If I say the name “Yaowarat”. What’s the first thing that comes to your mind? As a kid who grew up in this community. I see Yaowarat as a giant food hall. The one I visited everyday after school. But in retrospect as I grew older. I started to see Yaowarat in different aspects. An 133 year old overseas Chinese community. It’s the world’s 4th oldest of its kind. Why did so many Chinese people
leave their motherland to reside here? And most of them had only
*mat and pillow (*literally nothing). My family was one of them. And what I’ve been hearing
what my grandparents told me was how our ancestors came ashore right here. I think the Chinese junk boat docked
here right where we’re standing. But there’s nothing left of the old quay. I’m not sure where it was exactly. But I believe that any existing quay or pier
in Bangkok originated from the old ones. If we study old photographs. One distinct photo was
during King Rama IV’s reign. You could see a steam boat or
junk boat docked near the Grand Palace. It’s possible that
if Chinese people migrated to Yaowarat, there should be quays or piers in the area. So what did the Chinese migrants do
when they first moved here? During the early Rattanakosin era,
they were mostly manual laborers. Because at the time, during the reign
of King Rama IV to King Rama V, China was very weak as a nation. As it was invaded by western countries. Another reason was due to natural disasters. Especially the floods. If left the people with no lands. They eventually had to evacuate. Hence the idea of settling down in Thailand. Chinese people then started to save up. And transitioned from manual laborers
to skilled laborers. Upgrading themselves from the lowest tier
to the middle class. Some even went as far as being elites
in high society. We’ve learned the origin of Yaowarat. But if I go back to my first question. If I say the name “Yaowarat”. What’s the first thing that comes to your mind? I believe this is the image
most people would think of. Bright gold shop signs shining
their color in the night. One of the major businesses that
established itself together with this street. How long has Tang Toh Kang been around? We’ve been in business for 170 years. Yes. - 170 years?
- 170 years. My great-grandfather was like
any other Chinese. Had only a mat and a pillow as he fled the war. Where did your great-grandpa come from? Tenghai. And he settled down here. So when he first got here… He was doing odd jobs. What kind of odd jobs? Just manual labor like carrying
rice sacks and whatnot. But then he took interest in necklace crafting. And initially it was a silver necklace. - So he didn’t start with gold?
- Not yet. - He started with silver first?
- Yes. You start practicing goldsmithing
with a silversmith. Because silver doesn’t cost as much. - And the basics are pretty much the same, right?
- Yes. So when did Tang Toh Kang come to be? When my great-grandpa expanded his business. As he saw the rising customers,
he decided to open a small shop. And he used his name
“Toh Kang” and surname “Tang”. Oh, Tang Toh Kang is
your great-grandpa’s name. - It is.
- Tang-Toh-Kang. If there’s any gold shop that takes me
back to my childhood… Yes. A kid version of me holding on to a showcase. - It must be here.
- Oh, thank you so much. - Everything is so original.
- Yes, exactly. This is what I’ve been seeing
since the day I was born. How it was back then is still the same today. - You’re the 5th generation.
- 5th generation, yes. And is this the same counter? Yes, the same counter that’s been revamped
to make it look better. For some reason, every time
we mention the word “Yaowarat” gold shops must be paired together
with the area. - That’s right.
- It’s always been like this, right? Originally, there were 4 gold shops. Then they banded together as sort
of an association. There were Yi Sun Mui
Yi Sui Heng And Seng Soon Lee. - And of course…
- Yes, and Tang Toh Kang. These four tigers would set
the gold price together. I thought the price was set by the bank. The bank couldn’t compete
with us at the time. - Because no one set the gold price back then, right?
- None. But this group makes gold and discusses
the price among each other. Precisely. At the very beginning,
the gold wasn't sold in bricks. It was sold in plates like this. The gold was pressed into plates
and stamped the brand. We would take only as much
as the customer wants. “Here’s the weight.”
“Are you okay with this?” “This is the price, are you okay with it?” And they’ll take the gold plates. How much did the gold cost per baht
in your great-grandpa’s days? It’s 1 Thai baht per 1 gold baht. So, a gold baht. We didn’t have
metric scales back in the days. So we used a fruit weighing scale. And we weigh Thai baht coins on the scale. - So that’s the origin of the term “baht” in Thai gold.
