📌NIKON NX Studio HONEST Review & Full Tutorial For Beginners [IMPORT, LOCAL ADJUSTMENTS TO EXPORT ]📌

nikon nx studio is the best raw converter for your nikon dslr and mirrorless camera period not lightroom not capture one not dxo is the nikon studio raw why because of course it's made by nikon so they understand their science and the colorometry which means they will treat their own raw file better than anyone else in the market this is simple is that so today in this video i'm going to show you how to use it properly now before i jump into the tutorial please take a moment to click the subscribe button it helps me a lot to continue this kind of contents let me show you how this works so this is how the interface look like so i'm gonna give you a quick briefing before i show you all the functionalities so if you want to bring your photos you have two options option number one which is personally i don't use much which is the import button so you click import and there you go nikon transfer will come and you can go to your files and click start transfer but i don't use it much because this kind of gets too complicated i like to edit my photos on the go so i'm just going to get out of here and the second option is to go to navigate through this folder and then go to your folder files for example i already have my nikon raw files selected which is pretty easy pretty simple to use i don't need to worry about it too much so once it's done you have two options you can actually click it close so they can have bigger space normally i don't really care because i need that navigation and from there you can continue your editing now at the top you have the traditional file edit browser image adjust view window and help obviously you can look at it in your own time normally again i don't really care i don't really have to use them now at the bottom i showed you already the import and then you have the sidebar navigation navigation is very useful when you actually zoom in for example like that and you can actually click it there and then go back and forth pretty convenient now i'm gonna go to full screen now you have the favorite folder here again it depends person to person i don't really use it now at the bottom you have albums very useful if you want to have a really good lightroom alternative and have your albums ready now at the bottom you have all the files now interesting thing about the nikon nx studio you can use you can edit nikon raw file of course but it can edit any kind of thief or jpeg from anywhere so doesn't matter doesn't mean that you have a canon jpeg or tiff we have a thief and jpeg made from fuji you can still use the software as you want only thing you cannot use which is the lens correction and the picture picture control or picture styles that's it but everything else will remain same including the local adjustment we'll get to it later now at the top you have this button to thumbnail mode you can check into the list you can if your raw file has jpeg sorry gps embedded it can actually click there and then take a look at it i'm not gonna go there because it takes a lot of time then you have the full screen mode obviously then you have the side by side so side by side is different because this side by side is generally you have to compare you want to compare with the other photos for example you can click here and then go to other photos side by side and it's easy and you can click this little button there so they they are all moved together i'm gonna get there now so i'm gonna zoom in first like that and then click this button and let's check out what happens they both move at the same time which is very very interesting so that's that you can do exactly the same thing with four photos at the same time very very extremely useful tool and this one which is on the one side we have the before is written there and after which is your edited version very useful if you want to compare with your original photos so you're gonna turn this one off or go back there like that now if you want to have a full screen mode you can click this one and you can have a full screen mode if you want to get out of there you can click escape and you can get out of there easily and of course you can filter your images based on site and here of course you have your zoom tool so it can have full screen mode you can have one percent zoom like that and this is where your navigation tool comes in handy so you can move around and then take a look personally i recommend you to edit your photos 100 zoomed in or at least 50 zoomed in because it takes a lot of load off your software very important if you have not so strong laptop or computer i'm gonna go back there then of course you have the preset of the zoom 13 25 15 and so on or you can have the plus and minus button to zoom in and zoom out pretty simple and easy to understand now we got that button there obviously you have another tool here you can edit videos so i'm going to click there i'm not going to go to this edit button but what it does is basic i think personally this is one of the easiest photo or video editing tool ever i have ever used what i mean by that it's basic it cannot get more basic than that you bring your images uh videos you can combine them together and you can edit them by adding some music that's it it's essentially the best tool if you want to upload in your social media in your social media or something similar or you want to do a kind of rough cut that's freaking awesome then you have other apps right there so other apps what happen is that let's say after editing here you want to use uh plugins such as topaz denoise ai or topaz sharpening or you want to do further retouching in photoshop lightroom or gym or affinity photo you have that option you can directly open this photo over there depends on if you want to open in jpeg or raw slideshow is another phenomenal tool that i love from the bottom of my heart i think this is also one of the easiest and free of cost slide show maker ever i did a test other day and it just works perfectly i'm gonna give you give it a go just to show you exactly how it works so it has this style like a random so it it random mix the standard fade in fade out and wipe all together and then you can add music you can include even videos and you can do the repeat so it kind of