars or dsms for short these were a series of sport compact coupes wearing mitsubishi eagle or plymouth badging during the late 1980s the 4g63 equipped group a gallant vr4 carried mitsubishi to its first outright world rally championship victory mitsubishi then homologated the group a lancer evolution and in the hands of finland's world famous tommy macinan won the driver's title four years in a row it was from 1996 to 1999 and won the manufacturers championship in 1998. the lancer evo also dominated the group nfia championship for showroom ready race cars they won seven consecutive titles in four different drivers from 1995 to 2001. even in 2002 when mitsubishi came second to proton in the group end rally it was a 4g63 that powered the proton to victory mitsubishi's mainly been associated with rally and circuit cars but in the last say 15 years the 4g63 engines played a huge role in mitsubishi powered drag racing cars as well in the united states names like david busher and john shepard pioneered the development of dsms and the 4g 63 for drag racing purposes haltech heroes like aaron gregory and devin schultz are carrying the proverbial torch for machines that clock off consistent 7 and 8 second quarter mile times at over 200 mile an hour with each year passing the new records are set and the mighty 4g 63 surprises us with times that truthfully i never thought would be possible from a four cylinder engine unbelievable the 4g63 engine uses a cast iron block and an aluminium cylinder head the engine block houses a forged steel crankshaft and connecting rods while the pistons are a cast aluminium they use a timing belt so not a timing chain to link the crankshaft to the dual overhead cams depending on the variant of 4g engine they've got different cylinder heads a low performing eight valve single overhead cam head a better performing 16 valve single overhead cam and the best a 16 valve dual overhead cam which is also available in two different versions a big inlet port and a small inlet port the single cam head actuates the intake and exhaust valves via rocker arms and the adjustment of the valve clearance is required the cylinder heads with the dual overhead camshafts have been around since about 1987. these engines also have rocker arms but with automatic hydraulic valve clearance compensation so a whole lot less work like honda's b and k series engines the 4g63s head and block were interchangeable with its longer stroke sibling the 4g64 combinations of these two engines can yield displacement increases up to 2.4 liters out of the little four-cylinder the the 4g63 can still be found in production vehicles today this means an overwhelming 40-year lifespan for the little mitsubishi platform to add to that aftermarket support and development is still going really strong on these things the high flowing aluminium cylinder head and stout iron block now form the foundation for high power production with some examples exceeding a thousand horsepower and billet block examples capable of up to about 700 horsepower but i'm sure neither of them are going to be the limit for very long [Music] the 4g63 block comes out in two variations a 6 bolt and a 7 bolt this refers to the number of bolts holding the flywheel to the crankshaft but it is indicative of a few other differences throughout the engine most notably the seven bolt main bearings have narrower journals and are allegedly not as strong as the six bolt engines therefore they've become a little bit less desirable for high horsepower builds the seven bolt engines also have a tendency for developing what we call crank walk which is when the thrust bearing on the crankshaft really deteriorates causing big problems along the bottom end as it fails a point of contention among enthusiasts is that the seven bolts not automatically more prone to crank walk and that the seven bolts crank hawk is little more than internet torque six bolt seven bolt depends on what camp you're in regardless when purchasing any 4g63 secondhand it's important to check the crankshaft for play in order to identify an engine that may have worn thrust bearing and the beginning of that dreaded crank walk the 4g63 is originally equipped with some balance shafts that are driven by a secondary rear timing belt this belt's prone to braking and causing primary timing belt failure this results in catastrophic engine failure deleting these balance shafts and their timing belt is normally one of the first performance steps that any 4g owner takes but there is a downside to this the balance shaft does noticeably reduce engine vibration at idle and cruise speeds but it's a small sacrifice in a performance engine build if you have a look down through the front of your timing cover case if you are unlucky sometimes you'll see that balance shaft belt all down there all crumpled up with the engine still running [Music] haltec ecu's support all forms of 4g63 factory trigger patterns that's the crank and cam sensors this includes the evo 1 through evo 9 and 1g and 2g dsm as well as most popular crank and cam pickup options on the market we manufacture 4g63 terminated engine harness kits to suit the 1g and 2g dsm as well as elite spec plug and play adapter harness to suit evo1 through to evo9 simple as factory harness plugs in here then that gets converted across into the haltech harness straight into an elite 1500 or 2500 series ecu plug in like that that's plugged in and we're ready to tune basically if you've got a 4g63 we can control it