- That’s right. - It’s from actual baht coins.
- Baht coins, yes. - So one gold baht equals one Thai baht.
- Exactly. What about when you started working here? How much was the gold per baht? A little over 1,000 baht. That seems a lot more. Yes, considerably. But still cheap for today. I remember it was 1,800 baht in my days. Yes, 1,800 baht, that’s about right. People would complain
“oh, the gold’s so expensive”. 1,800 baht? I would drain my account
to buy gold that cheap. Because since I was born until today,
I’d never seen the gold price drop. Yes, it keeps rising. - I’d be chuffed if I bought some back in those days.
- Right. But there’s one thing in Yaowarat
that costs more than gold. I’m talking about land. Yaowarat is known for its highly expensive land. Especially the business community
of a narrow alley just a couple of hundred meters long. That goes by the name “Sampeng”. I love to call you
“The Sampeng Kid”, right? That’s right. ‘Cuz you were born right here in Sampeng. - I was.
- And this is the house you grew up in. That’s right. - This very building?
- Yes, this building. I have lived here in Sampeng since I was born. Can you remember how things were
when you were small? Loads of people.
Always bustling. You barely see the road.
People would push and shove. Yeah, I remember how crowded it was. - People would carry things, push a cart.
- Yeah. - It’s so crowded all the time, right?
- Yes-yes. I remember that there was no space
for me to walk in Sampeng. Because my mom would bring me
to shop in Sampeng. As everything is cheap here. We would buy hair clips, hair ties,
toys and whatnot. We came here instead of a mall. I recall what my mom always told me to wear my bag in the front and hold it tight. Hold it like this
because people would push each other. Kinda like in a pub. Dancing and bumping. - And to prevent handbag theft too, right?
- Yes. But nowadays you can
easily drive through it. Does the building stay the same, Ing? - It does.
- Has anything changed at all? The same railings. - And you woke up here everyday?
- Yes. You went to sleep here and woke up here. And I got on the school bus there. Back in the days. - The school bus picked you up there?
- Yes, right there. So I came down, opened the shutter and the bird’s nest cart would park right here. - Which is this.
- Yes, in a bow like this. How much did a bowl cost
when you were a kid? A hundred baht if I remember correctly. - You ate a hundred baht bird’s nest every day?
- Yeah. - Everyday?
- Almost. A hundred baht per day,
that’s 500 baht in 5 days. So a month is around 2,000 baht. You have a very high cost of living,
you know? I have to make more money
so I can feed you. What kind of shops do you usually see here? This area back in the days
was a footwear zone. But it’s not just your parents that
live here in this building. There are more people
living in the area as well, right? Yes. My relatives live here. If they’re still selling the same things,
it’s Yong Charoen Stationery. - Yong Charoen?
- Yes. - Hello.
- Hi there, luv. - Hello, ma’am.
- Hello-hello. - Long time no see.
- Yes. Yong Charoen was actually established in 1967. - 1967? I’m sure that’s before you were born.
- Yes. But this store opened in 1986. Yeah, I was born already. As far as I can remember,
this place always sells the same stuff. - Yes.
- Is everything still the same? Yes, but we have more products. More products? Back in the days, people would say that
the land here was worth like gold. - That’s right.
- Is it true? That’s true. Let’s just say you have a small stall. A 1x1 meter stall comes with a rent fee. Just having a place to stand in Sampeng. It can generate you an income. Someone jokingly said that just charge 10 baht for a 2-3 meters
toilet stall and you’ll be rich. - Just a toilet stall.
- Yeah. - You can get rich.
- True. So how much would a room cost? Around 60,000-70,000 baht,
depending on the area. And if you split these lockers,
how much would one cost? As far as I know, it starts
from 2,000 - 2,500 give or take. Depending on the location.
Is it near the exit? If you have a lot of products
and you can’t sell them all. Or you might have dead stock left in the locker. Some people store their stuff
in there for decades. ‘Cuz they don’t wanna waste it. For instance,
Chinese New Year decorations. You’d have to wait 12 years
to sell them again. Let’s say this is the year of the dragon. If you can’t clear your stock,
you’ll have to wait another 12 years. So they would store it here. Is it true what people say back in the days that you can sell anything in Sampeng. Absolutely true. It’s sort of like, everyone from all
over the country has to come here. So if you sell something that
can be sold throughout the country, try selling it here. And it will spread to every region in no time. Do Sampeng people still sleep in
their shops at closing time? There’s probably around 6-7 families in this alley. Back in those days, - Chinese families would live in a shophouse, right?