goes for a loop easy peasy still image duration you have the standard short and long usually the standard one is the five seconds the short one generally three seconds and the long one is about 10 second last time i tasted easy to understand guys i highly recommend you to give it a go if you want to have some kind of simple and easy to use slideshow maker i turn it off and then you have the print obviously if you want to print this kind of photos you have this beautiful option with all kind of tools necessary then you have the upload upload is basically let's say you made the video or slideshow then you want to upload in either youtube or if you have a photo you can directly upload to nikon image space again uh not the most famous one ever but you have that option available and of course finally nothing last but not the least export you have the export you can export as jpeg or you can export as 16 bit diff or 8-bit tiff with the quality control very very easy to understand now enough with the boring part now let me show you how to actually edit a photo in nikon nx studio i hope until now you got the idea of this basic functionality and if you're still here again i remind you please do subscribe it helps me a lot now this is probably the easiest software i have ever used period uh and personally i use sigps developers 3d pro but i find this setup pretty useful because you have everything in one go you don't need to go to the different section you can you have to just go from you start from the top you slow down go down go down and finish at the bottom that's it i promise yes you can clearly see that you have some buttons there you know what it does they actually jump section for instance if i click this one it goes there right but if i click the next one it just jump to another section in exact same location same goes for the local adjustment cropping or level adjustment you see that how cool is that that's why i love it so that's the adjustment section i already have the histogram here but of course you can turn on the histogram at the top like that in info you have all the information of your raw file if you want to have a quick look and you have the xmp files which is basically the sidebar or your exit files editor so you can add your name titles email states etc and you can also tag them with the stars and special names exactly same as lightroom now with the white balance tool obviously you have the original value which is which means as it is taken at the time of the photograph now i'm gonna show you just say auto for example if i do calculate automatically it will try to calculate and give you the closest one available that it thinks you have the auto one you have the auto two i've used this kind of tool in cell cables developer studio pro as well so what it does it tries to if you look at the histogram it tries to match everything into one so it kind of linearize the white balance very very useful of course you have the manual slider as well if you want to use it you have the dropper if you want to drop it somewhere you think that supposed to be white you can use it now that's one and you have the oh before i go there i want to show you the something else as well which is the picture control of course because if you're using nikon raw file you can manually add your picture styles or picture profiles or picture control of the nikon as you had in camera for instance here you have the standard you have standards is generally i'm gonna go back standard is generally a bit more contrasty i imagine bit more saturated followed by you have the neutral quite muted but muted one is still quite you know saturated enough to me then you have the vivid obviously very good for landscape but you have to make sure that you nail your exposure what i mean by that because vivid is quite vivid or bright and saturated so in camera i recommend you to shoot we while you keeping an eye on your exposure now monochrome my personal favorite i love monochrome and then in monochrome you can also have toning for instance you have the obviously the classic sephia all kind of different colors such as personally i love sephia or i also love the blue tone kind of old school let's see the red is purple also nice too because it's a red rose um what else you have the portrait amazing for portrait photography but also you know you can use it for flower or landscape photography why not landscape obviously if you're taking a landscape there's not much difference between the landscape and vivid personally speaking they're both pretty saturated contrasty and colorful and you have the flat flat is almost even more muted than neutral so let's go back and forth between the flat we are in flat keeping an eye and let's say we go to neutral so neutral is slightly more saturated than the flat mode and now let's say you have your own version of it let's say you created your own preset you can record adjustment there which is basically save preset and just like in camera let's say you choose to use the flat one because you like the mood look however you want to add some extra sharpening or let's say you want to reduce clarity as much as you can or you want to reduce contrast as much as you can or you can add contrast you can also reduce or add brightness you can control the saturation of the given picture profile or hue let's go crazy i'm gonna change the hue completely and then you can go there in the same list and record adjustment which means you can save it there in the list and use it for later click reset to go back to original so interesting thing about that so you have the each individual controller right there as you imagine but you also have the same tool right there so what is the difference of course you have d light uh d lightning h's shadow projection highlight protection but brightness contrast and saturation already existed there the difference is that if you reduce the brightness there for instance it doesn't completely reduce the brightness because it's it's not crazy it's not aggressive it's quite light and subtle however if you do the exact same thing over here you basically get rid of everything that's it it's gone it's gone completely so i personally recommend you to select your picture profile or let's say picture control and control those that's what i recommend you control those