and we can control it well they've been the heart of many of our personal project cars and development cars and an engine super close to our hearts [Music] but now on to the good part pulling this 4g63 apart this is an evo 8mr 2-litre stock engine it was donated by jeff one of the haltech dispatch guys so if you've ever got anything from haltech jeff may have packed it for you we pulled this engine out of his car after it started making some funny noises so we've already had the sump off to have a bit of a sticky beak but we haven't had any of the top off yet so we'll pull it off from the top down see what's actually going on inside being a later model engine being an evo 8mr in those cars the engine sits pointing one way if it was an earlier model say a 1g 2g dsm evo 123 the engine would actually be turned around and facing the other direction in the car something worth noting all right we're on to the dirty bit so let's pull it apart and see what makes this thing so [Music] special so before we strip this thing too far apart i wanted to show you the crank sensor down here with the trigger disc that is on the crankshaft behind the main crank pulling so all i'm going to do while the timing belt's still on this thing i'm just going to turn the engine i am going to turn it backwards and forwards i know you're probably not supposed to but the thing is coming apart anyway so no problems there if we can get it to close up what you'll actually see is this tooth here that's going through this optical sensor that's mounted just here so basically that sensor is sitting like that a plate comes through a chopper wheel comes through interrupts that signal and that's how we get our trigger event occurring our rpm sensor there's a wide tooth and a narrow tooth on the crankshaft so that's our crank reference remembering four-stroke engine it's got a little gear down here it's got a big gear up here so remembering that the crankshaft has to spin twice while the camshaft spin once and because of that we need to have a camshaft sensor to tell us which cylinder is coming up to top dead center compression a crankshaft sensor regardless of the number of teeth on it will never be able to tell us that so we'll pull these out of the back here it's got three 10mm off the back we'll have a look at what's in the cam sensor here as a side note to this these engines are fitted with waste spark ignition so they've got two ignition coils it's got one coil that sits over cylinder one with a plug lead that dangles off it that goes to cylinder four likewise it's got another coil that goes into cylinder two with a plug lid that sits across the cylinder three so there's our cover off the timing gear up the top here and if we look inside there nice and close we're gonna see that it's actually got a wide tooth and a narrow tooth in there on the cam sensor a three pin digital hall effect sensor at the top here probably one of the problems with the 4g engines or the later forging engines these cam sensors are a little bit problematic now if you put a big high-rise turbocharger manifold up there or you've got a dump pipe going across them when they get a little bit warm they do tend to be a little bit problematic so evo 789 open the glove box you will typically find a few spare sensors in there so what i've just done now is i've wound the motor over so it's not at top dead center so on this engine at top dead center two pistons will be right at the top still be right at the bottom what i've done is i've turned the engine over so that all the pistons are about in the middle of the bore because i'm going to pull a timing belt off if i pull the belt off and all the pistons are at the top there is a chance that if we rotate it we might end up doing some valve damage while the belt's still in the front we can see obviously it's got the two cam gears up the top it's got two idlers along here it's got a hydraulic tensioner so what happens there is when we're putting the belt back on this is that grenade sort of style thing where it's got a pin that's all the way back into that tensioner it's held in with sort of like a grenade pin once you line everything up put it all together you pull the pin that tensions everything then you know your belt's tensioned [Music] up the top here we've got our dual variable camshafts uh like i said before this is an evo 8 engine the evo 9 engine still 4g63 had what mitsubishi called myvec or continuously variable intake cam control what that means that on the front here we would actually have a continuously electronically controlled variable cam gear it has an oil control solenoid that allows oil in to either advance or the camshaft then puts a certain amount of oil in to lock it in position we actually map that across all engine rpms and all engine loads in order to basically make the most engine power across all engine load sites when we look down here at the camshaft everything's neat and tidy and pretty compact there in the top of the cylinder head it's got two camshafts one camshaft does the inlet valves the other camshaft does the exhaust valves of each camshaft across each cylinder it's controlling two valves so that's two two two two under that we've got our hydraulic lifter and our rocker arm that rocker arm pushes straight on the top of the valve here we've got a retainer and the spring [Music] now that we've got the camshafts out of this thing we can see a little bit better about what's actually happening and how we are actuating the