- Yes. In the evening, when the shutter is closed, you’d see them set the table for dinner. - And relax on the upper floors.
- Right. Then they’ll open again at 4 or 5 a.m.
in the morning. I have to admit that
the older generations are very industrious. They practically opened their shops 24/7. They didn’t need a dining table. Just one bowl and a pair of chopsticks,
that’s it. I know, right? After the meal, they would go on
and sell their goods. Is it still bustling here in Sampeng? It dwindled after Covid, actually. So less people? But after 2021,
the figures started to improve. When you came back to open this place, I’m sure your neighbors must’ve been surprised. They were. When the construction started
and they saw the vibe, they asked “what are you selling?” “How much will you sell it for?”
When I answered, they were like “what?” “That much?”
Who would come, right? Yes, who would come. Because our customers are not
just pedestrians who stop by for a meal. They have to know that this place
requires reservation in advance. It’s a destination, so to speak. Sampeng… I think it’s the only market that won’t die. And there are not a lot of new players
in the game. The old faces that can still hold
their own will carry on. Some new faces, freshly graduated,
came to test the water here too. And many of them actually survived. Another player that engraved
a memory image for Yaowarat is street food. This is where Thai and Chinese cuisine merged. Very tasty. Here. You can eat anything in Yaowarat. You can eat at so many restaurants here. But you must end your eating spree here. Do younger generations drink sweet orange juice? Lots of people don’t even know what it is. And you’ll need luck to eat at some stalls. I was here 2 days ago
and everything was closed. People would say if there are chairs or tables,
you’re open. But if there are no tables and chairs,
you’re close. I’m glad I got to eat this. This is the food lover’s paradise.
Both Thai and foreigners. But have you ever wonder what the Sampeng locals eat? This place has long been in the business. Over a hundred years. - Are you a Teochew Chinese?
- I am. Just like me, right? We’re both Teochew Chinese. I think there are a lot of Teochew in Thailand. Lots of us Teochews. Because this restaurant serves
Teochew food. Yes. Starting from the dumplings. It’s Teochew dumplings. That one’s the Teochew stir-fried noodles. Yes, these two have
“Teochew” in their names. That’s right. When we talk about Teochew Chinese. They have quite an influence on the food
in Thailand and in Yaowarat, right? I’m sure there’s a Teochew food
in every household. When it’s in every household,
it becomes a norm. Teochew food is not flavored
like Cantonese food. Cantonese cooking is a lot more complex. There's abalone, sauces, shark’s fin. And the sauce they use is more meticulous. While Teochew people rely on simplicity,
freshness, and available ingredients. Like how grandmothers cook
for their grandkids. It’s very much like that. Can you describe the bond you have
with Yaowarat in terms of food? Yaowarat in my younger days… I used to live in Song Wat road
when I was a teenager. I worked in a small company. My salary at the time was 600 baht. But I could eat stewed goat
or shark fin for 80 baht per bowl. So what do you eat now
when you come to Yaowarat? Apart from here, though. The five-spice goose place in Song Wat. It’s called “Urai Braise Goose”. Urai Braised Goose is my favorite spot. And in front of us, there’s
an old-school baozi sold on a cart. Tae Lao Chai Lee,
an old-school baozi stall. Also in Song Wat,
there’s a fish ball noodle soup place. All the “Lao” places. - They’re all good, right?
- Yes, all them lots. Lao Ngow, Lao Sa, Lao Tse, those lots.
And porridge. Is there any place you used to go in Yaowarat
and it’s not around anymore? Of course, a char siu place. They served sticky rice
with char siu and sauce on it. It’s called char siu sticky rice. And it’s so good. I used to hear grown-ups saying this all the time. How their favorite places aren’t
around anymore. I didn’t know how it felt
when I was a kid. But now some of my favorite noodle places
have started disappearing from Yaowarat. And they were gone for good. Some places have their kids
continuing the businesses. But some don’t and they’re the last places
to serve those foods. So we have to deal with it as
it’s how things are in the world. One day our favorite food joint
might close their business. But I’m glad this place is still standing
after over a hundred years. It used to be a glass bottle wasn’t it? Here’s the black vinegar. But the seal is the same, right? - Yes.