ones and avoid using the traditional one because they can be more aggressive only thing you have to use in this section personally i believe is the highlight protection or shadow production and delight because those weren't are important why because let's say you want to raise the um saturation but guess what happened it didn't make the red super red it also exploded the highlight see that i'm going to zoom in quite a bit beam there you go you can see that red is gone you don't have information anymore let's go back and forth before we have little bit you have this little water drop right there but if i zoom in you almost cannot see it anymore so what the highlight protection does it try to protect the highlight while raising the saturation let's go 100 you see it try to reduce the highlight as much as it can same goes for shadow we're gonna go to the hundred so it try to protect the shadow and bring the shadow back up we're gonna go back to original value so you got the idea d light um d d lighting h's generally it try it almost like a d meaning that reducing the contrast they tried to bring back some of the lost shadow right there let's go to 100 again just to show you the difference you never should go to 100 of anything repeat after me i will never push the slider to 100 ever in my life say it about 100 times right because just because you have a slider it's easy to overuse anything you always do subtle editing that's it don't go crazy now i'm gonna go back so you got the idea so either you can adjust brightness and color here we have the preset you can record the preset or you can start from your picture control and do subtle adjustment there and move on skip the whole process right there you don't touch it anymore personally that's what i recommend you the exposure compensation right there of course guess what it does you should know that already it raise the exposure reduce the exposure very easy to understand i don't know if you can hear our church is ringing anyway moving on active delighting is the same one which is basically if you turn put low it try to bring the shadow back it try to recover as much shadow it can gives you a very good dynamic range you have the normal you have the high you have extra high you have extra high too again don't overuse it just because you have it you don't have to use it right now moving on to level and curves my personal favorite okay let me tell you something curves is the best and most powerful tool and in photo and video editing software period there is nothing else can replace it that's the topic for another day but just remember that so you have this original value now you want to let's say set the black point what set the black point means find the darkest part of the image let's say this one right there so we officially set a dark point now what is the brightest one here to me the brightest point is this reflection on the leaf or the sky right there let's go for this one so now what happened let me show you before and after so this is before this is after so it gives this subtle contrasty look and neutral point right in the middle set the neutral point so you have to figure out which part you think should be in the middle the neutral part unfortunately i we don't have any kind of gray middle gray card here or any in the sky for instance so we cannot do that but if i had it i would click on this gray card and then set it as a middle gray so we're gonna skip that part but it can also manually add an anchor point why anchor point is important let's say you want to only control this red hair because it's too strong for you right so you put an anchor point here and you can do an anchor point there and there and control adjust the middle part see that's why i told you this is one of the most powerful tool ever now this gamma slider here for instance gamma and brightness exactly the same thing again i repeat gamma and brightness is exactly the same thing let me show an example if i put it up it reduce the gamma or brightness if i put it down it add brightness and guess what the brightness and exposure are not the same thing because in brightness if i go all the way down you still have some information there because it's only and only reducing the middle part you see that in the curve it's only pushing up the middle part it's not touching anything however though if you do the same thing with exposure like you add exposure or reduce exposure completely it doesn't affect the same thing it completely push everything all the way up over saturated and over bright but gamma is not the same thing gamma it just adds the middle let's say you reduce completely and add completely it doesn't over saturate i know it's so complicated but don't worry about it if you want to have the manual order like a manually control the curve you can reset completely we can reset all channels and you can either use the auto contrast like that or you can do the classic manual s-curve my favorite you see that how cool is that it looks really nice saturated and punchy now this is one of the tools that you only find in software like capture one or lightroom which is lightness chroma and hue adjustment you asking what the hell is that jesus why they have to make things complicated why they cannot speak normal english i'm going to translate that for you so l c h lightness chroma and hue adjustment what it does exactly for instance you think this red hair is way too red [Music] and you want to reduce it something you want to reduce it as a saturation or you think it's too bright but you don't want to affect the rest of the image what can you do right now it's in the chroma section so we're gonna go to the color lightness select the anchor point drop it there let's say this is too bright we're gonna drop it i'm gonna zoom in for quite a bit just to show you exactly what i'm doing up there you go and we because we dropped something there it created a little anchor point right there can you see that so i'm gonna pull it down quite slowly as i'm pulling down you can see that there's a change in the redstone meaning that it reducing the lightness of this specific red now i'm gonna reset i'm gonna do exactly the same thing click the anchor point go to the chroma click there and slowly go down [Music] and because i went for extreme change what happened you