valves so in here this is something that is special about the 4g it's got roller rockers nice little thing we very rarely have problems with any of these then we've got hydraulic lifters these things here so that thing is bottomed out on the bottom of the cylinder head then that rocker sits on top of there like this as so then this is where our valve stem sits just here camshaft pushes it up and down spinny bit goes right on the camshaft and there's no wear so that's a really nice thing being hydraulically actuated you don't have to set any of your any of your tappets or anything like that one thing about these hydraulic lifters in the mitsubishi's they do have a tendency to get a bit noisy have a lot of ticking on cold start and once they get really bad all the time so not a terrible idea to replace them if you're putting cam shards in the engine i've loosened all the head bolts i'm just going to pull it off with the head bolts still in there but bolt's pretty straightforward if you are building one put a set of head studs in it because you can put enough boost in this thing it's going to need them [Music] this has got a factory multi-layer head gasket just pop that off geez it has seen better days this engine and it does stink i don't care what anyone says about the smell of pulling an engine apart this one smells funny in the cylinder head we can have a look at the exhaust ports are massive we flip it around the intake ports are equally as large with a little relief in the top for the fuel injector in the factory inlet manifold flip it over it doesn't appear that there's any damage anywhere there but pretty straightforward just a nice neat cylinder head without too much effort in porting or doing relieving for oversized camshafts the cylinder head really does lend itself to huge huge horsepower applications because with just drop-in camshafts no porting or very minor porting you can make a huge amount of horsepower with this very basic cylinder head now that the cylinder heads off we can see that it is a closed deck style block so there's not a big water gallery around every single cylinder not something like that open deck subaru for example so that makes it nice and strong in the cast iron block there's not too many holes up the top so it is fairly solid in the deck and there is quite a lot of meat in between the cylinders here as well we'll flip it over have a look at the bottom end and see see what's happened down there now there's two reasons for pulling this engine down in the first place the first one is that jeff wants to build a 2.3 liter billet crank stroker engine but the second part of that reason is because this engine did start making well what jeff described as a sort of like a bit of a tapping noise we pulled the sump off i know what the tapping noise was straight away we'll pull the pickup apart and i'll try and clean it out there's bearing material in the pickup so something's gone horribly wrong if i cast my eyes down and start looking at the bottom of the conrods here so at the begin bearings the first bearing on cylinder four looks pretty reasonable it's a normal sort of color we'll get a close-up here of the cylinder 3 rod it's black so i can wobble it so straight away the thing's had a serious malfunction it's spanner bearing it's done something wrong so we'll pull it apart and see what's actually happened there but this is a really good example of that knocking noise so when you do have something what people call a bottom end knock this is exactly what that noise would have been it makes the bottom of that rod so hot that before you know it that bearing will just disintegrate it'll go through the engine it'll destroy absolutely everything so i wouldn't be surprised in this engine if the main bearings as well so the ones holding the actual crankshaft in have got bearing material through them and the whole thing's just scored and destroyed so as we pull it down we'll suss that out so this is something we don't really get an opportunity to sort of show you or explain what this noise is really like but when you free rev the engine up so that means in neutral no clutch or you know in neutral in automatic transmission if you free rev the engine up to two 3000 rpm and you hear that noise is so loud when you're in the car that you know there's something horribly wrong i can make that noise here so i'll just get close with the mic if you can hear that noise but imagine that at two or three thousand rpm that's a death rattle so let's pull it apart and see what's in there so here's our oil pickup so this is the thing where the oil pump is pulling oil up out of the sump through this connection here which has got a gasket if that gasket leaks and we've got a little problem here that means that we would be dropping oil pressure so it's important to make sure that gasket is in place it comes up through the oil pump and then down through the oiling system of the engine so i don't know if we can get a close-up of that but that's what's actually in the pickup i'm excited to pull this apart now it's got this windage tray here which is a pretty nice thing so that serves no purpose other than to settle the oil down when you're revving the engine hard to make sure that it doesn't aerate and to make sure that the pickup is picking up solid oil and not sort of a bubbly um foamy sort of thing in the sump having a look in there i couldn't see the front two rods before they look like a nice color so it is cylinder three is the one that's