- It’s on this side. Here, the old glass bottle
would have this seal on it. - Yes.
- Am I right? You buy this and eat it with dumplings. This is a household sauce, really.? What do you call this type of shop? - Cou Huo.
- Cou Huo, right? Cou Huo, I suppose. And I ,ist say that this is
a particularly large Cou Huo. Mom. This place is getting expropriated, right? Yes, it’s about to get expropriated. It’s all gone in there. Why? Civilization and the metro system, I suppose. When civilization comes, all the old vintage stuff is phased out. - Including this market.
- Yes. - And this shop.
- Yes. When I come to Yaowarat nowadays, I feel like places for old people
like me are slowly fading away. Back in the old days,
I would stroll down Phahurat Road. But now it’s all changed
from the days I used to shop here. Some of the changes are an improvement,
which I totally agree with. Because it's more in order. But it lacks the lively atmosphere. So to me, it’s… - It’s a change.
- It’s different, yes. How long have you moved to this location? We moved here around 2 months ago. So how long have you opened
in the old location? We’ve been open for 80 years
at the old spot. 80 years. When my grandpa established
the old location almost 90 years ago. We’ve changed from
Yong Yuen to New Yuen Yong. Last year, in 2023, our contract with
The Crown Property expired. So we had to move here. This comes with you as well.
This is the old one. Everything is from the old spot. Like the old place. Yes, everything. - Just at a new location.
- Yes. The whole Plaeng Nam Road
was expropriated 13 years ago. The start of MRT construction ushered
in the change in Yaowarat. In the old days Yaowarat wasn’t this bustling. So most people would
do business out of their homes. But now it’s all day and all night. The street is littered
with street food stalls. Before the move, have you ever planned
on moving to a whole different area? - Have you?
- Well, I have. - Have you looked for a new place?
- I have. Then why did you decide to stay here? We stay because our customers
come to Yaowarat and see us as sort of
like another landmark in Yaowarat. It’s because of my love for Yaowarat. I grew up in Yaowarat
so I can’t just leave it behind. It’s like a connection. I don’t think Yaowarat will ever die. Because it’s a legendary street. It has restaurants,
it has gold shops, and everything. All the shrines for Chinese people
to worship their gods. Yaowarat won’t fade away for sure. And I’ll be right here as always. This area brings back a lot of
my childhood memories. What about your childhood memories
in Yaowarat, Ma? My childhood memories
in Yaowarat come in a scent. - A scent?
- Yes. I’d say when I visit Yaowarat,
each alley has its own scent. Yeah, you’re right. Have you noticed
when I brought you here as a kid? In an alley selling chickens or ducks, you could smell a chicken
or duck’s scent during festivals. Fresh poultries, you know? - When they’re slaughtered…
- Yes, when they’re slaughtered and we’d buy it for stew. What’s the alley called again? It’s next to the Cathay alley. It’s Thanon Mangkon in the present day. Thanon Mangkon, right? There were lots of poultries sold there. You have to understand that
we ate fresh poultries back then. People didn’t have refrigerators at the time. So if you want chickens or ducks,
you’d have to buy live ones. Pick one and slaughter it right away. You would see black chickens
back in those days, right? You could even choose between male
and female chickens. And there’s another alley
I used to visit when I was a kid. It’s Soi Sukon. Around 1927, the area used to have pig slaughter houses. Oh, it did? Now, you have to understand that
they couldn’t slaughter pigs all the time. So some live pigs were stored there. And as I said, people didn’t have refrigerators but the goods must be fresh.
So after some calculations. Live pigs were stored here
to be slaughtered at the right time. There’s one thing
I saw all the time was the Vespa scooters. There would be tons of pig skins
in the back of a Vespa. Vespa is ideal for narrow alleys. Its load capacity is excellent. So it matches the local way of life. Sampeng is a narrow street
and you need to make sharp turns, right? There, a Vespa like this one. - Yes.
- Right? - Exactly like this one.
- Exactly, yes. Some of the alleys I used to visit, like… - Song Wat.