can see that that particular areas lost all its color completely it's gone practically looks ugly of course you don't want to do that you don't wanna you don't wanna make create a distortion you want to do subtle change always always always do subtle change so in order to do subtle change you should i'm gonna go to the reset click this anchor point drop that anchor point on top of that and i when i once i click it i'm gonna do the width a little bit and then go down you see that instead of going just a sharp change it did created a curve so now it looks quite nice and subtle even if you go crazy you can see where it's affecting it's affecting the other channel in the surrounding neighbors how cool is that this is amazing only time i've seen such tools is in a paid software such as lightroom silky peaks capture one and such it's extraordinary so again lightness you can select a light area use the width to make sure that it's nice and wavy [Music] and reduce the light reduce the chroma chroma is saturation repeat after me chroma is saturation again chroma is saturation or it can change the hue so i showed you the color lightness the lightness of the color i think it goes with the name i showed you the chroma now i'm gonna show you the hue so i'm gonna reset again now i'm gonna change to hue select the area select that little point first just you have to click it don't move it then add about point twenty now pull it down see what happens i'm gonna do it slowly this is changing the color do you remember that it exist in dxo hsl tool you have the same tool in lightroom hsl you have the same tool in capture one pro you have the same tool in photoshop affinity photo and silky pixels developer studio pro and any other major software that out there this is incredible for free of course i cannot believe this personally let's change the color for fun go somewhere else let's see we go to yellow we can't even go to blue i imagine oop [Music] maybe we cannot go to blue oh yeah we can go to right there yep we cannot go to blue but it can go to purple anyway you get the point i'm gonna stop playing with it so i'm gonna click reset and get back to the original photo you get the idea though right so chroma you can select chroma select your anchor point green i showed you with the red but you can do anywhere in the image anywhere you can do it green you can do the same thing with if you have a sky most of the time is useful for sky 2 because if you have a blue sky but way too bright you want to reduce the color you can use exact same tool go to the chroma or go to light color lightness or hue to change color reduce color and reduce lightness of the color i hope it made sense right did it i hope so now color booster oops color booster right there i don't think we need any kind of color booster because it's already quite freaking saturated but the color booster boosts the color of course so if you if you have people you have nature so i'm gonna go to nature and add boost and it over saturate the hell of the photo like a freaking la la land anyway so if you have a photo that is less saturated you can select people or nature and boost some color personally i recommend you to use this instead now at the bottom noise reduction before i go to noise reduction i want to show you something else which i think i skipped which is the retouch brush the retouch brush what it does it actually helps you getting rid of all kind of dust spots i don't have any dust in this photo so i'm not going to show you this is amazing so color control point what is it do you remember the nyx nick collection or dxo photo left 4 or if you're using like me silky piece double pro studio pro or even lightroom you can click an anchor point and it does exactly the same so if you want to know where you have used you can move it there you see that little circle if you want to make it bit more concentrated or wide you can do that i think lightroom is more complicated than that now if you want to know exactly where where your effect going to be in you can show the show effect area click it beam you know exactly the white one is where your effect gonna be applied on and the dark one is the one that going to be safe if you want a proof let me show you i'm going to reduce the saturation like no tomorrow beam completely you see that it only affected a certain portion of the flower and nothing else was touched check this one out again i'm going to show you see that it can do the same thing i'm going to move it back and now i can reduce it i can add a little bit more move it here and in fact i recommend you to click it and whilst you move it you can see exactly where is happening you see that every time we move somewhere it changes the location i'm going to show you again so you have to make sure that little dot there see that there you go you point wherever it points it selects almost similar channel right and then once you're happy with your selection turn it off and then do your adjustment so i showed you with the saturation i'm gonna change the hue for instance do you see that but it did not affect anything just that i'm gonna do the same thing with i'm gonna go there just for fun you see that the brightness so i i added the second one but we're not gonna go they're gonna stay with the first one so i can reduce the brightness or i can add more brightness this is color the contrast sorry so i can reduce contrast i can add contrast and then it can control the individual channel the red for instance green and blue and it can also control the temperature so right now i want it completely either cooler or warmer good news is that you can add as many control point as you want just by clicking everywhere like that and control each point exactly exactly exactly same as nick collection or dxo photo lab and similar to even lightroom this is extremely flexible powerful and useful i cannot i cannot stress enough probably this is gonna be my favorite new tool for any kind of any kind of nikon photos and guess what i forgot did i tell you that at the beginning of the tutorial that if you have jpeg you can still use the color control point how cool is that you don't get to have the same option for any other camera photos if you have the fuji fuji camera it cannot use the jpeg or other camera's jpeg of this of fuji it cannot certainly do