had a catastrophic failure off the top here we've got our main bolts that holding the crankshaft in and something really special about it it's got a single girdle that holds the whole thing together so we don't have individual caps we've got one girdle that we'd be pulling off really nice a nice way to do it that's the piston conrod it's got a fairly skinny conrod they do bend where this particular one doesn't look like it this conrod general rule of thumb is somewhere around 650 newton meters of torque at the wheels is about the upper limit as soon as you start going any more than that she'll bend then she'll put a window in the block so keep that in mind [Music] all the pistons are out they're on the bench here i did manage to find the bearing for cylinder three which it's absolutely destroyed but all the rods look like they're in really good shape we're not going to be using these rods or pistons in a rebuild anyway so realistically they're all going in the bin but it's nice to know that the thing was running pretty well except for that bearing we'll pull the crankshaft out now and see what sort of damage is there from that so that's our girdle nice cast thing comes in one piece so that does stop the whole bottom end from twisting under big power it's a pretty special piece front plate here actually houses the oil pump the balance shaft is behind here this is that balance shaft belt i was talking about that's the crank trigger again that's the crank trigger pickup just here that's where i'm up to so keep in mind as well the timing belt's already off when you do a timing belt on this engine you don't have to replace the balance shaft belt but it is good practice and the other problem with this is that in the car remember that it's an east west style engine the wheel is normally somewhere along here pulling this bolt off it's bloody hard work down to the crank bolt on my arch nemesis on this one not too hard to pull apart no i'm just kidding that was really really hard so we pre-prepared for that crankballed out no well she has fought me every step of the way here so pulling the timing gear bolt out was hard work uh pulling the timing gear itself off very hard work but the mitsubishi does do it pretty nice where they actually put an m12 bolt thread in the foot there's four of them in the front of the timing gear so you can put four bolts in tighten them bit by bit by bit and eventually take that that real tight gear off the front of the crank so that's a really nice thing to do but now we'll pull that whole timing plate off the front which is going to release our um or our oil pump assembly it's also going to release both our balance shafts and let us pull a crank out [Music] so [Music] so there's our crankshaft they're a pretty tough thing in the standard two-liter engine when they break i have seen them break before around the journal for cylinder four here incredibly i've actually seen one of these crankshafts break and then the engine still run enough that it would catch and run and you couldn't quite understand why but it was because the journal the crankshaft was broken what's not so good about the 4g engine the balance shafts the thing has got two counter rotating balance shafts that spin inside the block one on either side one of them this one here this is the oil pump assembly here in the timing cover case at the bottom to be honest i don't really understand why the mitsubishi engines had the balance shafts the whole way through like whether there's a fundamental balancing problem whether mitsubishi were trying to do something special and make it a super super smooth running engine i can't imagine that's the case because the twin balance shaft and the complexity of it doesn't really in mind opinion make it any smoother than one of its competing engines without a balance shaft system now that the engine's stripped down to pretty much nothing if we flip her over a bit you can see the oil squirters that i was talking about before that are spraying up the bore onto the bottom of the piston in order to take some of that temperature out of the piston crown and bring it back down into the oiling system then out to the factory oil coolers that the late model evos have had in order to basically just keep combustion temperature down being able to make more power other than that inside this thing it's big it's tough it's heavy it's a good block like all the engine tear down videos i know this one's been a really long one lots of nuts and bolts i've got lots of cleaning up to do so as always thanks so much for sticking with me the end my name's scott i'll see you next time [Music] you

Channel: Haltech

Views: 322,500

Rating: 4.9459519 out of 5

Keywords: haltech, ecu, tuning, mitsubishi 4g63 engine, mitsubishi 4g63t, mitsubishi 4g63 turbo, mitsubishi 4g63t engine, 4g63 tuning guide, 4g63t build, 4g63t engine, 4g63t timing belt replacement, 4g63t addict, 4g63t rebuild, 4g63 engine teardown, whats so special about 4g63, whats so special, tuning fork, engine teardown and rebuild, engine teardown, mitsubishi evo 9, mitsubishi evolution, mitsubishi evo build, mitsubishi evo 8, 4g63 how it works, mitsubishi evo 9 tuning

Id: J7k95s0K-Kc

Length: 25min 55sec (1555 seconds)

Published: Thu Oct 08 2020

Reddit Comments

[u/DarkMatterM4]

The 4G63 aka the 2JZ of 4 cylinder engines.

[u/barelyworthreading]

How & why has Mitsubishi strayed so far!?

[u/optitmus]

everything

[u/Uncle_BennyS]

It's bullet proof

[u/mortimerza]

Mitsubishi RVR