- Ah. Song Wat has this scent of spices. Back in the days, I would take a tuk tuk here. As the tuk tuk turn into Song Wat, I’d get smothered in onion
and garlic scents. - Garlic?
- Yes. Song Wat today might be another chic
and hip street. But it used to be a pier in the old days. So it’s a hub for exchanging these goods. For instance: a boat
from Samui would bring coconuts here. Garlic and dried chilies would come
from the north. When they reached Song Wat, the boat that brought coconuts
would take garlic into their hull. While the boat that brought chilies
and garlic would haul back coconuts. So this was the exchange of goods. Song Wat was littered with red onions
and chilies in those days. Back when I studied at Pei Ing school I would collect garlic on the way back home. Like, a bunch of garlic and my mom would be like
“Oh my sweet boy.” There’s another alley
I took to get to the Ong Ang canal. And along the canal,
I would smell a tobacco scent. The tobacco scent was so pungent. The alley has a name too.
Something like “pungent”. "Ya Chun” (pungent tobacco) alley. - Yeah, Ya Chun alley.
- Ya Chun. Saphan Han back in the days.
To its left, there’s an alley. Every shop sold tobacco. So how come the tobacco was so pungent? It has to be pungent. It’s pungent that people smoked it as cigarettes. Ah, so that explains its scent. Some old blokes would hold it in their mouth. And they would work like that. Yes, with a tobacco in their mouth. So it became the scent of Ya Chun alley. But on this side is medicine. - Polar opposite.
- Totally different. This is exactly
how I remember Chao Krom Poe. It’s exactly the same. We started off in 1893. It’s been 131 years now.
Since the reign of King Rama V. I would come with my Chinese relatives. We would get our Chinese herbs here. What kind of illness people come here
to buy medicine for? In the old days,
mostly for women’s health issues. And we’re known
for our paralysis medicines. That medicine cabinet has tons of drugs. That’s nothing.
Just a few hundred kinds. There’s over 800 types of herbs. - How old is this cabinet?
- Well, older than me. I’m 84. - So one drawer holds 4 herbs?
- Yes, 4 slots. And these are Thai herbs, right? 99% are Thai. If we come to a herbal dispensary, the first thing we can sense is the smell. Which one is the main thing you can smell? Star anises, cinnamons,
cardamoms, cloves, cumins. These are all pungent. Pleasantly pungent. Oh, pleasantly pungent? It helps with your appetite. When I come here, uncle…
I usually come here for 2 reasons. The first reason is this. - Chai sim.
- Chai sim. Chinese broccoli stem, right? - Yes, precisely.
- Right? - It’s a type of pickled vegetables.
- Yes-yes. Every morning, my mom would give me
this with porridge. I would eat them
and go to school by myself. Ah, yes. The other reason is this. Black olives. - And it has to be this brand.
- Yes. - No other brands.
- No, just this brand. But why this brand, uncle? Well, this brand tastes the best. It’s the best, right? I don’t know
if you ever watched Harry Potter. There’s an alley called Diagon Alley. Diagon Alley would sell strange things. To me, this was my
Diagon Alley when I was a kid. Really, this is Diagon Alley. This place always has odd things
I’d never seen. And they mostly came from China, right? Well, some are from China. Some from other countries. What’s that thing there? Sea cucumber. And there are different types too. Yes, lots of sea cucumbers. I’d never thought a bag of sea cucumber
would be this expensive. - 12,500 baht?
- Yes. And that’s just 600 grams. 600 grams? Yes, just 600 grams. Whoa… And there’s more stuff hanging above. Is that a fish maw? Yes, that’s a fish maw. A bit over thousand baht.
A thousand. All the way to 10, 20, 30, 40 grand. So what does the price depend on? The older the more expensive. How come it’s more expensive
when it’s older? As it gets older,
it’s wilted and becomes lighter. And it’s also lighter on a scale. Oh, it shrinks as it gets older. That’s right. From this big, it might shrink to this. So people who eat these must be well-off.
That’s why I eat this. - Yeah, you have to be rich.
- Here. Well, rich people eat this too. I saw the word “chestnut”
all over Yaowarat. See?