that in canon dpp other than canon camera jpeg probably but this certainly not but even if with the tiff you can select your control point and use the control point i mean that's it that is a game changer my friend i'm going to show you what it does for example here i'm going to move this thing a little bit there and i'm going to show you that this is only affecting the part of this coconut tree sorry palm tree and i'm happy with it and i can do whatever the hell i want this is crazy i'm just gonna go crazy with this and change the color completely i mean i'm i keep showing you over and over and over and over again i get it but i want you to understand the awesomeness of this tool here and fact that you can use it in any other photos and photos taken from other cameras especially with the tiff and the jpeg so that means that even if you have a nikon nx studio you can edit your teeth or jpeg taken with any camera in the planet now that's amazing and if you are confused with this tool here right there like you are not comfortable you can go down make sure you select your control point and change it from there manually right and at the bottom then you have this crop tool obviously which i recommend you to fit the thing first and then you can do your usual cropping you got the idea straighten obviously you want if your photo is not straight enough you can always make sure it's nice and straight you got the problem you got the idea you have the perspective control of course vertical and horizontal [Music] like that pretty easy and then camera correction obviously you can do your lens correction right there of course the because it's a t file you cannot do that remember it doesn't work with your t for jpeg you have to go to your raw file and see that it automatically became selectable pretty cool isn't it now where is our noise reduction i'm going to go to the noise direction and show you how the noise reduction works so there you go in adjust details you can do noise reduction i can i'm going to actually turn off my local adjustment right there because i think it's stupid you can get rid of that like clicking each of them like that this cross you can get rid of them easily pretty easy or you can just go back to the original value you know a lot better a lot easier now about our noise reaction first because remember you do noise reduction first and then do your sharpening after remember repeat after me noise reduction then sharpening not other way around and you should do 100 at least at least 50 if not 100 now i'm gonna unselect this stupid tool there you go done and then method faster or better quality let's go for better why not you know but it's a high quality raw file so noise reduction crazy noise direction is not really important and then you can turn on the edge noise reduction astral noise reaction is important if you're doing astrophotography so it try to analyze your star i'm not expecting it so you do it on your own time then you can add the intensity of course and add sharpness if you're losing too much detail so let's say even these are noise free noise free um photos i'm gonna add let's say 50 or 70 and see that because of the noise reduction you lost like a basically all the details of course you shouldn't do that what sharpness does try to bring some of the detail back but i recommend you to be careful with it i'm going to bring it back because i think the photo is already good enough to me now this sharpness doesn't work if you don't add noise reduction for instance if you want to keep it to zero do you see that and now it cannot control this thing but if you add noise reduction you can move it back and forth you see that this is pretty cool so sharpness doesn't work if you don't add noise reduction obviously this is quite logical now if you want to add a separate sharpening you have to separate tool turn on the sharpness and we have this original value and you can add sharpness slowly go with one and little bit by little bit by little bit you go forward until you see it's good enough never ever ever ever ever over sharpen all right now you can also add the unsharp masking obviously but those are more complicated that's i'll save it for another time stick with the normal sharpening guys i mean it's not really hard uh answer unsharp mask it's mostly for you know if you want to export a photo for web it should be one type of unsharp mask if you are exporting for printing it's another one if you are actually going to edit in photoshop you shouldn't sharp the photo at all you can actually do it over there anyway so i think i'm pretty much went from top to bottom and you can save your settings in each section right there in this section you have the record adjustment you record your adjustment and that is it and now just before i go last but not least each photo he can add stars like that he can lock it so that he cannot accidentally edit it anymore you can see the information by clicking this i button you can turn on your grid and i'm gonna full screen and you can check your focus point for instance here the focus point is here boy or boy or boy so guys before i go three important things remember one this is the best photo editing software for nikon cameras dslr and mirrorless number two you can edit jpeg and tiff in nikon nx studio from any camera in the planet and works exactly the same except you cannot use picture control noise reduction and sharpening and the lens correction number three subscribe and support please uh it's a humble request so that i can keep continue my channel i wish you all the best if you want to revisit this video then come back watch it again to understand how this software works i wish you all the best and bye you

Channel: Treasure Hunters Digital

Views: 21,875

Keywords: Nikon Cameras, Nikon, Nikon NX Studio, Nikon NX Studio Tutorial, Nikon NX Studio vs Lightroom, Nikon NX Studio vs Capture One Pro, Nikon NX Studio as a Lightroom Alternative, photography tutorial, Nikon NX Studio Review, Treasure hunters digital, Edit Nikon Nef, Edit Nikon raw photos, Best Jpeg Editor, Replacing Lightroom, Video Edit Nikon NX Studio, NX Studio Slideshow Maker, NX Studio U-Point Technology, Dxo Photolab 4 vs Nikin Nx Studio, Honest Review, Français, Italiano

Id: jD9trkvl4Oc

Length: 40min 40sec (2440 seconds)

Published: Mon Mar 29 2021