Just standing here. I can see countless chestnut stalls. There’s around 40 chestnut stalls
in Yaowarat. So how long has Chiang Poo been around? Chiang Poo has been here
for 60-70 years now. We started selling chestnuts
around 30 years ago. That was my dad’s time. My dad imported them from China. We’re the first to import them. I came here for the fruits too. What’s your best seller for offerings? If it’s for the gods, apples, Chinese pears, grapes, oranges. Those sorta stuff.
Those are a must for the god’s offerings. And they’re sold like hot cakes
during the worship period. ‘Cuz people usually buy fruits
for each other. That’s what my family does. Ah, yes. When it’s after the worship,
we would hand them out. Yes, hand them out. That’s from a different time, though. Nowadays, people would buy just 2 fruits. In the old days, the more extravagant offerings reflected
the progress in your life. But now, it’s just for formality. Minimal formality, too. The fridge ain’t that big. Another one of my memory images, Yaowarat means “fun”. It’s the color of fun that comes from celebration. Chinese-descent Thais like us
are surrounded by festivals. And with all those festivals come people. Who join the celebration
and pray for auspicious blessings. What if it’s a Chinese New Year? What’s the most popular phrase
people ask you to write? One is “prosperity in trading”. And “never ending wealth”. - So these are the most popular phases?
- Yes. How do you say this in Chinese? “Shengyi Xinglong” And “Cai Yuan Guang Jin”.
- Cai Yuan
- Guang Jin. These are the famous phrases for people
during Chinese New Year, right? Yes, they love it. Like on Travel Day or Worship Day. They would use these phrases to bring wealth
and prosperity to their business. Chinese people would focus on their wealth in every festival. Yes. So these phrases must involve something
about wealth and money, right? - That’s right.
- What are some other phrases? Like “Cai Tong Si Hai”.
“All the money in the world.” All the money in the world? Yes, all the money for them in the world. What else? And then “Li Tak Sam Kang”. “All the possessions in the world for me.” All the possessions in the world for me? And there’s “Tai Tiem Hong To”.
“Expanded business.” And “brings lots of customers”. “Wong Sie Hok Yip”. “Looming clouds of customers.” One thing I wonder
about is your calligraphy technique. Does it always have to be 4 letters? Yes, 4 or 7 letters. It comes from an ancient rhyme. They interlace each other. Both sides will uphold each other. So that’s 4 and 4 letters. - 4 and 4.
- Right? And there’s 7 and 7. So what’s the 7 letters people like
during Chinese New Year? “Shengyi Xinglong Tong Si Ai” “Prosper business all over the world.” “Si Ai” means the whole world. It rhymes better. It’s more than this blunt phrase. Ah, it’s more poetic. It adds dimension. Why do Chinese people need lions
when it comes to auspicious events? It’s propitious, perhaps. A lion will drive away evil spirits,
so to speak. That’s the idea. It may bring prosperity
to their business and family. Helps their family thrive. So there are lions and dragons.
What’s the difference, though? It’s a belief that a dragon is more magnificent. - It’s magnificent and requires more people.
- It is. How many people do you need
to control a dragon? - Nowadays, at least 9 people.
- 9 people? It’s called “9 Poles Dragon”. What about the biggest dragon? There’s one over 100 meters. What about lions? You just need 2 people.
And 3-4 people for the band. What kind of event calls for the lions? House warming.
New business. Or birthdays. Pretty much anything they see fit for lions. And the customers loved it. They’re the regulars. They love to watch our lion’s dance. After any event, I remember that - there’s a pile of peaches.
- Yes-yes. Like for my grandma’s birthday. She would give one back to me.
And gave me blessings. - Perhaps Chinese people like to bless one another.
- That’s right. She would bless me “here, take one”. “Eat it so you’ll be lucky.” Lucky, “Peng Ang” Yes, Peng Ang. Chinese people believe that
these peaches give you longevity like Heng Jia. He stole one heaven’s peach and ate it. That gave him 10,000 years to live. So this comes from Heng Jia? - He stole a peach.
- Yes. It has a story. And the peaches are white and red. Red for Chinese people represents birth. On what occasion would Chinese people
order these peaches? Chinese New Year. Lantern Festival. Guan Yin’s birthdays. Birthdays for every family.
Something like that. How much did a peach bun
cost in your days? And now? Now? It’s 6 baht or 10 baht. Ain’t that high. 6 to 10 baht is affordable. It’s the shrine’s price. So people eat it in a shrine? It’s mostly for blessing. A peach bun represents longevity. Take one orange from the gods. And orange is wholly positive.
It’s round and reddish. It means good fortune and all. If I want my business to flourish,
which offering should I use? Oranges. And Huet Kueh. Huet Kueh would fluff up and expand.
Your business will flourish. And which shrine should
I worship to get rich? Right here at Pun Thao Kong Shrine. Pun Thao Kong. I think the allure of Yaowarat comes
from its long and rich history. Businesses established by Chinese people. Food recipes hailed from overseas. And all the cultures and beliefs that give this dragon road its unique identity. But all those things would be impossible
without these people who emigrated and settled down
in Yaowarat. How much has the area changed? Oh, it's worlds different. Back then there were so many people. Everyone knew each other. Mosquito net shop, barber, coffee shop. They lived next to each other. Everyone would greet each other like families. If I open my shop here,
their employees would buy my food. And the next day I would eat at their place in exchange. We would ask each other about our day. In the old days when I leave my house, I could greet people from one end
of Yaowarat road to the other. I could greet any house. - You know them all.
- Yes. You know their trade
and where their children study. Like, hello aunty, hello uncle,
hello grandma. But now? I’d skip some of them. ‘Cuz I don’t know the new faces. Like, you greet one house
and skip 2-3 houses. That’s right. I have Chinese relatives when I was little.
They would always tell me that they love it when the same businesses sell
next to each other. Is that true? Wouldn’t that cause a competition? There’s no envy in that. You just mind your business. If you have a verbal skill and good character, you’ll sell more goods. ‘Cuz a lone shop seems a bit lonely, doesn't it? But tens and hundreds of
shops make up Yaowarat, right? Yes, that’s right. You can’t survive alone. Has it changed a lot around here? It has indeed. There were around 10 stationery shops. Now, there’s only 4-5 shops remaining. - It dwindled.
- Yes. I actually wish for more
Thai people to move back to Sampeng. Because I don’t want to lose this area
to the new generation of Chinese. New generation of Chinese? I’m talking about new money from China. They’re loaded. What should I do to survive like you? I’m lucky that my guys have the skills
and they helped me a lot. You have to be diligent and devote your time. If you can do those things,
you’ll survive anywhere. I don’t know if you remember this or not. But the first time we shot here
in this building, this is the brightest building in the area. But We come back today for this shoot. Can you see that the surrounding
areas shine brighter and brighter? It’s like more and more lanterns getting lit up. I’d say it’s the appreciation of originality
from the new generations. They want to preserve this timeless aesthetic. A lot of the new generations
are actually descendents of the locals. They skip a generation. Like, the grandparents are the locals. The parents went to do something else. And the grandkids came back. - They started to immerse…
- They’re into it, yes. There are more new bloods coming
to this place. You told me that you
and your husband did what? “Made In Song Wat”. What’s Made In Song Wat? It’s a collective of local entrepreneurs. There were 10 entrepreneurs. There’s Potong.
E-Ga. Gu Long Bao. Play Arthouse. We gathered with one goal. What can we do to bring life back to this area? And how to attract people, attract investors? We named it Song Wat
because everyone knows Yaowarat. So we want to attract people
from Yaowarat to Sampeng and Song Wat. Hence the name Song Wat. We ended up on the list of Top Coolest Neighborhood in the world. We ranked at 39th place. Have you ever thought it would come this far? I haven’t, it surprised me. But I feel that
I made the right decision to come back here. You know? You remind me of our grandparents in the old days. Chinese people have this one unique trait that somehow passed down to us. They love it when merchants
do their business together. You’re right. I was talking to my husband about this. Chinese and Thai people love it
when we flocked together for business. Because it creates a magnet
that pulls people here. And I’m sure we’re not competitors. It’s helping one another
for the betterment of this area. I’d say in 10 years this area
will become a walking street. I wish this will be a walking street where
you walk and see Potong, a cafe, a bar. A walking street where everyone
who comes to Thailand must visit. - They must come to Sampeng and Song Wat.
- Yes. It will be a walking street. In 10 years. 10 years, right? We’ll see about that. We will. And come back for another shoot. Sure. Do you think it’ll be
as bright as the main road? It sure will. When it does,
remember that it starts from you. Oh, amen to that.
